Wheel bolts

martin1984

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So ive managed to start rounding off my locking bolts to a point im not going to be able to get them off so was thinking it would be easy to just replace with standard bolts rather than buy a locking set as i dont see the need as wheels arnt worth any.
So what size are the bolts people.

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don't forget martin to use the correct bolts for your rims chap, shoulder profile differ, oem rims use (radius) and reps use (tapered) bolts.
If you need oem I have a complete set that were used with my ronals if they are any use chap.
 
don't forget martin to use the correct bolts for your rims chap, shoulder profile differ, oem rims use (radius) and reps use (tapered) bolts.
If you need oem I have a complete set that were used with my ronals if they are any use chap.
Well Rob ive got reps and am using the factory bolts ??

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Got four black bolts if that's any good to you (accidentally ordered too many), same height, width and everything as OEM only difference (and it might not even be a difference, I honestly can't remember) is they're radius rather than tapered (... OEM might be the same... off the top of my head I can't quite remember haha all I remember is they're designed to fit my wheels and to be fair tapered or radius won't make much odd's it's only if people are OCD).

IMG_20170925_164908.jpg


Based in Birmingham so just down the road if your Worcester, can have them for free or a beer or whatever haha.
 
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Got four black bolts if that's any good to you (accidentally ordered too many), same height, width and everything as OEM only difference (and it might not even be a difference, I honestly can't remember) is they're radius rather than tapered (... OEM might be the same... off the top of my head I can't quite remember haha all I remember is they're designed to fit my wheels and to be fair tapered or radius won't make much odd's it's only if people are OCD).

IMG_20170925_164908.jpg


Based in Birmingham so just down the road if your Worcester, can have them for free or a beer or whatever haha.
What ill do is pull 1 of mine out if there the same a beer it is cheers

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nope you need to use the correct ones , it's not an OCD thing...
Ones have a radiused head, the others are tapered!


If you look at the bolt, the area where the head reduces in size down to the threaded section will either by rounded (a bit like half a sphere). These are `radiused` bolts. If the area is straight (like an upside down cone), it is a `tapered` bolt.

nut_bolt_measure.gif


Looking at the bolt hole in the wheel, you`ll see the area where the bolt `seats`. This will either be `radiused` or `tapered` to match the requisite bolt.

Only ever use the correct bolt, because the wrong one, when torqued can cause pressure points, because the bolt is not `seating` properly, and could cause stress fractures around the hole and/or eventually work loose.

Hope that makes sense!
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Well I've had tapered on radius holes and vice versa god knows how many times so it definitely is an OCD thing :playful: "stress holes" what a load of baloney, makes no odd's so long as they're done up well, would personally probably just run 4 bolts but I'm a pikey haha.

If they look off let me know and I'll dig into my emails and find the bolt specs I got so you can order the same but seated differently :happy:
 
need to disagree with you chap on this one , if you looked at a side profile of both profile holes you will see what the difference is, if one uses the correct profile bolt for the hole the contact surface of that bolt will be complete and when the bolt is tightened up it will be making full contact with the both surfaces, if you stick a radius bolt in a tapered hole or vice versa the contact area of the bolt is reduced by quite a significant amount, it may well tighten up but it will be only bitting on a small amount of mounting hole material and you are more likely to have issues ...I would not risk driving hundreds of miles on our rubbish road with only a percentage of the wheel bolt holding on the wheel ....there maybe 5 bolts but if one was to come loose then the other 4 could do aswell.

wheels get a real pounding all day long....why risk it, the two bolts types are different for a reason , they fit different rims.
 
or ....
If we refer to a wheel fastener’s seat style, the term “acorn” would translate into a reference of a ball-type or radius-type seat.

After all, take a look at an acorn. When viewed from the side, the belly of the acorn is somewhat radiused, which makes the term sensible when referring to a ball-type or radiused seat style. However, some folks use the term “acorn” to refer to the head portion of a nut that features a ball-type rounded dome-head design. Yet others use the term to refer to a short-bodied nut that features a conical (straight taper) seat.

So, when you hear the word “acorn” in reference to wheels, don’t assume anything. In order to make sure that both you and the salesclerk are on the same page, clarify the term by pointing to a photo, diagram or better yet, showing him/her an actual sample to make sure that you’re both talking about the same item.

The only proper use of the term “acorn” is when referring to a nut with a rounded top dome. Just remember that the dome shape has nothing to do with the seat style.

The golden rule, when discussing seat styles, is extremely simple: Never mix them! If a wheel is designed for conical 60-degree seats, the only fastener seat style that can be used is a 60-degree conical type. The same rule applies for radius and flat seat styles.

Only use the correct seat style of fastener for the seat style of the given wheel. Using the incorrect seat style can, and likely will, result in fastener loosening, wheel damage and potential tragedy due to loss of vehicle control when the wheel wobbles or separates from the vehicle. It’s simply impossible to overemphasize this point. The wheel fasteners are the only connection between the vehicle and the wheels. Without proper fastening, you’re flirting with disaster.
 
