Talkwrench
Hoonigan
I new to the forum so first off hello all,
That's the introduction over with! So here go's.
My plan is to transform my standard 2000 Audi A4 B5 1.8T sport quattro into something that will be a bit nippier.
My Goals
I haven't really set any horsepower targets as i don't want to chase numbers on a dyno and kill it! I reckon it will make good power without pushing the set up too hard.
ETA
Again i haven't set a date because in previous experiences you tend to rush things and mess stuff up, or worse forget something! My guestimation is around June / July 2010. My bank account tends to dictate the pace this project moves forward.
Purpose
At the moment I drive the Audi everday, once the engine goes in I will use it occasionally on the road, some track days and a few Drag runs but mainly just a toy to play with and enjoy.
Car Spec - Items in red are still required, If any one can help spec'ing the rest of the bits please fire away as im still uncertain on a few things. Even better if anyone has any of the parts listed for sale:icon_thumright:
Engine
058 Block 83mm Bore 2008cc
JE Custom Forged Pistons 8.5:1 CR
Integrated Engineering Rods 20mm wrist pin ARP 2000 Fasteners
034 Motorsport Anti-friction coated main bearings
Calico Anti-friction coated rod bearings
VW ABF 2.0 cast crank 92.8mm stroke
Balanced & Shaved intermediate shaft
Modified cylinder 4 oil squirter
Dowel pinned crank pulley
Fluidamper vibration damper pulley
CLUTCH & FLYWHEEL - ANY ADVISE? Im leaning towards the Clutchmaster FX 850 dual plate jobbie.
ARP Main Studs
ARP Head Studs
ARP Flywheel Bolts
AEB Cylinder Head slight polish to remove major casting flash & mismatch
Supertech Inconel exhaust valves single groove standard size
Supertech Stainless Steel Nitrided intake valves single groove standard size
Supertech Highlift Valve springs, single intakes, dual exhaust
Supertech titanium retainers & Valve keepers
Catcam 1013653 billet camshafts & vernier pulleys
Garrett GT3076R "GT30R" ball bearing turbo with ported compressor housing & 3" V band exhaust side.
SPA turbo T3 top mount cast manifold
TiAL 38mm external wastegate plumbed into downpipe
Milltek exhaust system downpipe back
Cat - God knows how im going to sort that out!
Possible custom intake manifold with 8 injectors
Water methanol injection
Evolution Racewerks front mount intercooler
034 Motorsport engine, gearbox, diff and subframe mounts
Bosch motorsport 044 fuel pump
Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator
INJECTORS?
ECU? No flash tune for this set up I was thinking Emerald or DTA?
As for the rest of the car I will cover this off later, so watch this space! Everything has been considered and nothing will be left untouched. I have already made some significant changes to the chassis and brakes which i will detail later.
I will start with the engine work that I've already completed, followed by the work still required.
I started with a spare AEB engine 058 block which i won on Ebay for £60. Stripped it, dipped it and enamelled it black.
Stripping it - Looks minging hey.
After hot tanking
Enamelled black
Next step was to drop it off at my local machine shop, I had the block opened up to 83mm with 4.5 thou clearance as I will be using a forged JE custom piston! I didn't use a torque plate because I couldn't find one anywhere at the time, I have since seen these for sale but are very expensive.
You can see the cross hatching from the honing here, top skim will be done once the squish measurement is taken.
I then assembled the rods and pistons together and hit a problem! It seems that JE had forgotten to properly clear the underside of the piston to accept the small end of the rod! This was quickly sorted on a CNC machine with a ball nose cutter. All together and they look the shizzle!
NICE!
Then came the longest part of all, fitting the stroker crank! I removed a crank from a 2.0 8V Golf GTI motor ABF i think, unfortunately I had to buy another engine to get this crank! I managed to sell the head & block and actually got the crank for free! Its a cast item, you can get lucky and find forged ones but hey cast ones have held up to serious torque over the pond in the States so im not worried. Fitting this 92.8mm crank into an 058 block is not to be sniffed at, it does drop in until you fit a rod! You have to clear the crank case walls a fair bit in places, depending on the rod design this will then determine how much. I used intergrated engineering rods and it turns out there not that great for a stroker build in a 058 block. I had to chamfer the bottom of the bores for the rods to clear. Because you want to remove the minimum amount of material to gain the right amount of clearance you want to creep up on it so requires torquing the crank up a million times to check clearance, during this constant rebuild and strip down I have used new bearings which will be thrown in the bin once im happy and replaced with coated ones, I did however check mains & big end clearances with platigauges they are slightly over OEM specs as the crank was polished but this is good for a free revving engine, especially since it will redline at 8500, I will check these again with the new bearings upon final assembly. I dont have any pictures of this but I can get some if anyone really wants to see the grinding required. I have used ARP fasteners for the main crank caps, these have to go through a number of torque cycles before you can finally torque them up for good, this was the ideal point they've been torqued up more times than i care to remember.
