I’ve soldered the wire and refitted but unfortunately the issue still exists. Although this wire needed to be repaired I’m now looking to replace the switches (4F0959851H5PR - window switch for S3 8P Sportback). I don’t think it’s the door module as the passengers side is also playing up, or could it be?
Might be worth replacing the window regulators I’ve heard they’re a common fault on the 8P’s, had issues on my old A3 and S3, only every now and again but definitely a common fault
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At this stage I'm guessing it's not the regulator as the drivers side switch wasn't able to consistently work either front window. After resoldering, it all seems to be working well but if it stops again I'll replace the switches, then look at the regulator or door module. Fingers crossed I've caught it though.
Glad to see your looking after hereA couple of weeks ago I completed the annual service. I managed to source Millers 5w/40 Nanodrive here in New Zealand but I've now realised it's only 5/40NT not NT+. It's still a triple ester based product but for the 1,800 miles I drive per year I can't see it causing any issues. Normally I get the oil sent out from Opie but I was able to source locally but it was expensive - $170NZ for 5l (about £85), nearly twice the price I'd pay back in the UK. I also fitted a genuine oil filter and Hengst pollen filter - the pollen filter I removed was stamped 2014 and absolutely filthy!
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Resetting the Service Indicator via VCDS was a ball-ache via the SRI reset process. After some Googling it appears that the reset doesn't work for >MY10'ish 8P's, you need to reset 3 different settings individually. I tried pulling the odometer stalk on the right hand side of the dash, this will display service information but won't do the reset. It's all sorted now thankfully.
I'll check the DV this weekend but that too has c1,800 miles on it so should be fine.
I didn't replace the cam-follower as I'm going to do the tsi roller conversion. This conversion replaces but the follower with a similar looking bucket but it has a roller/wheel in it - instead of the cam-lobe pushing the cam-follower (activating the HPFP), the cam-lobe will now 'roll' around the follower, activating the HPFP. The benefit of this upgrade is not only does it remove the dickie cam-follower design Audi implemented, the roller never needs to be changed. I believe it there's a bit of a rattle but I can live with this.
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From my previous posts, it's well documented that I've been having issues with the Spec clutch and SMF I had fitted. It's never been right and no matter how much adjustment, changing the selectors, bushes etc I decided to get the RTS and SMF. Although I ordered several months ago, NZ Customs misplaced part of the kit however I am now in receipt of everything I need, including an OEM Sachs CSC. This will be fitted over the Christmas break.
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As the car will be up on the hoist when I'm doing the clutch, I'll also be replacing the front ST-X coilover spring perch (the piece the spring sits on, that you wind up/down). Those of you who have ST coilovers, the part number is ST65245082 - it's a composite ring that actually perishes over time. It's not a safety hazard as within it, is the alloy platform that the coil sits on. But when it starts to perish you can't adjust the height as the coilover wrench can't catch.
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And finally... my BCS WRC mid-section has just arrived! No photos of this yet but I'll be fitting it this weekend - I'm quite looking forward to getting this on - I had the valve wired open for some time but it wasn't what I was after. This should hopefully give a little bit of noise while not being ASBO when driving in the neighbourhood...
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I'll provide some updates as I fit all these items.
You used a conversion kit? Which one? Any pictures of the kit? I can't figure out where the extra sleeve goes?
A small interior cosmetic update - I retro fitted the front roof light with map lights and the red LED's that shine down over the gear stick. It's a nice change (nearly up there with the Q3CC mod) and only took 15 min to fit. This has also made use of the final 2 LEDs from the set I bought from @t8ups.
The interior map/reading light part number is: 8E0947135D6PS - this is shared with the A4/S4. I'll look to do the rear with the individual map lights (8E0947111A) at a later stage.
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have you got any videos of this as im considering a similat setup but cant decide if ishoul go custome or go with bcs as i want normal drivability and asbo via external switch (fob)Fitted the BCS WRC pipe today - a straight forward fit however it needs a little adjustment as the flange before the backbox is knocking on the rear arm.
Sound wise, at idle and crushing there is no difference in sound however under boost it’s a wider, deeper bark that sounds very nice!
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Was thinking of getting the 3.5"decat from bcs and the rest done my duestech and have a remote control valve put in so when ive got family in the car i can keep it quite regardless of boost and when i want to be lewis hamilton, well you get the point but a vid would help if you have one or could make one when ever your freeHi @e9_mustii - no videos sorry. I don’t think videos do the system justice and besides, there is plenty on YouTube and even on BCS’s own channel.
As for BCS v custom - depends on what you’re after - BCS have put a lot of R&D into their system and with the WRX it’s very loud on boost but quiet off. A custom system; any exhaust shop could build you a ‘custom’ system but it would have the research, design and knowledge behind it. The cost will be similar to the BCS. Activating the valve via a key fob - na, not for me either!
Just go for a BCS WRX system.
Another great write up mate , liked the pics tooI'm 1100 miles into the RTS clutch and really happy with it. Although it was slipping at 700'ish miles, now it's bedded in it is holding up really well - no slip and still a pleasant gear change. I know the RTS kit isn't to everyones liking (a lot of negative chat on Facebook groups), but compared to the Spec Stg2, this is perfect.
Last weekend I set about fitting the Wasa balance shaft delete freewheel, a free wheeling sprocket that deactivates the balance shaft between the bottom end and the sump. On higher mileage, tuned engines there have been instances of the balance shaft seizing typically requiring a new engine. For me, fitting the Wasa freewheel was a preventative maintenance measure - those of you who've read my thread will recall I had the balance shaft assembly replaced under Audi warranty in 2017 (4k miles ago!) so I'd probably be ok, nevertheless it's done now and it was also an excuse to do something to the car.
