Washed and waxed the old wagon. New puddle light projectors fitted as the old ones were starting to fail.
What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?
- Thread starter Dani_B19
- Start date
Washed and waxed the old wagon. New puddle light projectors fitted as the old ones were starting to fail.
eBay specials…
2 HD LED Door Projector Puddle Courtesy Ghost Lights For Audi A3/Q3 R8/A6 | eBay
Super bright - The brightest LED puddle lights available on the market. ● When opening the door, you will see LED light projection like welcoming you, and emanating charmingly. High-quality LED - Quality projection film for clarity and longevity ensuring years of use.
www.ebay.co.uk
Good stuff Rob, will have a look now.eBay specials…
2 HD LED Door Projector Puddle Courtesy Ghost Lights For Audi A3/Q3 R8/A6 | eBay
Super bright - The brightest LED puddle lights available on the market. ● When opening the door, you will see LED light projection like welcoming you, and emanating charmingly. High-quality LED - Quality projection film for clarity and longevity ensuring years of use.www.ebay.co.uk
I replaced the seals on the brake vacuum pump today and although I did this job about 2 months ago on the other one, it still took me a good 3-4 hours. I lost another T30 bit onto the top of the gearbox again but managed to retrieve another one I dropped using the magnetic pick up, my torch and plenty of cursing. That alone cost me 20 mins.
I hate this job but with 154k miles on it I knew it had to be done and at least it wasn't cold, wet or windy, in fact a very pleasant day to be working on ones chariot outside. If yours hasn't been done it will need doing as although this one wasn't as bad as the one I did on my SE, it still had loads oil in there as per middle image. There was more in there but a lot had dripped out of the connection at the top when I removed it and yes I can feel there is a bit more bite, not as much a difference as per the SE as the seal on that one was gone and it was just pouring out.
A satisfying job now completed and the seals only cost £10 so a big saving against the £250 plus for a new one. And this is one of those parts little point replacing with a 2nd hand one unless you use that to replace the seals and then do a straight swap.
I hate this job but with 154k miles on it I knew it had to be done and at least it wasn't cold, wet or windy, in fact a very pleasant day to be working on ones chariot outside. If yours hasn't been done it will need doing as although this one wasn't as bad as the one I did on my SE, it still had loads oil in there as per middle image. There was more in there but a lot had dripped out of the connection at the top when I removed it and yes I can feel there is a bit more bite, not as much a difference as per the SE as the seal on that one was gone and it was just pouring out.
A satisfying job now completed and the seals only cost £10 so a big saving against the £250 plus for a new one. And this is one of those parts little point replacing with a 2nd hand one unless you use that to replace the seals and then do a straight swap.
Attachments
Oww the sun is out not raining today, so thought let me quickly go out there and give the car a quick detail... did it but should really give it a microfibre buffing... as the quick detailer i used has a ceramic coating in it too... helps keeps water off the bodywork but it wants hand buffing to make the coat as smooth as possible... i might just take the polishing pad out and go over it... that always gives the best results. oww and the tires are dressed again as I don't like a clean car with dull looking tires.
Today I changed my driveshafts, Shaftec to replace the knackered 11 mths old Apec ones. Not too bad a job, particularly on the NS.
Laying them side by the the quality of the Shaftec shafts is world's apart.
The old shafts will be going back for a refund, and I shan't be using any Apec parts again.
Rob, I realised you said they had a bad batch of gaiters, but they've had their chance.
Laying them side by the the quality of the Shaftec shafts is world's apart.
The old shafts will be going back for a refund, and I shan't be using any Apec parts again.
Rob, I realised you said they had a bad batch of gaiters, but they've had their chance.
Trying to find a rear boot handle / switch / light carrier for my cabriolet.
