I'll also run vcds tomorrow just to check the timing and phasing blocks/specs to make sure they are with expected paramaters. 
What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?
- Thread starter Dani_B19
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Lesser desirable but happy ,just a 01217 code to sort
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I'll leave the oil cooler gasket until I do the clutch and probably fit a new cooler at the same time, just saves doubling up on same job really.
Yep, replacing that too.
About to fire up the old bus and see what occurs ....hopefully nothing nasty.
Plug in vcds and check the cam timing parameters too.
Then onto the oil pump freewheel mod.
About to fire up the old bus and see what occurs ....hopefully nothing nasty.
Plug in vcds and check the cam timing parameters too.
Then onto the oil pump freewheel mod.
That first picture had me thinking of an operating theatre with the patient anesthetised, prepped and readied. Nurse, hand me the breaker bar...
Now that is engine porn all day long. Can I say that on a public forum???
After stating I wanted to adjust my wastegate, I did and when I took it for a spin it was as flat as a pancake. I thought I've over adjusted it and broke something but no warning lights so when I crawled back under it a day later and saw this.
First pic is what it looked like before I adjusted, second one shows why it was so flat.
I hadn't tightened up the locking nut and the little run up the road was enough for the wastegate to unlock and come apart. I'm not one to swear but I did utter a few 'oh my goshes' out loud.
I tried to get it to line up and reconnect it one evening in the week and 2.5 hours on my back for all the wrong reasons and nothing to show for it had me in despair. But after sleeping on it for a couple of nights, this morning I decided to try to loop a big zip tie round it to hold it in place, line the male and female parts up and then use my 'third arm' to pull them together and use a long screwdriver to turn the knurled nut and get it reconnected. Wow, so relieved. Yet to take it for a run but I've adjusted it and tightened up the locking nut this time. What a cockadoodle I've been...
First pic is what it looked like before I adjusted, second one shows why it was so flat.
I hadn't tightened up the locking nut and the little run up the road was enough for the wastegate to unlock and come apart. I'm not one to swear but I did utter a few 'oh my goshes' out loud.
I tried to get it to line up and reconnect it one evening in the week and 2.5 hours on my back for all the wrong reasons and nothing to show for it had me in despair. But after sleeping on it for a couple of nights, this morning I decided to try to loop a big zip tie round it to hold it in place, line the male and female parts up and then use my 'third arm' to pull them together and use a long screwdriver to turn the knurled nut and get it reconnected. Wow, so relieved. Yet to take it for a run but I've adjusted it and tightened up the locking nut this time. What a cockadoodle I've been...
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I also noticed the car was sounding like the exhaust had a small blow in it and it had been getting worse and worse to the point where this morning it sounded like it dropped a silencer. So whilst under there for the wastegate I could see black exhaust on the centre join so I sprayed liberally with WD40 before loosening the clamps and removing.
I them cleaned up both ends of the pipe before liberally applying exhaust paste, clamping together and and then ensuring both pipes are as close together before finally tightening up the 13mm nuts. Someone had replaced the clamp fairly recently but they hadn't used any exhaust paste. I then left it ticking over for 5 mins to get some heat in the paste to ensure a good seal and am now letting it cool before I take it for a run to ensure it fully sealed.
I them cleaned up both ends of the pipe before liberally applying exhaust paste, clamping together and and then ensuring both pipes are as close together before finally tightening up the 13mm nuts. Someone had replaced the clamp fairly recently but they hadn't used any exhaust paste. I then left it ticking over for 5 mins to get some heat in the paste to ensure a good seal and am now letting it cool before I take it for a run to ensure it fully sealed.
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Final job of the trilogy was to 'stick' the seat backs using a strong sealant/bond and then clamp tight with a ratchet strap.
This method worked really well on the passenger side, the only difference being that I used some WD40 to lubricate the seat mechanism before sealing up the drivers side.
Now I want do a @Charlie Farley in replacing the cam adjuster and rings and replace the lower suspension arms. I'm scared of taking the infamous wishbone bolts so leaving those well alone until I have to
This method worked really well on the passenger side, the only difference being that I used some WD40 to lubricate the seat mechanism before sealing up the drivers side.
Now I want do a @Charlie Farley in replacing the cam adjuster and rings and replace the lower suspension arms. I'm scared of taking the infamous wishbone bolts so leaving those well alone until I have to
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@ttelracs lower suspension arms are easy... it's the top suspension arms that are a pain... also make sure you don't accidently round off the thread or mushroom the studs of the 2 balljoints down there, it happened to me because at a certain point working in the cold you loose the feeling in your fingers and I was so angry when the pichbolt broke the knuckle, i just wacked the 2 bottom ball joints out so i could remove the complete knuckle. But yeah don't be like me... it'll add unneeded costs (had to buy a new tap&die set with various big sizes as I had to search what size the balljoint studs actually is and what the actual thread pitch is) and it'll slow you down for days because the right die size isn't readily available in any shops ( well wasn't around my area) so I had to order online and they didn't do 24 hour delivery.
