The sound trick works on any sensor that gets power. Any car.
Check this at 3:15
View: https://youtu.be/0dooytSUOnc?si=8rPGSD9r_IKT6o2x
I also got mine from AliExpress. One of them got burned really fast and bought second had originals from eBay as well.
Yh i used that same slot. You know how the other slots have two wires how comes that one only has one wire?Fuse slot 5 is the one I used too.
First row. See the yellow cable.
Check with the multimeter if there is 12v with the ignition off or not.
Ok i will try that. And do i set the multi meter to 20V? And this is with ignition on or off?You need to put one probe in the use and the negative probe on an earth
Both fuse pins will be at 12v if there is a fuse connected
It sounds to me like a wiring fault to the sensors. What sensors are they? Anything from AliExpress raises red flags for me as who knows what it is
To be honest used genuine sensors would be my recommendation. The front and rear sensors are so plentiful due to being common across VAG. The side PLA ones are not as common
Does each sensor have 12v going to it (tested with multimeter)?
Thanks i will give that a go once im back, im just away for the weekend. I will let you know what the results are.If you set the multimeter to 20v, then it will count up to 20. So you are ok. If tor example you would want to measure something 50v, then you should change the dial to higher voltage. Some multimeters are AUTO. Anyway.
Each sensor has 3 cables.
12v power (pin 1), signal (pin 2), ground/earth(pin 3).
So if you test with the multimeter at pins 1 and 3 the connectors, there should be 12v from the module.
You don't have problem with the difference in 0.35mm2 and 0.5mm2.
Also check the connector of the module, the T16 connector. Where power comes to the module.
Check if you measure 12v at pins 1 and 8.
So i havent had a chance to check the parking sensors cables yet but i have checked the t16 connector on pin 1 and 8 and i got a reading which kept fluctuating from -13.88 to -13.93. Is this ok? Should it be negative? I have attached a pic. I will check the parking sensors connectors tomorrow.If you set the multimeter to 20v, then it will count up to 20. So you are ok. If tor example you would want to measure something 50v, then you should change the dial to higher voltage. Some multimeters are AUTO. Anyway.
Each sensor has 3 cables.
12v power (pin 1), signal (pin 2), ground/earth(pin 3).
So if you test with the multimeter at pins 1 and 3 the connectors, there should be 12v from the module.
You don't have problem with the difference in 0.35mm2 and 0.5mm2.
Also check the connector of the module, the T16 connector. Where power comes to the module.
Check if you measure 12v at pins 1 and 8.
Yh i probably did have the cables wrong way my bad. And yes i had the engine running, should i test it with just ignition on?Negative means you have the positive probe on the negative cable/earth
Fluctuating around that voltage is normal when the alternator is charging the battery. I assume you had the engine running at the time?
Ok thats good. I will check the connectors of the parking sensor looms tomorrow. Is there any way i can check the parking sensors itself with the multimeter to see if they are faulty or not?No that's fine, if it has power with it running it will have power with ignition only also but closer to the 12 volts region
On vcds you can see all 10 sensors on measuring blocks.I'm not sure what measuring blocks the PDC module has but might be worth having a look. It might have each sensor individually listed. I don't have PLA on my TT, only 8 sensors, but I have a MK6 Golf with factory fitted PLA I could compare with
I can see all 10 sensors on the vcds, does this mean its powered on? See attached.On vcds you can see all 10 sensors on measuring blocks.
Not sure in this case where the system does not work yet!
You should add PLA! Your TT is almost an A3!!
Ive already tried to do that before it didnt work so if there is actual power going to the connectors then it must be a faulty sensor?And if you have power to the connectors of the sensors, do the audio test with your phone as well!
It is a bit tricky to position the mic at the sensor but you will understand when you do it!
You should add PLA! Your TT is almost an A3!!
I can see all 10 sensors on the vcds, does this mean its powered on?
On vcds you can see all 10 sensors on measuring blocks.
Not sure in this case where the system does not work yet!
You should add PLA! Your TT is almost an A3!!