In preparation for fitting the Wasa freewheel and as the sump needs to come off, I took the opportunity of replacing the oil pickup and the oil pump tensioner. The following parts were ordered:
- 06B115130C - Oil Pump Tensioner
- 06F115251A - Oil Pickup Pipe
- N0282222 - Oil Pickup O'ring
- N90365901 - Oil Pump Sprocket Bolt
- N06D115562 - Oil Filter
- N90813202 - Sump Plug
- 06D115562 - Oil Return Gasket (the oil return from the turbo to the sump)
For oil, I wanted to stick with an ester based 5w/40. I can't get Millers here in New Zealand but Red Line is readily available so I thought I'd give it a try.
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We gave the sump a good clean while it was off. The silicone sealant was crumbling, sitting in the bottom of the sump and with small pieces in the oil pickup. I credit this to the quality of Audi Master Technicians - this shouldn't happen after less than 4k miles.
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The balance shafts (within the alloy case) have a counterweight at the end, weighing approx 19 pounds. It's a fair amount of mass needing to be turned and these shafts can spin at up to 16,000rpm. Through deactivating the balance shafts, I have notices the car revs freer but can't say I've notices any more power. There is a small amount of vibration but nothing of concern.
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To loosen the oil pump chain, we removed the oil pump sprocket but also the tensioner. I thought it would be worth replacing the tensioner while the cover was off again, as a precautionary measure.
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The Wasa freewheel next to the balance shaft sprocket. There is a couple of alternative manufacturers of the freewheel however Wasa are the inventors and the original.
For fitting, the freewheel was torqued to 50NM and the oil pump sprocket torqued to 20nm+90deg.
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A new oil pickup (and o'ring) was fitted before we refitted the sump using Wurth gasket sealant.
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Once everything the back together we filled with just over 5l of Red Line High-Performance 5w/4o ester based oil.
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With summer approaching I'll get the car booked into the bodyshop for a couple of small touch-ups and then I may look at some cosmetic updates such as steering wheel recover.
I thought I’d add an update to my post from 2017 - the buzzing at 1800’ish RPM that Audi couldn’t fix (but three parts at the car) - it’s been getting worse recently and more so after a couple of laps at a local circuit. put it on the hoist and there is a heat shield above the drive shaft shielding from the turbo - this was missing a nut. We fastened this and the buzzing and annoying rattle is all gone. It’s amazing how solving small problems make the car fun to drive!I thought I'd provide an update - quite a bit has happened with the car recently. At the end of May I had the timing chain & tensioner replaced as preventative maintenance. In July the car developed a buzzing noise and as mentioned in an earlier post I took the car to Audi (under Warranty) to be checked out. They diagnosed a collapsed tensioner so after replacing this and a new cam chain the buzzing still persisted. After further investigation they determined that the balance shaft had excessive play so needed to be replaced. It was a mission getting Warranty to approve this as they were a little upset at paying for the chain & tensioner to find that didn't solve to problem; they reluctantly accepted the claim and the repairs were made.
I collected the car last Thursday - 5 weeks and 2 days after dropping the car into Audi. To be fair to Audi they did release it to me for a weekend so I'll give them 3 days! The car feels like it's running well - definitely quieter than it was, the buzzing/rattle has gone, so has a tick, like a very loud tappet, and 5l of Millers Nanotech is gone too..
While I had the car for the 3 days I took to opportunity to have my Vagbremtech J-Jooks fitted. I can immediately feel the difference over the old, worn discs but I do need to have the fluid replace and the Hel Braided lines fitted. I'm happy with the discs however.
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I then booked my visit to see Dave @BCS Nige about getting my TBE BCS fitted. He and Nige are remarkable, so accommodating and when I had to change the dates (as I didn't get car back when I was expecting) they were able to reschedule accordingly. We managed to get the BCS scheduled for the Thursday as Dave had a wedding to attend on the Friday - or so we thought...
As I was going to be making the trip up from London I wanted to align the BCS fitting with a visit to @Rick @ Unicorn Motor Dev. for my Stage2 remap. As with BCS, when I didn't get the car back when expected Rick (& Chloe) were able to juggle the booking to fit with the BCS.
On Wednesday morning, the day before the trip to St Helens I received a call from Dave saying he'd made an error with his dates - the wedding was indeed Thursday, not Friday... He didn't want to let me down and knew of the Unicorn booking so after a couple of phone calls, a hotel booking and an after work drive to St Helens I arrived at BCS at 8.15pm and the fitting commenced. Credit to Dave - he could have just as easily rescheduled but he didn't and the result - it's a work of art.
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I went for a titanium wrapped downpipe and the standard looking tips. The quality of the craftsmanship is breathtaking - the pride and passion they have for their product is evident from the quality of the steel, to the wields, to the length of the flex-joint. But that sound - oh mate.
So, I'm currently sitting in the Travelodge waiting to travel across to @Rick @ Unicorn Motor Dev. I'll hopefully get a switchable map with a Standard, Stg2 and a couple of other options but I'm sure we'll discuss more when I get there and I can update you all later!
Sad to hear you av now sold ur S3 but i can fully understand why . Now i am selling my S3 . Its been a blast owning it and have to say i loved following ur posts in ur build and have to say most off my retrofit upgrades where down to you as you had done all the ground work to find out all the part numbers i needed to do those jobs.After 5 years of ownership, mods, pampering yet only 7,000 miles of driving I’ve sold the S3. It’s time to move on to something more convenient for carrying the family and a car I don’t mind driving or putting miles on (the S3 was a garage queen that was just looked after).
I’m staying in the Audi family moving to an SQ5 - VCDS updates will be all this one gets.
It’s been a pleasure. Bye for now.