Oil advice and recommendations here
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Hi
We had some tested a while ago, if I remember correctly and it was okay, it met the specs it claimed (cheaper oils don't always do that), but it didn't exceed the specs.
If you look at something like the Mobil ESP, it meets a lot of specifications. In order to do that, it will exceed the requirements of certain specs, to cover the others. For example, the 507 spec will mean that it's suitable for 20k/2 years and safe to use with the DPF, but by being C2 as well as C3 (the standard requirement for 507), in theory you can achieve better fuel economy.
Also, when it comes to basestocks, people assume that synthetic is synthetic and there are no variances in that. The top synthetics are group 5, ester oils, followed by group 4 PAO oils (proper, lab-made synthetics) and then the group 3 hydrocracked oils. Hydrocracking is a process that starts off with mineral oil, it's then heated, hydrogen is introduced, a reaction takes place and the oil is modified sufficiently that it is then sold as synthetic. There are different quality levels of hydrocracked basestocks, some are quite basic, some are really good and can be better than the PAO synthetics. Mobil 1 used to be a PAO oil, but it changed to a group 3 in the last few years. Someone tested a can of the old PAO oil against the new group 3 and the results showed the new oil was the better one. The thing is, those basestocks are only going to be used in the oil companies own oils, not in the oils that they are producing for other companies.
As well as using the basic option with basestocks and different additive packages to meet the different specifications, there is also the issue of quality control. One oil company tested about 20 different 5w-40 oils a couple of years ago (not ones that we deal with). About half of them were in grade, but others were not 5w-40s, one of them was a 20w-40 (almost a 20w-50). That was because quality control takes time and money, so when you are trying to produce a cheap oil, quality control is often something that is overlooked.
Cheers
Tim
We had some tested a while ago, if I remember correctly and it was okay, it met the specs it claimed (cheaper oils don't always do that), but it didn't exceed the specs.
If you look at something like the Mobil ESP, it meets a lot of specifications. In order to do that, it will exceed the requirements of certain specs, to cover the others. For example, the 507 spec will mean that it's suitable for 20k/2 years and safe to use with the DPF, but by being C2 as well as C3 (the standard requirement for 507), in theory you can achieve better fuel economy.
Also, when it comes to basestocks, people assume that synthetic is synthetic and there are no variances in that. The top synthetics are group 5, ester oils, followed by group 4 PAO oils (proper, lab-made synthetics) and then the group 3 hydrocracked oils. Hydrocracking is a process that starts off with mineral oil, it's then heated, hydrogen is introduced, a reaction takes place and the oil is modified sufficiently that it is then sold as synthetic. There are different quality levels of hydrocracked basestocks, some are quite basic, some are really good and can be better than the PAO synthetics. Mobil 1 used to be a PAO oil, but it changed to a group 3 in the last few years. Someone tested a can of the old PAO oil against the new group 3 and the results showed the new oil was the better one. The thing is, those basestocks are only going to be used in the oil companies own oils, not in the oils that they are producing for other companies.
As well as using the basic option with basestocks and different additive packages to meet the different specifications, there is also the issue of quality control. One oil company tested about 20 different 5w-40 oils a couple of years ago (not ones that we deal with). About half of them were in grade, but others were not 5w-40s, one of them was a 20w-40 (almost a 20w-50). That was because quality control takes time and money, so when you are trying to produce a cheap oil, quality control is often something that is overlooked.
Cheers
Tim
Hard to compare to UK prices as I'm in Denmark. Approx. £85 for oil, a Mann filter and labor is a really nice price here.
Interesting to know the hydrocracked mineral group 3 can out perform a synthetic poa group 4 , surely the additive package must be taken into account ?
As for Mobil 1 ESP to be C2 spec and achieve the extra mpg required to meet the spec is easy as it must be thinner at 100°C , most 507.00 are a thick 30 grade and are usually 12 Centistokes as is Mobil 1 ESP .
So how does it achieve it , the unusual high quality of it's group 3 and or additive package ?
I thought with C2 you loose some HTHS , so I'm not sure how it achieves a dual specification ?
As for Mobil 1 ESP to be C2 spec and achieve the extra mpg required to meet the spec is easy as it must be thinner at 100°C , most 507.00 are a thick 30 grade and are usually 12 Centistokes as is Mobil 1 ESP .
So how does it achieve it , the unusual high quality of it's group 3 and or additive package ?
I thought with C2 you loose some HTHS , so I'm not sure how it achieves a dual specification ?
