CE 8P0907279 to BCM 8P0907063

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Hi chaps,

I have the firm idea of installing the HBA in my Audi A3 8P 01/2008 (prefacelift) and I have bought a BCM 063 and the high beam stalk to do it and I want to upgrade Everything to do that mod.
I was wondering if anybody would be so kind to help me with this since anybody have made this mod. If there is any scheme to pin the new BCM 063 or any other help would be appreciated.
As until I know, I need to change the (09) CE 279 and (46) Confort 433 to the newest (09) BCM 063 but I don’t know how to start this mod.

TIA
 
Its possible, but its a big rewiring job which can take a fair while to complete.
 
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Hi chaps,

I have the firm idea of installing the HBA in my Audi A3 8P 01/2008 (prefacelift) and I have bought a BCM 063 and the high beam stalk to do it and I want to upgrade Everything to do that mod.
I was wondering if anybody would be so kind to help me with this since anybody have made this mod. If there is any scheme to pin the new BCM 063 or any other help would be appreciated.
As until I know, I need to change the (09) CE 279 and (46) Confort 433 to the newest (09) BCM 063 but I don’t know how to start this mod.

TIA
@Troubs12 is your man for the BCM job. I know he did it on his car, true legend :icon thumright:

I also did a HBA guide but that's on the new BCM (PQ35) platform: https://www.audi-sport.net/xf/threads/how-to-retrofit-hba-mirror-high-beam-assist.415339/
 
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Yeah Neil's done it, his car wasnt in use at the time, so could take time on it.

Just realise it takes a while to complete, I'm going to build myself a pnp loom hopefully incase I need to return to previous, not 100% decided, but as my cars in use everyday, I can't take it down for a week.

Just realise it's quite a wiring job, so be prepared.
 
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Thank you for all your help guys!

@henkkeumus I’m going to try to contact to @Troubs12 but I cannot send him a DM, I don’t know why, so if @Troubs12 you can read me, please contact me .

@NHN what you say about building a new loom is the same idea I have but to do that, we need the female connectors if they exist, right? Do you know if they exist?

TIA
 
Thank you for all your help guys!

@henkkeumus I’m going to try to contact to @Troubs12 but I cannot send him a DM, I don’t know why, so if @Troubs12 you can read me, please contact me .

@NHN what you say about building a new loom is the same idea I have but to do that, we need the female connectors if they exist, right? Do you know if they exist?

TIA

Hi bud not sure why I’m not getting DM’s I’ll warn you it’s a pig to do. I looked into both making a loom and repinning. I decided to repin in the end as the female connectors required to make an adapter don’t exist. I’ve not done a guide etc as it’s too big a job and there’s a ton of different options etc that writing a guide to help people would take longer than the job itself.

When I done mine it shouldn’t have taken as long as it did but I work permanent night shift and only had the odd day off every week or so. It took about 6-7 weeks in the end but a lot of that was going over what I’d done the previous week.


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As Neil says, its a hell of a job, worth it if you can take the car of the road, but be warned, its a hell of allot of wiring, 1 wrong wire could cause major issues, so triple check everything.

Wish they did the mating connectors as that would make life muchhhhh easier tbh & wires are short so it makes it even longer to complete.

The comfort module plan for me was to use an old unit & wire onto the pin ends inside the unit, which would at least make that pnp.

Alternatively for the ce unit, do the same, wire onto the pins into connectors for the 063 & mount that somewhere else in the car, but that is a long job & only really good if you want to make it reversible.

Its a mod I do want to do, but need a week or so of to take the car out of action.
 
Hi bud not sure why I’m not getting DM’s I’ll warn you it’s a pig to do. I looked into both making a loom and repinning. I decided to repin in the end as the female connectors required to make an adapter don’t exist. I’ve not done a guide etc as it’s too big a job and there’s a ton of different options etc that writing a guide to help people would take longer than the job itself.

When I done mine it shouldn’t have taken as long as it did but I work permanent night shift and only had the odd day off every week or so. It took about 6-7 weeks in the end but a lot of that was going over what I’d done the previous week.


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Thanks bud!

I sent you a DM in response to yours before I saw what you had written to me here.
As you will see in my DM, I asked you how you started the change, what diagrams you based on and if you had any operating problems.

I understand that each pin of the old modules has a space in the new BCM connector and that there is no doubt where it should be located, right?

I am also interested to know if once you have finished the work you have everything working perfectly or if you have had any compatibility problems with any other module.

