If the battery is in healthy condition and the compression is within spec then it would start without glow plugs...
If you're down this way mate I would be more than happy to give you a hand
hmmm sounds to me like you are getting a very small ammount of air entering the fuel system, thats why over time it is taking a while for the fuel to pick back up.
Pretty spot on that man!
There was a small split in two of the return pipes from the injectors: this allowed the fuel to run back and meant that after it had been stopped for a while it needed to crank new fuel up to the injectors.
I'll have to wait till tomorrow to know for sure, so fingers crossed!
Also does that mean you'll be better on fuel now?
Timing is out or coolant temp. sensor is duff. Either will ****** the timing to such extent that it wont fire on first crank. I would rule out the loss of compression as its starts ok on a cold engine. Would not hurt to take the rocker cover off on both sides of the cylinder banks and see how the cams are...Your issues are a bit different to mine. Mine seems to start ok(ish) in the mornings - it's later in the day that it's not so good. I parked it at work this morning, and just over ten hours later went to start it and it wound for ages before firing, and chucked out loads of smoke.
Why is starting later in the day different to the mornings? I don't know.
Will be back to the garage next week.
Timing is out or coolant temp. sensor is duff.
Pretty spot on that man!
There was a small split in two of the return pipes from the injectors: this allowed the fuel to run back and meant that after it had been stopped for a while it needed to crank new fuel up to the injectors.
I'll have to wait till tomorrow to know for sure, so fingers crossed!
Still not fixed though ....
Econ will probably just be low gas. Who charged it last time? If it was Kwik fit, apparnetly they put in a small amount.
The ECU determines the time the glow plugs remain energised by measuring the coolant temp. If thats duff (it does have 4 pins: 2 for the gauge and 2 for the ECU) and the engine thinks is too hot, then the glow plugs wont stay on for long hence the hard to start engine. If the CTS is duff, the advance solenoid does not get engaged and the ECU wont inject more to warm up the cylinders(like choke on older engines). If the signals from the CTS are outside the limits, then the ECU will disregard it alltoghether and take its readings from the fuel temp. sensor. These engines have a closed loop information system and the ECU monitors them all. When one fails it might work trough other sensors-allbeit at reduced power(aka- Limp Mode)- or it will shut the engine down. As i said in previous posts: check the timing, take rocker covers off and check the cams and lifters for wear(they known to wear wich means at times some engines will use 1-2 out of 4 valves per cylinder ! Also hard starts from cold could be due to the injector pump and it will flag a code when the pump cannot provide more advance and fuel pressures. Do a google search for VP44 pumps/dead codes. Worn injector nozzles also could lead to hard to start engines from cold but they should work fine to 200k. Also check that you have an air tight fuel system and replace the fuel filter with a genuine/Henghst item and make shure you replace the 1 way plastic valve from the filter. Also pay atention to the leak off injector pipes as they will allow air in if they perished.Thankyou. Timing is a definate possibility, why coolant temp sensor? What does that determine?
Yeh I've only had it back a day, so not really done enough starts to judge. It certainly winds over much quicker with the new battery!