HarveW

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Hi, I’ll try and keep it short but it’s been a journey

Audi S3 8p Manual facelift. 80k miles

it started of with a random and inconsistent misfire on cylinder 1. So I replaced the all 4 sparks and coil packs. This did not fix the issue. It would still sometimes Randomly misfire. Then there would be a lack of power. When I turned the car off and back on, it would be back to normal no longer misfiring. Until randomly it would again. (The engine management light would come on)

Living with this problem. A new one occurred the EPC light came on. I was getting lack of power, if no power at all from the turbo.

i replaced the pressure pump sensor which from doing research was causing the EPC light. The sensor was broken in fairness, and the light disappeared after the replacement and so did the fault.

BUT at the same time I replaced all 4 fuel injectors. turned the car back on and it was great. On idle it ran beautiful and smooth! It revved great as well.

as I start to drive down the road and get about 3k rpm the car just shakes, in complete limp mode. Don’t feel the turbo kick in at all, as if it wasn’t there. The car is hesitant to accelerate. It almost like the car is stuttering. The engine management light comes on flashing then disappears…

I’m lost on what to do next. It’s almost like the car wants to go but something is telling it no.

any help or information would be great. Is it a faulty turbo? Any other tests I could do?
Cheers
 
How's the cam follower condition & the DV membrane?
 
How's the cam follower condition & the DV membrane?
Cheers for the response. Cam follower is a little worn doesn’t seem drastic though. Although I did notice loud clicking/knocking noise come from there.

I will have to check the DV membrane later
thanks again
 
How's the cam follower condition & the DV membrane?
Just checked, and it’s in mint condition. In fact it actually looks new. Again cam follower slightly worn. Anything else you can recommend?
 
Hi. I would advise to get the compression test done. Is it consuming oil? Was there oil on spark plugs? Does it do it from cold or when on working temp?
 
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Hi. I would advise to get the compression test done. Is it consuming oil? Was there oil on spark plugs? Does it do it from cold or when on working temp?
Thanks, this will be something I’m going to have to look into doing next as I can’t see much online. The car has an oil leak, I’d say multiple oil leak. From what I can tell. So it goes through oil. But to be honest the car has only done a few hundred miles in the last 2 years. But there’s a nice oil patch underneath. The car does it at cold and on working temps. But again it idles perfect. And revs. But when you’re driving the car stutters and struggles to move.
cheers
 
If it's idling perfect it might rule out compression issue.
It might be split pcv, pcv hose, dv, boost leak somewhere. Sticky valves from carbon build-up, dirty throttle body, fuel system. The list goes on.
 
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So I’ve just taken it out for a drive. Idles perfect again. Under throttle it’s horrible. I’ve got a video of what it’s like to drive. The engine light comes on towards the end. Also just got the code reader and I’ve got ALL cylinders misfiring



9EEBEC8A 4D23 48D3 A415 FC018566FADE
 

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So I’ve just taken it out for a drive. Idles perfect again. Under throttle it’s horrible. I’ve got a video of what it’s like to drive. The engine light comes on towards the end. Also just got the code reader and I’ve got ALL cylinders misfiring



View attachment 264278

Anyone got any ideas on what causing all cylinders to misfire.
I’ve replaced:
Sparks
Coils
Injectors
Fuel filter
 
Anyone got any ideas on what causing all cylinders to misfire.
I’ve replaced:
Sparks
Coils
Injectors
Fuel filter
Now i know a lot off people say OBD11 brill tool me personally ( genuine VCD's user ) i would recommend getting it checked by this cable and see what fault codes u get . Rearson being is if ur not a RT member and can supply an Autoscan with registered cable i could post on RT forum for answers

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
 
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Have you checked the DV as suggested above? These are known to split.
Also, check the intercooler connections (you will see oil near the connections if they are leaking).
Your symptoms sounds like a major boost leak.
 
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Have you checked the DV as suggested above? These are known to split.
Also, check the intercooler connections (you will see oil near the connections if they are leaking).
Your symptoms sounds like a major boost leak.

I believe there is 2 one at the front by the fan. Which is in mint condition. But it’s there one at the back of the engine bay where the turbo sits?
Yes it does feel like a major boost leak
Cheers
 
Now i know a lot off people say OBD11 brill tool me personally ( genuine VCD's user ) i would recommend getting it checked by this cable and see what fault codes u get . Rearson being is if ur not a RT member and can supply an Autoscan with registered cable i could post on RT forum for answers

Sent from my SM-G970F using Tapatalk
Hi, thanks I’ve got a cable on the way! Hopefully this will give me more details on what is going on.
Cheers
 
I believe there is 2 one at the front by the fan. Which is in mint condition. But it’s there one at the back of the engine bay where the turbo sits?
Yes it does feel like a major boost leak
Cheers
One dv. In front on s3 (k04 turbo).
 
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Just changed the MAF sensor. Idles beautifully and revs perfect. Go to drive the car and it’s got not guts at all still.
Anymore suggestions?
I’ve checked the DV, PCV. All looks new as well, seals look good as well

starting to think that if it’s had a dodgy map and it’s messed up? If that’s possible.
 
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Check your intake pipes are secured properly.
 
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Check your intake pipes are secured properly.
Intake pipes all good. I’ve gone ahead and brought VCDS. Is there a way I can monitor the amount of fuel that’s going through the fuel injectors? As the car is misfiring on idle now and not just under load.
cheers