And another question that comes to mind, is with what size cables did you go from module 46 in the trunk to repin in the new BCM in front.

TIA mate!
 
As Neil says, its a hell of a job, worth it if you can take the car of the road, but be warned, its a hell of allot of wiring, 1 wrong wire could cause major issues, so triple check everything.

Wish they did the mating connectors as that would make life muchhhhh easier tbh & wires are short so it makes it even longer to complete.

The comfort module plan for me was to use an old unit & wire onto the pin ends inside the unit, which would at least make that pnp.

Alternatively for the ce unit, do the same, wire onto the pins into connectors for the 063 & mount that somewhere else in the car, but that is a long job & only really good if you want to make it reversible.

Its a mod I do want to do, but need a week or so of to take the car out of action.
You're right. It is a scary job, but I think that having a good guide should not be a problem, only an important dedication of working hours.

When you say that the cables are short, do you mean the comfort cables (46) or also the CE cables (09)? My biggest fear of wiring is knowing the right diameter to make the extensions and if I have to take into account something else when passing them (from 46 rear to 09 front). I wish those female connectors existed.
Regarding having an extra unit of comfort, I have it too. I understand that what you say to do would be to use the front of the unit as female connectors, cutting the male pins that come out of the unit and soldering them to the extension cables that will be used up to the BCM. Is it so? And the same for the EC.

My intention to make it reversible is just in case something should go wrong during mounting, but once the change is made, it will stay permanently.

Let's go for it! Between all of us, we are sure to find out how to do it in a simple way.
 
Yes thats exactly what I mean.

Wire gauges are shown in elsawin or erwin, most are 0.35-0.5 for comfort module, maybe few are 0.75-1mm, minor tbh.

You can go wire to wire no problem.

Yes the ce wires are short underneath so bit of fun making joins.
 
Yes thats exactly what I mean.

Wire gauges are shown in elsawin or erwin, most are 0.35-0.5 for comfort module, maybe few are 0.75-1mm, minor tbh.

You can go wire to wire no problem.

Yes the ce wires are short underneath so bit of fun making joins.
Ok!
I have come up with the possibility of soldering the new cables behind the original connector in order to maintain the original wiring. Does it seem feasible?
 
It is necessary to rewire the relays?

Hi sorry for the late reply it’s been a pig of a week. The only thing I’d advise is as Nigel said double and triple check everything.

You do have to rewire some relays but you’re better off getting the current flow diagrams for the base equipment of your car and the convenience system and go through abs list everything out PIN numbers etc and then do the same on the one you want to end up having ie bcm.

Personally I’d start with getting the power to the new unit sorted. It was over a year ago for me so I’m trying to remember lol) I think I had to run extra wires from the fuse box. Then I’d get the lights repinned then CAN and work from there. I did convenience last I think. But as long as you have a clear plan of what you’re doing it’s easier to check as you go.

I think what I did first was extend all the shorter wires so they were the same length and colour of the original (that’s more of a Neil thing though) then found where they went on the new connector and put a new pin on and located it.

Obviously an adapter harness would be the ideal solution but unfortunately it’s not really possible on this some of the pin ends don’t need changing but not all of them. It will look like an absolute rats nest in there while you’re getting stuff done but it’ll come right in the end. I say that it’s been about a year and I’ve still not shortened all of the wires, it’s on my list to do


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Also when I say “rats nest” I was sugar coating it.

The last pic is how it is now but as I said before I need to shorten it back. At time I was waiting on one lot of pins from AliExpress to turn up and needed to drive the car again. At that time I was at the “fix it or scrap it” stage
40342b7dfa1d02f620a92a8c6311b2d4.jpg

974c74b991fd7f11530128a9d935e902.jpg

5d4f68cfbd27750bc7768c3d3dab9162.jpg



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Makes my manual to DSG swap look like childs play. :thumbs up:

Too be fair I’d take a dsg conversion over that any day of the week. Nice to know someone’s done that though. Was it just gearbox (and ecu), flywheel, starter, shafts selector and loom?


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+steering wheel -sharfts (used existing).

Nice I forgot about the paddles. The hours you’re gonna have to spend looking at wiring diagrams isn’t gonna be fun. I wish I could be of more help but there’s no guarantee that your car would have been wired the same as mine so the notes I have would just need checking anyway so it’s better to start fresh without the added confusion of stuff that could be irrelevant.


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I did the swap about 5 years ago now. At the time no one had really done it. It was an interesting learing curve :cool:.
 
