MAP Sensor

loafofbrett

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Would the car run rather erratic if this was left unplugged?

Strange question I know, as sensors are obviously there for a reason. I was just wondering if it would make the massive difference it has. I think it's putting itself into limp mode as occasionally the car will just lose all power and idle only, no matter how much you press the throttle.

Cheers
 
ermm... yeah... would go straight into limp mode as it has no way of telling how much boost is coming vs requested by the map.

Older non MAP sensor cars use throttle psition and MAF readings IIRC but MAP sensor cars need this connected to run properly.

Prolly getting either the EPC or CEL indicator on dash light up and be on actuator pressure for boost (0.5bar)

<tuffty/>
 
Cheers for reply :)

Basically I fitted an FMIC this weekend and there was no where to mount that sensor that was on the previous SMIC, so I left it disconnected. I went for a blast up the road and it was boosting well etc, so I thought I could leave it off until I got the forge mounting pipe for it, but this morning it was running jerky as hell and cutting all power.

I think the main thing is, since fitting this FMIC which took all ****** weekend I now have some crazy knock/banging noise coming from the engine bay somewhere plus it's not running right (because of the sensor) and I figured it's gonna be a new sensor + more time sorting it all out to get rid of the knocking, so that's more money/time investment! I'm almost ready to put all the old stuff back on as I'm not sure I like the look of it anyway.

I think the question is, if I shelled out another £30 for this map sensor mount from forge, plus bought another map sensor for god knows how much because I can't get the old one of the SMIC, would it run right? It's just the thought of more spend yet more problems is getting to me. I had a car working perfectly fine until I changed the intercooler over :(
 
Oh, no dash lights at all come on either, even when it's in limp mode?
 
with a map sensor (if its what im thinking of) if unplugged the idle will go mental by reving up and down violently. you then have to reset the power supply by disconnecting red and black leads off battery for 3 mins then touch the leads together and reconnect. i only know this from my honda crx but presume its the same on an audi as they are both injection engines!
 
You not got VAGCOM or know anyone local who has? Really need to see what faults are coming up before a proper diagnosis can be made...

<tuffty/>
 
Yeah I've got VAGCOM, didn't think of doing that actually. TBH, before I undertook the FMIC task it was already throwing up an inlet temp sensor fault but it's always ran fine with that there anyway. I suppose one thing should be sorted before another is changed, but I'm a fool. Thinking I might just return it to standard now anyway.
 

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