It’s supposed to be the same as the avant BUT it seems the aftermarket versions, that are plentiful in eBay etc, do not fit as the bit highlighted below that carries the wiring hits the bodywork…
So, does anyone want this? Near Henley for collection but happy to post too.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
It’s supposed to be the same as the avant BUT it seems the aftermarket versions, that are plentiful in eBay etc, do not fit as the bit highlighted below that carries the wiring hits the bodywork…
So, does anyone want this? Near Henley for collection but happy to post too.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Thansks Northpoleanyone need access to elsawin or etka that are up-to-date?
create a new user account here and have access to the lot for free.
yeah you can thank me later as it's online meaning you'll have access to it 24/7 if you use a mobile device
Removed and cleaned the cam sensor, neglected to take a photo but it was filthy with dried oil and with it being magnetic it was covered in a thin hard crust of fine metallic particles. I had to really use a good firm scrub with a cloth and carb cleaner initially, then I used a fine grade sandpaper to give it a good clean. Not so much that it was damaged with over doing it but just cleaning it up to ensure it was clean, looking like a new one. 15 mins later all done. and the car genuinely feels a lot smoother and pull a lot better. Not a power boost as such but getting back to stage 0. I'll be doing the crankshaft sensor next.
If you want to clean or change yours it's the sensor with three pin plug running to it at the front of the engine, Google the location to be sure and it's a 15 min to clean, refit then done.
Even less to do it you're replacing it. I used mole grips to undo as I couldn't work out which was the correct drive and foolishly I just used the same method to replace and tighten it up.
If you want to clean or change yours it's the sensor with three pin plug running to it at the front of the engine, Google the location to be sure and it's a 15 min to clean, refit then done.
Even less to do it you're replacing it. I used mole grips to undo as I couldn't work out which was the correct drive and foolishly I just used the same method to replace and tighten it up.
Just remembered I also removed, cleaned and replaced the camshaft solenoid at the back of the engine near the brake vacuum pump and that was clogged up with that dried black oil and other assorted muck. Very surprising since I had flushed the engine and have done three oil changes. Another easy win as it's unplug the sensor, just two screws to remove (don't drop them, use a magnetic bit) and pull out with a bit of a wiggle. I used engine degreaser then carb cleaner before dunking in fresh engine oil and replacing.
Finally I removed the coil packs, cleaned the metal contacts on the spark plugs and also the bottom of the coil packs so I could see the brass colour again instead of it looking black. Finally I used electrical cleaner and a cloth on the business end of the spark plug as they were less than 7k miles old according to the service book. Unfortunately Bosch double platinum not the NGKs but I'm too tight to to change them yet.
These little maintenance jobs plus the cam sensor have definitely made it run smoother and pull harder, a distinct improvement.
Finally I removed the coil packs, cleaned the metal contacts on the spark plugs and also the bottom of the coil packs so I could see the brass colour again instead of it looking black. Finally I used electrical cleaner and a cloth on the business end of the spark plug as they were less than 7k miles old according to the service book. Unfortunately Bosch double platinum not the NGKs but I'm too tight to to change them yet.
These little maintenance jobs plus the cam sensor have definitely made it run smoother and pull harder, a distinct improvement.
Very nice. Did yours come with an extra bit of loom to plug into the plug from the car and then into the new lens? Some I've seen have that.
Or, literally just plug in from the car straight into the new lens?
Cheap items and look great, I may get S Line logo or the four rings and Audi in red.
I bought a set and have the S line logo ones, they connect to the oem cable no need to change anything you just swap them over.
That is if you have the puddle lights in the bottom of the doorcards.
I changed both front and rear doors.
As above, plug and play solution if you already have puddle lights fitted. Just swap the old unit for the new one. Takes 2 mins at most to do
Pretty boring stuff but fitted a new battery this afternoon. Previous Bosch S5 lasted almost 8 years… time does fly, feels like yesterday fitting that.
I got a Yuasa battery for my Subaru from Tayna a few weeks ago, very quick delivery and so well packaged.
I reserved one at GSF but when I got there it was filthy and clearly been bashed around so I walked away, Tayna for the win.
So the old ones just pop out with a flat blade screwdriver at one end?
