A4 B5 Avant.

[Andy avant b5]

OK cheers mate

 

[Pro-cookie]

Patience is key! Only real problem I had was the nylock nut on the shaft, had to buy a impact driver. Also, changing to coilovers has made me realise how many other parts needed changing, the harder ride brought out the worst in my older parts, especially at the front.

That’s strange you should say that as mine has made the ride feel much smoother.
I’m sure I’m going to have to replace some bush’s soon though too.

 

[Final 3Green Land]

I only ask as I’ve just fitted the prosport coilovers and I’ve got such a loud knocking sound from the top mounts, no idea why.

Look at the rear top curved arms. mine had been installed the wrong way round and was catching the spring... Sounds like yours are doing the same thing. (Could even be he fronts or both; if the curve is fitted the wrong way round they will foul the spring)

 

[Kylekfa4]

Look at the rear top curved arms. mine had been installed the wrong way round and was catching the spring... Sounds like yours are doing the same thing. (Could even be he fronts or both; if the curve is fitted the wrong way round they will foul the spring)

I sorted it. Needed an impact driver for the nylock nut, didn’t get it tight enough with the ratchet!

 

[Andy avant b5]

Yeah need a impact driver just spins without

 

[Final 3Green Land]

Sounds like the arms are on their way out if they cannot be tightened with out an application of shock....


I will look and see which arms I brought and then you can AVOID these ones as, although they are advertised as HD, they are in fact made of warm brie!!

 

[Kylekfa4]

Sounds like the arms are on their way out if they cannot be tightened with out an application of shock....


I will look and see which arms I brought and then you can AVOID these ones as, although they are advertised as HD, they are in fact made of warm brie!!

It’s the shaft on the shock, it just spins unless you tighten the bolt with impact. It’s actuslly understandable when you do it yourself.

 

[Final 3Green Land]

That makes things a little clearer...

As you reposted my last, I thought you were referring to the fact that it was the upper arms that needed a shock treatment to tighten them...

If that was the case, then more often than not, they would be on their way out... But if you are just talking about the main strut, it makes more sense.

But, the main shocker should either have a flat on the top or a hex key you use to hold the strut in position when you tighten the lock nut up... Not really sure why you should need an impact/shock driver to do the job... Just hold the shaft still by using a spanner/adjustable on the flat or use the relevant HEX key, whichever is appropriate, to hold the shaft steady, whilst using a ring spanner on the Nylock to tighten the nut.

I have worked on hundreds of different suspension changes and a large number of A4, B5 suspension changes, (well in excess of fifty) and probably the same on the B6's Audi A6's etc. and so on, but have never, ever, used an impact driver to tighten the top nut.

I am a trained Mechanic and a Forensic Consulting Engineer (read Vehicle Examiner) for the Police and other law enforcement/prosecution agencies so give you good advice.

And I have done the same operation as you describe, myself, on many occasions but using the correct procedures.

Be careful of using impact tools on things they were not intended for... You can easily massively over torque, and the result of that will normally end in failure...

I don't need to tell you the usual result of that... just think of an unexpected knock on the door at 2 am...

 

[Kylekfa4]

Well I’m not, I’m a mercenary soldier with limited mechanical knowledge. I point guns at Somalian pirates who try and take things in paid to look to after.

However after struggling with this such brand, it was the only advice that was given to me by people that have this said brand. So I tried it, it worked and it still works brilliantly.

I dont really want to be thinking about that ‘unexpected knock at the door at 2am scenario’

 

[Final 3Green Land]

I have two Audi A4's

A B5 1.9 TDi Avant FWD with 190BHP and 300 Lb/ft and a B6 Avant TQS TDi 180, and know the brand more than you might know, having done 300,ooo miles plus in the B5 and 220,000 miles plus in the B6, and have serviced and maintained both myself from 50,000 miles on wards apart from the one B5 Front arm change I mentioned that the garage got wrong.

My advice is on experience and knowledge.

I'm not into willy waving contests so wont post again.

I was purely trying to point out that your mentioned practices were not the recommended, and at the end of the day, more than likely unsafe.

It just goes to show you can't educate pork.

 

[Kylekfa4]

I have two Audi A4's

A B5 1.9 TDi Avant FWD with 190BHP and 300 Lb/ft and a B6 Avant TQS TDi 180, and know the brand more than you might know, having done 300,ooo miles plus in the B5 and 220,000 miles plus in the B6, and have serviced and maintained both myself from 50,000 miles on wards apart from the one B5 Front arm change I mentioned that the garage got wrong.

My advice is on experience and knowledge.

I'm not into willy waving contests so wont post again.

I was purely trying to point out that your mentioned practices were not the recommended, and at the end of the day, more than likely unsafe.

It just goes to show you can't educate pork.

 

[Kylekfa4]

You can’t educate pork, correct. But it’s hard to comprehend over one or two messages and not knowing the exact detail, however I don’t doubt your experience, good for you.

As I state, I’m no engineer, I merely posted what advice I was given on here in regards to the problem. By people with that brand fitted.

Bigger fools us! Damn our inability to work safely.

Good luck with your Audi’s!

That makes things a little clearer...

As you reposted my last, I thought you were referring to the fact that it was the upper arms that needed a shock treatment to tighten them...

If that was the case, then more often than not, they would be on their way out... But if you are just talking about the main strut, it makes more sense.

But, the main shocker should either have a flat on the top or a hex key you use to hold the strut in position when you tighten the lock nut up... Not really sure why you should need an impact/shock driver to do the job... Just hold the shaft still by using a spanner/adjustable on the flat or use the relevant HEX key, whichever is appropriate, to hold the shaft steady, whilst using a ring spanner on the Nylock to tighten the nut.

I have worked on hundreds of different suspension changes and a large number of A4, B5 suspension changes, (well in excess of fifty) and probably the same on the B6's Audi A6's etc. and so on, but have never, ever, used an impact driver to tighten the top nut.

I am a trained Mechanic and a Forensic Consulting Engineer (read Vehicle Examiner) for the Police and other law enforcement/prosecution agencies so give you good advice.

And I have done the same operation as you describe, myself, on many occasions but using the correct procedures.

Be careful of using impact tools on things they were not intended for... You can easily massively over torque, and the result of that will normally end in failure...

I don't need to tell you the usual result of that... just think of an unexpected knock on the door at 2 am...

ate

 

[Final 3Green Land]

The arms to avoid are MEYLE HD's. They didnt even last 10,000 miles and at £350.00 for the full set of OEM plus standard parts, it would be cheaper to buy x3 cheap kits and replace them as and when necessary.