Which engine would you choose?

Gavin thyvhhh

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Hi been offered two recently rebuilt engines

First one
Stage 2 mapped at 19psi 346.1bhp 347.7lb/ft tq.

Engine..
Apx fully rebuilt head, new stem seals etc
Genuine audi oil pump,
Oem timing belt kit,
Bam block
Dm forged rods,
Honed and bored and fitted with oem piston rings,
Oem timing belt kit and new tensioner fitted approx 8k miles ago.
New oil pickup pipe

Currently at 160k on the car. 16k since the engine was rebuilt. Has been serviced every 3k miles with out an extra mile done.
£1300 plus
You get the engine, all aux pump belts, inlet mani,

Im throwing in the oem dualmass flywheel and pressure plate (7k) miles and the 630cc injectors if the price is met
£1300



Or




*New Big End Bearings
*New Water Pump
*Every Single Gasket and Seal
*New Head Bolts
*Skimmed head with new valve stems
*All New Exhaust valves
*All New Inlet Valves
*All New Piston Rings
*Fully Cleaned and Painted Block
*Oil & Filter changed then changed again at 200 miles
*New Cam Belts & ALL Pullys Inc: Hydraulic Pully
*New Oil Pump
*New Oil Pick up chain
*New Oil Level Sender
*New Oil Pressure Sensor
*New Iridium Spark Plugs

No forged rods tho but only 900 miles done
All for £800

Which one would you pick?
Am looking to keep car for a while and when all done would like to get close to 400bhp
Any help appreciated






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First one.
Although that power figure on stage 2 is total horse ****.
It's a good base engine. Rod rebuild would cost you in excess of his asking price for whole engine
 
First one.
Although that power figure on stage 2 is total horse ****.
It's a good base engine. Rod rebuild would cost you in excess of his asking price for whole engine

Was about to say, those figures are complete bull.

But what gets me is if he's fudging those figures, what does that say about the build.. It may not be entirely true.
 
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imho neither

If you want an engine for 400hp, build it right to start with
 
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I went for the forged one has receipts for rods and all work carried out
Plus has rolling road print out
How he got these figures was stage 4 turbo pro 4 mani injectors etc.....
I only got the engine as everything else was sold
Cheers guys


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But atleast I know the rods are changed which are the weak spot on these engines
Now to put it in


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DM rods are known to have iffy small end bearings and there is no mention of if they are drilled

<tuffty/>
 
Got a folder full of receipts of what was spent on engine
And what you mention has been done and he spent a fortune doing it all correct
3599b13601ceccda81ff878933ce1751.jpg
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a8bbe35baa284f082e31996504d4e9db.jpg



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DM's are stronger than OEM but if you want an engine to last i'd get those bad boys out and put proper ones in or get proper bushes fitted before the small ends fail. In a race car where oil is constantly thrown around and you are constantly over 3000 revs to allow the squirters to operate and allow "some oil" to possibly find it's way into the small ends the DM's as is will suffice
 

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