DAZA engines blowing? Or cute advert for tuner?

wuta3

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I saw this video on YouTube with Infinit Performance complaining that DAZA engines are going bang at a frightening rate, regardless of stage of tune. They claim to be seeing multiple blown engines per month with the same or similar faults. Now, Infinit are bashing other tunes and clearly trying to sell their own tunes and "protection algorithm" ... but still.

"Every single RS3 out there without 'engine protections' on it WILL FAIL. We see it 4, 5, 6 times per month. One bad batch of fuel, and it will happen." -- Holes in blocks, bent rods, melted pistons.

I've seen a few other videos, some from the US and elsewhere where injector / spark / knock issues are happening in low tunes / easy driving and basically taking out a cylinder/rod/piston/block.

3 BLOWN RS3 ENGINES! WHY?​



What do we think? A common fault we are starting to see as these cars get on in miles or just sample bias / advertising / scaremongering?
 
I saw this video on YouTube with Infinit Performance complaining that DAZA engines are going bang at a frightening rate, regardless of stage of tune. They claim to be seeing multiple blown engines per month with the same or similar faults. Now, Infinit are bashing other tunes and clearly trying to sell their own tunes and "protection algorithm" ... but still.

"Every single RS3 out there without 'engine protections' on it WILL FAIL. We see it 4, 5, 6 times per month. One bad batch of fuel, and it will happen." -- Holes in blocks, bent rods, melted pistons.

I've seen a few other videos, some from the US and elsewhere where injector / spark / knock issues are happening in low tunes / easy driving and basically taking out a cylinder/rod/piston/block.

3 BLOWN RS3 ENGINES! WHY?​



What do we think? A common fault we are starting to see as these cars get on in miles or just sample bias / advertising / scaremongering?


Yeah because infinit have a perfect track record lol.


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I have loads of customers with “tuned” RS3’s. Only ones that have had issues are the stage 3 guys pushing big power, but these are project cars so they expect something to go wrong.
 
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Everything I have seen makes me think the protections on the standard management system is fine. it is very quick to pull the timing when it is not happy. When people go standalone it is usual to add extra protections with Motec or Syvecs but there is a reason for it, people are pushing the engine.

There are tunes that erode the standard safetys and that increases risk. If the tune has muted the knock sensor and you are using the engine a lot in that area of the tune then another simple failure can be catastrophic.

Added to which, people are happy pay for wheels, carbon and alcantara but neglect injectors, plugs, filters, fuel and oil but still launch the car to death which makes these simple issues more common.

When you understand what features like rolling anti-lag do to the engine it is not surprising cars go bang, but most are blissfully ignorant of the problem.

I would say most RS3s have been tuned so a dozen or so blown engines is well below average.

The only thing I would say in their defence is majority do not understand when the car is not running right and will continue to thrash the car. Flashing an EML for something that should be obvious might be useful to some.
 
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Everything I have seen makes me think the protections on the standard management system is fine. it is very quick to pull the timing when it is not happy. When people go standalone it is usual to add extra protections with Motec or Syvecs but there is a reason for it, people are pushing the engine.

There are tunes that erode the standard safetys and that increases risk. If the tune has muted the knock sensor and you are using the engine a lot in that area of the tune then another simple failure can be catastrophic.

Added to which, people are happy pay for wheels, carbon and alcantara but neglect injectors, plugs, filters, fuel and oil but still launch the car to death which makes these simple issues more common.

When you understand what features like rolling anti-lag do to the engine it is not surprising cars go bang, but most are blissfully ignorant of the problem.

I would say most RS3s have been tuned so a dozen or so blown engines is well below average.

The only thing I would say in their defence is majority do not understand when the car is not running right and will continue to thrash the car. Flashing an EML for something that should be obvious might be useful to some.

I’ve literally just had a text off another ex-RS3 owner saying similar things.
Sensitive to rubbish fuel, fed loads of crap octane booster, revved the nuts of them when cold and brutally dropping down the gears, using RAL.

Infinit were always showing him using RAL on their Social Media, no wonder these engines go bang.
I had RAL on my FL, tried it once and it scared the crap out of me, how you can use that on an engine and not expect trouble is beyond comprehension.


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I have loads of customers with “tuned” RS3’s. Only ones that have had issues are the stage 3 guys pushing big power, but these are project cars so they expect something to go wrong.
Indeed. This is why I thought the video sounded a bit like rubbish. APR/Unitronic/Revo non-built / bolt on stages are so widely ran too, going by the video you'd think that DAZA engines specifically were failing at a rate of 3/4 per month consistently.

I am pretty sure there would be more forum / youtube chatter if this was the case.

