Stuck in 3rd gear

1animal1

1animal1

The Clar!! it mouves!!!
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driving to work this morning and accelerating in 3rd....the car got stuck in gear, the selector will move into 3rd or 4th, regardless it remains in 3rd gear even when the selector is in neutral

anyone any ideas?

I reached into the bay when i got it home and the selector on the gearbox seems to have a complete cable going to it, altho i was suited up so didnt really have a good look
 
Have you checked the cables are connected to the linkage at the bottom of gear stick?
 
audi upgrades
not yet, i tried whilst driving as was in a rush but didnt realise there was a second rubber gaiter beneath the leather one :(
 
Had a similar problem on my old A3, broken plastic gear connector (Around the firewall)

I could only start from 3RD
 
Bill had this prob in hi Octy Vrs... selector fork broke in the gearbox.... not saying this is your prob but just be prepared mate...

<tuffty/>
 
tufftybloke said:
Bill had this prob in hi Octy Vrs... selector fork broke in the gearbox.... not saying this is your prob but just be prepared mate...

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...
Ive heard of this too! but lets just hope its the cables...Good luck with it pal!
Oh and RE, the suit! are you gettin married lol...:)
 
cheers chaps, ive resigned myself to it being either side of the equation..... either a cheapy or a gearbox out job....in which case i may aswell do the clutch too :(

and unfortunately the suit is required for work dear sir, and no im not a Paul Bearer :)
 
tufftybloke said:
Bill had this prob in hi Octy Vrs... selector fork broke in the gearbox.... not saying this is your prob but just be prepared mate...

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

whats the crack if this is the case? ie is it full rebuild, should i start searching for a 2nd hand box.... or is it a case of new fork, fit and refit box
 
the selector fork broke in my 4x4 octavia (audi TT 6spd box) which jammed it in 3rd.
cables worked fine, internally broken and stuck
a rivet fails apparently.. replace it with a bolt and steelloc nut and its fixed, but its box apart to do so
 
1animal1 said:
whats the crack if this is the case? ie is it full rebuild, should i start searching for a 2nd hand box.... or is it a case of new fork, fit and refit box
Click to expand...

Any of the above sadly... Bill got a replacement I think but you can rebuild them and get the rivets on the crown wheel replaced with bolts while you are at it...

Just be wary of second hand boxes though as VAG boxes are prone to syncro issues, dodgy selector forks and crappy rivets holding the crown wheel on...

There was a place I found on the tinterweb that seemd to specialise in VAG boxes but can't remember the name... Mr Google may be able to you..

<tuffty/>
 
just bin quoted £700 and free clutch fitting...or £650 from someone who knows a friend (and free clutch fitting too) - both the most reputable firms in sheff - assuming it isnt the cable - will find out when im home :(
 
cheers G...you make the best of it dont ya :)

whats the general consensus on clutch? im thinking OEM but not from Audi...duel mass as im pretty light on clutch's with my driving style....nothing major (like sachs) needed im thinking assuming it is one of the selector forks
 
as in ya have to make the best of a bad situation....meaning in general not you in particular matey ;)
 
Hope it's not a gearbox out job Tim, my selector fork broke a while ago, lost 1st and 2nd so i was driving from 3rd for a few days:) I was approaching a ramp going quite slow went to drop it into 2nd and it was gone, had no symptoms or warnings before it decided to drop off
 
std audi clutch and fly wheel are luk items so if you want to go std then euro car parts do the luk items at good prices, £700 for rebuild and box removal and re-fitting??? thats a good price i paid £700 for rebuild alone at trade price and i had to remove fit box ontop of that along with cost of clutch and dual mass flywheel,
 
yup was revving quite higher in 3rd at the time...then kept revving high to get speed up then free wheeling on the dual bypass's on the way home

righty, had a play and free'd up the gearstick, still wont go, defo stuck in gear and most likely culprit is the selector fork - quite lucky as one time tonight it wouldnt budge at all so thought was gna have to drag it onto a truck, got it working back in third though so might be able to drive it the 10 miles to the transmission place - anyone know the risks associated?

