Self Servicing an S3

strtnz

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Bought a 67 S3 a few weeks ago with "full Audi service history" which apparently equates to just engine oil & filter changes, and a pollen filter change. It's on 70k so I suspect (and hope!) that the previous owner has done some fluid changes his/herself.

Main point is I had a quote from an Audi specialist near me of ~£750 for a major service (plugs and air filter included) and gearbox and haldex oil change. I'm fairly mechanically minded and an engineer by trade so I'm pretty used to getting involved with things but I've never actually changed any oil or filters before so I'm a bit wary, especially on a higher performance car. But at the same time, the oil changes (including haldex/gearbox) look really easy and I know spark plugs/air filter are a piece of cake so I'm wanting to get my hands dirty.

Including tools such as pumps (I already have jacks and stands, a torque wrench and hand tools) I'm thinking the outlay for oils, plugs, filters etc. would be around £300-400 but I haven't done my research on this part yet.

Just after some advice really; is it as easy as it looks? Drain the old fluid, be careful with the amount that's put in, clean or change filters, run if necessary and top up (haldex for example) or am I missing something that makes it worthwhile taking to a garage?




These are the two vids I've watched but if you have any others that you feel reflect the reality of what's to be done, I'd be very appreciative of them.

EDIT: Brake fluid change was involved too. Again, I've not done this and bleeding it has always seemed a pain in the *** to me but I'm assuming it's one of things that's actually a lot simpler than I've ever conceived.
 
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Aside from brake fluid change and DSG oil change (the gearbox oil is expensive and the cost for Audi to do it wasn't that much more than the cost of oil), I have serviced my S3 myself with genuine parts or equivalent aftermarket (Mann, Bosch, NGK).

Engine oil, Haldex, spark plugs, air and pollen filters are easily accessible as you say.
 
You will need vcds or some form of diag tool to do the dsg gearbox oil change. Gearbox oil need to be up to a certain temp then dropped then new oil needs warmed up again and topped up.
to be honest, any of the fluid changes is a pain to do on axle stands and jacks as you need to crawl under car and try not to spill on driveway and get fluid all over yourself then there’s the disposing of the fluid at proper recycling places. Everything else like filters and spark plugs are easy enough.
last time at dealers haldex oil change around £120 and gearbox was around £220. As mentioned above the dsg oil is expensive so wasn’t worth doing myself even though I got access to a ramp.
 
I did look into the gearbox oil yesterday and saw I'll need VCDS or similar to get it up to temp, 30-50°C if I remember correctly? And it's about £200 for VCDS so not a cheap outlay, but then I am buying a cheap car just to track mod so that may not be a bad investment in the long run anyway.

What confused me in the end was when I started looking at diff and transfer box fluids too. Got a bit confusing between diffs, Haldex, and transfer box.

But what's ultimately leaning me towards doing this is I'll be doing around 15k miles per year and the cost of servicing that properly will soon add up, so investing time and money into the kit now will help me in the long run. Perhaps I'll leave the DSG change to the pros but try to tackle everything else.
 
As stated make sure you warm the engine up properly before doing any liquid changes, that way it drops out most of the old easier.

Ideally you need to just refill haldex etc as per spec, topping that up isn't necessary as long as a certain process is followed & volume refilled meets the numbers so to speak.
 
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Does anyone have an idea of what mileage the air filter needs changing on a 8v S3 ?
Its a 19 plate on 33,800 miles .
 
Bought a 67 S3 a few weeks ago with "full Audi service history" which apparently equates to just engine oil & filter changes, and a pollen filter change. It's on 70k so I suspect (and hope!) that the previous owner has done some fluid changes his/herself.

Main point is I had a quote from an Audi specialist near me of ~£750 for a major service (plugs and air filter included) and gearbox and haldex oil change. I'm fairly mechanically minded and an engineer by trade so I'm pretty used to getting involved with things but I've never actually changed any oil or filters before so I'm a bit wary, especially on a higher performance car. But at the same time, the oil changes (including haldex/gearbox) look really easy and I know spark plugs/air filter are a piece of cake so I'm wanting to get my hands dirty.

Including tools such as pumps (I already have jacks and stands, a torque wrench and hand tools) I'm thinking the outlay for oils, plugs, filters etc. would be around £300-400 but I haven't done my research on this part yet.

Just after some advice really; is it as easy as it looks? Drain the old fluid, be careful with the amount that's put in, clean or change filters, run if necessary and top up (haldex for example) or am I missing something that makes it worthwhile taking to a garage?




These are the two vids I've watched but if you have any others that you feel reflect the reality of what's to be done, I'd be very appreciative of them.

