I have an A4, 2004 model, When I start and set off car seems ok ish, as the throttle response is a little slow, then after a short time I get the ESP light and a flashing glowplug light, going straight in to limp mode and wont rev past 1,100 rpm,if i turn off engine and restart, it runs ok, but sluggish throttle again, before dropping in to limp mode again soon after.
have heard that it could be break sensor, or a sensor on the bulkhead inside engine bay, also break lights, but have recently replaced bulbs. I always have headlight warning light as switched from halogen to LED's recently, something to do with the resistance i think
can anyone help?
Hey Para! I know it’s been a little time since you posted, didn’t know if you got fixed or see if I can help. Just a few bits of caution… Lol… I take it having an issue with glow plugs, it is a diesel, and I have not owned one of those in 35 years. Lol. But I know there are some things you can look at and most of them are pretty expensive, but as we have all learned with any Audi regardless of year or where in the world you live, if there is a sensor bad, it can trigger limp mode. Hell, a certain low fluid can trigger it. I had an issue where I would get the ESP but the EPC light would come on in the car would either not start or take 20 or 30 tries or if it did start it ran so rough in the EPC light would be on I had to cut it off. That turned out to be the two 614 (upgraded to 644 )fuel pump relay’s under the EPU. It does not sound like the issue you were having.
First and foremost, would take it to be scanned, or by a scanner, which you can really get some inexpensive ones that at least read the codes and clear the codes and they can actually do live data streaming, but they can’t do things like compare where the computer says things should be in where they actually are in live time. But for the purposes of just seeing what the check engine light codes are, any would work. I know the codes are a little bit different here in the states, but whether with a VAG or OBD II scanner to see any of the check engine light codes. Can help pinpoint it. But I do know with glow plugs especially if your glow plug in the camera is flashing that there is either an issue with the glow plug itself, with the blow plug pressure sensor, or the controller/timer. Not 100% sure where that is but I would imagine that it’s somewhere around the center of the engine bay similar to a distributor? The key on that while the car is running, is that should be ticking. Obviously that is sending the signal to the glow plug when it should be on, and if it is not ticking the actual controller/time or needs to be replaced and that could solve it.
With the ESP, that being the traction control there could be something with the ABS or with the brake system, sometimes it is just a brake pressure sensor though for that. Could be a speed sensor as well or could be a sensor or the vacuum pump is bad. Sensors are easy to change for the most part and relatively inexpensive but you just don’t want to do what I’ve done in the past is where you buy seven of them because you keep poking in the dark. Another possibility is that it could be the throttle pedal. I know a few people of had the same issue you’re having and it was that, when I had an issue it really wasn’t, I’m not sure if resetting that is the same there as it is in the states but I can let you know what we do here. At least to try it. 1. Turn the key to on, but the engine off. 2. Press the Excelerator all the way to the floor and hold it for 30 seconds. And here’s were to message I’ve heard different. On one, 3. Just let the car sit for another 3 to 5 minutes with the key off and do not touch the Excelerator or break and just give the car time to reset itself. -or- I have also heard that once you turn the key to on but engine off, press and hold the Excelerator for 30 seconds, turn the key to off, keeping your foot on the Excelerator to the floor, recycle the key back to on but engine off, release the gas pedal, turn the key to off. Again let the car sit and reset. If that does not work, again codes tell you the best starting point, but you could buy a new Excelerator pedal, although I would probably save that for very last. There’s only three bolts that hold it on it’s all fly by wire and I think it is around 130 pounds give or take. He could simply be a speed sensor. Wish I could absolutely affect your ABS in the light come on, or a brake pressure sensor. All are relatively inexpensive and pretty easy for a lot of people to do even those that don’t have a lot of experience with working on cars at all.
But before you do anything, I would either get it scanned by a friend, or an automotive store, I know in the states they’ll do it for free, or buy one yourself but that’s gonna give you the best starting point of what sensors are bad or what area to really focus on.
But again some of the codes you might get as well our a P13D6 which is a sensor of internal pressure on a cylinder, so a pressure sensor which that could be either the controller/timer if it’s not ticking, or a bad glow plug, or just replace that sensor. Could also be a P0 2370 which is a turbo charge boost sensor circuit low. At least in the states anything with a turbo charger it could simply be the diverter valve is stuck or not properly functioning.
But if you’re getting a P13D6 that’s definitely a code associated with a glow plug where it could be a glow plug pressure sensor, could be the glow plug itself, or it could be the controller/timer - and again when the car is idling you should hear that tick, or click, repeatedly. Like click click click click click click. If it is not clicking, is that controllers last time or this bad. Can you see if there is a P0 2370 which is a turbo charge boost sensor. Others that it could be is a brake pressure sensor which again would explain the ABS. But I got that sometimes even when it mine was the fuel pump relay, with the EPC light on. It could be the throttle pedal or the throttle position sensor or to be a speed sensor or even a vacuum pump or vacuum pump sensor. Vacuum pump or vacuum pump sensor could certainly make the ABS light come on since that is the round almost like a squished cylinder, typically on or even with the brake master cylinder. But it also creates the vacuum for the whole car. And every single one of these sensors can absolutely put the car in limp mode. That’s why it doesn’t sound mechanical to me because you, just like me, we can turn the car off, or even sometimes take the negative cable off the post of the battery let it sit and reset, and we can start a pack up and it works again it’s given a chance for some of those systems to reset, other times it takes a minute for a bad sensor to trigger it again. But by putting a scanner on it it’ll tell you what sensor is throwing the code or if the EP US throwing a code and it can allow you to focusing on that one area to fix as opposed to having 12 different ones. I know this is super long and I apologize for being long and I apologize if I overexplained stuff that you already know or even know 95% off. I just know whenever I had an issue with my Audi and different issue after different issue it was hard to find information or, like if you look up on web MD that you have a headache, they give you the worst outcomes, and a lot of the online places that are not Audi owners, they give you worst case scenarios that are the most expensive. And nine times out of 10 it’s not that expensive stuff, it’s the easier stuff. wish you the best of luck and I hope I helped!
