Weird Issue with Drivers Window

AndyRixon

AndyRixon

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Heyyy,

I have recently brought a 2006 Audi A4 2.0l S Line Avant with over 217k miles racked up. With this milage in mind the car came with a few gremlins, most of which I have managed to fix, but there is still one thing that has beaten me and I call on you guys in the hope I can get some answers, I have read a few of the other threads on here relating to similar issues and have applied some of the suggestions however none of them has worked for me. I hope I am posting this in the right place, if not please let me know.

The drivers door window seems to have spouts when it works, but mainly doesn't work, by which I mean doesn't go up and down, here is what I have tried to fault find my issue.
  • I have changed the switch (behaves exactly the same as the old switch, operates all windows apart from the drivers door window)
  • Replaced the window regulator (Turned out both regulators work)
  • Switched the window motors between the two regulators (Both motors seem to work fine)
  • Checked for broken cables between the switch connector and the connector that goes into the window regulator (All of which seemed fine and working, using a multimeter for continuity)
  • Checked every single fuse (While fault finding another issue) and replaced any and all that appeared broken
As I said, this is a problem where sometimes the window will open as intended and most of the times doesn't so I am stuck with the window always closed.

I have VCDS and the only fault that comes up is the following;
01331 - Door Control Module; Drivers Side (J386): Supply Voltage Too Low

So I am at a lose of what else I can check, I could just be having one of my brain farts and the problem is right in front of me, so I am hoping that "a second pair of eyes" from this forum could help :)

(P.S: I thought all these types of forums had died a long while ago, pleasantly surprised when I stumbled across this place rather than having to look at a Facebook page and potentially get the jokes ripped out of me)
 
How's the battery?

I'd recheck wires & connectors for breaks & corrosion.
 
NHN said:
How's the battery?

I'd recheck wires & connectors for breaks & corrosion.
Click to expand...
Battery seems to check out fine, but won't harm another check.

Corrosion.... see brain fart, I didn't think to check that. Will check that once I get a chance, thank you.
 

Possible Causes​

  • Fuse(s) faulty
  • Wiring/Connectors from/to Control Module faulty
  • Power Supply (Battery) faulty

Possible Solutions​

  • Check Fuse(s)
  • Check/Repair Wiring/Connectors from/to Control Module
  • Check Power Supply (Battery)

Special Notes​

  • When found in an individual control module, it's most likely a local source (e.g. wiring/connectors).
  • When found in multiple control modules at the same time, it's most likely a common source (e.g. ground spot, battery, generator).
  • Intermittent codes are often stored during low outside temperature when the battery capacity goes down and may be ignored.
 
In a lot of these faults, the problem is the wiring, it can be a broken inner core but the outer sheath looks ok so test each wire for faults on that door circuit.
 
Charlie Farley said:
In a lot of these faults, the problem is the wiring, it can be a broken inner core but the outer sheath looks ok so test each wire for faults on that door circuit.
Click to expand...
I've still gotta check the actual door loom itself, I've test the small loom that's attached to the door card, that part of it seems fine using a multimeter.
NHN said:
How's the battery?

I'd recheck wires & connectors for breaks & corrosion.
Click to expand...
Have checked the battery, that seems perfectly fine, reading the correct voltages before, during and after start.

Going to be checking for corrosion tomorrow on all connections, will update this thread of my findings once I know more.
 
Checked for corrosion on everything and I can't see anything... or I'm blind.
Beginning to think to just get new door and door card harness to rule it out, so if you know of anywhere I can get these that would be great, once again thank you for all the help.
 
This fault is a very common occurrence on the B7 platform, and it can affect any door but seems to be the driver's door window and rear offside door window that get it more.
I've had it myself on the rear so I know how frustrating it is.
Given you have already eliminated the obvious components that only leaves an electrical supply fault, and trust me, even a small break or short in the loom that goes through the door and door frame will cause havoc.
If the problem is intermittent, which it sounds like it is, you really need to check the specific wiring cores that control the window motor and switch, it really cannot be anything else if you have eliminated the remaining parts of the circuit, if there is a lack of power for whatever reason you need to work back through the loom in that door.
If thats not possible replace the driver's door wiring loom .
 