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This tool is quite good for comparing specs.
https://online.lubrizol.com/relperftool/pc.html
Basically comparing the 507 and C2, the 507 exceeds the C2 in all areas other than fuel economy, but the HTHS for C2 is equal to or in excess of 2.9, 3.5 for the 507. The ESP has a HTHS of 3.58. Mobil mentions 'Enhanced Frictional Properties' without giving details, so I would assume that is how they meet the C2 and 507. The Shell ECT 0w-30 C2/C3 also meets the C2 and 507 spec, so it's an achievable thing.
Yes, changing the additive package in oils will affect how it behaves, probably as much as the basestock, but the problem is the additive pack isn't really mentioned on the label. People read 5w-30 and forget the rest. I get so many calls where someone will want an oil for a VW for example and they will have seen the Fuchs XTR, which is a 5w-30 synthetic, but meets Ford specs rather than VW. I tell them it's not suitable as it doesn't meet the VW specs, they then say 'But it's a 5w-30 synthetic', I then explain about the DPF and long life servicing, but I know they think I'm just trying to sell them a more expensive oil. So many people do not get how much an additive pack affects the oil.
Cheers
Tim
https://online.lubrizol.com/relperftool/pc.html
Basically comparing the 507 and C2, the 507 exceeds the C2 in all areas other than fuel economy, but the HTHS for C2 is equal to or in excess of 2.9, 3.5 for the 507. The ESP has a HTHS of 3.58. Mobil mentions 'Enhanced Frictional Properties' without giving details, so I would assume that is how they meet the C2 and 507. The Shell ECT 0w-30 C2/C3 also meets the C2 and 507 spec, so it's an achievable thing.
Yes, changing the additive package in oils will affect how it behaves, probably as much as the basestock, but the problem is the additive pack isn't really mentioned on the label. People read 5w-30 and forget the rest. I get so many calls where someone will want an oil for a VW for example and they will have seen the Fuchs XTR, which is a 5w-30 synthetic, but meets Ford specs rather than VW. I tell them it's not suitable as it doesn't meet the VW specs, they then say 'But it's a 5w-30 synthetic', I then explain about the DPF and long life servicing, but I know they think I'm just trying to sell them a more expensive oil. So many people do not get how much an additive pack affects the oil.
Cheers
Tim
You must go home with a headache , lol .
So in the real world , what's the mpg saving going to be ?
It much reminds of 507.00 being superior to Fords WSS-M913-D except fuel economy .
But what loss of mpg is there if 507.00 was used ?
So in the real world , what's the mpg saving going to be ?
It much reminds of 507.00 being superior to Fords WSS-M913-D except fuel economy .
But what loss of mpg is there if 507.00 was used ?
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Hi
Real world? Very little difference. I can't find it now, but if I remember correctly, C2 should allow an engine to achieve 5% or 10% better fuel economy than a 15w-40 oil. As the C2 oils are thinner than a 15w-40, you would expect better fuel economy anyway, but the C2 oils go a little further than C3.
Yes, the 507 could be used in place of the 913D oils, as the fuel economy difference will be pretty minimal.
Cheers
Tim
Real world? Very little difference. I can't find it now, but if I remember correctly, C2 should allow an engine to achieve 5% or 10% better fuel economy than a 15w-40 oil. As the C2 oils are thinner than a 15w-40, you would expect better fuel economy anyway, but the C2 oils go a little further than C3.
Yes, the 507 could be used in place of the 913D oils, as the fuel economy difference will be pretty minimal.
Cheers
Tim
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Making alot of sense as serviced a Ford C Max recently and interval is 1 yr / 12.5K and they'd done nearly 14K .
The 507.00 LongLife would be in far better condition near the end and offer better protection even if it doesn't have a dpf .
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Hi
Yes, I tend to recommend something other than the Ford 913 spec oils once a car is out of warranty. Under warranty, keep Ford happy and use the approved stuff, but as the 913 oils are not particularly special, there is usually a better choice.
Cheers
Tim
Yes, I tend to recommend something other than the Ford 913 spec oils once a car is out of warranty. Under warranty, keep Ford happy and use the approved stuff, but as the 913 oils are not particularly special, there is usually a better choice.
Cheers
Tim
Interesting discussion Tim. The fact that the Fuchs Titan Race Pro C3 isn't 507.00 rated does raise some questions for me. I am sure as regards engine protection the Fuchs oil is very good but where does it lack behind a 507.00 oil ? . Strictly speaking if you were using an oil in a car that wasn't VAG approved that would potentially have warranty implications on a newer car.
