Running in advice after new rings and big end bearings

[Stuart B]

I am in the process of buying the oil and oil filters for completing my re-build (hopefully this month - November). The items which touch the oil and I am unsure of their impact are:

• skimmed degreased head
• new exhaust valves
• relapped inlet valves,
• new rings (hopefully gapped correctly <-- my actual biggest fear)
• new big end bearings
• new sump
• new rods
• cleaned cam cover
• new turbo CHRA
• new PCV pipework / delete with catch can
• new head and rocker gaskets
• cleaned oil pickup

So what is my best bet regarding first start?

1. I have a syringe with some first start oil for the turbo which I assume I just put into the hole for the oil feed before connecting it?

2. Tuffty Advised leaving the injectors disconnected and turn the engine over a few times to circulate the oil (I will probably re-check the level - after this before connecting the injectors again)

I read something about using mineral oil for literally 10 mins running on the Driveway? then change filter and oil? is this right, or should it be the normal oil? Should I add an engine flush with the first start?

Thanks for any advise - I am going the GSF tomorrow so will probably pick up the supplies then, but wont be ready to start for a few weeks still, so not that much of a hurry just trying to take advantage of the GSF60 code.

 

[<tuffty/>]

I ran mineral oil throughout my running in period... don't leave it sat idling for 10 mins though... ideally you wanna be driving it a little and build a little boost to help push the rings into the bores...

Don't rev out... keep it so its just coming onto to boost and change... first 50 miles or so are the most critical as thats when the rings will do most of the bedding in...

Change oil and filter at 50 miles... I continued running mineral to 200 miles then changed and again with mineral to 500 miles where I then changed to the oil I was going to continue to use in the engine... in my case at the time it was 5w40 fully synth... new filter each time (as they are cheap) and no need for a flush...

Inbetween time I did get a run on the dyno to help running in and thats where Bill runs his engines in but as long as you don't go crazy and rev out the engine, load it up in short bursts to force the rings out then all should be good...

Keep N75 electrically disconnected to prevent the boost from running away

What injectors are you using?

<tuffty/>

 

[Stuart B]

okay so it's okay to use mineral oil for the initial running in period, thanks for those details.

my plan is still the same

1. check the car doesn't "crash bang wallop" after all the amateur work carried out on it. <-- NOVEMBER

2. running in with low power no N75 which is still 15psi according to the actuator rating
That is pretty damn stiff, I cannot operate the actuator without a screwdriver for leverage - but could easily pull apart the stock actuator. The Fake K04 I bought has a stiff actuator too - I think they are supposed to be 11psi) <-- DECEMBER

3. assuming with a low power map the logged fueling keeps up, I will continue with stock injectors until the new year - either running without N75 or map the load so it only just gets to 15/16psi to operate the wastegate.

4. look for 550 Injectors along with my "new in the S3" HASS Fuel Pump - to see what is safely feasible.
<-- JANUARY

5. if necessary a bigger fuel pump - I know the Dw65 are perfect but I was also looking at Da-31 but they seem too cheap to be any good.
<-- FEBRUARY

6. Cat back exhaust - a visit to a professional to point and laugh and adjust the map
<-- MARCH/APRIL

for the initial "safe map" I was going to simply adjust a stock maps fuelling cascading down to 0.82, then adjust the load until the "desired" figures match the "actual" from the uprated actuator, so I know that the software matches the hardware. The thought is then if the N75 is plugged in the logs should be the same.

The massive risk as Bill pointed out in a Logging Thread recently is ME7Logger only tells you what the figures "were" so if something is wrong you may have already done the damage.

 

[JonnyDerv]

I ran mineral oil for the first 1000 miles both times I ran in. You’ll hear different opinions on the best way to run it in, I take the slow approach, driving normally up to around 3500 revs, varying revs, for first 250 or so miles then gradually venturing into higher rpm. Didn’t floor it till after 1000 but that’s just me. Worked fine for me and my friends cars who have taken the same approach. I liked to take mine down long hills in low gear (relatively), no throttle to create engine vacuum.

After drives I’d check for any oil or water leaks visible.

 

[hydro s3]

I did the way tuffty advised me to do my engine run in which is obviously the same as above. I haven't had a compression test done but every thing feels dead on and no oil is being used.
So cheers tuffty if I haven't already said.

 

[Stuart B]

so looking for my first couple of oil changes of mineral oil and halfords use a classic car mineral oil (in an old fashioned metal can) and a "multi-grade" oil which doesn't include part-synthetic / semi-synthetic / fully-synthetic.

both are £20 for 5 litres - is there any benefit in using one over the other?

 

[hydro s3]

You can get proper Miller's running in oil for about £20-£25 for a 5L

 

[superkarl]

I did same intervals as Tuffty.
I loaded my engine up as much as possible but always below 4k-ish. Load is important. Don’t baby it

 

[Stuart B]

You can get proper Miller's running in oil for about £20-£25 for a 5L

thanks I will take a look.

 

[Stuart B]

Hi so I now have 15 litres of mineral oil, 10 of millers running in and 5 of wilko.

The suggested running in intervals are 50,200, 500
Miller's can only be used for 500 in any case.

What is the best order of use? I am thinking-
Wilkos 50ish
Millers 200ish
Millers 500

Or would the Millers be better for the first 2 changes?


Not bad for 40 quid on eBay.

 

[<tuffty/>]

Basic principle of running in is to force a degree of wear so using modern oils can prevent that from happening quickly enough... this is why I used mineral in mine really... modern oils protect better long term obviously but as you are aware of whats going on you know not to run the cheaper stuff too hard too long

500 miles max is per fill I would imagine so two changes would see you 1000 miles max....

The intervals you have suggested seem fine to me...

<tuffty/>