EDIT: Brake fluid change was involved too. Again, I've not done this and bleeding it has always seemed a pain in the *** to me but I'm assuming it's one of things that's actually a lot simpler than I've ever conceived.

Have you considered looking into Audi All in as this includes warranty, you may benefit in the end and save a bit.
 
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Have you considered looking into Audi All in as this includes warranty, you may benefit in the end and save a bit.
The all in doesn’t include gearbox, haldex, and brake fluid changes.
 
Audi does it every 2 years on the major service.
My car as had 3 services 2 inspection services and 1 oil change service but no mention of
a air filter change on the full print out of all the work Audi have done on the car from new .

Complete record
Says inspection with oil change plus dust and pollen filter x2
and oil change service x1

Plus All in inspection
Brake fluid service
Oil for all wheel drive coupling

I would of thought it would of been done as the car turns 4 year old in March
 
My car as had 3 services 2 inspection services and 1 oil change service but no mention of
a air filter change on the full print out of all the work Audi have done on the car from new .

Complete record
Says inspection with oil change plus dust and pollen filter x2
and oil change service x1

Plus All in inspection
Brake fluid service
Oil for all wheel drive coupling

I would of thought it would of been done as the car turns 4 year old in March
Pull it out and check. It will be pretty choked at 4 year old. It’s easy enough to change. Get a filter from ecp or dealer. If I remember right it’s 4 screws holding the housing and swap new filter in.
 
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If anyone knows what size attachments I'll need to release the drain plugs and whether that plug (& O-ring if applicable) needs replacing when the fluid is changed, that would be a great help. Trying to draw up a list of tools I'll need and the outlay involved.
 
If anyone knows what size attachments I'll need to release the drain plugs and whether that plug (& O-ring if applicable) needs replacing when the fluid is changed, that would be a great help. Trying to draw up a list of tools I'll need and the outlay involved.
you'll get the engine oil sump plug with a stubby flat head. The sump is plastic on the s3 as is the plug.
 
Take a look at this chaps diary/post logs. He's very thorough on the write-ups, part numbers etc on what he does to his S3 as well as other cars.
I'm sure he covered the servicing of the part's you are looking to do somewhere in there.
 
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Have you considered a reputable independent garage to do it and save loads? That way you get to assurance of having someone do it and the piece of mind it's been done properly.
I don't trust my local Audi dealership, as the last time they did and oil change they overfilled it and when I complained they just drained a bit out.

When you come to sell the FSH through an Inde should help as well!

Used my local German specialist for years without issue.

In fact they are changing the cambelt this week for £550, where Audi quoted nearly £1k.
 
Pull it out and check. It will be pretty choked at 4 year old. It’s easy enough to change. Get a filter from ecp or dealer. If I remember right it’s 4 screws holding the housing and swap new filter in.
Audi said it doesn't need changing until 60k I will change it myself as that seems way to long .
 
Audi said it doesn't need changing until 60k I will change it myself as that seems way to long .
Mines only been serviced at Audi and I’ve had 2 in 4 years. What schedule are they following? Seems different to mine. I have a late 2018 pre gpf car.
 
Mines only been serviced at Audi and I’ve had 2 in 4 years. What schedule are they following? Seems different to mine. I have a late 2018 pre gpf car.
Mines as only ever been serviced at the main dealer I bought it from .
Mines a 2019 car but surely the schedules can't be that different from a 2018 model
They said its due spark plugs at 40k and air filter at 60k i'am just going to fit a new one
for piece of mind .
 
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Mines as only ever been serviced at the main dealer I bought it from .
Mines a 2019 car but surely the schedules can't be that different from a 2018 model
They said its due spark plugs at 40k and air filter at 60k i'am just going to fit a new one
for piece of mind .
All a dirty filter will do is sap power and efficiency. Doubt it break anything. Take a pic of your dirty filter and share.
Was told last service spark plugs at 60 or 80k(can’t remember, getting old)as they are platinum :wink:
I’m sure dealers just make it up as they go along :wink:
 
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Take a look at this chaps diary/post logs. He's very thorough on the write-ups, part numbers etc on what he does to his S3 as well as other cars.
I'm sure he covered the servicing of the part's you are looking to do somewhere in there.

Ah, good share, thanks! I had seen that before but it must have been before I'd decided to look into doing it myself as I didn't pay too much attention to how useful it is.

Have you considered a reputable independent garage to do it and save loads? That way you get to assurance of having someone do it and the piece of mind it's been done properly.
I don't trust my local Audi dealership, as the last time they did and oil change they overfilled it and when I complained they just drained a bit out.

When you come to sell the FSH through an Inde should help as well!

Used my local German specialist for years without issue.

In fact they are changing the cambelt this week for £550, where Audi quoted nearly £1k.

