n75 valve replacement.

barters3

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I have just been to TSR performance in bridgwater as i wanted a diagnostic run on my s3 (210bhp), i thought that my maf might have been knackerd.
As it happens the maf was fine and no other fault codes were logged.
I had a power diagnostic done on the rolling road which shows the engine producing 194bhp, i thought this sounded about right for a 2001 car with 92000 0n the clock. the engineer said that the boost was slightly lumpy at at full boost and that it could be due to the n75 valve or possibly the the turbo actuator??
It drives fine so im not that bothered but would anybody recomend changing the n75 valve?
 
I changed mine to the J version last week due to a lumpy boost post remap. It certainly pulls better but I think the initial problem is still there although not as bad as it was. Still trying to get to the bottom of it.

they're £51 from dealers and take about 5 minutes to swap out
 
what is the difference between the normal valve and the the j version.
 
the j valce allows boost to build for slightly longer in therory(delayed signal) but ive tried it twiice on mycar and i actually lost 2 psi of boost. i have a BRAND NEW noraml n75 for sale if it any good........
 
i think i would rather replace it with the standard valve, im not in a mega rush to change it because i cannot actually notice anything wrong with the way my car runs it was just a suggestion from the engineer who looked at my car. how much would you want for it?
 
i agree that why im keeping standard but bearing in mind there alot of people who have j valves and have had psi increase with noiticeable difference. well it cost me about £58.00 new pm me with a offer mate
 
doesn't the s3 come with a j valve on it as standard????,this is what i was led to believe,as i have just upgraded mine today to a j on my remapped a3 quattro
 
can anyone confirm whether an s3 comes with a j valve as standard, if not as my engine is only standard is it definatly worth upgrading.
cheers audi turbo, i will pm you if i decide to change it.
 
hi.again,as i stated before,have a remapped 2000 a3 quattro...fitted the j valve today...love it...sure the s3 comes with this as standard!!!!!!
 
"J" valve is not standard on the S3. If you look at it the pipe connections are orientated differently as it's from a different vehicle in the VAG range. When fitted to the S3 electrical connector points in the opposite direction.

Before replacing things, I'd log the N75 duty cycle before swapping. Of course you can just go out and buy one if you want.
 
Thanks for the info. I take it that i would need vagcom to do that? Are you saying that the valve on the s3 would be different to the a3 or not?
 
hi there. im new to this site and the audi scene.
i have just had my a3 2000 1.8red t chipped, i replaced the tempreture sender swich b4 this was done.
after having it done, it seems to over boost! to b honest its ******* me right off!!

i have just today recieved the brown n75 valve as apposed to the black 1, and a new maf, but the maf was wrong, so sending it back!
any way...to my point, now i have put that valve on, the car runs worse....just wondering if any 1 can help...PLEASE!!!!
O and sorry for adding on this chat, but i dont know how to create my own yet!
thanks guys!!
 
Originally I believe Audi fitted the "C" version, then went to "F". Same reaction time I think. I also think they are brown, not that it means anything.

J is from something like an A4, connections pointin in the wrong direction.
H is from something else in the audi range. A4 cab I think. Avoid like the plague. Awesome boost, but limp mode every time. Connections on this one ate the correct way round.

Cornish, if your car was fine and now it overboosts after the remap, then it's a crap map. Pure and simple. Go talk to the guys who fitted it.
 
the guys did my last car and it was fine mate.
yes the 1 i bouhgt was a "j"
the guy that sold me it wont take it back!
so now going to buy an "f"
also, i changed the temp sender swich...now the temp sits rele low, ie 70 ish?? any ideas?
also my idle rolls up and down when stationary....
got the problems hey!
thanks!
 
can anyone give me a quick dummies guide to fitting one of these? Ive just ran a check on mine and its coming up faulty. Thanks
 
very very easy mate,all self explanitory,just get the engine cover off and you can see it,2mins max,if you change to the j valve though..you need to copy the length of the pipes and not the way the plug faces
 

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