What have you done to your A3 (8p) this week

Oil change (Millers CFS 5w40)
Xina special 3" downpipe (sounds like half of a V8 now!), interestingly no CEL yet (haven't scanned with VCDS yet)
Breather pipe replacement (anyone wants to see the og one?)
GFB DV+

id like to see the pipe see what the conditions like lol


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id like to see the pipe see what the conditions like lol
It has disintegrated as I pulled it out so here's a cross section of bottom side. Would recommend checking and changing to anyone whose car is a bit on the older side
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wow i wasnt expecting that lol im looking at mine in a little while, imagine a bit of that getting into the turbo (mines pd engine)


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wow i wasnt expecting that lol im looking at mine in a little while, imagine a bit of that getting into the turbo (mines pd engine)


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a lot of it got stuck in the ribs of the breather pipe, yeah i don't want to imagine that, doesn't seem to come thru the pcv nor it was in the oil separator, the pcv passage to turbo has some oil in it but no crud, so a pcv delete and catch can are next to do,
BHZ engine

oh I did the valve cover gasket as well forgot to mention, that's how I know there's no crud in the oil separator nor around the rockers, well at least not in the 3 outlets that go to the rocker chamber from the pcv (luckily)
 
this is so wierd, ive had an oil leak from my pcv i thought it was from rocker cover, just was at a mates and he said about a catch can but need to keep the pressure in the engine (no filter on catch can etc) so im gunna be doing this too before new turbo im gunna show him ya post


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Finally had time to install fire extinguisher

Seats out
Door trim removed
Carpet pulled back
Carrier base aligned and marked
Step drill to 7mm
Rivnut installed
Base installed
Carpet and trim replaced
Extinguisher installed
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That looks amazing!
I hope you don’t mind me asking, I recently got my hands on an A3 but the carpet is really really dirty and I’ve been trying endlessly to find out how to replace it. Do you happen to have a guide or video that you followed?
 
That looks amazing!
I hope you don’t mind me asking, I recently got my hands on an A3 but the carpet is really really dirty and I’ve been trying endlessly to find out how to replace it. Do you happen to have a guide or video that you followed?
ive never seen an audi carpet that could not be cleaned professionally. unless it worn through try cleaning it. otherwise its seats out, trim removed. tbh its not hard just a ballache
 
31st oil change and replaced a broken front parking sensor

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1.4tfsi, Slight hesitation/pullback at wot. No eml, but just knew it was a coilpack as seen it before on another vag.
Replaced all 4 for £83. Plugs done about 15k ago.

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So this is month two of owning my first Audi (and being on this forum). Absolutely fallen in love with it and have lots of plans. It's the 2.0TDI (170) so not too much i'm willing to do on the engine, remap at some point. This month i've mainly been fixing and tidying up the car from the previous owners. Had some valeters come round and do a full detail on the car just to get it clean and sorted, starting fresh etc... Some other bits i've done below;

Windows tinted
New rear washer jet (old one was blocked)
New Bosch wipers front and rear
Dynamic LED mirror indicators installed (Canbus friendly)
New inner door seal, drivers side (old one was torn and, well, old)
Replaced cigarette lighter with fast charge USB3.0 and voltmeter
Ashtray delete with tray (I've ordered the light bar etc for next week)
New brake discs and pads on the front
New number plates
LED number plate bulbs (canbus friendly)
LED interior light pack (canbus friendly)
LED DRL bulbs (Canbus friendly)
Oil change
New pollen filter (OEM)
New air filter (OEM)
Debaged the rear (kept Audi rings)

It's into the garage next week for a knocking sound from the from suspension. I want to upgrade to coilovers soon but was hoping to leave it a month or two... I'll post some pictures soon :)

I do want to upgrade the headlights to bi-xenon (with the DRL strip across the top) at some point... So if anyone has some units (with bulbs/ballasts) for sale over the next few months, let me know!

Such a great platform here with so much helpful advice! Thanks to everyone :)
 
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Nice to see the 8P is still so popular nearly 20 years since it's been introduced.
I personally think it's the best shape A3 (over 8L, 8V, 8Y), the 8L looks like Skoda Felicia and I really don't like the lights and sharp lines on the newer ones.
So this is month two of owning my first Audi (and being on this forum). Absolutely fallen in love with it and have lots of plans.

Such a great platform here with so much helpful advice! Thanks to everyone :)
 
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Nice to see the 8P is still so popular nearly 20 years since it's been introduced.
I personally think it's the best shape A3 (over 8L, 8V, 8Y), the 8L looks like Skoda Felicia and I really don't like the lights and sharp lines on the newer ones.
Fallen head over heals with it! Especially that big back end!
 