Abuse without proper maintenance for the tune and/or lack of mechanical sympathy ... I get that, but that's not what the content/tone of the video was.

I'm going with scaremongering by Infinit unless they want to expand on the failures and point to mechanical / design issues.
 
Yeah because infinit have a perfect track record lol.


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Other than the MRC/TR Hamza stuff a while back (which I didn't really look much at tbh), i've not really heard much about Infinit. Mind you i'm not really on the socials.
 
Everything I have seen makes me think the protections on the standard management system is fine. it is very quick to pull the timing when it is not happy. When people go standalone it is usual to add extra protections with Motec or Syvecs but there is a reason for it, people are pushing the engine.

There are tunes that erode the standard safetys and that increases risk. If the tune has muted the knock sensor and you are using the engine a lot in that area of the tune then another simple failure can be catastrophic.

Added to which, people are happy pay for wheels, carbon and alcantara but neglect injectors, plugs, filters, fuel and oil but still launch the car to death which makes these simple issues more common.

When you understand what features like rolling anti-lag do to the engine it is not surprising cars go bang, but most are blissfully ignorant of the problem.

I would say most RS3s have been tuned so a dozen or so blown engines is well below average.

The only thing I would say in their defence is majority do not understand when the car is not running right and will continue to thrash the car. Flashing an EML for something that should be obvious might be useful to some.
I agree, especially how I have seen these cars driven in and around Manchester. Nothing is bullet proof.

I'm very skeptical of the video's content, unless people want to start naming and shaming tunes that dumb down knock sensing and showing those maps, I am inclined to take it with a pinch of salt.

The video's long-and-short is "Your DAZA motor will die unless you get an Inifinit tune" without much other than a bunch of dead looking engines and bluster to back it up.
 
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I agree, especially how I have seen these cars driven in and around Manchester. Nothing is bullet proof.

I'm very skeptical of the video's content, unless people want to start naming and shaming tunes that dumb down knock sensing and showing those maps, I am inclined to take it with a pinch of salt.

The video's long-and-short is "Your DAZA motor will die unless you get an Inifinit tune" without much other than a bunch of dead looking engines and bluster to back it up.

Scary the way I see them driven around the northwest.
RS3 ownership just attracts fools who spoil things for the few owners that aren’t complete tools.

Generally the 1st words out of and RS3 owners mouth on buying one are “I want to remap it etc”


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Scary the way I see them driven around the northwest.
RS3 ownership just attracts fools who spoil things for the few owners that aren’t complete tools.

Generally the 1st words out of and RS3 owners mouth on buying one are “I want to remap it etc”


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Well, I am not sure tuning equates to driving it like a tosser / without mechanical sympathy ...

Even if the Golf R loons would like me to launch them off every set of lights.
 
Well, I am not sure tuning equates to driving it like a tosser / without mechanical sympathy ...

Even if the Golf R loons would like me to launch them off every set of lights.

In most cases it does lol….


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I follow someone on social media who's car has gone bang at stage 2 from a respected Tuner. These engines mostly seem to go from bent rods due to too much boost low down and a big torque spike. Accelerating hard at low revs and riding the torque appears to find the weak spot when the pistons have low momentum and are expected to rapidly increase speed. I always drop a few gears one at a time before before applying full throttle. I also went for a revo tune as it has a very flat torque curve. The fist thing I did to the car was fit an Apr intercooler to keep things safe. I had read the piston damage is caused by poor fuel and not the best ignition ****** from some tuners..Th is is only what I have read and am just repeating this ;as my knowledge of turbo cars is limited.
 
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I follow someone on social media who's car has gone bang at stage 2 from a respected Tuner. These engines mostly seem to go from bent rods due to too much boost low down and a big torque spike. Accelerating hard at low revs and riding the torque appears to find the weak spot when the pistons have low momentum and are expected to rapidly increase speed.
I think some tuners think they are being clever, capping the torque at just below the problem level. It only takes something small when you are at peak torque to push it over. Long flat torque curve is a long time in the zone.

A lot of what I see photographed is one cylinder that has failed badly, leading me to believe it is a combination of things but a tune pushing the limits combined with bad fuel/oil/parts/maintenance being the straw that breaks the camel's back

I also went for a revo tune as it has a very flat torque curve. The fist thing I did to the car was fit an Apr intercooler to keep things safe. I had read the piston damage is caused by poor fuel and not the best ignition ****** from some tuners..Th is is only what I have read and am just repeating this ;as my knowledge of turbo cars is limited.
My car is bone stock, the only thing I would do is a conservative stage 1 map and I would also add the intercooler for safety. REVO is high on my list for both.

