Heaters S3 8V

[gazcallyt]

Morning Guys,

Over the last couple of weeks and only when the car has stood overnight, the heaters take around a good 10 mins to get warm, usually they are warm within 2 mins, with heating set to 21, the fans set in auto with AC off, the system will blow the fans on low, when it thinks it gets to temp the blowers get faster, but the the air is still cold, I can leave the car all day and let the coolant temp drop right down, and it will blow heat straight away, only when its been stood overnight the problem seems to occur,

Things Tried and Tested.
Coolant Bottle was swapped ages ago for a non silica one. so not bag burst, well that I know of, with coolant swap, been working fine for over 5 months with this done, until recently.
All temp sensors tested on vagcom, all as they should be, even though on the journey in this morning they were reading 6.5 degress before it got warm, thank god for heated seats.
No Faults on the control module.
Coolant temp hits 72 degress within 3 to 4 mins of driving, and around 92 after 10 without hard acceleration, so thermostat seems ok.

Things not tried, inlet outlet pipe to heater matrix temp touch test, to see if the coolant is actually circulating.

Which of the Vagcom tests, is the one that opens/shuts the flap for hot and cold air, went through all the tests, but it was blowing how then, so couldnt really tell.

Any pointers welcome.

Cheers

 

[J0N]

Sounds like you’ve covered most things other than the touch test on the heater matrix. The only pointers to try (if it’s the same as the S3) is the coolant shut off valve on the battery side of the engine and check if the system is free of air.
From what you’ve said it seems unlikely that you have an airlock but it’s worth noting that these are a pia to bleed properly and should be force/vac fed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[gazcallyt]

Sounds like you’ve covered most things other than the touch test on the heater matrix. The only pointers to try (if it’s the same as the S3) is the coolant shut off valve on the battery side of the engine and check if the system is free of air.
From what you’ve said it seems unlikely that you have an airlock but it’s worth noting that these are a pia to bleed properly and should be force/vac fed.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Cheers for that, will take a peak.