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Had the cam follower, cam chain and tensioner replaced. For now seems rattling noise is gone, will have to check on a cold morning at cold start, because thats when i had most rattling noise for a few seconds. Replaced all seals on vaccum pump since it was leaking. Finished it off with a DIY engine bay clean.


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Have done a engine oil change out and by god it was Black as the Ace off spades but rather easy to do for some1 qho has never done it .
Removing oil filter wasn't as easy as i thought due to needing 1x 36mm socket ( ****** big ) once some elbow grease applied came loose and the filter was well dirty .
Then checked manual gear box oil , it was very clean so left oil in .

Next step was removal off haldex filler plug , seriously not the easiest to remove due to size off plug and the limited space i had to fit allen key and then try to apply some purchase on it to remove but got there in the end , drain plug was simple to remove , oil looked ok but as i had bought the oil i changed it , when filling i had to get a very thin tube and a plunger to push oil into haldex cavity and for some reason it seemed to take less going in than came out , did Vcds basic setting to get primer pump to work and with no errors on dash i have assumed enough oil has been pushed into haldex cavity .
Next job in a few months will be the diff oil but thats going to be a Sh*t due to limited space when removing filler plug . S3 8P 2010

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Hi forum, new user alert! So recently bought this 2007 2.0tdi SE. Decided to upgrade the alloys and was assured they were off an A3. They seem fatter than expected. The fronts stick out a bit more than they should and I’m getting a tiny rub over speed bumps on the backs. They are sitting on 235/40/18’s.
Would dropping the tyres to 225s sort the issue or should I sell these and try and find the right wheels?
Love the car, £1600 for a full service history, full leather, £200 for its mot last week bargain Audi.

Thanks for any help !

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That nut was nuts! My boots need a changing and that nut was causing problems so I had to bring in a bad boy to enforce its will
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That nut was nuts! My boots need a changing and that nut was causing problems so I had to bring in a bad boy to enforce its will
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LOL ain't that impact used on truck wheel nuts?
Definitely bought the big guns out
 
Have a funny rattling noise coming from either Engine , Armrest or AC assembley so time to investigate furrher , 1st armrest out .
Oh another thing i found a 8" extension bar inbetween my rad & block which i found when changing haldex oil and it looks like it had been there for sometime going by the rust on it .

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Start/stop not been working consistently for ages now and chalked it up to regens/dpf but seemed like it should do it at least some of the time. Had a hunch recently it might be the battery as still the original (2011). Bought a new varta battery last week. Went to fit it Saturday, got the old one unplugged but then couldn't undo the 13mm retaining bolt as only had a crappy hex socket bit with a screwdriver extension...not enough torque... and ofc in removing the socket it fell and condemned to the engine pan....lol

Quick bolt back on of the terminals and a drive to b&q and picked up a socket set. Tried again Sunday and took the old one out with ease, got the new battery installed, then coded it in (19 gateway) ,just needed the Ah, manufacture code VA0 and put the serial as the date with two additional zeros.

So far so good! Start stop working as it did 5+years ago, ignition seems stronger. Happy days! Saved myself a few quid with the battery coming in at £127 delivered :D
 
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Have a funny rattling noise coming from either Engine , Armrest or AC assembley so time to investigate furrher , 1st armrest out .
Oh another thing i found a 8" extension bar inbetween my rad & block which i found when changing haldex oil and it looks like it had been there for sometime going by the rust on it .

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Have now found out what the rattling is looks like it's coming from the Camshaft Chain and after using Vcd's i have found my chain has stretched a fair bit as i am getting a reading from camshft thingy telling me i am -5.9° and going by Ross-tech forum member is should be sitting between -3/4° .
So will be going in to garage next week so it can be sorted and while its in garage i will be getting Cambelt changed out 2 .

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New anti roll bars H&R
26mm at the front and 22mm at the rear.

oem dimension 22,5mm front and 21mm rear.
Anti roll front

Anti roll rear
 
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Not exactly this week, but I wrapped my downpipe. I can't tell whether it resulted in any immediate power improvement since we do not have such enthusiast remappers here that would do a good priced dyno run in between mods (would genuinely be interested to see, although don't expect measurable performance improvement from this).

HOWEVER, what is noticeable is the middle tunnel not feeling like it's on fire after spirited drive, with OE pipe I could feel the heat on my left leg, the 3" is even closer to the walls but the wrap really makes a difference. For now only the curved portion is wrapped, but I will do the rest as well.
If I was to do this again I would bolt it to the bench and criss-cross overlay the wrap.

