S3 8V bad idle with P0014 - VCDS question

[varS3]

I have an Audi S3 8V which has had a bad idle for some time. It has never stalled, but it idles quite lumpy at times (not always) especially when cold. I had a mechanic look it and promptly replace the timing chain (thought it could have stretched) and the issue still persists. The mechanic is at a loss as to what to do next and frankly I have lost confidence in them. I'm going to have a crack at fixing this myself.

The code I am seeing is a P0014 - Bank 1: Camshaft B (Exhaust). Re-tard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced).
It's also throwing a P0017 - Engine Speed Sensor. Incorrect correlation.

After doing quite a lot of research and buying the manuals, I'm thinking of replacing:
1) Exhaust camshaft adjuster magnet
2) Camshaft adjuster oil control valve (n318) - (I assume this is the same part as n205?)
3) Testing and possibly replacing any problematic VVT Solenoid (Cam adjustment actuator).

Is it possible to test the VVT solenoids with VCDS? I would rather test them in situ than remove them and manually apply 12v. VCDS would be preferable. Any ideas? Am I on the right track here??

 

[NHN]

So the issue with allot of non vag trained garages, a common one I find, is timing & belt installs, often they're out, thats not to say its a belt issue, however, something to check as incorrect correlation can be caused by bad belt timing install.

Reading up, allot of cars with the same error have tensioner, solenoid issues, I dont know the engine that well tbh, so can't be sure, but that garage should be looking at these things.

In there defence, its expensive to do new engine studies with vag tbh, but car engines haven't changed that drastically imho where they wouldn't know what to check.

 

[AudiRace]

I have an Audi S3 8V which has had a bad idle for some time. It has never stalled, but it idles quite lumpy at times (not always) especially when cold. I had a mechanic look it and promptly replace the timing chain (thought it could have stretched) and the issue still persists. The mechanic is at a loss as to what to do next and frankly I have lost confidence in them. I'm going to have a crack at fixing this myself.

The code I am seeing is a P0014 - Bank 1: Camshaft B (Exhaust). Re-tard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced).
It's also throwing a P0017 - Engine Speed Sensor. Incorrect correlation.

After doing quite a lot of research and buying the manuals, I'm thinking of replacing:
1) Exhaust camshaft adjuster magnet
2) Camshaft adjuster oil control valve (n318) - (I assume this is the same part as n205?)
3) Testing and possibly replacing any problematic VVT Solenoid (Cam adjustment actuator).

Is it possible to test the VVT solenoids with VCDS? I would rather test them in situ than remove them and manually apply 12v. VCDS would be preferable. Any ideas? Am I on the right track here??

Many causes:
Did you replace coilpacks and sparkplugs?
-carbon build up in the inlet valves can also cause a rough idle.
-replacing all the direct and indirect injectors or cleaning them putting injector cleaner into fuel tank
-inlet cam adjuster
-exhaust cam sensor
-cam position magnets
-n205 valve

 

[varS3]

So the issue with allot of non vag trained garages, a common one I find, is timing & belt installs, often they're out, thats not to say its a belt issue, however, something to check as incorrect correlation can be caused by bad belt timing install.

Reading up, allot of cars with the same error have tensioner, solenoid issues, I dont know the engine that well tbh, so can't be sure, but that garage should be looking at these things.

The garage that did the work are "VW Experts". That is all they do. So I was disappointed to say the least.
Any pointers as to how I check the correlation via VCDS to ensure its not the chain being out a tooth? I'm not really sure what numbers I need to be expecting here.

Many causes:
Did you replace coilpacks and sparkplugs?
-carbon build up in the inlet valves can also cause a rough idle.
-replacing all the direct and indirect injectors or cleaning them putting injector cleaner into fuel tank
-inlet cam adjuster
-exhaust cam sensor
-cam position magnets
-n205 valve

I have not replaced the coilpacks or sparkplugs. They will be next on the list. I can see this quickly turning into a "throw parts at it" as I'm not seeing any conclusive reason for a p0014 anywhere.
Before I go with the coils and plugs, I will try some injector cleaner. Replacing the injectors is last thing on the list as that will likely be costly.
I have the cam adjuster, n205 valve and cam position magnets on the way - so these will be the first things I try.