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Also when I say “rats nest” I was sugar coating it.

The last pic is how it is now but as I said before I need to shorten it back. At time I was waiting on one lot of pins from AliExpress to turn up and needed to drive the car again. At that time I was at the “fix it or scrap it” stage
40342b7dfa1d02f620a92a8c6311b2d4.jpg

974c74b991fd7f11530128a9d935e902.jpg

5d4f68cfbd27750bc7768c3d3dab9162.jpg



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Holly sh**!!

First of all thank you for all your answers. I have been disconnected for a while, so please excuse my delay in answering.

The truth is that it is quite scary to see those photos. I guess having everything disassembled helps organize everything better, but I hope I don't have to disassemble so much.

I’m still a greenie in many concepts that you comment on, but could you tell me how to obtain the BCM diagram for my car?

I guess if I don't have all the BCM repinned, nothing will work, right? That is, if I repin the lights, but not the comfort, will everything still work? And another question, once the change is made, when you pass the Vagcom do you see faults?

My intention is to prepare as much as I can on the table. I want to buy an old CE to break it and use what I can to have the female connectors and thus be able to connect the car cables directly, and in turn that will serve as an extension of the cables to the BCM.

I hope that everything is understood well, since I threw a bit of the translator.

Thanks a lot!
 
I recently did it on my TT MK2 (almost the same setup), for the same reason as you (wanting HBA). Pretty much all the above is good advice. I didn't strip as much down as above, but the mess of wires is familiar.

I started with custom adaptor looms, which overcomplicated it. Basically I removed the original connectors, then used mating ones and made looms for the CECM. Then the car worked as before and drivable

Then make looms for the BCM. However, it isn't exactly reversible, as the relays are different, the convenience module is extra, adding extra earths, extra power. Also on the TT space is tight, and getting all these connectors behind the trim is tight. I plan to try and remove the bracket that the BCM clips into next year, so there is more slack in the wires, and then cut and splice them all. That way the soldered joints will be tucked away and safe, and the BCM connectors will have more space. Again, this might differ a bit in the A3, but I think it is pretty much the same as it is mounted beside the steering column

Some other things you might find helpful:

You will need a replacement headlight switch. There are lots of versions depending on spec, so can't provide a part number without knowing what you have. It has an extra power feed from the fusebox. Not a big deal to sort initially, as with the switch disconnected the headlights will be on permanently, so can still drive the car at night

You will also need a rear view mirror for the HBA retrofit. It has an extra light sensor in the base. This is also auto dimming, and if you don't have auto dimming already the mounting is different and you might need to replace the windscreen. If you have dimming, it's much easier. The new mirror has canbus wires which need feeding to the gateway

Speaking of the gateway, it is likely your current one won't support address 20. Check this first, if not a new gateway is needed. Easy swap, just swap the gateway and code by ticking the relevant boxes in the installation list

Finally, my HBA does now work, but in my red DIS, I see no auto main beam icon. It appears when HBA is enabled, and the existing blue main beam icon only shows when main beam is actually active. I also have a fault code in the BCM regarding the instrument cluster. My thinking is that I need a newer white DIS instrument cluster to sort both these issues. I am in the process of locating a company who can clone the immobiliser coding and mileage across, as VCDS cannot do this

Anyway that is enough waffle, hopefully you and others will find it helpful!
 
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I recently did it on my TT MK2 (almost the same setup), for the same reason as you (wanting HBA). Pretty much all the above is good advice. I didn't strip as much down as above, but the mess of wires is familiar.

I started with custom adaptor looms, which overcomplicated it. Basically I removed the original connectors, then used mating ones and made looms for the CECM. Then the car worked as before and drivable

Then make looms for the BCM. However, it isn't exactly reversible, as the relays are different, the convenience module is extra, adding extra earths, extra power. Also on the TT space is tight, and getting all these connectors behind the trim is tight. I plan to try and remove the bracket that the BCM clips into next year, so there is more slack in the wires, and then cut and splice them all. That way the soldered joints will be tucked away and safe, and the BCM connectors will have more space. Again, this might differ a bit in the A3, but I think it is pretty much the same as it is mounted beside the steering column

Some other things you might find helpful:

You will need a replacement headlight switch. There are lots of versions depending on spec, so can't provide a part number without knowing what you have. It has an extra power feed from the fusebox. Not a big deal to sort initially, as with the switch disconnected the headlights will be on permanently, so can still drive the car at night