Ran allot of wheels on allot of cars, ran allot of bolts on allot of cars, current wheels on the A4 are 5 x 114 (not 5 x 112) with no adapters, works fine, go figure. Not advising to use something slightly off but it makes no odd's, especially if it's only 1 bolt out of 5.

Your arguing reality with Internet logic.
 
having seen the result of using the wrong bolts first hand I would only ever use the correct ones, two people were killed on the M3 a few years back due to a wheel becoming loose then detached from the back of a bmw , at the inquest it was noted that the cause was incorrect wheel bolt fittings that led to failure and subsequent loss of control of the car and the death of two other drivers in the inside lane......what a waste of life for the sake of using the correct bolts....enough said frankly.
 
I tell you one thing chap, if one of those dead drivers had been one of my family member that was killed due to the wise **** driver that skimped on the correct wheel bolts for the sake of a couple of quid nowing full well what could happen , I would have been around his house and kicked the living *rap out of him frankly..other people have lives aswell.
 
Most that can happen is a bolt will wobble and you do it up, had this when I was traveling 50+ miles to work and after a week of hearing a funny noise and feeling a strange vibration I found one or two bolts loose, did them up, kept checking them every few days and never had a problem again. Takes a real mug to fit different bolts/wheels and not check over them in good time. Not only that but it may have also been because I didn't tighten them properly in the first place as it's just after I had an issue of tightening wheels too much and not being able to get them off after a puncture haha but yeah.

Anyway back on topic and for anyone else looking for bolt sizes they're M14 x 1.5 28mm (give or take 1-2mm length, hopefully Rob doesn't read the length could be off by 1mm else he'll have a heart attack :playful:... have stories of me running much longer bolts too which nearly caused issues but that's another topic!).

Radius is generally for OEM wheels, tapered for the majority of replicas and aftermarket wheels (according to what I've just searched anyway, both will work but it's best to have ones that suit the wheels).

Edit: Could be the other way around for the last bit (radius/tapered)... honestly don't know anymore Rob has scrambled my brain with Internet logic, best thing to do is as the OP @martin1984 said; taking a bolt off and checking :happy: can also check for sizes with it off but to say measuring bolt sizes is a bit fiddly would be a massive understatement (just adding this for anyone else needing bolts).
 
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But that's you and your lookout if it all goes tits up, other people doing the same may not bother checking etc and then when it goes wrong it goes wrong big time.....what you do on your car is all down to you chap but it doesn't make it correct or safe just because you have been lucky so far.

You can think what you like about my replies quite frankly, I wouldn't use the wrong bolts and don't recommend anyone else using them, if they want to be stupid enough to do so then that's there lookout and they should be prepared to accept the consequences of any problems that may arise .
 
did you just change rims then carl and not get new bolts to use with them , seems like a lot do this, i'd be getting new bolts ...but then I seem to be in the minority with this outrageous suggestion.
 
I have reps but with tapered bolts, kept the radius oem ones for oem rims .
 
If I stick a radius bolt in my reps it rolls around like a weeble on smack ....just not right carl, tapered bolt slides in snug as a bug with no sloppy rolling around, tapered contact is 100% , radius is a fraction of that and it shows ...
 
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Rob's just trying to prove a point, best of it is we're all in agreement that people should fit the correct bolts for the wheels yet he's still going on about how he's suddenly got a JDM drift machine when he ran the wrong one's so despite him saying he'd kill someone who didn't run the correct bolts he's done it himself (well allegedly, still don't believe the whole "seeing first hand how a BMW killed two people due to incorrect bolts" thing, maybe he watched it on the news or had a dream about it).
 
well there you go then , your spot on carl, a round peg in around hole , none of this oval peg in a round hole milarchy , they must be good reps then as most have tapered holes , the rials I had were also radius ( but they were german anyway and oem spec) my current reps are tapered.
 
Rob's just trying to prove a point, best of it is we're all in agreement that people should fit the correct bolts for the wheels yet he's still going on about how he's suddenly got a JDM drift machine when he ran the wrong one's so despite him saying he'd kill someone who didn't run the correct bolts he's done it himself (well allegedly, still don't believe the whole "seeing first hand how a BMW killed two people due to incorrect bolts" thing, maybe he watched it on the news or had a dream about it).

don't need to prove a point , point of fact that the correct bolts need to be used, you seem to suggest it doesn't make any difference....it does and as you were not on the M3 at the time of the awfull incedent I suggest you keep your remarks to yourself on this subject, nothing personal chap but don't step over the line on this subject now.
Its very easy to loose ones temper on line so i'll not reply further to this thread .
 
Come on DJ get your poo together , even Herman Munster has the correct type bolts .

045d4bca1f7ef9eedb7fef7c90fc63f6--herman-munster-the-munsters.jpg
 
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