Any idea how to test the cam adjusters via VCDS?

Thanks for the suggestions - they are very helpful and I will work through them one by one if the first round of parts do not fix the issue. And make no mistake, I will respond back on this thread as I go. I'm not going to leave this one hanging if I end up sorting the issue out.

 

[varS3]

Additionally, I should mention that this issue is only really occuring when the car is cold. If it sits over night it tends to occur. I can't say I recall it idling rough when warm.

 

[Garrett 69]

Sounds like it could be cold start system related then. It could mean the air/fuel ratio is incorrect when the engine is cold. You need more fuel in a cold engine than a warm one.

 

[Saddam’s Madame]

I have an Audi S3 8V which has had a bad idle for some time. It has never stalled, but it idles quite lumpy at times (not always) especially when cold. I had a mechanic look it and promptly replace the timing chain (thought it could have stretched) and the issue still persists. The mechanic is at a loss as to what to do next and frankly I have lost confidence in them. I'm going to have a crack at fixing this myself.

The code I am seeing is a P0014 - Bank 1: Camshaft B (Exhaust). Re-tard Setpoint not Reached (Over-Advanced).
It's also throwing a P0017 - Engine Speed Sensor. Incorrect correlation.

After doing quite a lot of research and buying the manuals, I'm thinking of replacing:
1) Exhaust camshaft adjuster magnet
2) Camshaft adjuster oil control valve (n318) - (I assume this is the same part as n205?)
3) Testing and possibly replacing any problematic VVT Solenoid (Cam adjustment actuator).

Is it possible to test the VVT solenoids with VCDS? I would rather test them in situ than remove them and manually apply 12v. VCDS would be preferable. Any ideas? Am I on the right track here??

Did you get to the bottom of this? I am having the exact same problem, fault code pointed to a camshaft position sensor. Changed it and still having intermittent rough idle, is it common for a faulty vvt n205 valve to cause this. I am going to replace both solenoids and see if it fixes the issue

 

[varS3]

I never ended up changing the n205. After having the timing chain replaced and replacing the cam magnets it seems to have rectified itself. I've not had the bad idle for months.
I'm not sure if it was the magnets or the major cam chain work that did the trick. If I had to guess I would say that the cam chain and tensioner to wear-in and thus after a few months it had, and the issue was resolved. The issue occurred after the magnet replacement (and timing chain), so I can only assume it was the wearing in of the chain and slight stretch that might have resolved the issue.

 

[Damo S]

Most likely the magnets sorted it, they are a common problem, unlike timing chains. They dont "wear in" or they would also "wear out" which simply doesnt happen on these engines to my knowledge.

 

[JohnM100]

Have seen quite a few posts where replacing the magnets fixed the issue.

Agree chains pretty reliable but do wonder about the additional wear over the years on the chain links for cars on 20k / variable servicing.

 

[AlS3BE]

Have seen quite a few posts where replacing the magnets fixed the issue.

Agree chains pretty reliable but do wonder about the additional wear over the years on the chain links for cars on 20k / variable servicing.

think that’s problem with chains.
they are very reliable compared to belts but poor cheap oil or long service intervals can leave a built up residue on the links which in time will stretch them.

 

[varS3]

think that’s problem with chains.
they are very reliable compared to belts but poor cheap oil or long service intervals can leave a built up residue on the links which in time will stretch them.

My mechanic was shocked when he saw the fault codes on my S3. He said the cam tensioner issue/chain stretch was very uncommon for the motor. Anyway it cost quite a bit to do that work. In the end I lost confidence in the S3 and sold it.

 

[AlS3BE]

My mechanic was shocked when he saw the fault codes on my S3. He said the cam tensioner issue/chain stretch was very uncommon for the motor. Anyway it cost quite a bit to do that work. In the end I lost confidence in the S3 and sold it.

I’ve had cars with over 100k on chains with no problems but that could be me religiously changing oil every 10k/1year.
also had cars with failed tensioners and bad/snapped timing belts with under 30k.
sh1t happens and sometimes you just got to suck it up and get on with it.