My s3 v6 build

I have a standard self adjusting clutch for an R32... Not sure what plates will work with it though

<tuffty/>
 
Whilst the engine is out is there anything I should be changing in the bay
 
Not sure I’m going to take the heat shielding off and check the pipes behind it and do the clucth master cylinder might also re locate the battery to the boot for a bit More room
 
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Can I clean the alternator and paint it without damaging it? Will brake clean and dust getting on the copper wire effect anything or I’d paint gets in the wire ?
 
Also if I spin the alternator pully by hand fast and don’t let go the pully will stop when my hand does and the blade will carry on is that normal?
 
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anyone know what this is ?
 
Can I use the aircon and power steering pump if the s3? Will the s3 alternator be useable it’s probably done less than a 1000 miles
 
I collect drp gearbox and transfer box in the morning, been looking at the battery relocation and get the full live wire Of a a6 c6 a for £10 a lot cheaper than of the r32 would the size of the engine mater or will it be the same across all models
 
I think it’s based on cranking power, that’s when the biggest request of power would be. So whatever battery a R32 would require. I’ve opted for a big *** battery.


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I use 60mmsq cable... 50mm or 60mm is fine to use... I have had no issue with the v6 cranking over the 20v on the same setup

<tuffty/>
 
I’m not sure what size cable the a6 uses can get that for the price of 1m of the 50mm stuff so was worth looking into , I don’t want to cut corners but also have to kind of reign in the spending In till I know what’s happening with work, will shop around for the 50mm stuff
 
Front memory I think I spend around £70 for the cables, terminals, terminal crimper, heat shrink sleeves and battery tray for the boot.


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Hmmmmm, I bought my cable from an agricultural tool supplier, they sell loads of it for tractors and a like so that’d be while I managed to get it cheap, was a couple years ago too.


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Play safe and get longer than you think you need... I used a length to replace the starter cable and the gearbox earth

<tuffty/>
 
I bought 8m which was plenty and for the starter. 500mm of black cable


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For my relocation I bought welding cable at a shop.. was cheaper then any other cable available, and more flexible(even though the copper core was thicker then the 'official' car power cables the sold..)
 
I'm assuming from your link its marked 6 but is actually number 8 in the chart?
 
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See I have doubts over that as vw state that the crank and head bolts are one time use and that must be for a reason especially the head bolts as they are stretch bolts even when torqued correctly
It’s just knowing what is one time use or not I know the engine mount bolts themselves are but not sure on the bolts for the brackets they fasten to
 
Important bolts such as head/crank/flywheel/rod/mains are one time use regardless IMO... I have and still do reuse other bolts such as engine/gearbox mounts and ancillary bolts etc... I do assess them based on my own experience and if they look obviously damaged thread or head wise then I will replace them...

I also 'life' certain bolts... if I have had engine mount bolts off a few times (it has happened due to clutch changes and belt changes in the past) then I will replace them as a matter of course...

Luckily due to owning my car for over 10 years I have a pretty good idea who was the last person to touch it so I know the history of it all and have replaced the engine mount bolts at least once during the 20v days... I have not replaced them since tbh as have felt no need to as I torque those bolts appropriately

<tuffty/>
 
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Tj 0785 said:
See I have doubts over that as vw state that the crank and head bolts are one time use and that must be for a reason especially the head bolts as they are stretch bolts even when torqued correctly
It’s just knowing what is one time use or not I know the engine mount bolts themselves are but not sure on the bolts for the brackets they fasten to
Click to expand...
Fair enough I was only ever aware of head bolts always needing to be changed..if in doubt just get new ones. Just for peace of mind
 
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Looks like I’m going to have to spin the turbo round a bit , I’m missing a few studs from the head for the exhaust manifold so will have to get them bolted fitted before I can bolt it up properly, also found my sai blank I , got inlet back from sand blasting will drill for map sensor and get it welded up since it’s pi55ing down it doesn’t look like il be doing the battery relocation today
 
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Just realised I dropped a b0ll0ck, I’ve fitted the sump back without welding a connection point for the turbo oil feed so will have to take that off again,
 
At least you’ve noticed it now mate, could have been worse!


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tbh I would wait until the engine is in the car and the driveshafts are connected... that way you can be sure its welded in the right place and clearing everything that matters

<tuffty/>
 
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Ok will wait till then, just looking through the few bits I got with the engine seems I don’t have the bracket for the additional coolant pump , still waiting for tps to deliver the various bolts I ordered got some of the hoses, but no progress really,
 
Dmf, and clucth ordered today along with the fluidampr crank pully
 
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Going swap my turbo to vband bought this on Facebookjust need to figure out how to swap it
 
audi upgrades
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