The stroker crank is the reason for the custom JE pistons, here's a side by side image next to an OEM Mahle piston, im sure you can figure out the differences yourselves, your all clever people!
Next job was to file fit the piston rings to match these end gap tolerances
Top ring to 0.018"
2nd ring to 0.020"
oil rings greater than 0.015"
This really is a crap job but has to be done to avoid the ring ends butting up and gouging the bores to bits.
I then assembled the rods and pistons together and hit a problem! It seems that JE had forgotten to properly clear the underside of the piston to accept the small end of the rod! This was quickly sorted on a CNC machine with a ball nose cutter. All together and they look the shizzle!
Finally I could assemble the engine for the first time and it actually turn a full revolution, took a few weeks working late nights after work to get this far, Oh the satisfaction.
Looking Good.
On to the next stage, fitting the intermediate shaft. The OEM shaft is actually pretty shocking to be honest. Its so unbalanced its scary when it turns on the lathe. The problem I had was that cylinder 4 was catching the oil pump drive gear so i needed to remove about 5mm from the back face to make it work. Also the shaft is tapered and ran far to close to the rod in cylinder 1 so i took the taper out, once it was done it span alot nicer than before.
Before
Before
After, Notice the shaft also, this is the same diameter all the way along.
And the last internal modification was to oil squirter in cylinder 4, see the block picture below you can see the base for cylinder 4 is higher up the block therefore making the oil squiter closer to the piston (you can't really tell from the pic so you will just have to believe me, it did connect so I had to sort it out, I had to be real careful because if i raised it up to much the timing wheel on the crank would eat it.
This picture was taken before surgery so you can't see what I had to grind away.
Notice how there is a small notch in the piston skirt to provide as much clearance as possible for the squirter
Then as an extra precaution i ground down the over hanging lip of the squirter, sorry about the pic.
That about covers the work to date on the bottom end, I need to decide which flywheel & Clutch to go with so I can get the entire rotating assembly balanced and finally assembled, Don't even dare suggest a new dual mass unit, this thing would kick the poop out of it.
Any one care to estimate the crank horsepower at around 20 PSI? Maybe we could run a sweepstake.
I hope all that makes sense! I haven't proof read it so apologies if some of its crap!
Next I will detail the cylinder head build up, If anyone wants to see anything in particular then please ask I have lots of pics.
I will part with a comparison shot of the K03 turbo next to the GT30R! Enjoy
That's the introduction over with! So here go's.
My plan is to transform my standard 2000 Audi A4 B5 1.8T sport quattro into something that will be a bit nippier.
My Goals
I haven't really set any horsepower targets as i don't want to chase numbers on a dyno and kill it! I reckon it will make good power without pushing the set up too hard.
ETA
Again i haven't set a date because in previous experiences you tend to rush things and mess stuff up, or worse forget something! My guestimation is around June / July 2010. My bank account tends to dictate the pace this project moves forward.
Purpose
At the moment I drive the Audi everday, once the engine goes in I will use it occasionally on the road, some track days and a few Drag runs but mainly just a toy to play with and enjoy.
Car Spec - Items in red are still required, If any one can help spec'ing the rest of the bits please fire away as im still uncertain on a few things. Even better if anyone has any of the parts listed for sale:icon_thumright:
Engine
058 Block 83mm Bore 2008cc
JE Custom Forged Pistons 8.5:1 CR
Integrated Engineering Rods 20mm wrist pin ARP 2000 Fasteners
034 Motorsport Anti-friction coated main bearings
Calico Anti-friction coated rod bearings
VW ABF 2.0 cast crank 92.8mm stroke
Balanced & Shaved intermediate shaft
Modified cylinder 4 oil squirter
Dowel pinned crank pulley
Fluidamper vibration damper pulley
CLUTCH & FLYWHEEL - ANY ADVISE? Im leaning towards the Clutchmaster FX 850 dual plate jobbie.
ARP Main Studs
ARP Head Studs
ARP Flywheel Bolts
AEB Cylinder Head slight polish to remove major casting flash & mismatch
Supertech Inconel exhaust valves single groove standard size
Supertech Stainless Steel Nitrided intake valves single groove standard size
Supertech Highlift Valve springs, single intakes, dual exhaust
Supertech titanium retainers & Valve keepers
Catcam 1013653 billet camshafts & vernier pulleys
Garrett GT3076R "GT30R" ball bearing turbo with ported compressor housing & 3" V band exhaust side.
SPA turbo T3 top mount cast manifold
TiAL 38mm external wastegate plumbed into downpipe
Milltek exhaust system downpipe back
Cat - God knows how im going to sort that out!
Possible custom intake manifold with 8 injectors
Water methanol injection
Evolution Racewerks front mount intercooler
034 Motorsport engine, gearbox, diff and subframe mounts
Bosch motorsport 044 fuel pump
Aeromotive Fuel pressure regulator
INJECTORS?
