Due to some maintainance issues, had to pull the engine on this S4.
Now as most will already know, the B5 S4 engine bay is pretty packed, and lots of items which would normally be easily accessible are buried deep within the bowels of the bay.
I've always found it easier to remove the tranny and motor as one assembly.
A 2-poster lift, and engine hoist are very useful, I wouldn't attempt this on my driveway.
I proceeded as follows:
1) Before pushing car into the workshop, I first drained all the coolant. I also removed the front bumper, and drained the screen wash, PAS fluid, and connected aircon equipment to both high and low ports of the car, and recovered the refrigerant.
Capacity is usually 750 grammes, +/- 50g. In this case, I recovered 460 grammes, so though the system was working, it was down on weight.
2) Car was then positioned centrally over the 2-poster ramp, and the arms carefully extended. I made certain the rubber-protected pads would contact the B5 lifting points.
3) Took the weight, but only just.
4) I disconnected the battery, then removed the four 8mm bolts that secure the lid to the electronic box in the scuttle chamber. Removed the ECU retaining clip, then carefully lifted the ECU out, and disconnected the two connectors, as well as the five engine-to-dash / main harness connectors.
5) Removed the rubber strip that seperates the scuttle from the engine bay, and carefully unclipped the engine harness conduit from the frame.
6) Disconnected the PAS oil cooler, high pressure line (to rack), removed the engine covers, and disconnected the fuel lines - feed (high pressure) return and vent to charcoal cannister.
7) Removed the air box, after unplugging the MAF, and ignition amplifiers. Disconnected the throttle body feed.
8) Disconnected the engine-to-heater matrix feed and return, and pushed the two hoses downwards through the scuttle area, and into the engine compartment.
9) As I had recovered the aircon refrigerant, I was no free to disconnect the condenser from the receiver drier, and compressor. I removed the front clip / radiator and lock carrier, after first disconnecting the bonnet release cable.
8) I now raised the car fully, and disconnected the two sleeves that connect the exhaust system to the catalysts. One had bolts so rusty, the wouldn't come undone, they just crumbled, and rounded off. I used a disc cutter to cut the bolts free, then disconnecting the exhaust rubbers, gently worked the system backwards, and lowered it to the ground. One of the hangers was corroded, and had let go of the pipework, but it's weldable, will look at that later.
9) I then removed the heatshield in the transmission tunnel, and removed the shield that covered the propshaft-to-transmission connection, then recovered the 6 allen headed bolts, seperating the prop from the transmission.
10) I seperated the driveshafts from the transmission - these are 10mm splines, 6 per side.
11) Unbolting the rear of the subframe, I allowed the tail of the tranny to drop, enough to reach up, and disconnect the shift linkage, as well as the stabiliser rod.
12) Lowering the car till the wheels were just touching the ground, and working from the engine compartment, I removed the tiny clip that secures the clutch slave cylinder feed to the cylinder itself, and pulled the pipe free.
13) There's an earth strap on the driver's side, between the mount and the frame. It was easier to remove the 6mm allen-headed bolt that secured this strap to the mount. The battery positive terminal was then fed through the scuttle, and secure to the engine with cable ties.
14) The car was now raised for the last time, and the two 13mm nuts that secured the engine mounts to the lower carriers were removed, before the car was now lowered. I attached an engine hoist shackle bar to the lifting points - there are four, but you only need to use two in a diagnol arrangement.
15) I then attached the hoist, and just lifted the engine / tranny clear of the lower carriers. Working from the ground, I unbolted the front of the subframe, recovering the 2 long bolts, and the slightly shorter ones, that go through the ARB brackets / lower engine mount carriers into the frame, and allowed the subframe to drop. As the catalysts are still connected, they will not pass through the gap between the subframe and main frame easily, hence I lowered it completely.
I was now able to raise the engine / tranny fully, and pull the lot out. A quick examination showed a source of rattles, that tends to afflict early S4's - exhaust manifold / turbo heat shields, that had broken free of their securing clips. They had also split, so I'll be welding those tomorrow.
I'll be splitting the engine and tranny tomorrow too, so we'll see what the dual-mass flywheel's like. It has a fair bit of driveline shunt, so I suspect the flywheel's in bad shape. There's an oil leak from the driver's side turbo oil return line, but will be examining the connections, see if they're loose. The pipe itself seems in pretty good shape, so leak is most likely loose connections, or bad gasket.