So ive checked each rear parking sensor loom connectors and they are all showing as 1.0v so as they were all showing the same i thought id checked the module connector T12i and check pin 8 and 11 and it was showing 1.0V aswell. And then i thought let me check pin 1 and 8 of T16f on the module and see what reading i get and it showed 13.0V and i didnt want to take my front bumper for now so i just unplugged the connector in the engine connecting to the front sensor looms and check the pins there and it was reading 13.0v also. So am i right to assume i have a faulty module? And the rear t12i connection is faulty? Is there any way i can repair this?Do those figures change when there are objects in the way?
255 sounds very coincidentally like the max value of a byte so wondering if it's just defaulting to that if there's an issue
It doesnt really specify which sensor so i assume its the overall.I'd have to look at the measuring blocks for mine
In your screenshot it says 1.1 volts. Is that for a particular sensor?
This is for sure a problem.but on T12i i only get 1.0V from the module.
Yes i measured this directly from pins 8 and 11 of the module.This is for sure a problem.
You did a measurement with that loom disconnected correct? Directly on the pins of the module. Pins 8 and 11.
Yh i did take it off but i cant see anything on the board which would be causing this issue.So if you have correct voltage to the module, and the module provides correct voltage to the front loom, but not correct voltage to the back loom, then probably you have a faulty module. Not sure at all if this is fixable. You can take of the cover and see for any visible damage. Maybe corrosion on any pins
The only other thing i could do is swap the sensor with the used oem ones to check if its a sensor issue and then see if there is 12V to the back. Or if someone can check what Volt they get from pins 8 and 11 of their PLA module and see if its similar to mine or not. Otherwise im going to need to get another module but it is very hard to find a another pla module, ive looked around and i cant find any used ones. New ones are £200+, way to expensive! I just have to hope one pops up soon.And not sure if it should have 12v voltage to the back when the system is not working.
To the front, there should be always 12v, because it is always scanning the 2 side sensors. Because as soon as you press the PLA button, it shows you the free spot even if you have passed the beginning of it. So I suppose it keeps measuring all the time at least the 2 side sensors.
But then you might should have measurements at the measuring blocks for at least the front sensors. Not that value of 255.
If you can source another module for testing that would be great!
I have managed to source another pla module to compare and i am getting the same issues and fault codes. So i guess my original module cant be faulty?This is for sure a problem.
You did a measurement with that loom disconnected correct? Directly on the pins of the module. Pins 8 and 11.
So if you have correct voltage to the module, and the module provides correct voltage to the front loom, but not correct voltage to the back loom, then probably you have a faulty module. Not sure at all if this is fixable. You can take of the cover and see for any visible damage. Maybe corrosion on any pins.
And not sure if it should have 12v voltage to the back when the system is not working.
To the front, there should be always 12v, because it is always scanning the 2 side sensors. Because as soon as you press the PLA button, it shows you the free spot even if you have passed the beginning of it. So I suppose it keeps measuring all the time at least the 2 side sensors.
But then you might should have measurements at the measuring blocks for at least the front sensors. Not that value of 255.
If you can source another module for testing that would be great!
It is a new module but i also get the same message when im changing the coding on my can gateway.The uninitialised message must mean you have a brand new module fitted? Or if not there is no harm accepting the VCDS defaults
It is possible the module is cutting power to the sensors because of the fault
I would definitely fit the OEM ones as AliExpress stuff is generally rubbish, and go from there
I am still suspicious of the sensor wiring based on the fault codes
Which canbus are you using for the PDC module?
Sorry ive been busy and havent had a chance to swap my sensors for the used oem ones. I ended up replacing both front and back. I havent changed the PLA sensors yet but i have ordered some as i cant be asked to rely on the aliexpress ones as im sure theyll fail sooner or later.The canbus wiring sounds correct
Well I'd say swap the sensors and then go from there. The fault codes indicate an electrical fault, which is either the wiring or the sensors
You've checked the wiring so really it only leaves the sensors
No i havent, i wasnt aware that was something i had to do. How do i do it? Is there a tickbox or is it some coding i need to change?Have you enabled the adaptation for PLA in your ABS module? Just wondering if that could be the issue
I have downloaded the main guide from @henkkeumus but there was nothing in there about changing the code in the abs module. @George Kost do you know how to do this?I believe the details are in the main guide thread on here. I don't have it in my car ATM