You will also need a rear view mirror for the HBA retrofit. It has an extra light sensor in the base. This is also auto dimming, and if you don't have auto dimming already the mounting is different and you might need to replace the windscreen. If you have dimming, it's much easier. The new mirror has canbus wires which need feeding to the gateway

Speaking of the gateway, it is likely your current one won't support address 20. Check this first, if not a new gateway is needed. Easy swap, just swap the gateway and code by ticking the relevant boxes in the installation list

Finally, my HBA does now work, but in my red DIS, I see no auto main beam icon. It appears when HBA is enabled, and the existing blue main beam icon only shows when main beam is actually active. I also have a fault code in the BCM regarding the instrument cluster. My thinking is that I need a newer white DIS instrument cluster to sort both these issues. I am in the process of locating a company who can clone the immobiliser coding and mileage across, as VCDS cannot do this

Anyway that is enough waffle, hopefully you and others will find it helpful!
Hi MT-V6! Thank you very much for all the information and light that you have contributed to the post.

From what I understand, now you have an intermediate connector that serves both to connect the CE and the BCM? And with regard to the convenience module couldn’t do the same? From what you say about the relays, it is what scares me the most, especially because they don’t match. How will I know which ones I will need?

Spaces are always tight when we need to work , but from what I see, I think the BCM will fit in the same location as the CE on the A3, but you do well to comment.

Regarding the headlight switch, I already have one, it is the one with a small extra connector, right? Is that extra new connector pinned directly to the BCM?

My car was originally equipped with an autodim interior mirror, with which I understand that I will only have to install the new HBA interior mirror as well as the turn signal and high beam lever with reversing. In addition, I have also installed the facelift cluster with white FIS. The gateway already verified that it allows to select the HBA, so I hope I don't have to change it either. Is there nothing else you need to consider to change?

Thanks again!
 
Hi chaps!
I have bought a CE and a CLCConvenience to break and be able to use the connectors with their pins to make the transformation to BCM in a plug & play way and in case there is a problem, to be able to go back easily without having moved the pins of their original connectors .

The problem that I find now with both modules (09 and 46) unarmed is that I’m not clear with the diagrams. To make things more difficult I don’t see that there is a CE diagram in ELSA online.

I beg if someone who understands diagrams could help me with the pin by pin from the old modules to the modern one. If I get this information, I believe that my proposal to disassemble the old control units without touching the original wiring of the car will make everything easier and make this upgrade accessible to everyone.

Does anyone seem able to help me with this please?
 
It's a big job to document these things and there are many variables depending on spec. I haven't yet got around to it but I'll try and get around to it!
 
Probably best to keep all this in the original thread that troubs was part of, then any anomalies will be shared.

I can say this, there's really not enough room imho to put an adapted pnp module in there aswell as the 063 unit too.

I'd consider rewiring your existing to plug straight into the 063.
 
It's a big job to document these things and there are many variables depending on spec. I haven't yet got around to it but I'll try and get around to it!
Thanks a lot bud

I know it's a lot of work to describe all that, and I wish I understood the diagrams so I could do the work myself, but I feel useless when I start looking at them.

I don't know if there will be someone in the group who can easily read the diagrams and can shed light on the matter.

How did you do it without having the pin to pin? Did you work with the diagram directly on the car for each pin you relocated? I find it very difficult like this

I hope you can help me with this soon and make that upgrade “easy”.

Appreciate
 
Probably best to keep all this in the original thread that troubs was part of, then any anomalies will be shared.

I can say this, there's really not enough room imho to put an adapted pnp module in there aswell as the 063 unit too.

I'd consider rewiring your existing to plug straight into the 063.
Hi mate,

You're probably right about the space, but I'm already counting on it and I'd relocate the 063 to a different spot under the steering wheel. My car is Spanish, and currently I have under the steering wheel and just above module 279, a module for DTT similar in size to module 063 + a radar detector control unit and I still have space, but if necessary I would relocate the DTT.
I think that in English cars you have the space under the steering wheel somewhat more limited due to the location of the other modules. I hope I don't have problems with that .

The truth is that for now I have not tried it, but it is easy having the 063 module disassembled to try to find a space for it and thus also calculate the necessary length of the cables.

