Wheel wobble at 75+ MPH

Matt275

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Hi,

2006 A4 A Line BRD 170 63k miles

I seem to have an annoying steering wobble, but only noticeable at 75+ MPH and it doesn't seem to go away, as in I can't "drive through" it. It does improve when going round a long sweeping bend, but then when straight again it comes back.

I had all 4 tyres changed / balanced recently, but the car had this issue before that.

The tech at work has gone through all the suspension components with a bar and can't see / find anything or any play that would cause the wobble.

When I'm dry steering in a car park, I feel a high pitch vibration on the steering wheel, and wonder if it's something to do with OSF corner, but what?
All 4 wheels / new tyres balanced up...and nothing visually obvious.

Any suggestions? Standard suspension set up, wheels and Michelin PS5 tyres - as said, it had the same issue before changing the tyres....
 
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Hi,

2006 A4 A Line BRD 170 63k miles

I seem to have an annoying steering wobble, but only noticeable at 75+ MPH and it doesn't seem to go away, as in I can't "drive through" it. It does improve when going round a long sweeping bend, but then when straight again it comes back.

I had all 4 tyres changed / balanced recently, but the car had this issue before that.

The tech at work has gone through all the suspension components with a bar and can't see / find anything or any play that would cause the wobble.

When I'm dry steering in a car park, I feel a high pitch vibration on the steering wheel, and wonder if it's something to do with OSF corner, but what?
All 4 wheels / new tyres balanced up...and nothing visually obvious.

Any suggestions? Standard suspension set up, wheels and Michelin PS5 tyres - as said, it had the same issue before changing the tyres....
Tracking and alignment? Obviously wheel balance, which only involves placing weights on the inner rims and affects only the wheel itself, is not the same as tracking and camber alignment.
 
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I went to ATS asking for tracking, but when I told them the issue, they said it didn't sound like tracking was needed, and the car would still be the same afterwards...
 
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It sounds like classic tracking to me; in any case it's not that expensive, always worthwhile, at the very least for tyre wear, and can do no harm to eliminate it. Since you didn't have done you can't right now :)
 
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could simply be that the inner tie rods are worn, and with how well they are hidden the only way of finding out if they ae at fault is to jack the car up wheel off and sticking your hand into that space and physically check for movement on the link, there should be none.
 
But why would alignment cause a wobble? If it pulls to one side yes, but a wobble?
It is also the same, maybe a tad worse if I put the car into neutral at 75 mph, manual 6 speed.....
 
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could simply be that the inner tie rods are worn, and with how well they are hidden the only way of finding out if they ae at fault is to jack the car up wheel off and sticking your hand into that space and physically check for movement on the link, there should
The guy at work (who is also very strict with MOT's) checked everything, but no play....
We did see about an inch of corrosion build up (only just remembered this) on the inside of the OSF brake disc....but no wobbles under braking, so I don't think warped disc either...

 
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Bad tracking or alignment doesn't 'pull to one side'. That usually only happens when you apply brakes that out of alignment. It can however very much cause wobble or pronounced vibration, at least in my experience, particularly at high speeds; bearing in mind what your definition of 'wobble' may mean. If I was you I'd get it done all the same. You could also check underbody fittings such as engine and gearbox cover and if they are present, which are there for aerodynamic drag reasons not protection.

Just to add the number of times too, these chains like ATS, Kwikfit etc. have insisted something is something, despite me telling them otherwise, I've lost count of, since I don't go there anymore. A case in point was an A/C regas KF stuffed up recently, on a perfectly working system before. They said the compressors gone, even though it was brand new. He opened the bonnett and said 'there the clutch isn't working!'; 'II said it's clutchless , always on with variable pistons inside. The problem is you've filled it with the wrong quantity of gas'. I then took it to my local, had it refilled properly; perfect A/C since.
 
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Check the inner steering track rods for play , it doesnt need a lot play to have a massive effect.
I’ve had the same problem for ages having replaced everything else with no improvement it only left the inner track rod joint.
Jack the car up with the weight of the wheels , get some to wobble the steering small amounts side to side whilst you hold the rod at the rack end , it should be tight no sloppy movement or noises.

If it does feel really looose and you can hear a knock or tapping sound it is the inner rod joint worn out.

I replaced mine at the weekend and all the issues stopped all together, no misbehaving steering on rattles when going over small bump and cat’s eyes, no wheel wobble or vibrating.

Worth a look chap.
 
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Mine had done 70k and were a bin job so mileages over that will most certainly an issue with joint wear
 
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I had my wheels rebalanced with no change and the tracking checked and that was fine Still had the problem
If the track rods are worn either inner or outer or both then the small amount of play becomes magnified at speed and you get a wobbling sensation in the steering, the faster you go the more apparent it becomes .
Less likely to feel it when corner as the load on the joint has increased to point where the free play is being forced sideways, but in a straight line it will be very apparent.
 
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My near side was not too bad but the offside was really loose , an easy cheap fix too.
Image
 
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Wow thank you all, gives me an area to at least zoom in on. So much on the internet never seems to conclude or be "Fixed it"
I will definitely put up the resolution...should I find it....
 
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Just a process of elimination really . When you have checked everything else twice and it is fine then it narrows down the point of failure a heck of a lot.
Best of luck chap.
 
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Would bad engine mounts also be a possibility? I know one of mine is leaking/leaked and there’s a judder when you come to a stop at a junction or lights, but theres also a small judder when driving at about 7pm-h, not constant but but sort of on/off resonating.
 
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Would bad engine mounts also be a possibility? I know one of mine is leaking/leaked and there’s a judder when you come to a stop at a junction or lights, but theres also a small judder when driving at about 7pm-h, not constant but but sort of on/off resonating.
I do have a leaking mount yes, it the one on the passenger side....has leaked a reddish fluid on the front anti roll bar...
 
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you would get more engine vibration than the wheel wobble effect but anything is possible, when I had engine mount failure the nearside mount was a bin job and a lot lower height than the offside, same red hyd fluid everywhere, I cant say it ever had the effect of wheel wobble, maybe more general front end vibration and shaking, but some symptoms can be masked by others.
If you can feel it through the steering then that would tend to indicate the steering and linkages.
 
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Agree with Rob, mines more a general vibration and not felt through the steering wheel. Really should get round to doing the engine mount
 
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I wouldn't ignore engine mounts that are clearly leaking or perished, as soon as it's spotted they'll get replaced. There is absolutely no reason to leave them as they aren't that expensive. It also helps keeping the engine movement down to an absolute minimum, thus resulting in a better driving experience overall. And from memory when I was viewing these b7's most had the front engine mount perished, which is just a foam/rubber insert that is cheap as chips...
 
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