Hi guys I am new on the forum, Just recently bought an Audi A3 2.0 Fsi 2006 Auto 6 forward triptronic few weeks back. The problem is that when when the cars temperature reached 90° the car stalls, jerks or would just die and needs to cool off between 1 and 2 hours then the car would start again, on the road the car would run fine and the temperature would sit on 50° and the coolant sign would appear on the cluster, I have realised this morning that even though the engine is warm on 90° the water remains cold in the water tank and now the car doesn't even go to that 90° without jerking and stalling and want me to fully accelerate it. I have serviced the car last week replaced the petrol pump, and the map sensor but the problem still persists. Please help. We have diagnosed the car with the mechanic and we got P2015 intake manifold runner position sensor and P0016 crank shaft position sensor.
Audi A3 2.0 Fsi 2006 Auto Stalling & Dying
- Thread starter Faith
- Start date
First check in the expansion tank to see if the coolant is flowing, feel the pipes to see if they are warming up. If they aren’t could be the water pump gone.
If the pipes are then get the thermostats checked/changed. And the temp sensors checked.
The car should sit at 90, not 50. If the temp is dropping when driving then the coolant isn’t flowing correctly, hinting at a thermostat issue.
I don’t think that the codes you have listed have any relation to the cooling system.
If the pipes are then get the thermostats checked/changed. And the temp sensors checked.
The car should sit at 90, not 50. If the temp is dropping when driving then the coolant isn’t flowing correctly, hinting at a thermostat issue.
I don’t think that the codes you have listed have any relation to the cooling system.
Thanks for the response, the mechanic took the car in yesterday for thermostat and that temperature sender unit apparently both of them were worn out replaced the temperature sensor but unfortunately couldn't replace the thermostat until weekend to get a new one so he removed it. The car cam back running fine we took a 20km run and the temp slowly dropped to 50 and around town on stop and go's it came back to 90 after dropping him as soon as I entered my house in the drive way it cut out again and wouldn't start so I guess I'll have to wait until its cold again. The engine check light has disappeared after changing the temp sensor and removing the thermo. What surprises me is that even though the car temp is high the water in the coolant remains cold I don't know whether it should remain cold or not as this is my first audi but the heater is working even though the thermostat is removed. What should we do now.
It remains cold because the full circuit isn’t open, I would stop driving it until it is fully diagnosed as you could do some permanent damage to the engine.
it needs another scan to see if any more codes have appeared.
it needs another scan to see if any more codes have appeared.
It just started fine now because the engine has cooled off and it's bit cold this side I am from south africa. The engine check light is no longer on the cluster as soon as it starts it dissapears. He said after removing the thermo and replacing that water pump he ran another diagnose and there was nothing. Please help what should we look for now
So the coolant shouldn't remain cold? Meaning it might be the water pump? Since the temperature sensor is replaced? It's getting frustrating now and I was starting to fall in love with the car. Whatelse should we look for.
Run the engine, take the lid off the coolant tank. (Only do this when coolant is cold). Look to see if coolant is flowing, you should see some bubbles.
if it isn’t chance the water pump is gone or failing.
does your mechanic specialise in audis? If not then it might be worth looking for one that does.
I can’t for the life of me remember if there’s one or two thermostats.
if it isn’t chance the water pump is gone or failing.
does your mechanic specialise in audis? If not then it might be worth looking for one that does.
I can’t for the life of me remember if there’s one or two thermostats.
i think you have multiple issues here, which are masking the real cause of the car shutting off.
the coolant issue, the mechanic has removed the thermostat temporarily. this means that the coolant is in a constant loop with the radiator, so the engine wont have chance to heat up the coolant in the block. the coolant will be cool because of this.
if the waterpump had failed, yes thatd mean the coolant would not be circulating, so remain in the head and heat up, however youd also have other signs such as unmissable noise from the pump, the drive belt being thrown off if the pump had seized, and significant loss of coolant.
the coolant sensors arent saying that the coolant is too hot either. if the sensors dont see it overheating, then its not a electronic failsafe to prevent overheating.