I had a similar experience with ECP recently. Ordered a battery for the Golf, went to pick it up and they’d put the wrong one aside, complete waste of time. I’d heard good things about Tayna on here over the years and thought I’d give them a try. Paid for standard delivery and it arrived less than 24 hours later. They were also the cheapest by a few quid on the model I wanted. Would definitely recommend them
I replaced the switch part of the Multitronic gearbox, it had a faultcode yet again... an intermittent one and when i bought the car there was a new switch in the back still in the box from audi... I pulled of the old one an found that it had the dreaded movement on one of the magnets... i compared t to the old one and the movement was over 1mm this causes the system to think something is wrong while infact there is nothing wrong just abit of misalignment of the magnet... so I swapped the new one on, but haven't wiped the faultcode yet...
Whilst it was dry just a good wash.
Garage Therapy wheel wash then Gyeon Wet Coat, Bilt Hamber snow foam, GT bodywork wash - 4 of my go to products.
Tyres cleaned with Gyeon rubber cleaner, another favourite of mine.
Final rinse with a water vessel that purifies the water so no water spots....great in the summer...rinse and walk away!
The good news is that my puddle lights have now left Hong Kong lol
As shown by Rob above, I chose the 4 rings and Audi in red - no circle around the logo.....can't wait hahahahah
Garage Therapy wheel wash then Gyeon Wet Coat, Bilt Hamber snow foam, GT bodywork wash - 4 of my go to products.
Tyres cleaned with Gyeon rubber cleaner, another favourite of mine.
Final rinse with a water vessel that purifies the water so no water spots....great in the summer...rinse and walk away!
The good news is that my puddle lights have now left Hong Kong lol
As shown by Rob above, I chose the 4 rings and Audi in red - no circle around the logo.....can't wait hahahahah
Just took one of these out of the SE, charged up overnight and fitted into the Quattro.
Not only swapped out the older Halfords battery for the Varta but removed and cleaned up the crankshaft sensor.
I neglected to take photos but although there weren't any fault codes showing or pending but 154k miles under it I knew it would be a bit grubby as it was the original. On these, there located just between the gearbox and engine and I could reach and remove it from above without too much difficulty. It wasn't really dirty but a quick couple of sprays with engine degreaser. then rubber with a clean cloth until it was cleaner.
After this I then used carb cleaner and another rub with a clean microfibre cloth and finally electrical cleaner before refitting. An hour in total but if I was replacing with a new one, 25 mins max.
More importantly was the difference which I noticed immediately on start up and subsequently driving it, so much more smoother, better pick up, improved economy and a real difference is noticed once I put my foot down, it feels like it's been woken up.
I also swapped out the coolant and washer reservoirs as they seemed like they had been replaced on the SE, especially the coolant one which didn't have all that old coolant and much on the inside.
Everybody clean or replace your sensors, the MAP sensor at the bottom of the hose between the throttle body and intercooler.
There is one just above the throttle body which I think is the manifold or air temp of the aid going into the manifold, IAT sensor(???)
The camshaft sensor at the front of the engine just above the alternator
The crankshaft sensor as mentioned above.
Next is to replace the N75 valve and hoses as I'm sure once again, although working, it'll be tired and the hoses not maybe not sealing as well and maybe expanding a bit under pressure.
And I want to ensure my wastegate is nice and tight and may adjust that by one full turn of the locking nut.
I neglected to take photos but although there weren't any fault codes showing or pending but 154k miles under it I knew it would be a bit grubby as it was the original. On these, there located just between the gearbox and engine and I could reach and remove it from above without too much difficulty. It wasn't really dirty but a quick couple of sprays with engine degreaser. then rubber with a clean cloth until it was cleaner.
After this I then used carb cleaner and another rub with a clean microfibre cloth and finally electrical cleaner before refitting. An hour in total but if I was replacing with a new one, 25 mins max.
More importantly was the difference which I noticed immediately on start up and subsequently driving it, so much more smoother, better pick up, improved economy and a real difference is noticed once I put my foot down, it feels like it's been woken up.
I also swapped out the coolant and washer reservoirs as they seemed like they had been replaced on the SE, especially the coolant one which didn't have all that old coolant and much on the inside.
Everybody clean or replace your sensors, the MAP sensor at the bottom of the hose between the throttle body and intercooler.
