ASR exhaust valve controller

Hi guys probz been asked many times,..
I have the miltek valve controller uk car. Any ideas on fitment how to take the side trim off?
 
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Hi guys probz been asked many times,..
I have the miltek valve controller uk car. Any ideas on fitment how to take the side trim off?

If I remember rightly it’s just a pop off job.


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A Seletron modified 8Y.

1b49278e4aae81499d624d3b65cd89c0.png



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A Seletron modified 8Y.

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I actually didn’t even think of putting in bypass pipes. That makes it a significantly cheaper and more realistic option for MOTs and things versus removing a whole downpipe that takes hours… I’ll see if there’s anyone nearby that might be able to do it for me.


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I actually didn’t even think of putting in bypass pipes. That makes it a significantly cheaper and more realistic option for MOTs and things versus removing a whole downpipe that takes hours… I’ll see if there’s anyone nearby that might be able to do it for me.


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It’s the only logical way of doing it.
They can at least be put back in.

Obviously two main issues, it won’t wash with Audi if a car had an engine issue, chucking a rod or a roller bearing failure and when the insurance are asked about it, a flat no sir it’ll void your cover.

So you gotta ask yourself is it worth those 2 risks alone ?


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Hi guys, new to the forum. Not particularly related to Miltek discussion, but I’ve seen @8YARWY list the ASR Valve Controller for sale but can’t seem to reply in that thread - is there a way to private message or similar?
 
Hi guys, new to the forum. Not particularly related to Miltek discussion, but I’ve seen @8YARWY list the ASR Valve Controller for sale but can’t seem to reply in that thread - is there a way to private message or similar?

Sorry it’s not for sale anymore.


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Useful thread for a RS3 newbie! Received my ASR controller, now for installing! Wiring/plug connections seem straight forward, maybe it is just me:) but pulling the trim off an expensive car worries the hell out of me! I found useful advice here @TotalTechnik, what have others used for reference/instruction please? Peter
 
I had no error codes from fitting, I still checked for peace of mind, but all good.
In terms of fitting, hand remove trim, socket or combination spanner for earth point, cable snips (for cable ties) and flatblade for popping off the cable connectors.
Only watch out is on reftting the trim there's a locator peg near the glove box which acts as a pivot point. This needs to be engaged with the trim otherwise it flaps about. It's a doddle really, see my pics back further in this post for trim clip locations.
Apologies for reviving the old post, I looked back in the thread and could not see the "pics of the trim clip locations" is that something you could point me at or repost? Thanks, Peter
 
I would like to know if the ASR module will work with an Akrapovic exhaust.
I have the module and it’s working great with stock exhaust, now can I simply swap the exhaust with the Akra and keep the ASR as it is without further work?
I’d rather not mess with the Akra remote controller if not mandatory.
Thanks!
 
I would like to know if the ASR module will work with an Akrapovic exhaust.
I have the module and it’s working great with stock exhaust, now can I simply swap the exhaust with the Akra and keep the ASR as it is without further work?
I’d rather not mess with the Akra remote controller if not mandatory.
Thanks!

I don’t mean to be funny……why not ask Akra direct ?
You are relying on 3rd hand info from internet strangers, 99.9% will not have Akra because of the crazy cost.


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I don’t mean to be funny……why not ask Akra direct ?
You are relying on 3rd hand info from internet strangers, 99.9% will not have Akra because of the crazy cost.


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Fair point. By asking them what all the wiring actually does he may be able to work out the answer himself...
 
Yes guys you are right, but I asked them last week and still haven’t received a reply.
That’s why I was asking here, though this exhaust is not very common.
 
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It’s been hard for me to read through the entire thread. But I’m getting that ASr is what everyone is buying for valve control. Akrapovic has one but it’s got some more in depth wiring?

I noticed that there are 3 different ASR flap controllers for the 8y. There is the “RX2, RX1, and CB2”. Seems like everyone likes the CB2. What are the differences? And do you think they would work with the new APR exhaust?


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It’s been hard for me to read through the entire thread. But I’m getting that ASr is what everyone is buying for valve control. Akrapovic has one but it’s got some more in depth wiring?

I noticed that there are 3 different ASR flap controllers for the 8y. There is the “RX2, RX1, and CB2”. Seems like everyone likes the CB2. What are the differences? And do you think they would work with the new APR exhaust?