I only really need the map for the additions that cure some of the niggles like cold start wastegate etc, car is fast enough. A map to make things smoother and more drivable (including the TCU) can actually be better for the car if driven right

Some of the things the car does itself scare me sometimes, like if you need to put your foot down from low revs in comfort, that delay before all hell breaks loose can't be good for anything, so I try to avoid doing that as much as I can. The fact it seems to do a mild 'rolling antilag' itself also worries me a bit.
 
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I think this is an interesting watch, also his previous build which let go. Not average use by any stretch and he does hammer the car but interesting none the less.

What I find most interesting is how long it ran before letting go, leading me to think it is fuel/oil/part quality/maintenance etc as I said before.

 
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I think this is an interesting watch, also his previous build which let go. Not average use by any stretch and he does hammer the car but interesting none the less.

What I find most interesting is how long it ran before letting go, leading me to think it is fuel/oil/part quality/maintenance etc as I said before.



It’s funnier reading all the Armchair mechanics posting stupid comments in his media feeds


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Jeeez just made the mistake of attempting to watch the Infinit “what causes wastegate rattle”

I’ve never seen videos that are so all over the place, guy presenting it looks stoned.
3/4 of the way through it turns into a “look at my flash car”

Why the hell would anyone want to look at pallets of tins at the beginning .


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As well as people wanting to make them as loud as possible.

There’s a pre facelift that drives around these parts near me and it’s popping / banging etc all the time.
The tide has turned now, people are noticeably less tolerant of noisy cars that pop and bang just for the sake of it.


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There’s a pre facelift that drives around these parts near me and it’s popping / banging etc all the time.
The tide has turned now, people are noticeably less tolerant of noisy cars that pop and bang just for the sake of it.


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Remember a video someone posted on here of some YouTube knobber in theirs that just popped rat a tat tat all the time even when just normal driving and it was ****** awful.

No idea who thinks that sounds good.
 
Remember a video someone posted on here of some YouTube knobber in theirs that just popped rat a tat tat all the time even when just normal driving and it was ****** awful.

No idea who thinks that sounds good.

As bad as these type of muppets.




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I shall pop my flame proof over alls on why asking this...
Reading above i have a seen a few things that i completely agree with but quite a few question raising points for me a relatively new owner.
"bad fuel" does this mean any none premium fuels? i use momentum or V power?
Poor / Bad oil... i plan on using Castrol Edge oil. Is this ok?
I would like a little more from the car if possible. Stage 1 level of power will do me just fine.
I was thinking Forge turbo elbow and maybe their larger intake pipe ? Then a stage 1 remap. I am still unsure who to entrust with the map though.
Does this put me in the "boy racer" group? I have zero intentions of messing with the exhaust. and hate pops and bangs on a road car.
 
"bad fuel" does this mean any none premium fuels? i use momentum or V power?
We are lucky in the UK, we tend to get better quality fuels than across the pond. A lot will say there is no benefit to the expensive fuels but I tend to find less injector trouble when run on fuels with good detergent packages. Given what bad injectors can do I think it is cheap insurance.

If you run it on the cheapest supermarket stuff you can find and then launch it left and right you tend to get what you deserve eventually, even if you are not running a 97/98 map

Poor / Bad oil... i plan on using Castrol Edge oil. Is this ok?
ALL oil will degrade with time, no matter how good it is. Best thing you can do is change it more frequently and keep it more in the better performing zone with less carbon and other crap in suspension. Obviously certain oils will degrade slower under the harsh temperatures of a tuned turbo car, sometimes that can be significant.

Although I do have favourite oils, most mainstream oils will be fine, any concerns, don't sweat the flavour just change it more frequently.
 
I have never launched my car. Personally have never found a moment that required/ merited it. Each to their own but seems something more for competition? If i ever had to put cheap fuel in it would be just enough for me to reach my favoured fuel. The plan was to change oil and filter every 6 month / 5k miles but continue with the annual services at the garage i have decided to use to maintain the history and for the extra set of eyes looking over the car.
If an injector started to fail would the car not pick it up?
 
I have never launched my car. Personally have never found a moment that required/ merited it. Each to their own

Was not aimed at you, more most of the other muppets that do and complain when things break, I think there is a reason Audi softened the launch with the DNWA. Mine has never been launched and I don't overly feel the need either. Not what I bought it for. Plenty on youtube show what it can do.

If an injector started to fail would the car not pick it up?
The problem might only manifest itself under high temp/load/torque conditions, by then it is too late. That was the whole point of the thread.