How does this oil stand up in terms of extended drain intervals because it doesn't mention anything about being a long life oil.
Looking at the MSDS it seems there is a good amount of molybdenum dialkyldithiocarbamate in this oil.
http://schaefferoil.de/sheets/praesentationen/factmoly_en.pdf
Given the Fuchs Titan Race Pro C3 should have 10-20% top group 5 ester oil basestock it should be excellent and beyond 507.00 spec which is high quality to begin with , extended drain suitable too .
The reason why it isn't 507.00 listed is to gain approval it costs ££££ as this is not a bulk sold oil with a niche market the profit margin wouldn't make sense to gain VW approval .
Much the same for the other Fuch Racing Esters Pro S and Pro R which aren't C3 .
As far as I know Fuchs is the only Race C3 suitable for track not that strictly you need C3 Mr A with your absent dpf .
How much better it is over a good 507.00 we don't know without new and used sample lab analysis as I have one piece of strong evidence that a 507.00 oil does indeed have some top group 5 ester in it...
The reason why it isn't 507.00 listed is to gain approval it costs ££££ as this is not a bulk sold oil with a niche market the profit margin wouldn't make sense to gain VW approval .
Much the same for the other Fuch Racing Esters Pro S and Pro R which aren't C3 .
As far as I know Fuchs is the only Race C3 suitable for track not that strictly you need C3 Mr A with your absent dpf .
How much better it is over a good 507.00 we don't know without new and used sample lab analysis as I have one piece of strong evidence that a 507.00 oil does indeed have some top group 5 ester in it...
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Hi
As Gazwould said, the lack of approval is due to the expense and it being a niche product. We have all the grades of Pro S and Pro R and apart from the 0w-20, the C3 is the slowest seller as it's not necessary for a lot of people. A lot of people with performance diesels have the DPF removed, people with DPFs tend not to go on track. Also because the Race Pro C3 is not approved, it is not seen as a safe option by some. If I remember correctly, in can be used instead of 507, BMW LL04, MB229.51 etc, but should be changed annually rather than as a long service interval oil, so it is not strictly a 507/LL04/229.51 oil as part of those specs is the long service interval.
No, technically it wouldn't be suitable for use in a car under warranty, but that kind of depends on how you look at things. Basically, it is down to the car company to prove that the oil is not suitable, they can't just say 'It's not approved, it's not suitable'. Using an approved oil saves that hassle in the event of a problem, but it is not necessary.
As the Race Pro C3 has a lower level of ZDDP than the rest of the Pro S/R range, the Moly content will be there as an antiwear additive.
Cheers
Tim
I do run a performance diesel 3.0 Tdi 380 bhp 750Nm with no DPF and I do take it to the track occasionally and up the 1/4 mile. I have always used Quantum LL3 and change it every year. I do less than10K miles a year. I used Quantum in my modified PD130 Passat for several years with no issues and I have used it in the Audi. The fact that an oil change in the Audi takes 7.5L can make an oil change quite expensive with some of these oils at £50 for 5L. I do believe that maybe it's time to move on as there is better oil than Quantum but if I am going to pay a premium price I would like the best. A lot of manufacturers make claims about reduced friction and improved power and I have been trying to find quantitive evidence on any possible improvements. The problem is tests like this usually have an ulterior motive and are not independent.
This one the car is running Millers stickers so has probably has some kind of sponsorship deal. Are nano particles another advertising gimmick.
https://www.tegiwaimports.com/blog/445/
Many years ago late 80's I had an Astra 1.6SR. Great 1.6 engine, No ECU's or fuel injection on this. I always used to change the oil every year using AC Delco oil and one year decided to try some slick 50 in it. within the first 10 minutes the idle speed had gone up nearly 200 Rpm and I had to turn it down. Never seen anything like that since, I had that car for another 3 years and never had to tweak the carb again so despite all the negative press about it I definitely saw an improvement there.
Be nice to find some independent tests of possible improvements that could be had.
This one the car is running Millers stickers so has probably has some kind of sponsorship deal. Are nano particles another advertising gimmick.
https://www.tegiwaimports.com/blog/445/
Many years ago late 80's I had an Astra 1.6SR. Great 1.6 engine, No ECU's or fuel injection on this. I always used to change the oil every year using AC Delco oil and one year decided to try some slick 50 in it. within the first 10 minutes the idle speed had gone up nearly 200 Rpm and I had to turn it down. Never seen anything like that since, I had that car for another 3 years and never had to tweak the carb again so despite all the negative press about it I definitely saw an improvement there.
