gearbox oil change

Danny94

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Hi, I'm planning on changing the oil in my gearbox as I have no evidence of it ever being done what oil do I need for a 2010 Audi a3 8p1? Thanks.
 
manual? I will use on my HDV febi 21829, as on this weekend will change diff seals and oil.
 
I would use genuine oil. I had a gear oil change and the chap used Castrol gear oil. The gear change was so bad in cold weather I nearly sold the car.
I had another change with genuine VW oil and the gear change returned to perfect even in the recent freezing weather.
 
The oil thread above relates to engine oils not manual gearboxes. I would use the VAG gearbox oil recommended for your car. I am not a zealot for only using OE stuff apart from gearbox oils and engine sensors. The tolerances on modern gearboxes are quite tight and so thicker, general 75W-90 gear oils can make the change seem very stiff in colder weather. I would guess that VAG use a rather thin single viscosity gear oil like 75W.

I haven't changed mine yet (89,000 miles) but will probably aim to do so around 100,00 if I still have the car. There isn't really the need to over-enthusiastically change modern, synthetic gear oils as they do not suffer the same heat and contamination with combustion gases, as does engine oil. The gears merely have their "toes" dipped in a pool of oil.

This thread may be helpful. http://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/manual-gearbox-oil-query.316804/#post-2967513
 
Agreed, use OE oil, you need two litres approx. Do you know the correct way to refill it once it is drained?
 
Hi thanks for the replies I was planning on refilling with a hose and funnel. Any tips welcome though. Thanks
 
I think what Jezza means is that there is often a 2 stage oil filling process to make sure the oil does get to the correct level. Certainly with a 8L car the wheels are turned when in neutral after the initial fill to make sure the oil gets into all compartments of the gear box. Then the level is rechecked and then topped up again. A drive round the block then allow the car to stand before rechecking should do the trick also.
 
The OP requires G 052 171 which is a 70W75 .

As mentioned earlier people get it wrong and a thick Castrol etc 75w90 will ruin cold shifts .

OEM is usually expensive and
nondescript regarding data sheets and even viscosity .

The answer...

titan.sinto.75w.1l-02.jpg
 
On an 8P, I believe you have to drain it fully and then refill with the correct amount through the reversing light switch aperture. There is no 'overflow' check like in the days of old.
 
is there a 2-stage filling process for a manual gearbox?
 
Not on an 8P, you drain the oil from the drain plug, (below the diff I think) then measure up the correct amount of oil, 1.8L or 2.0L (I can't remember which, you need to check) and refill through the reversing light switch aperture (remove the switch first of course). There is no dedicated oil fill plug, although it may appear that there is one, it is no longer used on this box, if you do try to use it you will only get about half a litre in, a mistake made by many with dire consequences I suspect. There is no way to check the level, you just have to put the correct amount in after it has been emptied.
 
I would get it flushed as u can never get all the oil out as I believe a lot of it still remains in the gear box .. well on a auto it does
 
make doesn't matter, just need to be same spec. that why I used febi and done it yesterday, and helped me a lot. Gearbox is as new now. anyway the capacity is 2.3Liters
 

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