massive vibration and epc light?

JUS3IN

JUS3IN

14.0 @ 98mph 2s 60ft
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hi all, new problem with the s3, was just pulling back into my village when I gained a 'massive' vibration as if I had attacted an extra kilo to one piston, it was banging also, similar to when you blow a cv? sounds pretty serious but hopefully not?
nursed it up the road and she stalled on the drive entrance as I opened the gate, then started again and I reversed in.... it done this off throttle after a mildly spirited run through the lanes, no redlining or such. turned her on and off a few times on the drive and the engine sounds good, although sometimes it would rev of the throttle and other times it would do nothing as if I wasn't pushing it, I know epc is electronic pedal control but these symptoms seem much more serious than pedal failer or am I wrong? prob something else interfering with the epc working properly? doesn't seem to be knocking at all, still vibrates with the clutch in tho and I had no oil lights on so I'm thinking maybe dmf failure possibly, gonna plug her in in a bit if I can get vcds to work on my new laptop?

any help guys and girls?
 
right, cant get my vcds to recognise my cable on this darn windows ten even if I use windows 8 settings uuuuurgh, any help?

noticed my central locking wont work off the key now and when I turn the ignition off only half the time it turns the dash off??? wtf? confused?
 
right I cant get the damd vcds to recognise my cable, ordered a cheap vag code reader on ebay now.....

tried a few things, unplugged the maf and cycled ignition and disconnected battery and tried no change.
unplugged all coilpacks and injectors individually and all made a difference to the running so that eliminates those I think...
checked fuses on the battery

after some googling I'm thinking maybe cam position sensor gone or my ait sensor and throttle body need a clean?

hoping its not a fried ecu or something more serious.....

no one got anythi8ng to add here?
 
Oh dear, doesn't sound good. Have you had a good look around the engine bay and underneath?
 
JUS3IN said:
right I cant get the damd vcds to recognise my cable, ordered a cheap vag code reader on ebay now.....

tried a few things, unplugged the maf and cycled ignition and disconnected battery and tried no change.
unplugged all coilpacks and injectors individually and all made a difference to the running so that eliminates those I think...
checked fuses on the battery

after some googling I'm thinking maybe cam position sensor gone or my ait sensor and throttle body need a clean?

hoping its not a fried ecu or something more serious.....

no one got anythi8ng to add here?
Click to expand...
Have you looked on vcds map to see if a local user can scan the car for you. :)
 
nah not yet Sandra ta, had a look under the car and bonnet pal for anything obvious, will have a better look tomorrow...
 
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I'm attempting to test com port, its says something like com port detected but no device detected, the cable worked on my old laptop.... thought maybe the power settings on the port are interfering as a read somewhere you can turn off the charge setting. Spartan I only have one port I will check out what you said tho ta.
 
The adapter acts as a com port itself so when you change the settings it only changes them for the adapter when its plugged in. You will need to set it as com port 1, 2, 3 or 4 for VCDS to see it.
 
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well it was on com1 which should be fine according to that link, changed it too com 2 will try in a bit... would call rosstech but they are only available mon-fri...
 
audi upgrades
cheers dude its working, in my car scanning as I write, legend!-)
 
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right I got the unregistered version atm until I contact rosstech to get my license swapped so I cant log anything.


so

16486/P0102/000258 - Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF/G70): Signal too Low
Possible Symptoms
  • Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON
  • Loss of Power
Possible Causes
  • Wiring and/or Connector(s) from/to Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF/G70) faulty
  • Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF/G70) faulty
Possible Solutions
  • Check Wiring and/or Connector(s) from/to Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF/G70)
  • Check/Replace Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF/G70)
Special Notes
  • In MY 1995-2002 (?) in Europe at VW-diesel-cars G70 had the bad reputation of slowly losing his performance, causing loss of power. It's not a matter of defective or breaking down, but it is filthy / dirty (not easy to clean). You can check functionality by making a log in [01-engine], [meas.blocks-08], group 003 (3e gear, full throttle, from 1700-4000rpm)

  • and
18047/P1639/005689 - Accelerator Position Sensor 1/2 (G79/G185): Implausible Signal
Possible Symptoms
  • Malfunction Indicator Light (MIL) ON
  • Reduced Engine Output
Possible Causes
  • Wiring and/or connections faulty
  • Faulty ECM
  • Faulty Accelerator Pedal
Possible Solutions
  • Check Measuring Block Readings for Accelerator Pedal
  • Check Voltage Signals from ECM to Throttle Pedal (see factory repair manual)
  • Check Wiring and Connectors from ECM to Accelerator Pedal
Special Notes
  • There are 2 sensors in the accelerator pedal, both should increase in the same direction as the accelerator is pressed but they have different scales. This means one counts from 0 to 100, while the other one counts from 0 to 50.
  • Accelerator Position Sensor faults can be caused by issues with the Oxygen Sensor(s) and it's wiring. Please verify this BEFORE replacing the ECM or Accelerator Pedal. Accelerator Pedal failure is very rare.
and