I cannot but recommend. Just make sure to steel cable tie and tuck any lose ends.

Can't recommend a particular make of wrap, they're literally all made in land of copy plenty (or at least those sold by the usual suspects).
Wear gloves and eye protection, maybe even a mask, and long sleeve, the fiberglass gets everywhere.
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During the weekend I will install turbo blanket as well, test fit:
Screenshot 20221116 113618 Signal


As said, right now with the current setup I don't expect significant performance improvement, rather keeping the heat where it's suppose to be.
Turbo blanket study (they used 6L engine in that): https://repositories.lib.utexas.edu/handle/2152/43718
 
Had the tandem pump gasket replaced, oil and filter change.
 
Now i have had Cam Chain & tensioner changed plus cam belt + water pump. Car drives more smoothly and at least i have piece off mind that my chain will hopefully last another 80,000 miles .

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Not exactly this week, but I wrapped my downpipe. I can't tell whether it resulted in any immediate power improvement since we do not have such enthusiast remappers here that would do a good priced dyno run in between mods (would genuinely be interested to see, although don't expect measurable performance improvement from this).

HOWEVER, what is noticeable is the middle tunnel not feeling like it's on fire after spirited drive, with OE pipe I could feel the heat on my left leg, the 3" is even closer to the walls but the wrap really makes a difference. For now only the curved portion is wrapped, but I will do the rest as well.
If I was to do this again I would bolt it to the bench and criss-cross overlay the wrap.

I cannot but recommend. Just make sure to steel cable tie and tuck any lose ends.

Can't recommend a particular make of wrap, they're literally all made in land of copy plenty (or at least those sold by the usual suspects).
Wear gloves and eye protection, maybe even a mask, and long sleeve, the fiberglass gets everywhere.
View attachment 261204View attachment 261205

View attachment 261207

During the weekend I will install turbo blanket as well, test fit:
View attachment 261208

As said, right now with the current setup I don't expect significant performance improvement, rather keeping the heat where it's suppose to be.
Turbo blanket study (they used 6L engine in that): https://repositories.lib.utexas.edu/handle/2152/43718

I also have my 3.5” DP heatwrapped and there definitely is a power benefit imho with all the research i done plus as your said you dont feel the heat in the mid tunnel low. I also wanted to install a turbo blanket as opening the bonnet after any drive is a 50 degree slap in the face so I asked guys at Aks tuning and Niki at Rtech and they both didn’t recommend using a turbo blanket on these s3 due to the turbo being at the back of the engine as the turbo blank will keep majority of the heat in the turbo and away from the intake pipe which the main purpose at a downside of running the risk of cracking the turbo housing on a stock Ko4
And its only ideal if turbo is at the front as you will have airflow to assist with cooling or if running big turbo built to take a serious beating


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I also have my 3.5” DP heatwrapped and there definitely is a power benefit imho with all the research i done plus as your said you dont feel the heat in the mid tunnel low. I also wanted to install a turbo blanket as opening the bonnet after any drive is a 50 degree slap in the face so I asked guys at Aks tuning and Niki at Rtech and they both didn’t recommend using a turbo blanket on these s3 due to the turbo being at the back of the engine as the turbo blank will keep majority of the heat in the turbo and away from the intake pipe which the main purpose at a downside of running the risk of cracking the turbo housing on a stock Ko4
And its only ideal if turbo is at the front as you will have airflow to assist with cooling or if running big turbo built to take a serious beating


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I doubt I have much performance gain from the dp heat wrap https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/power-mods-specs-remapper-and-graphs.279013/post-3779264, it's the fiberglass one, not ceramic coating or sandwich of materials like the more expensive are. I had a look at it at the weekend how it holds up well, I expected it to be all scorched and brittle but it's just fine.

Re the tb:
1672923367760

This is the tb I have (Pic borrowed from allstarmotorsports), since the whole turbo isn't covered a slight increase in temp may show on the hot side but wouldn't really expect it to linger there much more than it does already. If anything the overall engine bay temp will decrease. See the link to the research by UTexas attached to previous post.

How would airflow assist with cooling when the turbo is wrapped anyway, it's not like the blanket is that breathable that it would allow retain heat inside yet allowed
for cooling from outside. Turbos are designed to withstand extreme temps. As long as you don't shut off the engine after hard drive then it should be ok.

Gonna stick it in at the weekend.
 
Have now found out what the rattling is looks like it's coming from the Camshaft Chain and after using Vcd's i have found my chain has stretched a fair bit as i am getting a reading from camshft thingy telling me i am -5.9° and going by Ross-tech forum member is should be sitting between -3/4° .
So will be going in to garage next week so it can be sorted and while its in garage i will be getting Cambelt changed out 2 .

