Gearbox/diff oil schedule ?

[SimonBUK]

Hi, just joined after purchasing a 2006 A4 1.8T Quattro Convertible.
It's done 110,000 miles so was just wondering whether the gearbox and diff oil should have been changed by now (it seems to have mostly a main dealer service), or when they should be changed ?
Cheers
Simon

 

[Charlie Farley]

Hi and welcome.
You will find all you ever need to know on this forum and specifics in this B7 section.

As with many things B7, unless you have any proof its been done and when then assume it needs doing.
B7's of all variant forms will benefit from Gearbox and diff oil services, so unless you have data to says is been done recently and at that milage, get it done.

Enjoy the car.

rob

 

[SimonBUK]

Thanks for the welcome

Yes, was planning to do it anyway, just wondered if it should have been done already in one of the services ?

Anything to watch out for on these quattros ?
Got the abs/traction control light come on and off a couple of times so I'm assuming a sensor or maybe wheel bearing ?
Had the same on a Mondeo and the wheel bearing had a magnetic strip built into it so when it started to move threw the warning lights up.

 

[Charlie Farley]

If this is your first Audi then I doubt you will have VCDS, always worth getting a scan to see what is going on at grass root level with the car, sometimes it's just a random fault that you can clear, if not it will enlighten you further to a fix.
Like all Audis and B7's , one allways has to be on alert whether its Quattro or 2wd , it's not the car as such but the age they are now.

 

[Charlie Farley]

A stamped up service book alone is not proof the car has been looked after, even if it's a spanking clean car.
At 100k and over miles there should be a good amount of receipts for work carried out on top of the basic service stamps, receipts are the history of the car and should follow it, anyone one can get the service book stamped.
my old bus has done 96k miles and has a mountain of paperwork, sometimes it is all about the paperwork with a car.

 

[SimonBUK]

Just bought a VAG specific reader so will see what it comes up with.

When you say 'whether it's 'Quattro or 2WD' do you mean that with age the 4WD may just become 2WD ? Does it just stop working but continue happily in 2WD ?
Nothing breaks/seizes/falls off - it just carries on regardless ?
Wasn't actually bothered about a Quattro version so not the end of the world if it is now 2WD, just found the car and it was a nice spec/colour,etc.

 

[SimonBUK]

Yes got a load of receipts too that go with the service book. Got a matching set of continentals and it was the only A4 conv I found where the cambelt wasn't 2/3 years overdue !!

 

[Charlie Farley]

Just bought a VAG specific reader so will see what it comes up with.

When you say 'whether it's 'Quattro or 2WD' do you mean that with age the 4WD may just become 2WD ? Does it just stop working but continue happily in 2WD ?
Nothing breaks/seizes/falls off - it just carries on regardless ?
Wasn't actually bothered about a Quattro version so not the end of the world if it is now 2WD, just found the car and it was a nice spec/colour,etc.

Just the nature of Quattro's and the extra running gear will mean they will have other areas that can become problematic over time and milage , that said both flavours and variants of B7 tend to share the same inherent issues accross many areas of the cars, cabs included, roof opening /closing probs is one to be aware of.
Electrics, suspension, engines...you need to be prepared for something to go pear-shaped, because it will, but they are a great car an worth a bit of hassle at the end of the day, thats life with an older car.

 

[Charlie Farley]

On the plus side, the Quattros are the better variant, some may disagree though.

 

[Charlie Farley]

All B7's Quattros are permanent 4wd drive , if either end stops working you will know about it, and you cant switch it off.

 

[NM07]

On the topic of gearbox oil, a lot of manufacturers will say the original fluid is good for the 'lifetime' of the car, so most people don't bother. But I've always found that changing the gearbox oil makes a big difference to how smooth and clean the shifts are. I've done it twice to my current B7, and the box feels fantastic, a big improvement over how it was when I purchased the car.

And on the subject of lubricants in general, I have had best success with synthetic oils that derive from a high quality ester base stock. For the engine oil I've tried Fuchs Titan Race Pro-S, and RedLine, both of which are motorsport grade oils with incredible anti wear characteristics. A lot of oils that claim they are 'fully' synthetic are just conventional oils with some additives in, and barely qualify.

