I’d just wait and see what pops up on the uk markets, they do come up for sale just never when one want them, the more you the look the more elusive they become.
What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?
- Thread starter Dani_B19
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Right so let's bring this topic back to what it should be... today i tucked the wire from the microphone from the parrot ck3100 away as it kept sliding out of it's hiding hole when doing some quick cornering... it's now safely inside the a-pillar covering where it already was but not tucked in. Next up is me washing the car as these wet days have added a nice layer of road grime to the bodywork, and the wheels are filthy with it too plus the bonus of brake dust.
:lol: rain or not that muck needed to come off... so knowing full well that it'll probably rain later on or tomorrow, still washed it... nothing special more a rinse than a wash to be honest to get rid of the road grime... the wheels however got the bleeding stuff on it first, aggitated the lot with a soft brush, than used Demon's quick wheel detailer to rinse the bleeding stuff off, than just rinsed them... tada car is clean enough on the outside.
Yep, yet another one of those ever-failing parts, well more age related.
were you suffering condensation in the lamp too?
were you suffering condensation in the lamp too?
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yep, and random bulbs not working in the cluster.
thinking I should probably do the other side as well. £35 from Audi.
Need to get the front bumper off again though, PDC sensor that I changed a while ago is still throwing an error so must be wiring...
It can wait till it gets warmer outside
thinking I should probably do the other side as well. £35 from Audi.
Need to get the front bumper off again though, PDC sensor that I changed a while ago is still throwing an error so must be wiring...
It can wait till it gets warmer outside
I've some condensation in my rear nearside too, not too bad at the moment but I monitor it regularly.
Need to sort my offside headlamp cover too, it is starting to look a bit hazy, maybe get the buffer on it next dry day.
I was allset to do an oil service this morning, twisted at a tricky angle getting my trolley jack out of storage and then had chronic sciatica spasm right down my right leg , thats it now, immobilised for the day..arghhhh
Lol, yep that was me. Still rolling around with 75% Recaro, 25% SLine interior at the moment.
I got a full set of Recaro’s lifted straight out of a B7 and a set of modified B6 ones, can’t seem to get the passenger one working from either set (won’t move front to back)
I’m guessing it’s probably my car rather than the seats. Just haven’t got a spare day to get it sorted at the moment. Driving me mad as the garage is full of seats. Nearly bought the Le Mans 25th anniversary interior for the Golf a few weeks back too. That would be too many seats at that point!
they are just shouting out "fast"
hope they did you a good discount.
hope they did you a good discount.
Allways worth doing .
I did mine in oct 2017 as the audi ones were a bin job, replaced with Genuine Dzus fasteners that I have on my Duke, there a lot of cheap ones on the market that just don't last .
I did mine in oct 2017 as the audi ones were a bin job, replaced with Genuine Dzus fasteners that I have on my Duke, there a lot of cheap ones on the market that just don't last .
jet washed the big dirt of the car this morning as i needed to go shopping, came back to find the car riddled with watermarks... so i am in the process of getting rid of them... just came in to have a break and a coffee...
Yeah I know that pain! Fortunately my local jet wash is 30 seconds from a nice stretch of (usually very quiet) motorway, so whenever I give it a hose down, I immediately jump straight back in and give it a blast (at exactly 70mph, and not a bit over
) down a few junctions to dry it off fully. Saves the agony of trying to remove dried water spots later on! I only ever use the jet wash on the pure water setting though, the chemicals they use in those machines are very aggressive, and don't even get me started on the brush...
Yes the brushes are a big no thank you... but the watermarks shouldn't be on there as the machine claims it's softened water.... it's not though... but at least the wheel arches are clean.
Hi Rob, I like these fasteners, wear did you buy them?Allways worth doing .
I did mine in oct 2017 as the audi ones were a bin job, replaced with Genuine Dzus fasteners that I have on my Duke, there a lot of cheap ones on the market that just don't last .
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Hi Richard .
they are Dzus fasteners, and they are just good quality self-locking fasteners, available in different finishes and lengths.
I use a lot of my Ducati race bikes and they were from that but just happened to be suitable for the old bus under tray.
Had a box full since 2002 so just using ones i had spare.
available on the web very easily, either with a folding handle or plain with slot for flat head driver.
they are Dzus fasteners, and they are just good quality self-locking fasteners, available in different finishes and lengths.
I use a lot of my Ducati race bikes and they were from that but just happened to be suitable for the old bus under tray.
Had a box full since 2002 so just using ones i had spare.
available on the web very easily, either with a folding handle or plain with slot for flat head driver.
