great wax to use

10blazin

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got some meguires tech 2.0 after reading rabbit uses it i thought id givit a try..... impressive stuff heres the results :rock:
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Looks good mate, the wax stage actually doesn't create much shine. It's the whole process. Like what I do is clean car with a mitt. Clay the car with sum clay lube, use a dodo juice lime prime to get rid of the fine swirls, put 3 layers of chemical guys gloss on then 3 layers of zaino Z2 with zfx cure additive then I use dodo juice diamond White wax and use three layers of that too. As my car is silver itshard to get a shine like you get on dark cars. But you should go onto www.cleanyourcar.co.uk n look up the ones I use. The glaze is not needed but it adds that extra bit. Claying your car will create the glossiest look ever. Do you use any tire shine?
 
just washed and wax i used a bit of tire shine i had left but when i drove on the car park it dusted up the tires but id love some tips how to use clay get rid of scratches etc.... it was pretty shiney believe it or not as you can see i was really pleased with the results nice wax
 
For tyres I would recommend 303 Aerospace Protectant. Having SPF 40 suncscreen it can be used on dashboard with great results. Gives the tyres a satin matt finish and without the ugly glossy look. The best tyre cleaner I have used. You can read details here:

http://tinyurl.com/yevmfy

 
the 303 is great stuff, pricey but it really does works, and a little goes a long way, i use 303 or zaino tire shine, its ok, but not the good, it doesnt contain silicon which is the main reason why i got it as pretty much every other one does!

it depends on the sorta of scratches, really fine scratches can be done by hand and using some fine scratch remover (dont use t-cut), or if it is big scratches, you can use something like megs 85 diamond cut with a rotary polisher.
 
but id love some tips how to use clay get rid of scratches etc....

Firstly clay doesn't remove scratches - polishing does. Clay is used to clean the paint surface before polishing as washing alone doesn't remove bonded contaminants like tar which claying does.

Best advice I could give would be to get yourself on polishedbliss.co.uk or detailingworld.co.uk and to read up on some of the tutorials.
 
yea, im on detailingworld. good bunch of guys on there, claying a car is very easy, but you have to keep moulding it to create a clean surface against car and always use it with lube, if you dont it can stick to paint and leave behind a horrible residue or it marrs the paintwork, you can tell if its been marred because it create like holograme , they are easy to remove with some good polish! your best bet if you have never used it, is to get one of the megs clay kits. first time i used it i couldnt beleive how well it worked, i thought it may have been like a gimmick, but it does truely work, use it with some good gloss or sealant and then a good coat of wax n and will be amazingly smooth, what sort of protection would u like to have for ur car, like dodo juice diamond white gives good shine and fairly decent protection, beading starts to go after a few weeks, if you do lots of motorway miles then one of the collinite wax would be best, gives much more protection that anything on the market! its hard to tell between the shine that wax's create, as i said earlier, a good shine is all in the prep work
 






this is a bit of when i had to sand down a scratch just above the arch, half of it has gone and that was just with 1 go of megs 105 with wool pad on rotary polisher, is very worrying when you do it, but you gotta trust the products! lol

 
I washed mine yesterday, usually there's no need for anything other than a wash and wax. I use Meg's Gold Class and it's brilliant stuff, goes on and buffs off very easily.

I did notice that the paint isn't totally smooth to the touch even after washing and waxing after the winter dirt and grime so i'll be using a clay bar in the next few weeks and polishing before the summer. (You shouldn't need to use a clay bar and polish more than 3 times a year at the most by the way... I guess it depends how many miles you do.)
 
Looks great that does :thumbsup: reminds me of mine, but looked-after :laugh:

I think I definately need one of those Cupra front thingies as well...

Did you tint the side indicators or buy them like that?
 
i just popped em out with a screw driver carefull though and tinted em mysyself very easy to do only took 10 min .....
 