My previous B7 was a TFSI (BUL), which (as most do) burnt a decent amount of oil, but after switching to the ester oil consumed a lot less. Although on my current B7, which is a TDI (BRE), which I'm running the RedLine in, doesn't burn a drop between changes. I also use RedLine MTL for the gearbox, and it's buttery smooth and feels much better than the cheaper conventional oils.

 

[NM07]

And for what it's worth, in my opinion (may not be shared by others!), you got the best engine out of the petrol turbo A4's. The 1.8t is bulletproof and doesn't share lots of the design flaws of the 2.0t.

 

[SimonBUK]

On the topic of gearbox oil, a lot of manufacturers will say the original fluid is good for the 'lifetime' of the car, so most people don't bother. But I've always found that changing the gearbox oil makes a big difference to how smooth and clean the shifts are. I've done it twice to my current B7, and the box feels fantastic, a big improvement over how it was when I purchased the car.

I've just been out in the car today and the gear changes do feel a little notchy so I'm definitely going to change all the fluids.

 

[Charlie Farley]

Pics of your cab would be good, we all like pics.

 

[Charlie Farley]

And whatever you do, avoid the temptation to start doing OEM mods, it's a very slippery and expensive slope as many will agree.

 

[SimonBUK]

If this is your first Audi then I doubt you will have VCDS, always worth getting a scan to see what is going on at grass root level with the car, sometimes it's just a random fault that you can clear, if not it will enlighten you further to a fix.
Like all Audis and B7's , one allways has to be on alert whether its Quattro or 2wd , it's not the car as such but the age they are now.

Well I cleared the codes and started again. Came up with no current faults but still have the TC and ABS light on the dash.
I got the OBDeleven device after a recommendation when I had my TT.

 

[Charlie Farley]

Well I cleared the codes and started again. Came up with no current faults but still have the TC and ABS light on the dash.
I got the OBDeleven device after a recommendation when I had my TT.

OBD is ok and many rave about it, but VCDS works so much better and is trusted by most users to be the most accurate and reliable diags.
If you have those error lamps on then there will be an issue with a code, its unlikely to just be an illuminated lamp.

what code did you have last time around?

 

[SimonBUK]

And whatever you do, avoid the temptation to start doing OEM mods, it's a very slippery and expensive slope as many will agree.

Oh yes, I just maintain them now and try and keep them running !!

 

[Charlie Farley]

Your ABS/TC could be down to several issues, an initial error code will always be a preferred starting point otherwise you could be just taking random stabs at it without success.
Could be a sensor or a cable fault or both, could be another electrical issue throwing an error, B7's are good at that, with small random electrical faults causing havoc in the system.

 

[Charlie Farley]

As we always say, if in doubt, scan it out...

 

[SimonBUK]

OBD is ok and many rave about it, but VCDS works so much better and is trusted by most users to be the most accurate and reliable diags.
If you have those error lamps on then there will be an issue with a code, its unlikely to just be an illuminated lamp.

what code did you have last time around?

Oh no, not another code reader I've got to buy
I started with a TorquePro on my TT but knew it was a bit cheap, then upgraded to the OBD.

I'll check the history of the previous scan, still trying to work out how to read it all

 

[Charlie Farley]

OBD will still give you a code to work from , any ideas on what it was etc, VCDS is just much better and for coding in options etc, but personal preference really .
Whatever works the best for you.

 

[SimonBUK]

Pics of your cab would be good, we all like pics.

Obligatory petrol station forecourt shot after filling up for the journey home.
Took me a walk, two late night trains, an overnight Megabus coach and a lift into the countryside to view it, I wasn't going to leave empty handed as I couldn't face the Megabus return journey .
Fortunately I think it's turned out well.

 

[Charlie Farley]

Looks great
And from Compo and Cleggy neck of the woods too.

 

[Charlie Farley]

And that has to be one of the cleanest fuel station pumps and forecourts ive seen for years, spanking clean.

 

[SimonBUK]

OBD will still give you a code to work from , any ideas on what it was etc, VCDS is just much better and for coding in options etc, but personal preference really .
Whatever works the best for you.

