2.0 TDI 140 Low oil pressure

[Joeyenz]

Hi all,

As above I have a 2005 2.0 tdi 140, the missus was driving today and had to top up the oil a bit, after driving for a minute the oil pressure light came on. Car is back here now and idles a little lumpy but not too bad. The car is a couple of k past due for a service, any chance the oil is just too thick and having problems? Know the oil pump is a common problem but can't hear a chain rattle or anything but im not too certain what im looking for.

Any help appreciated!

 

[Gazwould]

STOP DRIVING !

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Probably double trouble BLB .

 

[jay1601]

If the oil pressure is low, your turbo will be dead within minutes.

The 2.0TDI suffers from oil pump failure.

 

[Mario]

First thing is first....STOP DRIVING IT. Next get an oil pressure gauge and check the pressure. It should be no less than 0.8 bar on idle and 2.0 bar at 2,000 RPM.

If you start the engine and see no oil pressure then TURN IT OFF IMMEDIATELY.

99% sure you have suffered the oil pump / balance shaft failure. Rebuild kits available from http://www.kmbpartsdirect.co.uk/oil_pumps.html

What engine code do you have? As in is it BLB, BRE, BRD, BMN etc?

Chances are you will need a rebuild kit and maybe a new turbo also. Hopefully nothing more, but you'll never know until the engine is opened up. What mileage is the car?

Also, I am guessing you will probably be best to go for Kit 12 from KMB to convert to a geared setup with 100mm hex key. Costs £625 + £125 deposit which is refunded when you return your old part back to them.

That will cure the issue more or less permanently, but need to check your engine code first to see if the current engine is chain or gear driven. Most likely chain if it's a 140 TDI from 2005 though.

 

[Joeyenz]

Ok thanks all, first off it was recovered as I told her not to drive it back with pressure light. I know oil pump fail is the classic, in fact @Gazwould mentioned in a thread the other week about 'prevention better than cure' to the point where I almost replaced with the uprated one this service.

Once the engine was started by RAC the oil pressure light did not appear for about 1 min after driving it. Think it's in limp but would not want to rev it up and find out the hard way. Ill look at getting a oil pressure kit today for it.

Not sure of the code but I know its one of the 'bad 2.0s' with the chain.

No lights are on on ignition except EML from the EGR delete, Ill check oil pressure and fault codes today and report back, thanks for the help everyone.

 

[Mario]

Once the engine was started by RAC the oil pressure light did not appear for about 1 min after driving it.

The setup on these is stupid to be honest. You can have zero oil pressure on idle and the light will not come on. The oil pressure warning is only set to come on when the engine is above a certain RPM (I think it's 1500, but I can't remember exactly).

So you could have zero oil pressure and leave the engine running day and night on idle....the car won't make a peep....until of course the inevitable bottom end engine failure begins to occur.

So just because the pressure light never came on when started up and at idle / low RPM that doesn't mean anything. This is exactly why I said to get an oil pressure gauge. That warning light on the dash is beyond useless and is NOT to be relied upon.

By the way, the thread size / pitch for the oil pressure gauge you need will be M10 x 1.0 and you need a 24mm deep socket to remove the oil pressure switch in the oil filter housing.

If you remove the oil pressure switch and fit a gauge and oil pressure is good at idle (above 0.8 bar), then check it at 2000 RPM, it should be 2.0 bar and above. Just remember that because the oil pressure switch is disconnected you WILL get a warning on the dash when you test at 2000 RPM. However as long as the pressure on the gauge is good (2.0 bar and above) then you can ignore the warning.

If you connect the gauge and there is no pressure at idle just turn it off and do not continue any further. Once you have confirmed no oil pressure it is time to start taking things apart. If you know you have a chain driven engine then the kit to buy to repair the fault would be the one I mentioned above.

It would also be a good idea to buy some conrod & main bearing cap bolts. That way you can remove the bearing cap for the conrod and main bearing nearest the flywheel (these tend to fail first) and inspect the bearings themselves. If the bearings are good you can refit with new bolts and continue with the modification. If the bearings show abnormal wear (metal on metal contact) due to the lack of oil pressure then you have a bigger issue to deal with, but that it something you will never know until you take it apart.

Most people get away with either no damage or simply just damage to the turbo when this failure occurs as long as the engine was turned off quickly. So if your wife turned off the car as soon as she saw the light I would suspect that it will need the kit linked to above to fix the fault and a new turbo at most, but as I have said, always good to check the bearings just for peace of mind.

 

[Joeyenz]

Good morning, oil tester just arrived this morning after a bit of a wait, I have it on the plug at the moment and just waiting for the car to charge. I was having a look at the replacement pumps should that be the problem and the complete unit seems to be the route for ease of assembly and no fabrication (saw there is a kit you can make up out of some other parts including a 1.9 oil pump and a pump or something from a 1.8t.

Is this the same kind of thing?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AUDI-A4-...m=263540733381&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

The one you posted @Mario looks to be a a more solid bet but at £625 its at present half the value of the car, being a high miler SE with some bolt on s-line parts.

Oh and it is as suspected a BLB code engine.

Also in addition to the conrod and bearing cap bolts is there anything else worth doing while I have the engine open? I will check bearings for wear as the car only came with some receipts of service but anyone aware of anything else to make her run a little nicer in old age?

 

[Mario]

With the kit you posted it looks like it is just an OEM part from a gear driven car that was broken for parts, so will still suffer failure and you will still need to replace the balance shaft within the unit for £215 + £125 refundable deposit.

Not to mention you have no idea what condition the oil pump is in. So that brings the cost up to £405 + £125 refundable deposit for a used item with unknown condition of oil pump vs £625 + £125 refundable deposit for the one I linked to which already has the modified balance shaft and a brand new genuine Audi oil pump and brand new drive gear.

Pays your money, takes your choices I suppose.

 

[Joeyenz]

Oh right, so the hex key is not a part of the oil pump assembly then? I was under the assumption the BLB engine code does not fit the OEM gear driven unit added to later cars, so this must have already been converted to a gear setup? Maybe I linked the wrong item but I was sure there was some that were specifically stated to be 'rebuilt' parts so still obviously from a breaker but one that had had the chain removed in favour of a gear, and presumably the longer hex?

Will start disassembly of the sump and pump today and see what the failure was.

Not trying to dispute your links or anything mate just trying to understand how the whole system works, thanks for your help!