There is one just above the throttle body which I think is the manifold or air temp of the aid going into the manifold, IAT sensor(???)
The camshaft sensor at the front of the engine just above the alternator
The crankshaft sensor as mentioned above.
Next is to replace the N75 valve and hoses as I'm sure once again, although working, it'll be tired and the hoses not maybe not sealing as well and maybe expanding a bit under pressure.
And I want to ensure my wastegate is nice and tight and may adjust that by one full turn of the locking nut.
Well on Friday actually.
The wife has ours MOTd. Failed on a few bits, as we knew we had an off side knock.
OS rear lower arm, both drop links and track rod ends.
Tackled it over the weekend. Did both lower arms and drop links, and NS track rod end. Came apart by hand once the locknut was undone. But I could get the OS off, in a garage now being sorted. But we still have a slight knock, will be doing the lower front arms next.
But the disturbing thing is, we had a new clutch and DMF last year. Silky smooth gearbox change and nice light clutch.
Now the gear change is notchy and the clutch is heavy with about an inch of free play. Wife should have gone straight back in and told them, as if the tester doesn't know, but wanted me to try it first.
We phoned them on Saturday and the head mechanic is playing innocent and says there might be an hydraulic problem now. They did put it on a "shaker plate" what that is?
She's taking it back tomorrow and is prepared for a row with them.
Any one knows what they could have done to cause that during an MOT test?
The wife has ours MOTd. Failed on a few bits, as we knew we had an off side knock.
OS rear lower arm, both drop links and track rod ends.
Tackled it over the weekend. Did both lower arms and drop links, and NS track rod end. Came apart by hand once the locknut was undone. But I could get the OS off, in a garage now being sorted. But we still have a slight knock, will be doing the lower front arms next.
But the disturbing thing is, we had a new clutch and DMF last year. Silky smooth gearbox change and nice light clutch.
Now the gear change is notchy and the clutch is heavy with about an inch of free play. Wife should have gone straight back in and told them, as if the tester doesn't know, but wanted me to try it first.
We phoned them on Saturday and the head mechanic is playing innocent and says there might be an hydraulic problem now. They did put it on a "shaker plate" what that is?
She's taking it back tomorrow and is prepared for a row with them.
Any one knows what they could have done to cause that during an MOT test?
@Pie-eyedpiper you can't blame them for the CSC giving up the ghost... it can happen, worst that happened to me is bringing my car in for MOT without a problem and while the car is idling for the emission test the heater matrix burst... now who is to blame for that? not them surely I left the heating on and it was just fine, so although they had to fail it on the count of that, I couldn't blame them. Same goes for your CSC, it is inside the gearbox, an MOT tester will not cause a probem that wouldn't arise that same day or the day after unless they deliberatly sabotage your car. It's one of the main resons an MOT tester isn't allowed to take stuff of the car during the test.
PS a shaker plate actually is a good tester for finding suspension problems and something only a very well outfitted MOT garage has as a tool to make their job easier and more effective, it also means they don't have to take your car for a drive as the shaker plate mimics bad road conditions while driving, all while the car is sitting there stationary.
So you might want to educate the mrs. before she goes in guns blazing.
PS a shaker plate actually is a good tester for finding suspension problems and something only a very well outfitted MOT garage has as a tool to make their job easier and more effective, it also means they don't have to take your car for a drive as the shaker plate mimics bad road conditions while driving, all while the car is sitting there stationary.
So you might want to educate the mrs. before she goes in guns blazing.
What is a CSC? And why would it go at that moment?
If the shaker plate is good then the tester must be at fault, she didn't diagnose the fault at all. The arms I took off seemed fine, but still having a slight knock.
If the shaker plate is good then the tester must be at fault, she didn't diagnose the fault at all. The arms I took off seemed fine, but still having a slight knock.
When I say "she" I mean the tester here.
She must have noticed something was wrong when she drove it out of the bay, but decided to say nothing.
I just wish my missus had gone straight back in. It's done about 50miles since the test and the tester is going to deny any knowledge of it anyway.