In the end, being able to organize it on a table I think it will be easier and better for my back, which I have had a torticollis for 3 days from connecting two cables under the steering wheel ‍♂️
 
Give this a watch, they are quite logical when you understand them

I spent weeks planning ahead to make sure I had worked out every wire. Most do but some relays don't due to the CECM having the holder built in

I also have to add an additional wire to the windscreen washer pump, but I think this was specific to the TT and won't be needed for the A3
 
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Give this a watch, they are quite logical when you understand them

I spent weeks planning ahead to make sure I had worked out every wire. Most do but some relays don't due to the CECM having the holder built in

I also have to add an additional wire to the windscreen washer pump, but I think this was specific to the TT and won't be needed for the A3

I imagine how complicated it had to be and more without having the pin by pin detailed.
I'm really stuck with this. Also I can't find a diagram of the CE and it seems that to find each wire you must go looking for each module that is led to the CE.
I'm going to try to clarify myself with the video you posted, but after seeing it once it scares me even more .
I only have you right now to clarify this, but I wish I knew where to go and that they could give me the pin by pin done to start.

Regarding adding a cable to the windscreen washer pump, it would be the least of the problems, but I think it will also happen in the A3, since the TT should be identical, right?

Well, I hope I can continue to move forward with this and be able to achieve it.

Thanks bud!
 
Are you hoping a pin map for example?
Pin 1 -> Pin 16
Pin 2 -> Pin 17

If so, I don't believe this exists or anybody going to make it since each car is different with different accessories.
As @MT-V6 said you will have to learn how to read the schematics. Of find someone to do it for you.

What I would do?
First off you should have both diagrams for CE and BCM. Maybe in Elsa you have to go to earlier year to find the CE version.
Start with the wires you have, one by one, check the CE diagram where it goes, and find the same wire in the BCM version and find the new pin location.

Example:
Wire that now is on pin 1 of CE.
Find on diagram where this wire goes. For example it goes to the CAN gateway on pin 16.
Check on the BCM diagram and search for a wire that comes from the CAN gateway pin 16. Oh you found it. It goes to pin 10 of the BCM.
So Pin 1 of CE go to pin 10 of BCM.
Next wire......

FYI usually the diagrams have all the wires possible (even if you don't have that specific accessory). Ignore wires that you don't have already that go to modules that you don't have.
 
Are you hoping a pin map for example?
Pin 1 -> Pin 16
Pin 2 -> Pin 17

If so, I don't believe this exists or anybody going to make it since each car is different with different accessories.
As @MT-V6 said you will have to learn how to read the schematics. Of find someone to do it for you.

What I would do?
First off you should have both diagrams for CE and BCM. Maybe in Elsa you have to go to earlier year to find the CE version.
Start with the wires you have, one by one, check the CE diagram where it goes, and find the same wire in the BCM version and find the new pin location.

Example:
Wire that now is on pin 1 of CE.
Find on diagram where this wire goes. For example it goes to the CAN gateway on pin 16.
Check on the BCM diagram and search for a wire that comes from the CAN gateway pin 16. Oh you found it. It goes to pin 10 of the BCM.
So Pin 1 of CE go to pin 10 of BCM.
Next wire......

FYI usually the diagrams have all the wires possible (even if you don't have that specific accessory). Ignore wires that you don't have already that go to modules that you don't have.
Exactly, the pin map is what I'm looking for.

I understand very well with your explanation how I could do it, but the problem is that there is no CE or BCM diagram in ELSA, so you have to look for all the modules of the car, masses, relays, etc, which are directed to the CE .

The idea of going from CE to BCM is to only get to use the HBA (High Beam Assist) in my pre-facelift car.
Maybe it's a crazy idea, but do you think I could duplicate to the BCM only the necessary wires to be able to use the HBA and leave the rest of the wires in the CE?
 
Exactly, the pin map is what I'm looking for.

I understand very well with your explanation how I could do it, but the problem is that there is no CE or BCM diagram in ELSA, so you have to look for all the modules of the car, masses, relays, etc, which are directed to the CE .

The idea of going from CE to BCM is to only get to use the HBA (High Beam Assist) in my pre-facelift car.
Maybe it's a crazy idea, but do you think I could duplicate to the BCM only the necessary wires to be able to use the HBA and leave the rest of the wires in the CE?

Sorry for the delay in replying I’ve recently had surgery and am still abit spaced. But just so you know there are CE and BCM diagrams on Elsa.

But as for having a later bcm just for hba you’d have so much trouble it’s not even entertaining jumping in that rabbit hole.


