I have a 2011 2.0 TDI avant black edition. The nsf wheel bearing failed which I got replaced. Within 4 weeks it had failed. The garage replaced it again under warranty. Tonight 3 weeks after the second replacement on the way home the car felt weird and with the steering at 9 o’clock it would engage the nsf brake. Very scary. Had it jacked up and stripped and two of the bearing retaining bolts had come out. Is this a sign of something deeper wrong with my car poss driveshaft. Can’t feel anything when driving so not sure. Any ideas would be appreciated.
Wheel bearing bolts working loose
- Thread starter betamike25
- Start date
Well someone isn't doing their job right. Bolts shouldn't be loose after 3 weeks.
Check out Dave Sterl's video, at 19m 30sec. He tightens them diagonally using new stretch bolts, 80Nm + 90 degrees. Looks like the bolts come with threadlock compound on the thread too.
Check out Dave Sterl's video, at 19m 30sec. He tightens them diagonally using new stretch bolts, 80Nm + 90 degrees. Looks like the bolts come with threadlock compound on the thread too.
I can confirm they have been torqued correctly. The drivers side was done at the same time and had no problems at all with it. It’s just the passenger side giving the issues. The passenger side first bearing replacement became extremely noisy within a few weeks. Replaced FOC then now the loose bolts.
Tbh, the torque plus degrees is very tight, they should not come loose unless 1st the bolts arent being torqued correctly & with a calibrated wrench which some techs in indy garages dont do due to cost & cause they're lazy, 2nd, the bearings use have an inherent thread fault or soft metal, 3rd, which I just dont see happening tbh, that corner is receiving vast amounts of excessive vibration the bolts are coming loose.
Personally I would go with no.1, as plus 90 degrees after 80 lb is tight.
Bear in mind, there are a few different bearing types that use different torques & degrees extra, however, this usually is related to the center bolt type, not usually bearing itself.
Are they genuine audi bearings & is he changing the bolts for new, if not, try an audi unit & new bolts, I'm sure that will give you a clue as to what's going on.
Ah, just thought, is he tightening the center bolt up correctly as this bolt type denotes the required torque to use, if that's not right then the bearing could be receiving alloy of bumps back & forth.
Personally I would go with no.1, as plus 90 degrees after 80 lb is tight.
Bear in mind, there are a few different bearing types that use different torques & degrees extra, however, this usually is related to the center bolt type, not usually bearing itself.
Are they genuine audi bearings & is he changing the bolts for new, if not, try an audi unit & new bolts, I'm sure that will give you a clue as to what's going on.
Ah, just thought, is he tightening the center bolt up correctly as this bolt type denotes the required torque to use, if that's not right then the bearing could be receiving alloy of bumps back & forth.
Yes complete kit fitted both times with new bolts. The bearings have come from MPD: I think I’m going to bite the bullet and stick it in Audi next week
May have a colleague down that way, I'll ask & let you know, he's very well trained in vag, so if available he could probably do the job.
Just replied to an earlier post on the B8 site regards replacing a coil-spring and Autodoc's how-to video (where they have removed the drive-shaft retaining bolt) they were advising 140Nm with an air-ratchet. That's not the case it's 200Nm initial torque with the car raised, then lower car and further adjust bolt 180 degrees. You'll likely need a 1 extension tube on a 1m breaker bar to achieve, and even then - that's going some.
This is over and above the bearing to hub torque values I posted last year.
This is over and above the bearing to hub torque values I posted last year.
It's actually dependent on the bolt type supplied, some are 200 plus 180 degrees, others aren't, it's detailed in elsawin, Erwin, you need to check this beforehand for your specific vin.
Getting 200 plus 180 is very difficult tbh, I have the largest snapon techangle & that has a fairly high max torque & even that can't get it to 180 degrees & actually warns me it's Max'd out, I'm surprised Audi do state this, alas.
That previous guy is a spammer, from Chicago but posting an ad from Australia, yeah like he ordered bolts from other side of the world you can't get in the states.
Getting 200 plus 180 is very difficult tbh, I have the largest snapon techangle & that has a fairly high max torque & even that can't get it to 180 degrees & actually warns me it's Max'd out, I'm surprised Audi do state this, alas.
That previous guy is a spammer, from Chicago but posting an ad from Australia, yeah like he ordered bolts from other side of the world you can't get in the states.