If you have checked the circuit from the switch to the motor and its ok that's not conclusive if the wire has a break or damage , it just means it was ok when you checked it, but, have you checked the wiring from the fuse board to door modules?
wire damage normally occurs in the section outside the door, that goes through the rubber boot into the car body itself, the constant movement from open and closing doors and old cables end up with broken cores etc, that's when the intermittent fault rears its head.
 
With your car having covered 217k miles , id say that the likely hood of the problem being in that rubber boot section where the cables flex a lot is very high, after that many miles the driver's door would have been opened and shut a heck of a lot, and all that flexing of less than flexible cables ends up with issues, 9 out of 10 times on B7's
Plugs do corrode on these old buses too, so check the connectors very carefully for any sign .
 
Wow thank you for all that information, it helps a lot.

I have checked the door card loom a couple of times using a multimeter and seems fine. I've also cleaned up the contacts in the connectors both ends.

Only thing I haven't checked is the actual door loom, so that might be my next port of call..... been looking at the price for the actual door loom and it ain't cheap that's for sure. Will check the door loom by taking it out the car and running a few tests on it using the multimeter.

Again, thank you so much for your help :)
 
No probs, you are not alone and its a very common problem to be honest.
Sometimes the giveaway that it is the main loom to the door is that other functions start playing up , have you encountered any issues with the central locking etc or mirror ?
 
No not really to be honest, central locking works, I can open and close all the other windows from the drivers door switch, the lock/unlock buttons work.

It's litterally just the drivers door window doesn't open or close and the electric adjust knob for the mirrors don't work.... all on the drivers door.
 
That kinda makes sense, that's why I asked about the mirror control working.
And when you tried a replacement door control switch the window and mirrors still didn't work?
 
Correct, it behaved exactly the same as the old switch.
Just out of curiosity, I have found a "Repair Kit" for the section that goes between the door and the car inside that rubber sleave, would this work at all?
www.ebay.co.uk

Repair Kit Audi A2 A3 A4 A6 Door Pillar FLEXIBLE Wiring Harness Loom connector | eBay

EC Saloon, 8ED Estate, H7 / 8HE Convertible. Door Pillar for Audi A3 / A4 Loom is ready wired, comprising Audi A2 (2000-2005). Audi A3 (2000-2012). Audi A6 (2006 - 2011). Audi A4 B6 B7 (2002-2009).
www.ebay.co.uk
 
It would indeed, I've seen a few of those for sale with good reviews from owners with similar door faults.
Check your loom from one side to the other to see if there is a break in each core in that section between door and pillar.
 
There have been instances where the fault was within the door control unit itself more so when the mirrors are also effected, you have tried a known working one?
 
Yeah I've checked that, and that also behaves the same as the original. I had purchased it knowing it was working so that rules that out I think.
 
I think given what you have tried thus far without a resolution to the fault you are looking at a wiring issue without doubt, and more than likely it is that flexing section between the door and pillar.
If it were me id be checking that section very carefully first before spending and money on repair looms, just to confirm or eliminate that part of the equation.
you don't need to check all the wires, just the appropriate ones for the window operation and mirrors.
 
audi upgrades
I'll get that part of the loom out when I get another chance.... I don't suppose you know off the top of your head which wires to look at specifically? If not it's fine, I can check them all if needed.
 
I do have a B7 wiring schematic in pdf on my laptop, I'll have a look later . :icon thumright:
 
You may find as soon as you start puling that rubber boot to one side all becomes clearer, hopefully, see the problem without the need to check wires more carefully.:icon thumright:
 
Think the problem is clear :( Half tempted to do like a temp fix on it, see if it fixes my issues and if it does, do a full repair on it
20230408 182854
 
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No probs chap, glad to be of some help, and at least you will have window power again, happy days. :yes:
 
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Now you know what to do when the others go tits up...lol
have a good one chap. :icon thumright:
 
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Well I've now properly crimped the wire together, nice and solid. Super happy with the fix and the help you have given me, I was at my whits end and was loosing the will to live with it. Thank you.
 
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