It’s all gone tits up , but not a totally catastrophic situation, it could have been a lot worse, but on the case now.
The phrase measure twice cut once comes to mind, but in this situation check your work 3 times before committing to final setting.
yes when i do timing related stuff i tripple check before.... and turn the cranckshaft by hand 720 degrees at each check. stop at every double full rotation and recheck all the timing marks again... and even than I sometimes have to re-adjust the lot. and re-adjusting means start over from the beginning. I made that mistake once and it cost me to have to buy another engine. everything was fine during the check but one bolt holding a chain sprocket wasn't tightened by me but by a friend. my mistake i should've double checked his work. But ever since when i do timing related stuff, i don't let people distract me and tell them to leave me alone untill i'm done.
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Mission accomplished albeit having effectively done it twice this weekend.
The first attempt went well and none of the expected issues occurred and I thought I was cooking on gas at 5.00 pm yesterday, it started the first time and was surprisingly quiet on idle.
Sadly the old bus was just playing with me , a quick spin highlighted poor performance, poor starting when hot and the MIL light was on, not a good end to the proceeding to say the least.
Don't panic I thought to myself, run vcds and see what occurs as a starting point, after all, it had to be camchain / timing related .
Sure enough, engine module was showing ,
At that point, I'd had enough and left it in the garage in disgrace.
So a new day began with renewed vigor, my brain had accepted it was an owner/user-induced problem and I had to work back to see where the issue was.
So spent a good while triple-checking the cam timing of the cambelt/TDC etc , all good and the crankshaft marks lined up spot on with camshaft, with the spark plug out a quick check confirmed No1 was at TDC, so all those boxes ticked.
What that confirmed was that the cam chain parameters were out and was 1 link out hence the fault code, in a strange way it wasn't a surprise to be honest, whilst in the cam adjuster refitting process I thought the chain jumped a tooth but ignored it as just slack, in hindsight I should have triple checked it, still hindsight is a wonderful thing..lol
Anyway, off with the adjuster/chain and everything else and start over.
Glad to say , all done the second time around, and there are no probs with the chain being out of synch etc.
Quick vcds scan was all clear, quick blast around the block and the old bus flies again, another vcds when back home and all good, all specs are spot on on vcds , happy days.
So with all the faffing around the oil pump freewheel mod was sidelined for a week.
Allways something to do.
The first attempt went well and none of the expected issues occurred and I thought I was cooking on gas at 5.00 pm yesterday, it started the first time and was surprisingly quiet on idle.
Sadly the old bus was just playing with me , a quick spin highlighted poor performance, poor starting when hot and the MIL light was on, not a good end to the proceeding to say the least.
Don't panic I thought to myself, run vcds and see what occurs as a starting point, after all, it had to be camchain / timing related .
Sure enough, engine module was showing ,
16400/P0016/000022 - Bank 1: Camshaft Position Sensor (G40) / Engine Speed Sensor (G28): Incorrect Correlation
At that point, I'd had enough and left it in the garage in disgrace.
So a new day began with renewed vigor, my brain had accepted it was an owner/user-induced problem and I had to work back to see where the issue was.
So spent a good while triple-checking the cam timing of the cambelt/TDC etc , all good and the crankshaft marks lined up spot on with camshaft, with the spark plug out a quick check confirmed No1 was at TDC, so all those boxes ticked.
What that confirmed was that the cam chain parameters were out and was 1 link out hence the fault code, in a strange way it wasn't a surprise to be honest, whilst in the cam adjuster refitting process I thought the chain jumped a tooth but ignored it as just slack, in hindsight I should have triple checked it, still hindsight is a wonderful thing..lol
Anyway, off with the adjuster/chain and everything else and start over.
Glad to say , all done the second time around, and there are no probs with the chain being out of synch etc.
Quick vcds scan was all clear, quick blast around the block and the old bus flies again, another vcds when back home and all good, all specs are spot on on vcds , happy days.
So with all the faffing around the oil pump freewheel mod was sidelined for a week.
Allways something to do.
@Charlie Farley good to see it all is sorted and running how it should... I bet you were dreaming about that chain jumping 1 tooth. At least you knew what the problem was and it's sorted. Well done... next up drop oil, than sump and do the freewheel mod. It's almost ready for the power upgrades!
PS that engine cover is nice mate
PS that engine cover is nice mate
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Dropping the Quattro sump takes a bit longer than 2wd version so wont be before the weekend now, also need to address the oil cooler and seal replacement and filter housing.
getting there slowly.
getting there slowly.
No but they are jobs I’d prefer to get sorted sooner than later if possible, once I start putting thing off then they will just be left even longer.
lol you'll get to it 
... i just now sorted a leak in the rear exhaust box (crack to be exact) and a cracked off pcv pipe.. both are temporary fixes but will address them properly summertime.
... i just now sorted a leak in the rear exhaust box (crack to be exact) and a cracked off pcv pipe.. both are temporary fixes but will address them properly summertime.
Thanks and I remember reading your post, it filled me with dread. But yes, you're right again, the lower suspension arms are straightforward enough.