For your current setup you need to look at the ones for “Base Equipment” and “Convenience” and then once you’ve gone through them and listed everything you need you then need to go back to Elsa and get the BCM one which will be “Base Equipment from 2009”

The way to tell you’ve got the right one is the connector numbers on J519 will be t52a(b or c) on the bcm one and you’ll have about 12 plus connectors on the older type.

There isn’t really a easy map to follow mate you have to make your own that’s what I did and even after doing all that work some of them still needed tweaking.


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Sorry for the delay in replying I’ve recently had surgery and am still abit spaced. But just so you know there are CE and BCM diagrams on Elsa.

But as for having a later bcm just for hba you’d have so much trouble it’s not even entertaining jumping in that rabbit hole.


For your current setup you need to look at the ones for “Base Equipment” and “Convenience” and then once you’ve gone through them and listed everything you need you then need to go back to Elsa and get the BCM one which will be “Base Equipment from 2009”

The way to tell you’ve got the right one is the connector numbers on J519 will be t52a(b or c) on the bcm one and you’ll have about 12 plus connectors on the older type.

There isn’t really a easy map to follow mate you have to make your own that’s what I did and even after doing all that work some of them still needed tweaking.


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Don't worry, the important thing is your health, so get well soon.
Regarding the CE and BCM diagrams, I cannot find them in ELSA. Do you have them so you can send them to me please?

I know it's a complicated topic, but I want to try it, if only for the HBA for now.

About looking for the CE base equipment, convenience and BCM is where I find myself lost, since in Elsa I can't find them and it forces me to go in the opposite direction, looking for each unit that is connected to the CE or convenience to find the pin in CE or BCM or Convenience. That is why I would appreciate if you have obtained them, if you could send them to me please.

Good point, knowing that there are 12 more connectors on the BCM. These 12 more connectors are for masses?

I know that I am bound to run into troubles, that is why I have chosen this way of doing it with the connectors and getting the closest thing to a Plug&Play.

thanks mate
 
CE and BCM are referred to as J519, then you'll see the connectors to it, eg T11c for the CE, or T52a for the BCM
 
CE and BCM are referred to as J519, then you'll see the connectors to it, eg T11c for the CE, or T52a for the BCM
I have found that. Do you think I can trust it?

BCM:
Connector assignment:
52-pin connector -T52 A- black -A-
1 - Fuse 26 on fuse holder B -SB26-
2 - Not assigned
3 - Not assigned
4 - Left washer jet heater element -Z20- , right washer jet heater element -Z21-
5 - Left headlight main beam bulb -M30-
6 - Left daytime running light bulb -L174-
7 - Not assigned
8 - Not assigned
9 - Rear right turn signal bulb -M8-
10 - Front left turn signal bulb -M5-
11 - Left headlight dipped beam bulb -M29-
12 - Rear lid lock unit -F256-Luggage compartment light -W3-
13 - Rear lid handle release button -E234-
14 - Bonnet contact switch -F266-
15 - Not assigned
16 - Reversing light switch -F4-
17 - Rear fog light switch -E18-
18 - Light switch -E1- , zero position
19 - Light switch -E1- , side lights
20 - Light switch -E1- , driving light assist
21 - Fog light switch -E7-
22 - Light switch -E1- , dip beam
23 - Earth connection 2, in main wiring harness -367-
24 - Fuse 3 on fuse holder B -SB3- , terminal 30
25 - Left fog light bulb -L22-
26 - Right brake and tail light bulb -M22-
27 - Left tail light bulb -M4- , rear left tail light
28 - Right daytime running light bulb -L175-
29 - Rear lid lock unit -F256-
30 - Rear right door contact switch -F11-
31 - Not assigned
32 - Not assigned
33 - Not assigned
34 - Not assigned
35 - Heater/heat output switch -E16-
36 - Interior monitoring deactivation switch -E267-
37 - Not assigned
38 - Not assigned
39 - Not assigned
40 - Not assigned
41 - Not assigned
42 - Earth connection 21, in main wiring harness -386-
43 - Rear window wiper motor -V12- , windscreen and rear window washer pump -V59-
44 - Right side light bulb -M3-
45 - Additional brake light bulb -M25-
46 - Tank filler flap locking motor -V155-
47 - Not assigned
48 - Rear left central locking lock unit -F222-
49 - Rear right door central locking motor, lock -V215-
50 - Not assigned
51 - Not assigned
52 - Not assigned


Connector assignment:

52-pin connector -T52 B- white-B-
1 -Fuse 45 on fuse holder C -SC45- , central locking
2 - Rear window wiper motor -V12-Windscreen and rear window washer pump -V59-
3 - Not assigned
4 - Not assigned
5 - Not assigned
6 - Not assigned
7 - Not assigned
8 - Not assigned
9 - Not assigned
10 - Not assigned
11 - Rear lid release motor -V139-
12 - Terminal 15 voltage supply relay -J329-
13 - Not assigned
14 - Heater/heat output switch -E16-Heated rear window warning lamp -K10-
15 - Switch and instrument illumination regulator -E20-
16 - Sliding sunroof control unit -J245-
17 - Sliding sunroof adjustment control unit -J245- , convenience closing
18 - Not assigned
19 - Not assigned
20 - Not assigned
21 - Heated front seats control unit -J774- heated seat switched off
22 - Heated rear window relay -J9-
23 - Not assigned
24 - Hazard warning lights button -E229- , Indicator lamp for hazard warning light -K6-
25 - Not assigned
26 - Not assigned
27 - Not assigned
28 - X-contact relief relay -J59-
29 - Terminal 50 voltage supply relay -J682-
30 - Switch and instrument illumination regulator -E20-
31 - Not assigned
32 - Not assigned
33 - Wiper motor control unit -J400- , rain and light detector sensor -G397- LIN bus
34 - Not assigned
35 - Not assigned
36 - Alarm horn -H12-interior monitoring sensor -G273- vehicle Inclination sensor -G384- , LIN bus
37 - Interior monitoring deactivation switch -E267- , interior monitoring off warning lamp -K162- , fuel supply relay -J643- , fuel pump control unit -J538-
38 - Fuel supply relay -J643-
39 - Not assigned
40 - Headlight washer system relay -J39-
41 - Dual tone horn relay -J4-
42 - Fuse 46 on fuse holder C -SC46-
43 - Positive connection 1 (30 g), in main wiring harness -B559-
44 - Not assigned
45 - Not assigned
46 - Not assigned
47 - Not assigned
48 - Not assigned
49 - Not assigned
50 - Left footwell light -W9- , rear left and right footwell light -W10-
51 - Connection 1 (58d), in main wiring harness -B340-
52 - Earth connection 1, in main wiring harness -366-


Connector assignment:

52-pin connector -T52 C- brown-C-

1 - Not assigned
2 - Not assigned
3 - Right tail light bulb -M2-
4 - Left brake and tail light bulb -M21-
5 - Earth connection 21, in main wiring harness -386-
6 - Not assigned
7 - Hazard warning lights button -E229-
8 - Not assigned
9 - Not assigned
10 - Connection 1 (TK), in interior wiring harness -B154- , front interior light -W1-
11 - Not assigned
12 - Not assigned
13 - Steering column electronics control unit -J527- , ignition/starter switch -D- , terminal S
14 - Positive connection 1 (50) , in main wiring harness -B239- , Steering column electronics control unit -J527-
15 - Data bus diagnostic interface -J533- , connection 2 (convenience CAN bus, high), in main wiring harness -B398-
16 - Data bus diagnostic interface -J533- , connection 2 (convenience CAN bus, low), in main wiring harness -B407-
17 - Brake light switch -F-
18 - Not assigned
19 - Not assigned
20 - Not assigned
21 - Not assigned
22 - Not assigned
23 - Not assigned
24 - Not assigned
25 - Right fog light bulb -L23-
26 - Left side light bulb -M1-
27 - Number plate light -X-
28 - Rear right fog light bulb -L47-Right reversing light bulb -M17-
29 - Not assigned
30 - Mechatronic unit for dual clutch gearbox -J743- , Clutch position sender -G476-
31 - Steering column electronics control unit -J527-
32 - Converter with socket, 12 V-230 V -U13- terminal L
33 - Not assigned
34 - Not assigned
35 - Switch and instrument illumination regulator -E20-
36 - Not assigned
37 - Not assigned
38 - Not assigned
39 - Not assigned
40 - Central locking and anti-theft alarm system aerial -R47- , aerial screening
41 - Central locking and anti-theft alarm system aerial -R47-
42 - Fuse 16 on fuse holder B -SB16-
43 - Not assigned
44 - Not assigned
45 - Not assigned
46 - Right headlight main beam bulb -M32-
47 - Left rear fog light bulb -L46- , Left reversing light bulb -M16-
48 - Not assigned
49 - Not assigned
50 - Front right turn signal bulb -M7-
51 - Rear left turn signal bulb -M6-
52 - Right headlight dipped beam bulb -M31-