ECU? No flash tune for this set up I was thinking Emerald or DTA?
As for the rest of the car I will cover this off later, so watch this space! Everything has been considered and nothing will be left untouched. I have already made some significant changes to the chassis and brakes which i will detail later.
I will start with the engine work that I've already completed, followed by the work still required.
I started with a spare AEB engine 058 block which i won on Ebay for £60. Stripped it, dipped it and enamelled it black.
Stripping it - Looks minging hey.
After hot tanking
Enamelled black
Next step was to drop it off at my local machine shop, I had the block opened up to 83mm with 4.5 thou clearance as I will be using a forged JE custom piston! I didn't use a torque plate because I couldn't find one anywhere at the time, I have since seen these for sale but are very expensive.
You can see the cross hatching from the honing here, top skim will be done once the squish measurement is taken.
I then assembled the rods and pistons together and hit a problem! It seems that JE had forgotten to properly clear the underside of the piston to accept the small end of the rod! This was quickly sorted on a CNC machine with a ball nose cutter. All together and they look the shizzle!
NICE!
Then came the longest part of all, fitting the stroker crank! I removed a crank from a 2.0 8V Golf GTI motor ABF i think, unfortunately I had to buy another engine to get this crank! I managed to sell the head & block and actually got the crank for free! Its a cast item, you can get lucky and find forged ones but hey cast ones have held up to serious torque over the pond in the States so im not worried. Fitting this 92.8mm crank into an 058 block is not to be sniffed at, it does drop in until you fit a rod! You have to clear the crank case walls a fair bit in places, depending on the rod design this will then determine how much. I used intergrated engineering rods and it turns out there not that great for a stroker build in a 058 block. I had to chamfer the bottom of the bores for the rods to clear. Because you want to remove the minimum amount of material to gain the right amount of clearance you want to creep up on it so requires torquing the crank up a million times to check clearance, during this constant rebuild and strip down I have used new bearings which will be thrown in the bin once im happy and replaced with coated ones, I did however check mains & big end clearances with platigauges they are slightly over OEM specs as the crank was polished but this is good for a free revving engine, especially since it will redline at 8500, I will check these again with the new bearings upon final assembly. I dont have any pictures of this but I can get some if anyone really wants to see the grinding required. I have used ARP fasteners for the main crank caps, these have to go through a number of torque cycles before you can finally torque them up for good, this was the ideal point they've been torqued up more times than i care to remember.
The stroker crank is the reason for the custom JE pistons, here's a side by side image next to an OEM Mahle piston, im sure you can figure out the differences yourselves, your all clever people!
Next job was to file fit the piston rings to match these end gap tolerances
Top ring to 0.018"
2nd ring to 0.020"
oil rings greater than 0.015"
This really is a crap job but has to be done to avoid the ring ends butting up and gouging the bores to bits.
I then assembled the rods and pistons together and hit a problem! It seems that JE had forgotten to properly clear the underside of the piston to accept the small end of the rod! This was quickly sorted on a CNC machine with a ball nose cutter. All together and they look the shizzle!
Finally I could assemble the engine for the first time and it actually turn a full revolution, took a few weeks working late nights after work to get this far, Oh the satisfaction.
Looking Good.
On to the next stage, fitting the intermediate shaft. The OEM shaft is actually pretty shocking to be honest. Its so unbalanced its scary when it turns on the lathe. The problem I had was that cylinder 4 was catching the oil pump drive gear so i needed to remove about 5mm from the back face to make it work. Also the shaft is tapered and ran far to close to the rod in cylinder 1 so i took the taper out, once it was done it span alot nicer than before.
Before
Before
After, Notice the shaft also, this is the same diameter all the way along.
And the last internal modification was to oil squirter in cylinder 4, see the block picture below you can see the base for cylinder 4 is higher up the block therefore making the oil squiter closer to the piston (you can't really tell from the pic so you will just have to believe me, it did connect so I had to sort it out, I had to be real careful because if i raised it up to much the timing wheel on the crank would eat it.
This picture was taken before surgery so you can't see what I had to grind away.
Notice how there is a small notch in the piston skirt to provide as much clearance as possible for the squirter
Then as an extra precaution i ground down the over hanging lip of the squirter, sorry about the pic.
That about covers the work to date on the bottom end, I need to decide which flywheel & Clutch to go with so I can get the entire rotating assembly balanced and finally assembled, Don't even dare suggest a new dual mass unit, this thing would kick the poop out of it.
Any one care to estimate the crank horsepower at around 20 PSI? Maybe we could run a sweepstake.
I hope all that makes sense! I haven't proof read it so apologies if some of its crap!
Next I will detail the cylinder head build up, If anyone wants to see anything in particular then please ask I have lots of pics.
I will part with a comparison shot of the K03 turbo next to the GT30R! Enjoy