16622/P0238/000568 - Manifold Pressure/Boost Sensor (G31): Signal too High
Possible Symptoms
  • Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) active
Possible Causes
  • Wiring/Connector(s) from/to Manifold Pressure/Boost Sensor (G31) faulty
  • Manifold Pressure/Boost Sensor (G31) faulty
Possible Solutions
  • Check Wiring/Connector(s) from/to Manifold Pressure/Boost Sensor (G31)
  • Check Manifold Pressure/Boost Sensor (G31)
 
Last edited:
cheers Spartan, worked when I tried again... copied and pasted in, just need a solution now

so I guess I start with wiring, any earths in particular I will check and clean under the battery...

hoping its not the ecm/ecu
 
No worries. Not sure where the earths are without looking at the diagrams. I would probably start with the MAP sensor personally as the readings from that could cause the MAF sensor code and it would affect the fueling which could affect the readings from the Oxygen Sensor(s).

I dont have much experience with Audi running concerns but with all the running concerns I have looked at over the years it was very rare that the MAF was faulty even tho there was a code. Thats not to say that there isnt a fault with it as there may well be but I would be looking at the MAP first.
 
ok, is that the one in the boost pipe before the throttle body, is that the manifold boost sensor?

I assumed it was the sensor in the manifold right behind the throttle body?

just cleaned the main earth and smaller earths under the battery, had the throttle body off and that sensor and cleaned them, cheacked the wiring around the maf and lambda, been in the footwell too looking for anything obvious, no change atm.

what would my cars symptoms suggest, throttle position switch seems likely to me atm, I read they have two but I can only see one in the footwell, a cylinder about -2" across and 3" long!? guessing that's it, is a right pig to get too... is the other on the throttle body?
 
had the battery off again, removed the map sensor pipe and attempted to clean from the pipe as the screws are fecked... no change.

the central locking and ignition messing around is confusing, maybe it is ecu....
 
as my vcds isn't registered atm I cant, will send rostech an email in a bit to get my licence swapped.
 
will check it with the voltmeter, fed up with messing about with it atm, with the ignition staying on at times it is very odd... like its not recognising the key being taken out, turn it on and off again and it will go off?? ****** audi's something is shorting out somewhere I think....
 
well gained aload more codes, piece of silver crap! I had the battery disconnected, then had the ecu connectors off to check for corrosion or moisture and it was dry and looking good.
tapped the negative terminal several times on the battery like I had done in the link above no change.

I thought then like an idiot maybe disconnecting the battery while it was running would do something, apparently it continues to run with both terminals disconnected?? that confused me, gained several codes obviously inc abs light, switched off the abs code in rosstech but the light has stayed on even tho there is no code?
the codes I gained included cam position sensor as before, I would clear them, some would come back some wouldn't, then I would have my original 3 again then others????
wtf, car is very close to being stripped and sold for parts.
 
Booked it in the garage for tomorrow. This has got me beat, hopefully its something simple.
 
Cheers mate, just dropped it off and power steering fluid went everywhere, cv joint hanging out passenger front!!!! How did i miss that!
 
update, mechanic has said the gearbox mount nuts have sheared of. I'm assuming the dog bone mount, he ordered a new mount for 35 quid, arriving tomorrow. the power steering pipes may have broken on the rubber only which he could repair but he cant see till the gearbox and engine are back up off of them, he said he will then check out any further problems fault codes, cv joint ect.

would the broken mount cause the car too throw an epc light somehow??? maybe some wires have been pulled who knows...
 
update, mount supply and fit inc removing sheared bolts £135, 3 powersteering pipes broken, ordered them rubber and metal at £293!! arriving in two days, then he can asses the codes and further possible damage to cv....
what a kick up the balls with xmas approaching!-(
 
popped in there today and it was the gearbox mount above the gearbox!!! they are still working on it atm, gonna be expensive I think.
 
Doesn't sound good!! Definitely sounds expensive tho. The PAS pipes alone cost a fortune on these cars.
 
hey all, got a call today, all done at £748 the receptionist said all the codes are cleared... will know more on the specifics tomorrow, hopefully they have sorted my darn brake light warning issue too.
 
Just gonna wrap this thread up, it was two power steering pipes, gearbox top mount nuts snapped and dropped the box onto them, then damaged some wireing near the battery, they got a specialist in for the wiring at a cost of £170 and he said there seemed to be problems with that wireing already so I'm guessing all that time ago when I was getting loadsa fault codes it was the same issue... unfortunately they didn't fix the brake light warning issue, that must have gone off when they was looking and reoccurred, as they said they had got it off and it was prob due to the same wireing, seems not. The only engine code now is an intermittent maf code that ive had for ages, will get one soon when the bank balance has recovered a bit!-)
 
Glad you got it mostly sorted bud. Would of thought the brake light warning issue would be a fairly simple one to sort out.
 
very happy atm, just been out and sorted the brake issue too! post the details in my other thread... cheers Spartan, thanks for your help pal.
 
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