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I think for the most part the differences between them are how they’re activated. Off the top of my head the RX versions have a separate remote fob whereas the CB uses the TC button or the cruise control stalk to open and close the valves so there’s nothing additional required.

If the APR exhaust has the OEM valve electronics activating its valves then it will work with them.


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I think for the most part the differences between them are how they’re activated. Off the top of my head the RX versions have a separate remote fob whereas the CB uses the TC button or the cruise control stalk to open and close the valves so there’s nothing additional required.

If the APR exhaust has the OEM valve electronics activating its valves then it will work with them.


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Thanks Dag! I figured it was a remote control type of deal. What do you mean by “nothing additional needed”? Just the need of a remote control? I think I like that option myself vs the cruise stalk. The apr exhaust does have the stock valve electronics so it sounds like it should work. In fact APR has it in their description saying that remotes will work to open fully. (I just didn’t get that far before my comment lol)


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Thanks Dag! I figured it was a remote control type of deal. What do you mean by “nothing additional needed”? Just the need of a remote control? I think I like that option myself vs the cruise stalk. The apr exhaust does have the stock valve electronics so it sounds like it should work. In fact APR has it in their description saying that remotes will work to open fully. (I just didn’t get that far before my comment lol)


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Yeah, that’s what I was meaning with nothing additional being needed. I like it much better that way so I can just pull the cruise stalk/push the traction control button a couple times rather than search for a fob. But some prefer the fob so it’s whatever works for you.

Sounds like it would be a good combo with the APR exhaust then.


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Yeah, that’s what I was meaning with nothing additional being needed. I like it much better that way so I can just pull the cruise stalk/push the traction control button a couple times rather than search for a fob. But some prefer the fob so it’s whatever works for you.

Sounds like it would be a good combo with the APR exhaust then.


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My last question is the SSA version vs non SSA. What is SSA? What does that cable do?


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My last question is the SSA version vs non SSA. What is SSA? What does that cable do?


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I didn’t choose it on mine because I generally leave it to do its own thing to be honest, but it’s for the stop/start system to remember the last setting. So if you generally get in the car and immediately turn it off then with the cable wired in it will just stay off regardless of the ignition being turned off and on to save you having to push the button each time.


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I have the miltek valve controller. 1 big clip and 1 ground/earth wire. Easy job. Hardest part is taking the plastic sill off without breaking
 
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I have the miltek valve controller. 1 big clip and 1 ground/earth wire. Easy job. Hardest part is taking the plastic sill off without breaking
You not have any error codes or anything?

tried fitting my Milltek one.... rear brake, parking brake, etc, errors........ took it out, back to fine....

wrong harness?
 
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You not have any error codes or anything?

tried fitting my Milltek one.... rear brake, parking brake, etc, errors........ took it out, back to fine....

wrong harness?

Someone had this issue with the ASR module early on and it turned out the harness was wired for a LHD and when he got the correct one it fixed the problem.


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Someone had this issue with the ASR module early on and it turned out the harness was wired for a LHD and when he got the correct one it fixed the problem.


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Yup twas I


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Someone had this issue with the ASR module early on and it turned out the harness was wired for a LHD and when he got the correct one it fixed the problem.


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yeah saw that.. the ASr one is a different harness, two sets of connections instead of just one for the Milltek...
model numbers on the packaging look right, and got it direct form Milltek..

nothing complicated for installation, just inline into the green connection and add the earth right?

if that's the case i'll have to send back and hope a different one gets sent..

was looking forward to having Race notes at low revs....
 
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yeah saw that.. the ASr one is a different harness, two sets of connections instead of just one for the Milltek...
model numbers on the packaging look right, and got it direct form Milltek..

nothing complicated for installation, just inline into the green connection and add the earth right?

if that's the case i'll have to send back and hope a different one gets sent..

was looking forward to having Race notes at low revs....

I could be wrong but I believe that the Miltek version is just the ASR module rebranded? Might be off base with that one.

I think the difference comes from us having the version without the fob so it needs the additional plug over the remote fob version. Just making the assumption though.

As you say, sending it back and explaining will probably see them sorting you out. And it goes without saying that the ignition should be off while you’re unplugging things.


