Hi, can someone please help before I roll my car in to the creek?! (I have searched extensively on here and other forums but have not found anything specific to these symptoms/ issues).
Audi A3 1.6 TDI Sportback 2012 (98000 miles):
A month ago whilst driving I would intermittently get the 'Check Brake Pads' warning come on in the cluster. There was no pattern to this, once it came on as I came to a gentle stop, another time when I hit a small pothole.
Whether this is coincidental or not I don't know, but I then started noticing a fast knocking noise and vibration when I pressed the clutch pedal completely in.
Couple of days later when signalling, it would flash in the opposite direction to which I'd moved the stalk, then flash both indicators at the same time before stopping. Switching off the car then starting again would temporarily fix this.
A few days after this having not driven the car, I went to start it, the engine started as normal but the instrument cluster clocks were completely dead and a whole bunch of warning lights were on. Switched off but warning lights stayed on for a long time with key removed and car locked.
Later the same day I tried again, this time the cluster was completely dead, no clocks, warning lights, digital display, nothing. The engine fired up but then cut out after a second or so, so immobiliser was licking in.
So this is now where the car has been at for the past three weeks. Key fob/ locking works, lights all work, climate control works, alarm arms. Radio is dead, windows don't work, cluster is dead and engine starts but cuts out after a second.
So far I have: Disconnected battery overnight, no change. Checked battery charge, good. Checked all fuses in engine bay and side of dash, all intact and passed continuity test. Checked the brakes and cabling from the sensor for damage, all good. Swapped instrument cluster for a matched model number spare, no change. Removed ECU and checked for signs of water damage/ corrosion of harnesses, none present. Checked earthing points in engine bay and plenum chamber, all clean and good contact. Traced harnesses between ECU, battery and fuse box to check for wear, at points the fabric tape was worn so I cut it back but all wires are intact and no damage. Checked all harness plugs for correct seating, all good. Checked cabling between ignition, cluster, CCM etc., no signs of wear or damage. Removed battery tray and engine bay fuse box to look for corrosion, none present and all clean. Swapped '100' relay in main fuse box for a know working one, no change. Swapped around relays (I think '463's) in CCM, no change. Checked for signs of water ingress extensively inside and out, dry.
I've had two different mechanics look at it. One didn't know where to begin but suggested using a multimeter to check voltages. I'm no expert with one but checked various harnesses to find no power going to cluster
The second one ran a diagnostic, which threw up so many codes he didn't know where to start but suggested I get an auto sparky out. He did send me images of his diagnostic which are below (sorry they are not the clearest):
So I am at a complete loss. I can't move the car and am reluctant to have anyone else come out and charge me to say they can't help. I've had a very reputable auto electrician say he's not certain but would bet against a bad ECU given the symptoms, but can't come out as he's not a mobile business. Just to note; the only work done on the car was six months ago I changed the front discs and pads which have been operating fine. New battery a year ago and I had a window regulator break when some bellend kindly kicked off my wing mirror which I had to replace, disturbing the pulley cables in the process. This has been working since I replaced the parts but very stiff.
Any suggestions of what to check next would be greatly appreciated. I'm left thinking that I have to have a broken cable somewhere, but where I haven't looked already!?
Thank you, Sam.
Audi A3 1.6 TDI Sportback 2012 (98000 miles):
A month ago whilst driving I would intermittently get the 'Check Brake Pads' warning come on in the cluster. There was no pattern to this, once it came on as I came to a gentle stop, another time when I hit a small pothole.
Whether this is coincidental or not I don't know, but I then started noticing a fast knocking noise and vibration when I pressed the clutch pedal completely in.
Couple of days later when signalling, it would flash in the opposite direction to which I'd moved the stalk, then flash both indicators at the same time before stopping. Switching off the car then starting again would temporarily fix this.
A few days after this having not driven the car, I went to start it, the engine started as normal but the instrument cluster clocks were completely dead and a whole bunch of warning lights were on. Switched off but warning lights stayed on for a long time with key removed and car locked.
Later the same day I tried again, this time the cluster was completely dead, no clocks, warning lights, digital display, nothing. The engine fired up but then cut out after a second or so, so immobiliser was licking in.
So this is now where the car has been at for the past three weeks. Key fob/ locking works, lights all work, climate control works, alarm arms. Radio is dead, windows don't work, cluster is dead and engine starts but cuts out after a second.
So far I have: Disconnected battery overnight, no change. Checked battery charge, good. Checked all fuses in engine bay and side of dash, all intact and passed continuity test. Checked the brakes and cabling from the sensor for damage, all good. Swapped instrument cluster for a matched model number spare, no change. Removed ECU and checked for signs of water damage/ corrosion of harnesses, none present. Checked earthing points in engine bay and plenum chamber, all clean and good contact. Traced harnesses between ECU, battery and fuse box to check for wear, at points the fabric tape was worn so I cut it back but all wires are intact and no damage. Checked all harness plugs for correct seating, all good. Checked cabling between ignition, cluster, CCM etc., no signs of wear or damage. Removed battery tray and engine bay fuse box to look for corrosion, none present and all clean. Swapped '100' relay in main fuse box for a know working one, no change. Swapped around relays (I think '463's) in CCM, no change. Checked for signs of water ingress extensively inside and out, dry.
I've had two different mechanics look at it. One didn't know where to begin but suggested using a multimeter to check voltages. I'm no expert with one but checked various harnesses to find no power going to cluster
The second one ran a diagnostic, which threw up so many codes he didn't know where to start but suggested I get an auto sparky out. He did send me images of his diagnostic which are below (sorry they are not the clearest):
So I am at a complete loss. I can't move the car and am reluctant to have anyone else come out and charge me to say they can't help. I've had a very reputable auto electrician say he's not certain but would bet against a bad ECU given the symptoms, but can't come out as he's not a mobile business. Just to note; the only work done on the car was six months ago I changed the front discs and pads which have been operating fine. New battery a year ago and I had a window regulator break when some bellend kindly kicked off my wing mirror which I had to replace, disturbing the pulley cables in the process. This has been working since I replaced the parts but very stiff.
Any suggestions of what to check next would be greatly appreciated. I'm left thinking that I have to have a broken cable somewhere, but where I haven't looked already!?
Thank you, Sam.