Clutch Slave Cylinder... it can go at any given time especially if the clutch has been replaced and the CSC wasn't replaced. Something that happens alot to keep the prices down, yet people tend to forget that it's an hydraulic part that is as old as the rest of the clutch assembley and is prone to ware(read bearing ). It's best practise to replace it when replacing the clutch after 100K. Most people waver it because it works fine, but since I do all my repairs and replacements myself I do the lot when I have to do a job as I don't have any garage costs, just my time to do the job and therefor i can get all the parts and do the job properly)
and even if your mrs. went straight back they would've said you can't blame them for worn parts that decide to start showing symptoms during or after an MOT test. It's a different story if they rev the engine like crazy to do the emmisions test and the engine goes during the revving or they take it for a drive and they endup damaging the car.
PS if you replaced arms because they had a slight knock... did you check the state of the rear and front engine mounts? 9 out of 10 times they are the reason why the gearbox all of a sudden gets stiff as they are persished and the engine doesn't sit level. ( B7's are known for eating the front engine mount anyway so have a look at that one it sits in the subframe right under the radiator pack). And if that is the case your csc is fine but the gearlinkages are at a stupid angle causing the stiffness... but that wouldn't account for the pedal being heavy.. that is 100% CSC (or clutch master cylinder yeah there is another one that is operated by the clutch pedal, actually that is what the clutch pedal is connected to and sends hydraulicly pressured brakefluid to the CSC that than doubles the input from the master cylinder to release the clutch by pressing in the clutch pressure plate )
and even if your mrs. went straight back they would've said you can't blame them for worn parts that decide to start showing symptoms during or after an MOT test. It's a different story if they rev the engine like crazy to do the emmisions test and the engine goes during the revving or they take it for a drive and they endup damaging the car.
PS if you replaced arms because they had a slight knock... did you check the state of the rear and front engine mounts? 9 out of 10 times they are the reason why the gearbox all of a sudden gets stiff as they are persished and the engine doesn't sit level. ( B7's are known for eating the front engine mount anyway so have a look at that one it sits in the subframe right under the radiator pack). And if that is the case your csc is fine but the gearlinkages are at a stupid angle causing the stiffness... but that wouldn't account for the pedal being heavy.. that is 100% CSC (or clutch master cylinder yeah there is another one that is operated by the clutch pedal, actually that is what the clutch pedal is connected to and sends hydraulicly pressured brakefluid to the CSC that than doubles the input from the master cylinder to release the clutch by pressing in the clutch pressure plate )
Last edited:
@northpole where would one find the CSC? And how much strip down does it involve? Gearbox and clutch out?
It's inside the gearboxes bellhousing, it sits around the base of the input shaft from the gearbox..so yes the gearbox has to come out....
But make sure the CMC (clutch master cylinder) the one that is operated by the clutch pedal isn't leaking... if it does you'll find brakefluid either on the floor mat under the pedal, the inside wall right under it or on the firewall in the engine bay.
So this job is best done when one chances the clutch.
Also check the front and rear engine mounts as I pointed out before but as said, it wouldn't give you a harder pedal, just harder to move gearstick.
But make sure the CMC (clutch master cylinder) the one that is operated by the clutch pedal isn't leaking... if it does you'll find brakefluid either on the floor mat under the pedal, the inside wall right under it or on the firewall in the engine bay.
So this job is best done when one chances the clutch.
Also check the front and rear engine mounts as I pointed out before but as said, it wouldn't give you a harder pedal, just harder to move gearstick.
Last edited:
All sorted.
Apparently (if I understood the garage correctly) the MOT lady had wedged a plastic cover up, when prying etc, and it was stopping the release lever from moving freely.
So the wife will be mad tomorrow. Heaven help them at the MOT place.
Apparently (if I understood the garage correctly) the MOT lady had wedged a plastic cover up, when prying etc, and it was stopping the release lever from moving freely.
So the wife will be mad tomorrow. Heaven help them at the MOT place.