Ok looked at the previous scan before I cleared, quite a few but probably years worth I guess, I think a load have been triggered by a battery disconnect and a jump start - the only ones I see relevant are -

00290 - Static - Left rear wheel speed ABS sensor
01826 - Intermittent - Steering Angle Sensor

 

[NM07]

In my experience OBDEleven does at least 90% of what VCDS can do, if not more. Having used both, I think the only place that VCDS is a level above is that it comes with label files that give more comprehensive titles to the data channels when viewing live data. If you have OBDEleven @SimonBUK that should do you fine chap

 

[NM07]

Obligatory petrol station forecourt shot after filling up for the journey home.
Took me a walk, two late night trains, an overnight Megabus coach and a lift into the countryside to view it, I wasn't going to leave empty handed as I couldn't face the Megabus return journey .
Fortunately I think it's turned out well.

View attachment 266838

View attachment 266839

Lovely looking motor chap, nice and clean and straight judging by the pics. Just so you know, that's a B6, not a B7, biggest giveaway is the headlights.

 

[NM07]

Ok looked at the previous scan before I cleared, quite a few but probably years worth I guess, I think a load have been triggered by a battery disconnect and a jump start - the only ones I see relevant are -

00290 - Static - Left rear wheel speed ABS sensor
01826 - Intermittent - Steering Angle Sensor

Based off that scan, it's likely the steering angle sensor code was probably logged if/when the steering wheel was last removed. The clockspring that measures rotation takes a few full turns to reset and then the warning lamp will go out.

I reckon the only code that needs an actual part replacing is probably the ABS sensor. Usually cheap to purchase and easy to replace, hopefully once you've done that and cleared the codes you should be light free

 

[SimonBUK]

Lovely looking motor chap, nice and clean and straight judging by the pics. Just so you know, that's a B6, not a B7, biggest giveaway is the headlights.

Oh ok cheers - but of an Audi virgin here !!

 

[SimonBUK]

I reckon the only code that needs an actual part replacing is probably the ABS sensor. Usually cheap to purchase and easy to replace, hopefully once you've done that and cleared the codes you should be light free

Any particular brands/places to look for ? Or brands to avoid ?!

 

[Charlie Farley]

00290 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Rear Left (G46): Signal Outside Specifications​

00290 - ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Rear Left (G46): Electrical Fault in Circuit​

Possible Causes​

• Open Circuit in Wiring from/to ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Rear Left (G46)
• ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Rear Left (G46) faulty

Possible Solutions​

• Check Wiring from/to ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Rear Left (G46)
• Check ABS Wheel Speed Sensor Rear Left (G46)

Possible Symptoms​

• Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) active

Possible Causes​

• Temporary Supply Voltage Interruption
• Steering Angle Sensor (G85) faulty
• Steering Column Control Module (J527) faulty

Possible Solutions​

• Perform Steering Angle Sensor (G85) Adaptation
  • See Vehicle specific Diagnostic Procedures for Details
• Check/Replace Steering Angle Sensor (G85)
• Check/Replace Steering Column Control Module (J527)

Special Notes​

• When found in Audi A4/S4/RS4/Cabriolet (8E/8H): Brake Electronics, these are the most likely causes if the Basic Setting fails or the Fault comes back shortly after clearing. See TPI 0984403 for further details.
  • MY 2001: Steering Column Control Module (J527) was the most common fault
  • MY 2002: Steering Angle Sensor (G85) was the most common fault
  • MY 2003/2004: Experience has shown the Steering Angle Sensor (G85) were the only cause, Steering Column Control Module (J527) were not defective yet.
  • MY 2006/2007: Steering Column Control Module (J527) was the most common fault

 

[SimonBUK]

I guess the first thing to do is whip the wheel off and see if theres anything obvious on the left rear ?

 

[Charlie Farley]

yep, the abs sensor cable is normally the first thing to go, work back from there.

 

[Charlie Farley]

If you disconnected the battery or had a supply problem the steering wheel angle sensor will reset itself after a straight line and a few full rotations of the steering wheel or you can just do it manually.

 

[SimonBUK]

If you disconnected the battery or had a supply problem the steering wheel angle sensor will reset itself after a straight line and a few full rotations of the steering wheel or you can just do it manually.

Previous owner changed the battery and then went flat so got jumped or removed to be charged so could have been that. I've cleared the codes now so I'll see if that one comes back

 

[SimonBUK]

Well it did come back !!

Any recommendations of where to buy a speed sensor from ?
Genuine or aftermarket OK ?