the paint work on my car is very good theres a few stone chip and a couple of scraches that need doin but dandle must of took care of the car paint work is fine hardly any marks but id like to get the paint work really nice like rabbits repair the chips get the srcatches out and make it gleem to hell il be going on detailing world gona do some reading

yea, im on detailingworld. good bunch of guys on there, claying a car is very easy, but you have to keep moulding it to create a clean surface against car and always use it with lube, if you dont it can stick to paint and leave behind a horrible residue or it marrs the paintwork, you can tell if its been marred because it create like holograme , they are easy to remove with some good polish! your best bet if you have never used it, is to get one of the megs clay kits. first time i used it i couldnt beleive how well it worked, i thought it may have been like a gimmick, but it does truely work, use it with some good gloss or sealant and then a good coat of wax n and will be amazingly smooth, what sort of protection would u like to have for ur car, like dodo juice diamond white gives good shine and fairly decent protection, beading starts to go after a few weeks, if you do lots of motorway miles then one of the collinite wax would be best, gives much more protection that anything on the market! its hard to tell between the shine that wax's create, as i said earlier, a good shine is all in the prep work
 
have a look on these sites, and if you use these then you should get a beautiful shine!

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/detailing-clay/cat_9.html this to create the smooth finish

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing/polish/meguairs-80-speed-glaze/prod_91.html this or some of these weak cutting compounds to clean and prepare paint http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/polishing/polish/cat_16.html
menzerna stuff is mainly to be used to a rotary polisher!

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/glazes/cat_21.html one of these glazes

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/sealants/cat_3.html any one of these sealants but the chem guys jet seal or zaino z2 are the best, if you get the zaino z2 you will need

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/zaino/zfx-flash-cure-accelerator-additive/prod_465.html this basically increaes the cure time, you put it on all over your car, wait 15mins n buff off and apply 2nd coat right away, without it you will need to leave it on for about an hour and then wait 12 hours between the next coat as it needs to cure after buffing off.

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/wax/cat_4.html any one of these waxes but i would personally go for wither one of these

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/wax/victoria-wax/victoria-wax-6oz-concours-wax/prod_234.html creates a lovely finish but makes sure you apply it very thinly as it clogs up ur microfibre clothes, leave it on the car untill you can wipe it off with just a gentle rub with finger. may take between 10mins with thin layers to possibly 1hr+ if its a thinck layers, there is no benefit to puttin a layer on thick, it just uses up more product n takes longer to buff off

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/wax/dodo-juice/dodo-juice-supernatural-v2/prod_438.html this is amazing if you are willing to pay the price

http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/wax/dodo-juice/dodo-juice-blue-velvet/prod_404.html this would be good for your car

get yourself some good clothes like these http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/microfibre-cloths/eurow-shag-pile-double-density-towels/prod_436.html

also http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/wheel...bilberry-wheel-cleaner-1-litre-/prod_499.html this is great stuff ac it is not acidic so will not eat away at your alloys like other stuff does!

you will end up paying more for this stuff than the stuff you get from like halfords, but trust me, everything about it is so much better.
 
thanks mate your a star im gone look in to that stuff for sure
 
so which order do you do things what are glazes for do you wax after a glaze ??
 
you will need to clean your car, dry it off slightly, work the clay in ur hands to make it soft, spray the area your going to clay and the clay and gently rub over in one direction back n forth, keep feeling over with your fingers until smooth, tar spots will take some time to move.
after claying, clean car again and dry, dont use a chamois, use a proper micropore drying cloth. then use some of the polish to clean the surface, the sealant or glaze stage can be done either way really, i done glaze first as it 'apparently' has a slight bonding agent to bond to suface and create a nice shine, put on,buff of and do another layer straight away, do it three times, then put the sealant on, leave for a few mins and buff off and also leave it for a few mins, then do again n so on. then apply wax, also, do about three layers of wax, in between cleans, you can get a quick detailer like http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/detailing-sprays/meguiars-ultimate-quik-detailer/prod_361.html which has good beading properties. use this after say a long drive, or some rain or just if its getting slightly dirty, it will prolong the cars protection and will always keep it looking in tip top condition!
 
You can buy a fried breakfast in a tin doesn't mean it is better than cooking the eggs, sausage, bacon, etc seperately!

As long as you know what products do you know which ones you can combine together.
 
You can buy a fried breakfast in a tin doesn't mean it is better than cooking the eggs, sausage, bacon, etc seperately!