CE:
Connector A (11-pin)
Pin 1: Terminal 30 right
Pin 2: Dipped beam right
Pin 3: Main beam right
Pin 4: Fog light right
Pin 5: Vacant
Pin 6: Flasher front right
Pin 7: Side light front left
Pin 8: Flasher side left
Pin 9: Terminal 31 left
Pin 10: Electric fuel pump relay
Pin 11: Terminal 50 relay

Connector B (12-pin)
Pin 1: Reversing light right
Pin 2: Vacant
Pin 3: Light sensor supply
Pin 4: Fog tail light, left
Pin 5: Brake light right
Pin 6: Vacant
Pin 7: Footwell light
Pin 8: Vacant
Pin 9: Side light rear right
Pin 10: Rear right turn signal
Pin 11: Interior lighting
Pin 12: Terminal 58s


Connector C (12-pin)
Pin 1: Seat heating shut-off
Pin 2: Brake light left
Pin 3: Vacant
Pin 4: Coming Home LED
Pin 5: Vacant
Pin 6: Vacant
Pin 7: Vacant
Pin 8: Number plate light
Pin 9: Brake light centre
Pin 10: Side light rear left
Pin 11: Rear left turn signal
Pin 12: Vacant


Connector D (11-pin)
Pin 1: Terminal 30 left
Pin 2: Fog light left
Pin 3: Main beam left
Pin 4: Dipped beam left
Pin 5: Terminal 31 right
Pin 6: Vacant
Pin 7: Terminal 15 engine relay
Pin 8: Headlight washer relay
Pin 9: Flasher side right
Pin 10: Side light front right
Pin 11: Flasher front left


Connector E (16-pin)
Pin 1: Side lights switch
Pin 2: Brake light switch
Pin 3: Vacant
Pin 4: Vacant
Pin 5: Garage door opener input
Pin 6: Fog tail light switch
Pin 7: P/N without interlock switch
Pin 8: Dipped beam switch
Pin 9: Vacant
Pin 10: Vacant
Pin 11: Light sensor input
Pin 12: Coming Home potentiometer tap
Pin 13: Fog tail light switch
Pin 14: Assistance driving lights switch
Pin 15: EC mirror non-dipping
Pin 16: Light switch 0 setting


Connector F (8-pin)
Pin 1: Terminal 50 diagnosis
Pin 2: Terminal 15 engine diagnosis
Pin 3: LIN bus
Pin 4: Terminal L-alternator
Pin 5: Bonnet contact
Pin 6: Reversing light switch
Pin 7: Terminal 30 reference
Pin 8: Terminal 31 reference


Connector G (12-pin)
Pin 1: Terminal 50 switch
Pin 2: Hazard warning lights LED
Pin 3: Rear window heater LED
Pin 4: Terminal 58s potentiometer ground
Pin 5: Vacant
Pin 6: Rear window heater button
Pin 7: Convenience CAN Low
Pin 8: Convenience CAN High
Pin 9: Hazard warning lights button
Pin 10: Terminal 58s potentiometer supply
Pin 11: Terminal 15 switch
Pin 12: Terminal 58s potentiometer tap


Connector H (12-pin)
Pin 1: Vacant
Pin 2: Vacant
Pin 3: Vacant
Pin 4: Vacant
Pin 5: Vacant
Pin 6: Vacant
Pin 7: Vacant
Pin 8: Vacant
Pin 9: Vacant
Pin 10: Vacant
Pin 11: Vacant
Pin 12: Vacant
 
You can go check your CE plugs and see if you have cables at all the pin numbers that you have posted.
Or even if you have more wires that are not on your post.
This is a good start!
 
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Sorry again I can email you some diagrams if you like just ping me a dm and I’ll send them over forgot to say not only was it surgery but the Mrs is also 8 months pregnant lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Hey mate,

I have ElsaWin version 6.0 free for you to download if you like :).
Also have ETKA 7.5 and 8 if you need so...

Just hit me up and I'll share a link with you to my storage.
For anybody though...

1643926355108


ElsaWin 23GB
ETKA 11GB
 
  • Like
Reactions: Discotek
Sorry again I can email you some diagrams if you like just ping me a dm and I’ll send them over forgot to say not only was it surgery but the Mrs is also 8 months pregnant lol.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Congratulations on the pregnancy mate!
Yes please, any diagram can be of great help! My email is revilonoel@gmail.com
Thanks a lot!