If they are good enough for the bike then they are good enough for the old bus.
I got frustrated trying to do the cam follower on the non S-line one over the weekend. ARGH. Two attempts before ordering a set of triple squares to attempt it again tonight.
But after a stressful day with clients and suppliers, I bottled it and will tackle it tomorrow OR Friday night. So annoying as I changed it on my Mk5 Golf GTI, Audi A3 TFSI 8P, S-Line Special Edition Avant, but this one has the banjo bolt and it's too tricky to get at with mole grips. Hateful thing, hateful design but I know if has to be changed as I suspect it hasn't been changed recently. Wish me luck fellas...
But after a stressful day with clients and suppliers, I bottled it and will tackle it tomorrow OR Friday night. So annoying as I changed it on my Mk5 Golf GTI, Audi A3 TFSI 8P, S-Line Special Edition Avant, but this one has the banjo bolt and it's too tricky to get at with mole grips. Hateful thing, hateful design but I know if has to be changed as I suspect it hasn't been changed recently. Wish me luck fellas...
Do the folding handle work o.k on the undertray, ? could be better than using a screwdriver,
What size and length do I need?
Folding handles are fine, just personal choice really whether you prefer the handle or slot , that said the handle have a slot aswell.
best plan is to measure the ones you have and match accordingly.
best plan is to measure the ones you have and match accordingly.
It is now DONE. A combination of tools, common sense, dexterity and sheer ****** mindedness that it will be done on the third attempt, even in the cold and the dark. It took me about 80 mins to remove, 10 mins to clean up a bit, replace the o ring and replace the cam follower with plenty of fresh oil, then about 30 or so mins to replace with the bit@h of a banjo bolt probably responsible for a good 75-80 minutes on it's own. The FORCE was definitely with me earlier.
As much as I wouldn't want to do again, I know I could do this again in the daylight in well under an hour. An extendable magnet is a Godsend for this job too.
Not much life left in this one either and I suspect changes had been missed plus running it too long without oil changes has taken it's toll on it, just glad I've replaced it. The negative is that the breather pipe from the PCV valve to the block snapped very easily and I suspect had been cracked and leaking which could explain the high tickover. I'll do a temp repair with duck tape tomorrow and order one tonight. Such a satisfying job.
Also, I've decided to drop the sump on the Quattro (that made me think of the phrase, fire up the Quattro, Clarkson maybe?). I bought one of those camera probes used in drains and small areas which will let me peer through the hole for the sump plug or the oil level sensor to check the pick up pipe before removing it, just a shame the temp is due to drop this weekend.
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Cam belt/Waterpump change yesterday and also changed the aux tensioner and idler. Managed to snap the fuel filter bleed valve when changing the fuel filter so put on the Black Edition front whilst i wait for parts.
Ordered new front ARB bushes, I have a feeling they are not really in the best shape so just going to replace them too.
OS driveshaft replaced with a stronger new J&R driveshaft... the old one came of quick but partly because the inner cv joint was busted and the bearings came flying out as soon as I pulled it off... anyway 30 min to remove 3:30 hours to get it on... simy because I had to remove the knuckle and the 2 bottom arms refused to line up properly... taking loads of time and tries until all of a sudden they both just popped in place... after that it was 10 minutes and 20 minutes to clean up and put the tools away...
Don't believe the easy removal without loosening the knuckle videos... it just doesn't work without the risk of damaging the cv boots on either end.
Don't believe the easy removal without loosening the knuckle videos... it just doesn't work without the risk of damaging the cv boots on either end.
Both sides can be removed and replaced in 45 mins per side , having done it 4 times in the last 6 months, and a lot more in the last 2 years .
If you jack the front up, remove the drivers side wheel after loosening the hub retaining bolt, and turn the steering to full lock left.
pull the shaft away from the engine end first then move the whole assembly backward so the outer shaft is out of the hub, then just extract the whole assembly outwards.
refitting is the reversal, it should be no harder to refit than remove as it is the same length.
There should be no need to touch any of the other mounts or bolts, or maybe i just have the nack ..
If you jack the front up, remove the drivers side wheel after loosening the hub retaining bolt, and turn the steering to full lock left.
pull the shaft away from the engine end first then move the whole assembly backward so the outer shaft is out of the hub, then just extract the whole assembly outwards.
refitting is the reversal, it should be no harder to refit than remove as it is the same length.
There should be no need to touch any of the other mounts or bolts, or maybe i just have the nack ..