so what is causing it to cut out?
personally, id be looking at this: P0016 crank shaft position sensor.
that can cause the cutting out and failing to start symptoms. possible timing issue
the coolant issue, the mechanic has removed the thermostat temporarily. this means that the coolant is in a constant loop with the radiator, so the engine wont have chance to heat up the coolant in the block. the coolant will be cool because of this.
if the waterpump had failed, yes thatd mean the coolant would not be circulating, so remain in the head and heat up, however youd also have other signs such as unmissable noise from the pump, the drive belt being thrown off if the pump had seized, and significant loss of coolant.
the coolant sensors arent saying that the coolant is too hot either. if the sensors dont see it overheating, then its not a electronic failsafe to prevent overheating.
so what is causing it to cut out?
personally, id be looking at this: P0016 crank shaft position sensor.
that can cause the cutting out and failing to start symptoms. possible timing issue
Hi Sami, thank you very much we will be looking at the crank shaft position sensor tomorrow, becuase since Tuesday evening when the mechanic brought back the car after removing the thermo and replacing the temperature sensor it was running excellent and fine again until this morning when I drive to work the engine check came back again at a stop sign the stalling began and I had to pump the acceselerator which causes excessive change down as its auto transmission. He mentioned that the crank positon sensor what kind of naked when and he had to mask tape it the other day when changing the sensor, I believe the crank shaft position sensor is the culprit as even when the car start the rev count jumps up and down and will be steady after some few seconds.
Hi guys I think I have found a solution to my problem of the engine cutting out on 90°. After changing the crank shaft position sensor on Friday the car ran fine with no hesitation or stalling luckily it was driven by the mechanic to fetch me after work then it just died again, I decided to call another guy who drives a Golf V Gti which I remembered he also works on this cars immediately he suggested I poured some water on the high pressure pump and immediately the car started fine again he suggested I come see him, so yesterday I was out of town only managed to go to him today and it did that again on him and he poured water after scanning the car and suggested we change the high pressure pump as he got a spare but that will be some time next week. Thanks very much the high pressure is failing when hot and protecting itself I was thinking it was the engine all this time been standing on the road like 2 hours when I should have just poured water on it and continued the journey, that's why it's running fine on long distances becuase it's getting some air.
Yah it's quite tricky because even the diagnose couldn't pick it up. Now I'm sitting with another problem I don't itlf you can help as well. Yesterday we were working on the steering column trying to figure out why the horn and wipers suddenly didn't walk, the guy forgot to take out the terminal so the unit (It's like a power sensor when you turn the ignition on with yellow plug and black) under the steering column it hit with the earth on the steering adjuster and kinda snapped or burned a bit then the car would turn but the cluster would remain dark it was just a small line between the power lines then we took it to a electrician guy who solded the board and came luckily it didn't turn on and this time the cluster was back but the engine management light was missing for the car to start, everything is still working on the ignition when turned on the lights comes on but only engine management light do you have any idea of what we can look for I am now starting to be frustrated with this car.
so you were playing with the steering control module, it shorted on the steering height adjuster, now the car doesnt start?
the steering control module wont cause the eml to not come on, or the car to not start. id look at fuses. specifically for the ecu. there are 2 fuse boxes, one on the side of the dash, one under the bonnet.
the steering control module wont cause the eml to not come on, or the car to not start. id look at fuses. specifically for the ecu. there are 2 fuse boxes, one on the side of the dash, one under the bonnet.
Yes that's what happened unfortunately I can't upload pics so I got the guy to solder the board and after when you turn on the ignition it would turn on but the engine management light is missing on the cluster. What's the ecu the computer box?
Morning Sami, thank you very much for your assistance and advice, the electrician did solder the body control module in the right way as we had the ignition on, we found a burned relay under the dash, i took it to the electrician gain to get it tested and they removed carbo as it seemed to be a special relay, couldn't find a replacement at autozone or midas they both refeered me to the Audi, but after the electrician did that the engine management came on we removed the connectors to the ecu and back the the car started on the first kick, now i am back on the road again. Thank you very much