Some pictures:
To be continued...
Now as most will already know, the B5 S4 engine bay is pretty packed, and lots of items which would normally be easily accessible are buried deep within the bowels of the bay.
I've always found it easier to remove the tranny and motor as one assembly.
A 2-poster lift, and engine hoist are very useful, I wouldn't attempt this on my driveway.
I proceeded as follows:
1) Before pushing car into the workshop, I first drained all the coolant. I also removed the front bumper, and drained the screen wash, PAS fluid, and connected aircon equipment to both high and low ports of the car, and recovered the refrigerant.
Capacity is usually 750 grammes, +/- 50g. In this case, I recovered 460 grammes, so though the system was working, it was down on weight.
2) Car was then positioned centrally over the 2-poster ramp, and the arms carefully extended. I made certain the rubber-protected pads would contact the B5 lifting points.
3) Took the weight, but only just.
4) I disconnected the battery, then removed the four 8mm bolts that secure the lid to the electronic box in the scuttle chamber. Removed the ECU retaining clip, then carefully lifted the ECU out, and disconnected the two connectors, as well as the five engine-to-dash / main harness connectors.
5) Removed the rubber strip that seperates the scuttle from the engine bay, and carefully unclipped the engine harness conduit from the frame.
6) Disconnected the PAS oil cooler, high pressure line (to rack), removed the engine covers, and disconnected the fuel lines - feed (high pressure) return and vent to charcoal cannister.
7) Removed the air box, after unplugging the MAF, and ignition amplifiers. Disconnected the throttle body feed.
8) Disconnected the engine-to-heater matrix feed and return, and pushed the two hoses downwards through the scuttle area, and into the engine compartment.
9) As I had recovered the aircon refrigerant, I was no free to disconnect the condenser from the receiver drier, and compressor. I removed the front clip / radiator and lock carrier, after first disconnecting the bonnet release cable.
8) I now raised the car fully, and disconnected the two sleeves that connect the exhaust system to the catalysts. One had bolts so rusty, the wouldn't come undone, they just crumbled, and rounded off. I used a disc cutter to cut the bolts free, then disconnecting the exhaust rubbers, gently worked the system backwards, and lowered it to the ground. One of the hangers was corroded, and had let go of the pipework, but it's weldable, will look at that later.
9) I then removed the heatshield in the transmission tunnel, and removed the shield that covered the propshaft-to-transmission connection, then recovered the 6 allen headed bolts, seperating the prop from the transmission.
10) I seperated the driveshafts from the transmission - these are 10mm splines, 6 per side.
11) Unbolting the rear of the subframe, I allowed the tail of the tranny to drop, enough to reach up, and disconnect the shift linkage, as well as the stabiliser rod.
12) Lowering the car till the wheels were just touching the ground, and working from the engine compartment, I removed the tiny clip that secures the clutch slave cylinder feed to the cylinder itself, and pulled the pipe free.
13) There's an earth strap on the driver's side, between the mount and the frame. It was easier to remove the 6mm allen-headed bolt that secured this strap to the mount. The battery positive terminal was then fed through the scuttle, and secure to the engine with cable ties.
14) The car was now raised for the last time, and the two 13mm nuts that secured the engine mounts to the lower carriers were removed, before the car was now lowered. I attached an engine hoist shackle bar to the lifting points - there are four, but you only need to use two in a diagnol arrangement.
15) I then attached the hoist, and just lifted the engine / tranny clear of the lower carriers. Working from the ground, I unbolted the front of the subframe, recovering the 2 long bolts, and the slightly shorter ones, that go through the ARB brackets / lower engine mount carriers into the frame, and allowed the subframe to drop. As the catalysts are still connected, they will not pass through the gap between the subframe and main frame easily, hence I lowered it completely.
I was now able to raise the engine / tranny fully, and pull the lot out. A quick examination showed a source of rattles, that tends to afflict early S4's - exhaust manifold / turbo heat shields, that had broken free of their securing clips. They had also split, so I'll be welding those tomorrow.
I'll be splitting the engine and tranny tomorrow too, so we'll see what the dual-mass flywheel's like. It has a fair bit of driveline shunt, so I suspect the flywheel's in bad shape. There's an oil leak from the driver's side turbo oil return line, but will be examining the connections, see if they're loose. The pipe itself seems in pretty good shape, so leak is most likely loose connections, or bad gasket.
Some pictures:
To be continued...