neighbour says its most likely stuck in 3rd and is letting me select another gear (or attempting to) as the fork isnt taking it out of third...thats after having a feel of the selector

anyway, £650 for Sheffs top place by all acounts and gonna price LUK clutch tomorrow (apparently they are the OEM items arent they Kev?) - the plan is to just fit a standard clutch as its handled the map well so far and im not gonna be upping the power massively (maybe FMIC and thats it) - worth touching the flywheel?

cheers for all the help so far

Tim
 
i have LUK flywheel and original audi LUK clutch would have brought euro car parts LUK had i no it was only LUK from the start there wont be any difference in an audi part and euro car parts, im running stage2 as you no with the options you may do and mines running fine no slippage at all so you should be ok
 
is it worth changing the flywheel too ya think? i thought not but open to reasons as to why
 
at my work we tend to change 90% of dual mass flywheels when doing a clutch as there a ***** invention however most arn't faulty but its a moving part at the end of the day and all moving parts can end up failing so for the cost of the flywheel saves on the cost of doing the whole job again, its personal opinon at the end of the day really i decided to do mine but the original was in as good a state as the new part but i did'nt want to remove the box again if it was to fail as it was a pig of a job
 
yeah my mate was looking and said its logged as an 11 hour job..... just priced up, the LUK clutch kit is £150 retail from Euro, but the fly is over £300!! i think i'll leave it as this is an unexpected repair and im skint after just booking the summer hol :(

also noticed the Sachs kit is only £130 but it says doesnt include CSC? what ever that is, clutch cylinder perhaps

do you think ill be safe driving it to the transmission place or would you go for flat bed?
 
csc will be clutch slave cylinder, id not drive it if possible might end up doing more damage could you not tow it??
 
apparently not worth it according to transmission place, depends where the fork fell...... they gave me a number for a cash in hand chap but upon checking he only had a front wheels off the ground trailer - so had to book another cash in hand jobby with a flat back.....they ended up burning the crap out of the clutch aiding the winch to get it on the back - i was really worried as smoke was plumming out.....good job id bought a clutch - ended up costing me £43 (gave him £50 for couple drinks)

anyway, got the LUK clutch for £140 trade :/ and transmission place highly recommended the flywheel as that would have burnt too :( all in all they want £300 trade for the flywheel genuine part....so the total is almost £1150 IF the gearbox hasnt been damaged in any other way

cant beleive this week, just want it to end.....

used the misus car yesterday which id changed a flat at the wkend (planned to get it repaired this wkend), got to the car on my lunch as wanted to fill it up with fuel, and had another flat, had to get a colleague to pick me and wheel up, take it to tyre place, go back n fit it, then drive the car to the tyre place for the spare to be done.....

Works stressing me out......

god sake can anything else go wrong
 
Cars finally done, picking up tomorrow morning - downside? the chap wants £1113 in total including VAT making this a £1300 job - what had happend was the third fork had broken clean off

at least it's sorted, safe to say i dont wish this on any of you
 
well i just rang and challenged as he is effectively charging me VAT on the whole lot, making the flywheel £300 +vat making it retail price!! so got £50 off.....rest im over a barrel
 
what causes these to die then? i thought the o2m/o2j boxes were pretty invincible
 
well normally its the first or third fork which is held on with a strong rivet...... the strong rivet breaks and therefore it gets stuck in gear..... mine had the third fork break clean off, the chap said to me that because its 4x4 then you need to be careful when you apply the power before actually booting it - and said try not to do 0-60 sprints

so no direct blame - i drive very easy on my clutches and always have done

he then made a comment saying ow quick it was and he was sure he'd seen me before almost keeping up with his Gallardo spyder.... i said it definately wasnt me :) - TBH i think he was trying to inflate my ego before hitting me with the bill VAT which was obviously planned - note to self, ask specifically for full VAT price (which i would ordinarily do) - what skewed this was the recommendation from a good mate for a cash price
 
£1300? holy feck!!! :faint:

glad its sorted though matey, the joys of motoring huh?
 
glad your good now, i think we all sympathise, that sinking heat feeling when something goes bang reminds me of when the cambelt went on my mx6 just after having it replaced, i wanted to throttle someone or something
 
yeah it is mate, although dont wana make it easy knowing he can escape the books with it now
 
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