Be nice to find some independent tests of possible improvements that could be had.
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You will struggle to get any impartial oil tests. I've got no bias between the oils that we sell and I'll always try to be honest about oils from other companies, but I don't know all of the oils on the market. Bobistheoilguy forums are good, but can be a bit too specific and can be overly complicated. There is a popular oil test that comes up every month or two, but the problem is that it was sponsored by the company that gets the best results, it was Australian or American (so most of the oils are not available over here or are different to the EU version), the test is several years out of date, and most importantly of all, the test used is massively flawed and doesn't resemble what an oil goes through in an engine at all. One guy on a forum (Honda I think) put together a spreadsheet comparing about 40 different oils, filling in the columns with the information available, but he had some information for some oils and different info for other ones basically making it all meaningless. I really can't think of a decent, completely impartial place to look for oil reviews.
Any idea how hot the oil is getting in your car when driven hard?
Cheers
Tim
Any idea how hot the oil is getting in your car when driven hard?
Cheers
Tim
Damiankowalski
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Hi guys you all are going mental 
I'm confused now :/ can anyone please recommend me a good oil for my 1.9tdi 2009
Thanks
I'm confused now :/ can anyone please recommend me a good oil for my 1.9tdi 2009 Thanks
Such a big mind numbing choice , maybe one of the Ester racing oils from Red Line , Motul , Millers , Fuchs or Gulf ?
But 7.5 L...
When Tim discounts them soon for Christmas and New Year some can be had for a little over £35 .
And for Damian 507.00 .
But 7.5 L...
When Tim discounts them soon for Christmas and New Year some can be had for a little over £35 .
And for Damian 507.00 .
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I was thinking that if the oil is getting to 120C or so, the Gulf Competition 5w-40 would be a sensible choice and that is about £34 with the forum discount. If it's not getting that hot, the Fuchs Pro Race C3 would be £36 with the discount, so performance oils for similar price to the big brands. Those are the current prices, I can't say what will happen with offers, I stay out of that.
And Damian, yes, like Gazwould said, a 507.00 oil (same as what I linked to earlier for you) would be ideal.
Cheers
Tim
And Damian, yes, like Gazwould said, a 507.00 oil (same as what I linked to earlier for you) would be ideal.
Cheers
Tim
Damiankowalski
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️
Back to the budget 504.00 507.00 .
Approved , VW trademarked .
Vs
The non approved 4 Tetrosyl's
ECP / CP4L was naughty a while back as within the advert they said the Triple QX above was VW approved .
Maybe VLS picked it up !
4 different Tetrosyl brands same formula in the bottle ?
Tim do you have the data sheet for the
G Force and how much is it with forum discount ?
Approved , VW trademarked .
Vs
The non approved 4 Tetrosyl's
ECP / CP4L was naughty a while back as within the advert they said the Triple QX above was VW approved .
Maybe VLS picked it up !
4 different Tetrosyl brands same formula in the bottle ?
Tim do you have the data sheet for the
G Force and how much is it with forum discount ?
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A lot of people are very keen to claim their oils are approved and I think there are a lot of people that don't really know what approved means. All approval does though is remove hassle if there is a problem. If you use a non-approved oil, it is down to the car company to prove that it is not good enough for the job and just saying 'It's not approved, so it's not suitable' is not the case, they have to demonstrate that the oil is not close enough to the requirements of the engine.
I do not know if they are the same oils.
We do not have the datasheet for that oil at the moment, although it should be on the site soon.
You get 10% off the website prices with the code AUDIS.
Cheers
Tim
I do not know if they are the same oils.
We do not have the datasheet for that oil at the moment, although it should be on the site soon.
You get 10% off the website prices with the code AUDIS.
Cheers
Tim
Recommended specs for engine, gearbox and rear diff oils please
Make - Audi
Model - A6 C5/4B 2.5 TDi Quattro Sport (BDH engine)
Year - 2003
Mods - none
Use (road/track) - road
Regular service interval
Thanks
Make - Audi
Model - A6 C5/4B 2.5 TDi Quattro Sport (BDH engine)
Year - 2003
Mods - none
Use (road/track) - road
Regular service interval
Thanks
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You need an oil that meets the VW505.01 specification.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-751-vw-50501-oil.aspx
They are all good oils, so make your decision based on any brand/price preference you have.