I have and I got a quote from one near me with a good reputation. £750 for a major service which includes all oils, spark plugs and air filter. I've had a quote of £394 from Tom at Crewe Audi for all the gearbox, haldex, and diff oil and associated filters, plugs, washers. Engine oil has been changed 500 miles ago so that doesn't need doing yet, but I'll flush the brakes too while I'm at it. So all in I'm spending about £450 on oils and fluids - which means I could afford to buy VCDS (£250 if I'm not mistaken and I'm not missing anything like an ongoing subscription?) and still be just over the price the garage quoted me when I add spark plugs & air filter to that - then save around £200 each time I do this major service myself.

As for service history, yeah that's gonna be annoying. For me it's an imperfect system. I bought this with "full Audi service history" but in reality it's missed a few essentials there, like spark plugs should have been changed 10k ago. But that being said whoever I sell to (if I do) won't care about that side of things and will just want the "FSH", as I did.

I've got a 5-year loan for the car and after that my current plan is to convert it to a track car, so having the tools and being able to do the maintenance myself will be a huge bonus then. If I'm gonna invest I should do it now rather than later.
 
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All a dirty filter will do is sap power and efficiency. Doubt it break anything. Take a pic of your dirty filter and share.
Was told last service spark plugs at 60 or 80k(can’t remember, getting old)as they are platinum :wink:
I’m sure dealers just make it up as they go along :wink:
I will post a photo when I change the filter I can imagine it being pretty bad after nearly 34k .
 
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Cheapest VCDS is £225 for three VIN package. Basically that’s three separate cars for the life of the system. You can upgrade as well, and works across full VAG range. The ten slot version £299 is probably the best entry version as there’s only one payment away from lifetime use if you plan to change cars regularly. One thing to consider is the laptop you’re running it on. It doesn’t need to be high powered, but VCDS and sometimes the hardware (as in cable) require periodic updates. That’s all free of charge Ross-Tech.

One last thing, if you ever go down coding route, be very careful. You’re altering the programme on the ECU for any specific electronic part, so always copy coding long number before altering anything. NHN does this for a living so has probably seen it all.
 
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Cheapest VCDS is £225 for three VIN package. Basically that’s three separate cars for the life of the system. You can upgrade as well, and works across full VAG range. The ten slot version £299 is probably the best entry version as there’s only one payment away from lifetime use if you plan to change cars regularly. One thing to consider is the laptop you’re running it on. It doesn’t need to be high powered, but VCDS and sometimes the hardware (as in cable) require periodic updates. That’s all free of charge Ross-Tech.

One last thing, if you ever go down coding route, be very careful. You’re altering the programme on the ECU for any specific electronic part, so always copy coding long number before altering anything. NHN does this for a living so has probably seen it all.
Thanks for the info. Not so interested in coding as the consequences would probably scare me too much for now. I use my car for work and couldn't be without it due to my own error.

I'd rather not take the £75 extra hit for the 10 VIN version but it does seem the most sensible entry level so probably will. Especially as I want a track car and will probably go for an old TT/A3 for now until I've paid off the S3.
 
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I will post a photo when I change the filter I can imagine it being pretty bad after nearly 34k .
This was the difference between my existing and replacement. Unfortunately I'm not sure when it was last done as there's no record of it, but I'd imagine yours will be pretty similar by 35k.
 

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All a dirty filter will do is sap power and efficiency. Doubt it break anything. Take a pic of your dirty filter and share.
Was told last service spark plugs at 60 or 80k(can’t remember, getting old)as they are platinum :wink:
I’m sure dealers just make it up as they go along :wink:
Just changed the air filter at just over 34k I think Audis schedule of 60k was a touch too long going off how it looks :grimacing:
 

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Just changed the air filter at just over 34k I think Audis schedule of 60k was a touch too long going off how it looks :grimacing:
That dirty :dizzy:
Must have sapped 20bhp:tearsofjoy: will feel like a different car now
 
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Audi said it doesn't need changing until 60k I will change it myself as that seems way to long .

Yes, Audi also dont bother cleaning the Haldex oil filter as it "doesn't need doing" and look what neglecting that does to pretty much all haldex pumps. I simply dont trust them at all when it comes to this kind of thing. Given the cheap cost of air filters why wouldnt you just replace it every service? Makes no sense especially on a performance turbo car where having good air flow is somewhat critical.
 
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Yes, Audi also dont bother cleaning the Haldex oil filter as it "doesn't need doing" and look what neglecting that does to pretty much all haldex pumps. I simply dont trust them at all when it comes to this kind of thing. Given the cheap cost of air filters why wouldnt you just replace it every service? Makes no sense especially on a performance turbo car where having good air flow is somewhat critical.
I will be changing it at every service from now on
 
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