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Have you changed the belt and chain with tensioner before and if so when ? And what whats the difference in mileage between the two


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I doubt I have much performance gain from the dp heat wrap https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/power-mods-specs-remapper-and-graphs.279013/post-3779264, it's the fiberglass one, not ceramic coating or sandwich of materials like the more expensive are. I had a look at it at the weekend how it holds up well, I expected it to be all scorched and brittle but it's just fine.

Re the tb:
View attachment 262697
This is the tb I have (Pic borrowed from allstarmotorsports), since the whole turbo isn't covered a slight increase in temp may show on the hot side but wouldn't really expect it to linger there much more than it does already. If anything the overall engine bay temp will decrease. See the link to the research by UTexas attached to previous post.

How would airflow assist with cooling when the turbo is wrapped anyway, it's not like the blanket is that breathable that it would allow retain heat inside yet allowed
for cooling from outside. Turbos are designed to withstand extreme temps. As long as you don't shut off the engine after hard drive then it should be ok.

Gonna stick it in at the weekend.

Not sure like i said i wanted to do this too but when i asked about it only because i saw no one else put a TB on an 8p S3 they said the stock turbo will get too hot and probably split the housing and it was good enough to convince me and its not worth it unless your using a hybrid or a big turbo.
Non the less please let me know how it goes and what the first
Drive is like compared to before as I’m sure a-lot of us may follow my self included :)


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Finally had some time this week to work on the car… Installed a Ramair induction kit. I know there’s lots of controversy around whether it’s good or bad/hot air/cold air/no gains etc. Especially being a 2.0 TDI (170), BUT I love being able to hear the turbo finally, if nothing else. It does feel a little better on the throttle response side but that may just be a placebo.
I also installed the Xtrons IQ Headunit which was a bit of a wiring nightmare, but all in and working lovely without having to chop into everything.
I also got around to installing my LED rear indicator bulbs which means I’m only missing the brake light bulbs before the whole rear cluster is LED and canbus error free. If anyone has any tips on where to buy canbus free brake light bulbs, please let me know!
Pic attached for Xtrons wiring loom of death.
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The final chapter in LED color change for the dash and components is done and dusted. Now onto the doors. After tackling that RNSE, I welcome the ease of the doors. RNSE is all 0805 and need to use a solder heatgun and solder paste. Those 0805 are high maintenance and dont like to be man handled. Its not hard to do just need time and patience
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I removed the downpipe from the car just enough to hammer out the pre-cat over the weekend. By this I mean it was still on the car but angled enough so I could knock out the pre cat material with a hammer and large screwdriver and have it fall out onto the floor and not into the exhaust to clog the cat. Heavy rain stopped play Saturday evening, so finished it Sunday, still in the rain but not as heavy and since most of it was underneath the car, I didn't get too wet. On a dry day and removing the 02 sendo

If I was to do it again, I would remove the O2 sensor first before trying to slide it out from underneath the car, a schoolboy error I blame on the weather... I've attached some of what I knocked out, the rest was in very small fragments and dust. It is essentially a very small honeycomb material designed to help the main cats warm up but it's not tested here in the UK so not needed.

My previous car was a Golf GTI stage 1.5 which I fitted a 3 inch downpipe which allowed it to breathe and run so much better, this is a more noticeable difference, probably because this engine has almost 190k mileage so I don't want to spend too much on it. A definite mod worth doing in my opinion as it is one you can do on your driveway ( I did) and it's essentially free as you can use the same gasket and bolts. In driving terms it's like a mild remap on my car OR if I'm being skeptical like it only has 19k miles on it and has been nicely run in. This will work on all models with the pre cat but can't comment on diesels as I don't know if they have one.

On a dry day and removing the 02 sensor I think I could do this in under 2 hours, but this weekend I think it took me about 6 hours in total over the two days.
 

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Have decided to change my D3S bulbs to LED's, am using a 360º KED unit which doesn't give black spots like on regular Satsuma Motor, Lawn Mower, and Dangerous Toy Company, Kyoto, Japan LED's that only have LED diodes on 2 sides. Waiting for night to go and take them for a spin on Jason Vorhees day :rockwoot:

Used the "go in through the wheelarch" method instead of the usual "bumper off" method, was all done in under 2hrs
 
Fitted a washer cap used from the newer skodas. The design is a funnel, making easier to pour water in. Bought mine from aliexpress for 3 quid, but genuine isn't much more. Part no. 6v0955485

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