Regards
Tim
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-751-vw-50501-oil.aspx
They are all good oils, so make your decision based on any brand/price preference you have.
Regards
Tim
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Hi
Sorry, missed the the gearbox and diff bit. You can use the 507 in the engine, if you want.
I assume the box is a 6 speed manual, so I would go for this.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-976-fuc...ae-75w-synthetic-manual-transmission-oil.aspx
The diff needs a 75w-90 GL5 oil.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-673-75w-90-mtfs-manual-transmission-fluid.aspx
The Fuchs Syn 5, Millers CRX, Red Line 75w-90 GL5, Motul Gear 300 and Gulf Competition are ideal for the diff. The Fuchs Sintopoid, Castrol Syntrax Longlife, Millers TRX, Motul Motylgear, Mobil SHC and Gulf Syngear are also good choices.
Cheers
Tim
Sorry, missed the the gearbox and diff bit. You can use the 507 in the engine, if you want.
I assume the box is a 6 speed manual, so I would go for this.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-976-fuc...ae-75w-synthetic-manual-transmission-oil.aspx
The diff needs a 75w-90 GL5 oil.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-673-75w-90-mtfs-manual-transmission-fluid.aspx
The Fuchs Syn 5, Millers CRX, Red Line 75w-90 GL5, Motul Gear 300 and Gulf Competition are ideal for the diff. The Fuchs Sintopoid, Castrol Syntrax Longlife, Millers TRX, Motul Motylgear, Mobil SHC and Gulf Syngear are also good choices.
Cheers
Tim
Thanks - you didn't miss it you replied so fast that you were probably typing as I edited the the post to add gearbox and diff to to the question, and yes it is a 6 speed.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-976-fuc...ae-75w-synthetic-manual-transmission-oil.aspx
I would hang fire on the gearbox oil if I were you cause the Sintofluid FE SAE 75W is a 70W75 .
It seems to be the one for later VAG manual transmissions of 2005+.
I would phone Audi for the up to date gearbox spec as sometimes oil specs are superceded most often for thinner ones ( eg, 75W90 to 75W80 ) , but not that thin for that year !
I would hang fire on the gearbox oil if I were you cause the Sintofluid FE SAE 75W is a 70W75 .
It seems to be the one for later VAG manual transmissions of 2005+.
I would phone Audi for the up to date gearbox spec as sometimes oil specs are superceded most often for thinner ones ( eg, 75W90 to 75W80 ) , but not that thin for that year !
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I see what you mean, but in practice the Sintofluid FE has worked very well for those boxes. As an example, my boss has a 2003 Leon Cupra with a 6 speed box. That has had the Sintofluid FE in there for about 8 years, with no issues at all. A lot of the people that contact us about VAG 6 speed boxes find the gearbox is stiff with 75w-90 and sometimes with 75w-80 as well.
The Sintofluid is very good quality stuff, so while it might be thinner than other oils, it can protect better.
Cheers
Tim
The Sintofluid is very good quality stuff, so while it might be thinner than other oils, it can protect better.
Cheers
Tim
Yes I appreciate discretional modification of requirements .
My 2003 Passat box original spec is 501.50 75W90 which now is superceded by
G 052 911 which is normally a 75W80 and as you know I have the Fuchs recommendation of Titan Sintofluid SAE 75w-80 .
So you are saying that I could go thinner to 70W75 Fuchs Titan Sintofluid FE SAE 75W , if I wished ?
My 2003 Passat box original spec is 501.50 75W90 which now is superceded by
G 052 911 which is normally a 75W80 and as you know I have the Fuchs recommendation of Titan Sintofluid SAE 75w-80 .
So you are saying that I could go thinner to 70W75 Fuchs Titan Sintofluid FE SAE 75W , if I wished ?
Am relatively new to VAG stuff but, and correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the Leon and the A6 quattro 6 speeds are very different.
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I really don't see a problem. We had a discussion with Fuchs about it years ago and it was them that suggested the 75w rather than 75w-80. That was one of their oil techs rather than officially though. The Fuchs (and all other oil companies) look ups are very much by the book and will list what the manufacturer suggests, without taking into account customer feedback. I think Fuchs list the 75w-80 for my Volvo, but I use the 75w with no issue at all (and without the stiff cold shift issues some people have mentioned). We've recommended it to enough that if there was a problem, I'm pretty sure it would have been reported by now.
sptb, while they might be different boxes, I'm pretty sure the oil recommendations are the same/similar. There are lots of very different applications that use the same oil eg a 911 (4wd, LSD in gearbox) and Supra (2wd, no diff in box) would both use a 75w-90.
