3.0 tdi mechanical manuals, cant get alternator out!

[Sloppy_1]

As above i cant quite fit the alternator out of the gap between the chassis and sump is literally cant quite fit,

looked online for manuals and cant find owt i do have a haynes for a previous a4 but the 3.0tdi us not covered so no use,

think i will either have to remove engine mount so it can drop at this end or slacken the subframe mounts as its EXTREMELY close to coming out!

any tips much appreciated!

 

[Sloppy_1]

I managed to squease this out of the tiny gap after messing around like some sort of Tetris challenge finding the most efficient route!!
Almost certain there must be an easier was I suppose you could remove front but that would be a big job? I managed to compress the tensioner for belt with cable tie so did not mess with front panel at all which saved alot of time.
Anyway if anyone has pdf link to manuals I would be very grateful as I’m sure would be handy for the future

 

[desertstorm]

Putting the lock carrier in the service position is the recommended way of doing this. A lot of jobs you can find alternative ways of doing them that may save some time but as you have found can be difficult. With the front opened up the job to change the alternator is a doddle. I had to change the drivers side engine mount on my B8 A4 3.0 TDI and peeled the front off. Actually doesn't take that long to do. Had to remove the alternator before being able to get at the engine mount.
I bought a few discs off fleabay many years ago with all the ELSA WIN info on for Audi, VW, Skoda and Seat . Like having a Haynes manual for every car made upto around 2014. Invaluable for all the stuff I have done on my A4 and my TT. It takes up around 50Gb on my hard drive but well worth it.
This is for a B7 ASB 3.0 TDI.

 

[Charlie Farley]

Nice one .

 

[Sloppy_1]

Putting the lock carrier in the service position is the recommended way of doing this. A lot of jobs you can find alternative ways of doing them that may save some time but as you have found can be difficult. With the front opened up the job to change the alternator is a doddle. I had to change the drivers side engine mount on my B8 A4 3.0 TDI and peeled the front off. Actually doesn't take that long to do. Had to remove the alternator before being able to get at the engine mount.
I bought a few discs off fleabay many years ago with all the ELSA WIN info on for Audi, VW, Skoda and Seat . Like having a Haynes manual for every car made upto around 2014. Invaluable for all the stuff I have done on my A4 and my TT. It takes up around 50Gb on my hard drive but well worth it.
This is for a B7 ASB 3.0 TDI.
View attachment 262323View attachment 262324View attachment 262325

Thankyou for posting this,

i love the way it says 'remove the alternator' all the stuff before was easy removing it was the hard bit!!!
i guess its prob front end off job as you say its not too bad really but i dint fancy the extra time if it was not required.

i might have elsa on a laptop i got off ebay with some diagnostic stuff on, i will have a search!

out of interest what was wrong with your engine mount, did you see a code in vcds, one of mine has started recently with a fault only visible in vcds.

 

[desertstorm]

out of interest what was wrong with your engine mount, did you see a code in vcds, one of mine has started recently with a fault only visible in vcds.

Could feel a vibration through the car when the engine was idling. No other issues so I checked for faults and got an error code for the drivers side engine mount. Upon removing the inner arch liner and looking at it I found it had pretty much broken apart in 3 or 4 pieces. The aluminium brackets had corroded and broken. The engine mounts have a solenoid in them that allows the stiffness of the mount to be adjusted. At idle and upto about 1500 rpm they are soft, over that they firm up. The rubber in the mount was all split and the wiring broken hence it was showing open circuit. The engine was almost sitting on the chassis rail on the drivers side, which was the vibration I could feel. Too many launches at Santa pod and other places I presume. All good after the mount was replaced.

Old mount on the left, New one on the right.

 

[Gmac]

Where did you purchase your new engine mount? I could see a slight leak from mine the other day on the drivers side.

 

[desertstorm]

Where did you purchase your new engine mount? I could see a slight leak from mine the other day on the drivers side.

I bought it off Fleabay. Just found the part number and looked for the best price. They are not handed so will fit either side. I fitted a Meyle item. There are Lemforder and Febi items available. Any of these would be a similar quality to the OE part.
Had a quick look.

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[Sloppy_1]

b7 is a fairly std mount, much more std i.e dounut of rubber with studs top and bottom

 

[stellacerveza]

Putting the lock carrier in the service position is the recommended way of doing this. A lot of jobs you can find alternative ways of doing them that may save some time but as you have found can be difficult. With the front opened up the job to change the alternator is a doddle. I had to change the drivers side engine mount on my B8 A4 3.0 TDI and peeled the front off. Actually doesn't take that long to do. Had to remove the alternator before being able to get at the engine mount.
I bought a few discs off fleabay many years ago with all the ELSA WIN info on for Audi, VW, Skoda and Seat . Like having a Haynes manual for every car made upto around 2014. Invaluable for all the stuff I have done on my A4 and my TT. It takes up around 50Gb on my hard drive but well worth it.
This is for a B7 ASB 3.0 TDI.
View attachment 262323View attachment 262324View attachment 262325

Thanks very much for the above diagrams and info. New member here. Generally use forums when I'm in a fix so to give something back here I am posting a few pictures. Its's an A6 Quattro 3.0 TDI from 2005.

Firstly saw how the tensioner works and was able to get my hands in by putting the car in service position by removing the front and dragging it forwards a few inches. So after removing the belt it was on to the alternator.

New alternator pictured. Removed it without undoing these pipes. Looked complicated so tried to make as much room as possible by instead undoing the two brackets on these pipes shown and moving the rubber mount along to the left and taking off the earth too.

Then by returning the front into it's original position and carefully levering down pipes the alternator had enough space to come out freely.

Personally those diagrams posted above gave me enough confidence to complete this job. The issues with the car is the battery going flat so thought best to start with an alternator and take it from there. Read above a few of you have managed to obtain workshop manuals on-line and thinking of investing in some. Have a feeling something is wrong with the control module, mmi or it needs hooking up to a computer to set the new battery up but I am a home mechanic and haven't upgraded to more sophisticated testing methods. More research required there. My kit is mostly socket sets, multimeter, various hex bolts etc. and lots of perseverance reading forums. Most of my vehicles are VW 1983-1993 and have got by until now with Haynes manuals and a Peugeot workshop download somebody on another forum sent over.
Apologies if repeating what is already being said elsewhere on the forum.