I managed to replace my N75 valve this evening and it was another of those fiddly jobs that suits those with hands of a smaller disposition. A satisfying job and although no real big difference when boost comes on, there is a little difference insomuch as it feels just that little bit keener to pick up. I firmly believe that all these little sensor jobs, spark plug cleaning and this one has gone a long way to it running as well as it can with 154k miles on the clock and has made it so much nicer to drive too.
I found that undoing the 10mm sized 'screws' holding the metal mount that the valve screws onto an easier method than trying to remove the T25 ones that hold the valve onto the mount. Once these 10mm are off I was able to pull the rubber hoses of from where they attach to the engine, not the valve which then allowed me to make enough room to release the clip and free the plug. I could then remove the whole valve and replace it with the new hoses too.
Those stupid OE clamps use to secure the hoses are annoying to remove when you have room, but when in this location where there is such tight access and the visibility isn't good it takes so much time to remove. The replacement hoses had the spring clip ones which are so much more straightforward to fit and adjust.
If you're confident your hoses are good enough to reuse, it's even easier to remove and replace. I took about 90 mins all in, but I did take my time and I kept having to reposition my light as it was dark and outside too. Images of the old one in position and new one just before fitting. I also trimmed the hoses a bit and swapped positions of two of them as the longer one was better suited to connecting to the base of the turbo than the back of the wastegate.
I found that undoing the 10mm sized 'screws' holding the metal mount that the valve screws onto an easier method than trying to remove the T25 ones that hold the valve onto the mount. Once these 10mm are off I was able to pull the rubber hoses of from where they attach to the engine, not the valve which then allowed me to make enough room to release the clip and free the plug. I could then remove the whole valve and replace it with the new hoses too.
Those stupid OE clamps use to secure the hoses are annoying to remove when you have room, but when in this location where there is such tight access and the visibility isn't good it takes so much time to remove. The replacement hoses had the spring clip ones which are so much more straightforward to fit and adjust.
If you're confident your hoses are good enough to reuse, it's even easier to remove and replace. I took about 90 mins all in, but I did take my time and I kept having to reposition my light as it was dark and outside too. Images of the old one in position and new one just before fitting. I also trimmed the hoses a bit and swapped positions of two of them as the longer one was better suited to connecting to the base of the turbo than the back of the wastegate.
Attachments
mate the best thing you can do is buy silicone vacuum lines and replace the lot of those rubber vacuum hoses... you'll be able to get rid of the annoying little clamps too as the silicone fits that tight. (you'll need 3mm internal diameter) and just buy 5 meters or more (it's cheaper the more you buy) but i found that 5 meters is more than enough to do a turbo-ed car and have about 2 meters left(so you got some spare incase you made a mistake and one touches a heat source) ps for 5 meters I paid just shy of 10 pounds.
silicone vacuum lines don't collapse, don't swell up and don't deteriorate unlike rubber.
Annoyingly you are sooo right too. It was only when I put it altogether and I have silicon hose here too. I may do it again over the weekend as now those annoying OE clamps are off, I'l be able to do it in about 15 mins.
I had the issue of the pixels dying on the quattro but not on the SE so I thought I'll simply swap the binnacles over but I quickly realised that the immobiliser is in the binnacle so once swapped it would do that start then die almost immediately. I quickly realised I don't need the whole binnacle, just the LCD bit so I stripped them both down, swapped them over, then rebuilt them back. Not difficult and I did it all from the drivers seat with the minimum of tools too. Took the time to give it all all good clean too. 30 mins in total to remove a binnacle, strip, rebuild and replace.
Attachments
-
IMG_20240302_145007342.jpg -
IMG_20240302_150657416.jpg -
IMG_20240302_150745104.jpg -
IMG_20240302_151300977.jpg -
IMG_20240302_151359242.jpg -
IMG_20240302_152321744_HDR.jpg -
IMG_20240302_152516487_HDR.jpg -
IMG_20240302_152611854_HDR.jpg -
IMG_20240302_153302024.jpg -
IMG_20240302_153336972.jpg -
IMG_20240302_154129327.jpg -
IMG_20240302_145004028.jpg
