Front propshaft donut

aqibi2000

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Hi,

anyone here done the front pro shaft donut change themselves?
Any pointers for me please, only have the car on ramps.
 
Gotta remove this for a client who needs the gear unit changed out, not looking forward to it, alas its still a job.
 
Gotta remove this for a client who needs the gear unit changed out, not looking forward to it, alas its still a job.
Is that the transfer box, good luck I’m sure someone of your calibre will have it done it no time. Agree money is money job has to be done.

I’m hoping it’s straight forward. What I’m hoping is to be able to remove only the front half of the driveshaft without having to touch anything else other than the engine mount dogbone.

Official workshop instructions for me are not great.

 
I think rule of thumb is, don't let any part of the prop hang to create any bend or damage to either end, as even mm makes a huge difference, which I'm sure you know & replace bolts for new as its quite an expensive repair if they fail.
 
I think rule of thumb is, don't let any part of the prop hang to create any bend or damage to either end, as even mm makes a huge difference, which I'm sure you know & replace bolts for new as its quite an expensive repair if they fail.

Does the prop actually push back inside self to be able to remove it (like does the length of it compress a bit like the driveshafts).
That’s the part I’m struggling to get my head around.



Here a pic of the obliterated donut. +400Nm launch
 

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Afaik from elsa, its just bolted in place, but I haven't spent more time since as had the awful flu.
 
Afaik from elsa, its just bolted in place, but I haven't spent more time since as had the awful flu.
Reading horrors of people accidentally splitting the prop from the centre bearing. It can’t be reassembled since 4 of the bearing balls are installed during the friction welding process.

But my car is 2006 so maybe it has the take apart propshaft. I dunno
 
I'll try to check elsa more later once my eyes open more lol
 
Damage is worse than I thought.



bevel box mount broke first under load, and twisted upwards, as a result the angle to the propshaft damaged and the coupler slipped off and getting chewed up.
B0E53D25 277D 4ED4 8B8B BA833D889E99
Many many bolts on the bevel box look like they had vibrated off over the years (it sheeree) and this launch was the final straw!

Check your botls guys.

Hopefully it’s hold with 1-2 less bolts when I get replacements
 
I’m going to need to remove the transfer case to assess the full extent of damage to the threads, whilst it’s out I’ll be able to address the propshaft coupler without removing or bending it at all too.

anyone know if it’s possible to remove the bevel box (transfer case) without removing the subframe?
 
Anyone got ETKA, able to tell me the torque values for these bolts:

Transfer Case mounting bolts:
4 - transfer case bolts to gearbox
3 - bracket to transfer case bolts

Front propshaft coupler mounting bolts (1J0 521 127 A)
3 - propshaft to the coupler torque (longer bolts)
3 - propshaft coupler to the transfer case output flange (shorter bolts)

Slowly getting there with the repairs!

cheers
 

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50Nm + 90 prop to coupler
60Nm coupler to flange

transfer case tightened in various stages but final torque is 40Nm
 
Mission complete and never again. FML, zero clearance jobby

improvised counter hold tool since the normal one I have for timing belts didn’t fit.
 

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Havnt checked etka yet, but from your recollection, does prop & exhaust need to drop to get the gear unit to pop downwards as after seeing this kinda prefer not to disturb lol
 
Havnt checked etka yet, but from your recollection, does prop & exhaust need to drop to get the gear unit to pop downwards as after seeing this kinda prefer not to disturb lol
Disconnecting the prop from the transfer box is easy just 3 bolts on the rear, just need a 12inch extension, stick the car into gear and loosen.
What I has issues with was the 3 bolts on the opposite side which mount the propshaft coupler to the prop (this is on the engine facing side hence the issues).

You’ll be fine just unbolting the 3, just use new spline bolt, they are about £7-8.
 
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