Cheers
Tim
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Make - Audi
Model - RS3 (2.5t)
Year - 2016
Mods - lots.. big turbo 7xx hp car
Use (road/track) - both
Hi Tim, any advice on what would be best engine oil for my Rs3? The car is daily driven and has a big turbo kit on it, runs 7xx bhp. I service the oil every 3-5k miles and run millers nano drive 5w 40 oil.
Is there anything better than Millers nano drive 5w-40 for my application? The engine is coming out in a few months to be gas flowed, ported and forged.
Also on my gearbox (DQ500) I run OEM vw oil. Is there anything better than OEM oil?
Any recommendations on the Haldex and final drives also?
Thanks!
Model - RS3 (2.5t)
Year - 2016
Mods - lots.. big turbo 7xx hp car
Use (road/track) - both
Hi Tim, any advice on what would be best engine oil for my Rs3? The car is daily driven and has a big turbo kit on it, runs 7xx bhp. I service the oil every 3-5k miles and run millers nano drive 5w 40 oil.
Is there anything better than Millers nano drive 5w-40 for my application? The engine is coming out in a few months to be gas flowed, ported and forged.
Also on my gearbox (DQ500) I run OEM vw oil. Is there anything better than OEM oil?
Any recommendations on the Haldex and final drives also?
Thanks!
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Hi
Any idea how hot the oil gets when driven hard?
As far as I am aware, the OEM oil is Pentosin FFL2, so a very good oil.
The diffs need a 75w-90 GL5 oil.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-673-75w-90-mtfs-manual-transmission-fluid.aspx
The Fuchs Syn 5, Millers CRX, Red Line 75w-90 GL5, Motul Gear 300 and Gulf Competition are ideal. The Fuchs Sintopoid, Castrol Syntrax Longlife, Millers TRX, Motul Motylgear, Mobil SHC and Gulf Syngear are also good choices.
Cheers
Tim
Any idea how hot the oil gets when driven hard?
As far as I am aware, the OEM oil is Pentosin FFL2, so a very good oil.
The diffs need a 75w-90 GL5 oil.
http://www.opieoils.co.uk/c-673-75w-90-mtfs-manual-transmission-fluid.aspx
The Fuchs Syn 5, Millers CRX, Red Line 75w-90 GL5, Motul Gear 300 and Gulf Competition are ideal. The Fuchs Sintopoid, Castrol Syntrax Longlife, Millers TRX, Motul Motylgear, Mobil SHC and Gulf Syngear are also good choices.
Cheers
Tim
Make - Audi
Model - S3
Year - 2018
Mods - Stage 1 software, DSG tune, elbow pipe 370 bhp/380lb/ft
Use (road/track) Road and track days, I usually limit my track time to 20 minutes including warm up and cool down laps or 12 laps ish (Cadwell)
Looking for an oil for it's first change, the car is still very fresh 900 odd miles. I have used Titan pro race S and Millers CFS in my track car. Are Motul and redline worth the premium over Fuchs and Millers? Also whats the Gulf racing like?
Cheers
Adam
Model - S3
Year - 2018
Mods - Stage 1 software, DSG tune, elbow pipe 370 bhp/380lb/ft
Use (road/track) Road and track days, I usually limit my track time to 20 minutes including warm up and cool down laps or 12 laps ish (Cadwell)
Looking for an oil for it's first change, the car is still very fresh 900 odd miles. I have used Titan pro race S and Millers CFS in my track car. Are Motul and redline worth the premium over Fuchs and Millers? Also whats the Gulf racing like?
Cheers
Adam
- Joined
- May 8, 2008
- Messages
- 368
- Reaction score
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- Points
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- Location
- Sunny Cornwall / UK
- Website
- www.opieoils.co.uk
- Joined
- May 8, 2008
- Messages
- 368
- Reaction score
- 44
- Points
- 28
- Location
- Sunny Cornwall / UK
- Website
- www.opieoils.co.uk
Hi Tim
Audi S3 2018 no tune yet.
I’m planning to drop the original oil out at around 3k
What would you recommend?
Thanks
Audi S3 2018 no tune yet.
I’m planning to drop the original oil out at around 3k
What would you recommend?
Thanks
