Well started my MMI3G upgrade a few weeks ago, as in the above pictures I got some of the hardware but still needed further parts and wiring harnesses.
One thing I do like about the 3G setup is the amount of modules that are no longer required.
For the 2G setup in my car I had the following modules installed
Control Head
CD-Changer
AMI Audi Music Interface
DVD Navigation
Radio
DAB Radio
Bluetooth
Standard AMP
With the MMI3G setup for my car only the following modules are required to give me the above configuration.
Information Electronics (This includes Bluetooth, Navigation, AMI, Speech dialog)
CD-Changer
Radio (Includes a in-built standard AMP, and digital radio depending on the unit you buy)
This was my shopping list for the A6 conversion
Information Electronics (Audi Multimedia Interface) Hard disk version
DAB Radio Module
Microphones
New High Resolution screen
Can gateway with software version 0071
Note on the can gateway, you need a later can-gateway for the MMI 3G installation I found a gateway on ebay.de as I could not find one in the UK, and I was not going to buy a new one as the Audi parts department could not confirm what software version I would get, so could have been a waste of £250. So for the A6 you must get the 26pin version with software 71, also make sure the production date is around 2010 or onwards, as there are SW version 70 (A8 gateway) and these will not work
Note software version top right and the production date.
Started by creating the harnesses. I wanted to be able to connect up to the existing plugs so if required the 2G MMI kit could be fitted back into the car without any problems. As my car did not have Bose I had to create a harness to convert the standard Audi amplifier to the radio quadlock connector. For the harness I used an MMI tel-mute kit cost around £10 off ebay, I then hacked that up and purchased a quad lock connector from Audi as for some mad reason they changed the design on the radio module quad lock, Part number of the Radio quad lock connector is 4E0 035 444 and I needed 2 repair wires for the + & - terminals Audi part number 000 979 308 E, all the other pins I had and theses can be purchased from kufatec. Note if you have Bose or B&O system you don't need AMP harness, just the quadlock adapter with + & - terminals and the ring bus diagnostic wire. Also note that you will need to replace the Bose AMP with a MMI3G version.
The other main harness is for the 5F Information Electronics. To get a male plug that goes into the Control head harness I used a none MOST version can-gateway and cut de-soldered the connector from the circuit board, as this is the same connector that is fitted to the control head. On the existing harness to the control head there are power connectors, however these should not be used as the new Audi Multimedia Interface requires a 15AMP fuse so you should run new wires to the fuse box and earth point.
Another harness was created for the MMI 3G screen, on the old 2G screen there was only one connector that provided power and video, on the 3G screen the power connector is separate from the video. So for the power connector it only need + & - terminals. For the video cable I just purchased one from ebay, cost was only £40 and it was not worth trying to make one myself. I did modify with the cable and that was to wrap it in cloth harness tape just to stop any rattling.
First stage of the installation was to remove all of the old MMI 2G hardware, the control head behind the glovebox which is just held in with two torx head screws, once removed I used a straight connector to link the MOST cable together, as you will be using the MOST cables that go to the CD-Changer for the Audi Multimedia Interface. You should also secure the old screen cable to it's not able to rattle around.
Next was all the hardware in the boot including the cage, this is a straight forward job just disconnect all the connectors going into the modules and unscrew the four nuts holding the cage in place, you can then remove the cable guide at the top of the cage. You may need to modify the MOST cables depending on how many modules you removed and refitted, I had 4 devices but only fitted a single module back so just needed the input/output cables coming from the front of the car, but I have left all of the other MOST & power cables in place so I can revert the car back and also connect the TV tuner.
Final part of the old 2G setup as to remove the screen. First was to remove the front driver's side air vent. You need to wedge up the two clips at the bottom of the air vent, you can then us a hook type tool to remove the vent by pulling it forward. Once the vent is removed you can then push out the headlight switch from the rear and then disconnect.
Next is to remove the center console vents, using the same hook tool just pull the vent forward and unclip at the end. There are no clips on the bottom of the vent like on the driver's side.
The buttons either side of the screen also need to be removed, you first prise up the little plastic strips, and you can then use a hook tool to pull the buttons out. I did have problems getting out the buttons on the left hand side and had to push them out from the back, before they were refitted I sanded down the edges so they would not get stuck again. The console is then held in place by 6 screws, once removed you need to unclip the plastic trim the goes around the steering console, then you can fold the dash downwards so you can get access to the 4 screws holing the screen in place you will need a 5.5mm socket to remove them. The old video cable can also be pulled through into the glovebox area and tape up, there is a metal frame running across the area where I taped the cable on to.
Bar just above the glovebox where the old screen cable is taped up.
The wiring harness can then be put in place and ran into the black fuse connector and the earth point below. The video cable was also fitted and ran into the glovebox area and taped up to the CD-Changer MOST/Power harness. The cables were connected to the screen and the screen secured to the console. The console was then refitted along with the air vents.
At this point I changed the can-gateway, on the old 2G setup all diagnostic communication was done via the control head as the infotainment can wires went into that module, and communication to the other 2G MMI modules were done via the control head. With the new gateway which has software to support MMI 3G all diagnostic communication to the 3G MMI device is done via the gateway. To remove the gateway is a simple job of just removing the 2 bolts and disconnecting the wiring, and then reconnecting to the new gateway. NOTE. Once you fit the new gateway the car will go into component protection and a good few things won't work, like climate control and instrument cluster (Speedo will work). Component protection can only be removed by a dealer or a company with a license ODIS unit connected to Audi's database in Germany.
Cars original gateway, most of the A6 gateways on ebay are software versions 0060 like mine.
I then connected up the harness for the Audi Multimedia Interface connect up the positive connector to the black fuse connector and the earth point below. The harness was then connected to the old control head connector and the taped up to the CD-Changer MOST/Power harness, and the extra harness was connected for the CD-Changer that was going to be fitted.
Next I ran a new cable fakra navigation cable to go from the existing point in the boot to the front of the car. I already had a real of cable and a crimp tool, so just had to purchase a couple of fakra RG174 connectors. The cable was ran behind the boot trim and down behind the rear passenger seat and run under the passenger side lower trim, the cable was then cut to side and connector place on the end and buzzed out to make sure there were no shorts. All the fakra components can be purchased here
Co-Star - Specialists in Engineering Consumables & Communications Equipment
Final cable to run in was the microphone cable, I used a 6 core cable as I fitted both left and right microphones and also wanted spare cabling so I could connect the Bose microphone wires if fitted at a later date. I ran the cable behind the pillar trim, behind the airbag and into the front interior light. I had to remove the sun visor just so I could pull down the head lining a little to pull the cable through