Just load them up before tightening them up to torque settings.
To get them to sit right and be able to bolt them up simply jack the arm up for the reprint one and jack the knuckle up for the rear one, it'll be loaded very nicely. When I did mine (remember i removed the lot OS) and brought the car in for the mot they did do a free tracking check on a hunter alignment machine but the car drives straight and true.
I just eyeballed the lot.
I just eyeballed the lot.
reprint = front one ... I don't get how tapatalk keeps changing words completely to stuff i didn't type... I hate how it works but it keeps the need to go online on the laptop to a minimum. bar the stupid way it just changes words it's quite oke..
Lesser desirable but happy ,just a 01217 code to sort
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Took some finding unwrapping the black cable wrap they use but I think I’ve found the culprit
Reckon it’s got pinched in the lumbar mech
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01217 short to ground
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Yep, after doing this myself not long ago, it's quite a phaff. Not particularly difficult just time consuming whilst on your back and outside. But you have a heated garage with carpets, cafeteria and bar, so this will be a stroll in the park for you...Dropping the Quattro sump takes a bit longer than 2wd version so wont be before the weekend now, also need to address the oil cooler and seal replacement and filter housing.
getting there slowly.
Yes and I made that mistake on my old E39 as torqued them up before dropping to the ground which led them to squeak and shorten the life expectancy considerably.
Well spotted that man.
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Sorted
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Just about to try the old bus properly since the cam chain adjuster etc work.
Had a quick spin last Sunday but have not used it since, hopefully, all should be fine and I will do a vcds parameter check too, then onto the oil pump freewheel mod and pesky oil leak.
Happy days and its not raining.
Had a quick spin last Sunday but have not used it since, hopefully, all should be fine and I will do a vcds parameter check too, then onto the oil pump freewheel mod and pesky oil leak.
Happy days and its not raining.
Well on a bit of a whim, and not much happening around the house, i thought id just go and whip the turbo off the v6, turned out fine, bit trickier than first thought, ended up taking extra bits off when at first it doesn’t look like you need to. Followed a few YouTube’s, but as always not quite detailed enough and didn’t find one in English that was anywhere near useful. I should make one! Anyway got it off eventually. Nice to know that it can be done, and i’d be able to whip it off next time pretty quickly.
Will get round to finish cleaning it today and tomorrow. Need the car back o the road as soon as i can. I think putting it back together might actually be trickier, so many wee bolts that are hard to access.
Will get round to finish cleaning it today and tomorrow. Need the car back o the road as soon as i can. I think putting it back together might actually be trickier, so many wee bolts that are hard to access.
@Gmac oke so you've opened it (best way of doing it) now instead of using expensive cleaners... grab the wife's ovencleaner (Mr Muscle or Ovenpride) and cover the VNT mechanism parts with it... let it work for 15 minutes than rinse it off. It'll be almost sterile clean... you can agitate it with a tootbrush using some extra ovencleaner on the hard bits. I actually use a cheap 1 pound ovencleaner because it has LYE in it. But you can also use a drain unblocker ( basically any product with LYE in it) as that is the chemical that breaks down the sticky stuff.
I just like the foaming and sticking action of of the ovencleaner as it means less product gets wasted. but when you take it apart(like you have) you can use a drain unblocker, drop that in a container and submerge the parts.. and if you leave it for an hour when you come back it'll look like new... just make sure you rinse it properly. than just reassemble the lot and put it back on the car.
(i had to do this several times on my VNT equipped TDI's, made it a routine with every mayor service)
I just like the foaming and sticking action of of the ovencleaner as it means less product gets wasted. but when you take it apart(like you have) you can use a drain unblocker, drop that in a container and submerge the parts.. and if you leave it for an hour when you come back it'll look like new... just make sure you rinse it properly. than just reassemble the lot and put it back on the car.
(i had to do this several times on my VNT equipped TDI's, made it a routine with every mayor service)
Good tip about the LYE, as i thought i had a can of Mr Muscle about, but i dont, but did find a mr muscle drain unblocker gel, will see if that has the LYE in it, sounds like it will. Will coat the VNT in that and then rinse it off after a bit.
Well as luck would have it… found the cans of Mr muscle that i thought i had! So thats been put to use!!
yeah it took me a while to find a cheap solution with good results... just read the back if it has LYE in it, it'll do the job, cheaper stuff needs longer... but MR Muscle usually has enough LYE in it... just wear some gloves as it turns skin into soap and if you use a brush, put on some protective eye wear. but in general if you let the chemical do it's job for an hour or so... a rinse is all that is needed.
Oww and one more tip: keep the lye away from the cold side of the turbo... as the product eats(breaksdown) aluminium so if you want to clean the core only use it on the side that gets rotated by the hot exhaust gasses... and hold it upside down so it doesn't get to the other blades.
Good tip. I did my Mk4 1.9 Golf vanes using this trick. I think it worked pretty well considering I didn't take the turbo off / apart.
I did test Mr Muscle on an old cast aluminium 2.5 EJ257 Subaru piston I have, and yes, within a few minutes it etched the piston.