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I could be wrong but I believe that the Miltek version is just the ASR module rebranded? Might be off base with that one.

I think the difference comes from us having the version without the fob so it needs the additional plug over the remote fob version. Just making the assumption though.

As you say, sending it back and explaining will probably see them sorting you out. And it goes without saying that the ignition should be off while you’re unplugging things.


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that would be weird..

it did feel like the Miltek one looking like it wanted to inline to some completely different connection blocks than the ASR one was a little odd...

did your coming with any fitting guide or did you get some install instructions?

it could be the green connectors have thrown me and i'm just in the wrong block...
 
that would be weird..

it did feel like the Miltek one looking like it wanted to inline to some completely different connection blocks than the ASR one was a little odd...

did your coming with any fitting guide or did you get some install instructions?

it could be the green connectors have thrown me and i'm just in the wrong block...

Mine was just online instructions from ASR. They weren’t great to be honest but it was so simple I managed. I don’t know if the two plugs are actually the same size or not, as in I don’t know if you could actually mis-match them by accident?


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I have the miltek valve controller. 1 big clip and 1 ground/earth wire. Easy job. Hardest part is taking the plastic sill off without breaking
you plug it into the green ones slightly above where the ASR instructions say to plug theirs? doesn't sound right if it's different to the ASR one if it's trying to emulate the same thing down the same wires..

it's simple fo rsure. did you get the offical install pictures from somewhere?
 
I didn’t choose it on mine because I generally leave it to do its own thing to be honest, but it’s for the stop/start system to remember the last setting. So if you generally get in the car and immediately turn it off then with the cable wired in it will just stay off regardless of the ignition being turned off and on to save you having to push the button each time.


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You said that you use the cruise stalk one? Do you have to have the cruise control on at all times so you have the cruise light in the dashboard on? Or it just functions as normal?


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You not have any error codes or anything?

tried fitting my Milltek one.... rear brake, parking brake, etc, errors........ took it out, back to fine....

wrong harness?
I have pm'd you
 
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You said that you use the cruise stalk one? Do you have to have the cruise control on at all times so you have the cruise light in the dashboard on? Or it just functions as normal?


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It just functions as normal. You can also do a double press on the TC button instead if you prefer that, you have the option of either.


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It just functions as normal. You can also do a double press on the TC button instead if you prefer that, you have the option of either.


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Is there a good video that explains or shows how it works? (I should probably search YouTube lol)


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Is there a good video that explains or shows how it works? (I should probably search YouTube lol)


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Not sure actually. I'll see if I can get a short vid later if I remember. Basically just two clicks of the button or two pulls of the cruise stalk have the same effect.

The reason they've chosen those two options, I would imagine, is because if you're on cruise and press the traction control button it'll interrupt the cruise control but pulling on the stalk twice won't. Likewise, if you have cruise set and pull twice on the stalk it'll go to the set speed which you don't always want, so the TC button is better in that situation.
 
Not sure actually. I'll see if I can get a short vid later if I remember. Basically just two clicks of the button or two pulls of the cruise stalk have the same effect.

The reason they've chosen those two options, I would imagine, is because if you're on cruise and press the traction control button it'll interrupt the cruise control but pulling on the stalk twice won't. Likewise, if you have cruise set and pull twice on the stalk it'll go to the set speed which you don't always want, so the TC button is better in that situation.

So if it’s on they are fully open? Off they just go based on your drive type?

I noticed the remotes seem to have like a drive type selector. Is there a way to just leave them open and never do anything else with them?


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So if it’s on they are fully open? Off they just go based on your drive type?

I noticed the remotes seem to have like a drive type selector. Is there a way to just leave them open and never do anything else with them?


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Yeah, so if you manually open them they’re fully open and if they’re closed then they just operate as normal basically.

If you open them they’ll just stay open until you change drive modes or manually shut them.


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Yeah, so if you manually open them they’re fully open and if they’re closed then they just operate as normal basically.

If you open them they’ll just stay open until you change drive modes or manually shut them.


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Do you have yours paired with an exhaust or nitric mid pipes or anything?


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Do you have yours paired with an exhaust or nitric mid pipes or anything?


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No it’s just running on the full OEM RS exhaust.


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