Hi, need help please! A3 3.2 v6

Bash247

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Hi, I'm new to this, so apologies if I'm doing it wrong. I've got a 2004 Audi a3 3.2. The car feels like it lacks power at low revs and it doesn't have the v6 sound at low/normal revs. You can only really hear it at high revs now. Help?!
 
First port of call for me would be to get it scanned for any codes.
 
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These are my codes. Can you explain?

P0341
P0016
P0018
P0340
 
The following is taken from Ross-Tech:

16725/P0341/000833 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40): Implausible Signal

Possible Symptoms

  • Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) active
Possible Causes
  • Wiring from/to Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) faulty
  • Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) faulty
  • Timing misaligned
Possible Solutions
  • Check Wiring from/to Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
  • Check Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
  • Check Timing
Special Notes
  • When found in 2008 and newer VW 2.0T engine with a timing chain (example; CCTA and CBFA), please see: TT 01-15-08 for information about the intake camshaft, adjuster bridge and spool valve.

16400/P0016/000022 - Bank 1: Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incorrect Correlation


Possible Symptoms

  • Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON
Possible Causes
  • Timing Issue
  • Camshaft Adjuster
Possible Solutions
  • Check Setting of Timing Belt
  • Check Timing of Intake/Exhaust Cams
  • Check Cam Adjusters as per Repair Manual
Special Notes
  • North American Market (NAR) specific notes:
    • When found in 2009 Audi A4, A5 or Q5 with 3.2FSI AVE Engines, please see TSB 15-09-04.
    • When found in 2008 and newer VW 2.0T engine with a timing chain (example; CCTA and CBFA), please see:
General notes



    • On engines with chain driven intake camshaft(s), but belt driven exhaust camshaft(s), verify the number of chain roller links between the intake and exhaust camshafts is correct. Click on thumbnail to enlarge:

16724/P0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor (G40): Malfunction


Possible Symptoms

  • Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) active
Possible Causes
  • Wiring from/to Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) faulty
  • Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) faulty
  • Timing misaligned
Possible Solutions
  • Check Wiring from/to Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
  • Check Camshaft Position Sensor (G40)
  • Check Timing

Ross-Tech doesn't state P0018, so this was taken from OBD Codes:

P0018 - Crankshaft Position - Camshaft Position Correlation (Bank 2 Sensor A)

What does that mean?

This diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is a generic powertrain code, which means that it applies to OBD-II equipped vehicles, including but not limited to Ford, Dodge, Toyota, VW, Honda, Chevrolet, Hyundai, Audi, Acura, etc. The crankshaft position sensor (CKP) and Camshaft position sensor (CMP) work in harmony to control the spark/fuel delivery and timing. They both consist of a reluctor, or tone, ring which passes over a magnetic sensor, which generates a voltage, indicating position. The crankshaft sensor is part of the primary ignition system and functions as the "trigger". It detects the position of the crankshaft relays that information on to the PCM or the ignition module (depending on the vehicle) to control spark timing. The Camshaft position sensor detects the position of the camshafts and relays the information to the PCM. The PCM uses the CMP signal to identify the beginning of the injector sequence. What ties these two shafts and their sensors together is the timing belt or chain. The cam and crank should be precisely timed together. If the PCM detects that the crank and cam signals are out of time by a specific number of degrees, this DTC will set. Bank 2 is the side of the engine that doesn't contains cylinder #1, the "A" sensor is most likely the intake camshaft side. Note it is not uncommon on certain models to see this DTC in conjuction with P0008, P0009, P0016, P0017, and P0019. If you have a GM vehicle and have those multiple DTCs, check for service bulletins that may apply to your engine.

Possible Symptoms

  • Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) illumination
  • The engine may run but with reduced performance
  • The engine may crank but not start
  • The engine may exhibit a rattle near the harmonic balancer indicating the tone ring is damaged
  • The engine may start and run, but poorly
Possible Causes
  • Timing chain stretched, or timing belt skipped a tooth due to wear
  • Misalignment of timing belt/chain
  • Tone ring on crankshaft slipped/broken
  • Tone ring on camshaft slipped/broken
  • Bad crank sensor
  • Bad cam sensor
  • Damaged wiring to crank/cam sensor
  • Timing belt/chain tensioner damaged
  • An improperly torqued crankshaft balancer
  • A mis-built or mis-timed engine
  • A loose or missing crankshaft balancer bolt
  • The CMP actuator solenoid stuck open
  • The CMP actuator stuck in a position other than 0 degrees
Possible Solutions