As long as you know what products do you know which ones you can combine together.

lol true say
 
the kits you get are good but i find that different makes are better at different stuff, like dodo juice do really good wax whereas there paint correction is not as good as say the bodyshop stuff from megs, 3m or menzerna, if you do not know much about car detailing than the kits are great, but if you know your stuff u know that its usually better to buy seperatly, you can buy good kits which come with a rotary polisher, pads and cutting compounds and its a great introduction into the polishing world!
 
im gona go for meguires basic clay with what lube ??? ... what do you recomend for a glaze i want it to shine like shyte and whats good to get scraches out i have no buffer il have to do it by hand..... im affraid then i might just stick with the tech wax its nice.... but wana clay and glaze it fist to shine like hell i appreciate the help guys
 
do it, when you start using the different stuff you start getting addicted to all the different products, i am, i have loads in garage at mo, never know what stuff to use!
 
haha i know what you mean im starting to like my car looking good and i can easily see how detailing is addictive....what are them lights on your car are they leds or s6 or sumut
 
nah they are the cheap ebay ones but i was looking at fitting some proper ones as they look a bit blueish! might just wait till get new car tho!

yea, you will soon get the addiction, like getting little brush to clean round the wheel bolts, have you cleaned your engine bay yet!
 
no not the engine bay probly will as the addiction deepens lol
 
you can buy good kits which come with a rotary polisher, pads and cutting compounds and its a great introduction into the polishing world!

No! No! No! No! and No!

Rotary is NOT a good idea for a beginner at all.

If you want to get a machine polisher then dual action is the way to go - Megs G220, Porter Cable, UDM, Kestrel, etc.
As unless you are a total idiot you can't do much damage with a DA.

Rotary is a whole different kettle of fish and could easily wreck paint.
 
No! No! No! No! and No!

Rotary is NOT a good idea for a beginner at all.

If you want to get a machine polisher then dual action is the way to go - Megs G220, Porter Cable, UDM, Kestrel, etc.
As unless you are a total idiot you can't do much damage with a DA.

Rotary is a whole different kettle of fish and could easily wreck paint.

After reading alot of reviews ondetailingworld etc,went for the silverline random orbital sander / polisher, and after my megs g220 packed up, all i can say is for £20 the silverline model is the winner outright. I can not tell you I would choose the megs unit over the silverline one. I'm sure there are some areas that the silver uit wont compete, but for a begginer, and even if you're not according to the gus at detailingworld, for 20 quid, you can't go wrong!!

I will post some pics this weekend of my misus's TT as she's got some swirls that need ridding.

A
 
dont you think one of these kits are better i mean BETTER as its all there instead of not knowing which polish , wax etc... to get as there are so so many on the market?
http://www.polishedbliss.co.uk/acatalog/werkstat-acrylic-kit-kits.html

For the right colour car I would not discount a kit like this. I have tried various different concoctions of waxes and sealants and find the Werkstat kit excellent for my Sprint blue paintwork. Its easy to apply and very durable with fantastic reflection and flake pop in sunlight. I do agree though that trial and error is the way forward to find the best products for your car as there are a lot of factors which effect your desired finish. Some produce offer a lovely wet looking paint,some a sharp clear finish, some only last a week and some last months. Detailing is a slippery road...fasten your seat belt and hold on tight! LOL
 
rotary polisheds are extremely easy to use when you know how, if you keep it moving it will not burn paint, but yes a dual action is the best but they can be pricey. If your paint is ok then using ur hand will be perfect. Just buy the things you said earlier and start from Their, get some good tire shine and wheel wax. The aerospace 303 is great for things like the front grill and all other plastic trim as it's puts a uv protectant on.
 
After reading alot of reviews ondetailingworld etc,went for the silverline random orbital sander / polisher, and after my megs g220 packed up, all i can say is for £20 the silverline model is the winner outright. I can not tell you I would choose the megs unit over the silverline one. I'm sure there are some areas that the silver uit wont compete, but for a begginer, and even if you're not according to the gus at detailingworld, for 20 quid, you can't go wrong!!

I will post some pics this weekend of my misus's TT as she's got some swirls that need ridding.

A


The silverline ones are great, cheap built very well and a lot more reliable than the megs g220
 
If you start using a polished you need to use the correct pads with the correct polish. If you search for 3m polish you will find that they do 3 types of polish all have a different colour lid and that colour relates to what pad to use cos they also do the pads. so a green pad will need the polish with the green lid. Very very good stuff and simple to use. Also, other companies such as menzerna or the megs stuff which are in the browny bottles. Best place to get your stuff from is clean your car. I get great service and depending on how much you spend, you get discount point so for your next purchase you can use some points to get money off. But they don't sell the 3m stuff
 

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