If your vehicle is new enough that is still has powertrain warranty, please let the dealer perform the repairs. First, visually inspect the cam and crank sensors and their harnesses for damage. If you notice broken/frayed wires, repair and recheck. If you have access to a scope, check the cam and crank patterns. If a pattern is missing, suspect a bad sensor or a slipping tone ring. Remove the cam gear and the crankshaft harmonic balancer and inspect the tone rings for proper alignment and make sure they're not loose or damaged or that they haven't sheared the key that aligns them. If they are properly installed, replace the sensor. If the signal appears normal, then check the timing chain/belt for proper alignment. If it's misaligned, check for a damaged tensioner that may have allowed the chain/belt to slip a tooth or several teeth. Also check that the belt/chain isn't stretched. Repair and recheck. Please consult a factory service repair manual if you need vehicle specific information.
 
Mechanically I know nothing at all probably sounds stupid, but how do i do that? And what's the likely cost?
 
Mechanically I know nothing at all probably sounds stupid, but how do i do that? And what's the likely cost?

In this case best to bring it into a mechanic get quotes.
You can also try searching the other posts here on this forum for crankshaft position sensor and timing chain stretch.
If its the timing chain then brace yourself for the cost on these 3.2's
 
Camshaft position censor can be a sign the timing chain has stretched. Be very careful as if the timing chain has gone then it effectively writes the car off as it becomes way more expensive to fix than the car is probably worth.
 
So the 3.2 suffers from cam chain tensioner failure (unfortunately Audi/VW really screwed up here), when the tensioner fails the cam chain goes loose causing the timing to slip. You are looking at approx. 2000 to fix as its an engine out job to replace both the tensioners and cam chain chains.

The codes above and lack of power are classic timing having slipped.
 
The original problem was not tensioners failing, it was chains stretching beyond the take up of the tensioner , if Audi do the fix then it would be about £4k-£5k never mind £2k.....ask me how i know :)
At this stage it could just be a number of minor things including the variable timing unit on the cam. From your description of the symptoms it doesnt sound like the chain which caused tickover problems and huge flat spots coming back on the throttle having coasted down a hill and so on.p
 
That's why you don't get Audi to do it , I know I have the same issue but to a lesser extent and have investigated repair costs to death.
 
When the time comes...........Im not sure , mine is also a 2004 but with 113k miles on it , There's no way the car is worth purchase price plus repair, I would rather put 2k into a new car (not a VAG moneypit ;-)) , that said I love the power , the sound and the uniqueness of it.
The one advantage I have is that I live very near to AMD Tuning who have quoted £2k and can offer finance for the repair costs, so £2k over 4 years is not a hardship if it comes to it.
 
I was lucky Audi paid a fair chunk of my bill. TBH you would be crazy to spend 2k on a 13 year old car.
 
I had heard (not sure from where though) that up to 100k miles you might still stand a chance but it would be a fight , I think in the U.S there was a class lawsuit against VAG/Audi for this self same thing.
 
Mine had done only 40k back in the day. I am suprised if its the chain that its lasted 14 years tbh, most went at about 40k in the first 3-4 years..
In the US it was a recall, audi Germany also fixed most of them, it was only Audi UK that claimed there wasnt a problem then fixed a few under protest.
Even at only 40k miles they only paid half for mine and the bill was over £5k because they spent £1800 on trying to diagnose the problem Eventually a few of us on here who all had the same problem found the answer on a German forum where it turned out that the manufacturer of the cam chain had stamped his logo so deep into the side plates it had weakened the chains. audi UK never did accept responsibility while in the US they had a recall and free fix....typical Audi UK i'm afraid.
 
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I'm from Manchester, Cars got 131k miles
 
@Bash247 Hi did you take this problem any further? I also have a 3.2 A3 with a 'now and again' hesitation around the 3500-4000 rpm mark. It's like two stages of acceleration: stage 1 blast off, then brief hesitation, then blast off again.
Sometimes the car would hesitate and start bucking, with the rev counter bouncing all over the place. Hasn't done this for a good while now (4 months or so) but it was a bit worrying when it did.
A scan by my local garage revealed engine speed sensor codes.

So did you sort it out? And was it a wallet shredder?