Infinit claim they could add lines to the code to flash the EML if it detected a range if impending problems. I can see the merit of that but I think it is unnecessary if fuel/oil and maintenance etc are up to it and not driven like a muppet by keep pushing a car that is obviously not running right.
 
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I shall pop my flame proof over alls on why asking this...
Reading above i have a seen a few things that i completely agree with but quite a few question raising points for me a relatively new owner.
"bad fuel" does this mean any none premium fuels? i use momentum or V power?
Poor / Bad oil... i plan on using Castrol Edge oil. Is this ok?
I would like a little more from the car if possible. Stage 1 level of power will do me just fine.
I was thinking Forge turbo elbow and maybe their larger intake pipe ? Then a stage 1 remap. I am still unsure who to entrust with the map though.
Does this put me in the "boy racer" group? I have zero intentions of messing with the exhaust. and hate pops and bangs on a road car.
I think even Good quality 99 Ron fuel could have a bad batch. I have read some custom tuners cut back the knock sensors so it won't detect this. This could be urban myth though. The forge elbow again I have heard rubs on the brake master cylinder. I went revo stage 1 with standard intake but a larger intercooler. I wanted to go with a mainstream off the shelf tune and revo suited as it had a flat torque curve. Flashed a few miles from home and allows stage 2 if I want. Which I do after a year of stage 1. I looked at DMS but it had too much of a torque spike for my liking and could bend a rod if I was lazy and floored from low revs. I am so happy with the revo tune. Maybe I could have had faster and more power but hopefully its one of the safest and very happy with the odd big pop in sports setting.
 
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I went revo stage 1 with standard intake but a larger intercooler. I wanted to go with a mainstream off the shelf tune and revo suited as it had a flat torque curve.
I think it is one of the safest and best developed maps for the FL RS3. The fact they had development cars of their own says a lot. I like the tick list of 'fixes'. Stage 1 with their intercooler would be my choice as I think it is a neat installation.

If they would do a flexible set of maps for the SPS I would have done it but I am trying to see if there are better options.

How are you finding it? Has it made the power delivery a bit more linear?
 
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Is the intercooler really that close to the edge of what it can do as standard? I get that bigger and better flowing is key to safe smooth power but i assumed the base car was good for stage 1 as is?
Regarding the Forge turbo elbow... the issue of touching the brake master cylinder . I have only ever heard this with the revo solid item? I was told it was down to both being made for left hand drive cars but that the silicone option can be fitted to clear it? Maybe more research is needed
 
Is the intercooler really that close to the edge of what it can do as standard? I get that bigger and better flowing is key to safe smooth power but i assumed the base car was good for stage 1 as is?
Regarding the Forge turbo elbow... the issue of touching the brake master cylinder . I have only ever heard this with the revo solid item? I was told it was down to both being made for left hand drive cars but that the silicone option can be fitted to clear it? Maybe more research is needed

Revo elbow doesn’t touch the master cylinder tip at all.
I ran one for nearly 18 months.

The smaller Unitronic does though.


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Do REVO cap the torque? I know when i spoke to MRC they said there was no need to cap the torque if the gearbox had been mapped too
 
Is the intercooler really that close to the edge of what it can do as standard? I get that bigger and better flowing is key to safe smooth power but i assumed the base car was good for stage 1 as is?
You are looking for black and white answers, life is not like that, tuning cars certainly is not either. Anybody that gives you a black and white answer either does not really know what they are talking about or is trying to sell you something :friendly wink:

The intercooler will make things better, it is not wrong without it and right with it. The car will pull less timing with it on hotter days or longer duration of higher power use and I can see the benefit on an engine that runs hot anyway. Same reason I run 5w40 oil, nothing wrong with 5w30 but on an engine that runs hot 5w40 makes sense as I don't care so much about about emissions or efficiency.

It is all odds, margin and percentages, the way I look at it the intercooler will add a little back to the margin I have taken off with stage 1, nothing more.

Regarding the Forge turbo elbow... the issue of touching the brake master cylinder . I have only ever heard this with the revo solid item? I was told it was down to both being made for left hand drive cars

Revo elbow was made for RHD. They are based in UK and their development car was RHD. AFAIK the Revo elbow is still best for RHD cars
 
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Ah. The only car i have seen close up that was modded had the REVO elbow and he pointed out a couple of times the place where it had hit the master cylinder? Maybe a fitting issue, who knows. I am looking for facts that help me back up my ideas and theories. I fully understand everything is open to interpretation. I had a couple of older Audis i slowly tweaked to improve them where needed . I tried to spend money on the areas that were needed and that i was pushing the car towards. I had a 2001 rs4 last and that too was at stage 1 level of tune after about a year of ownership. They too are said to run hot but my intakes never reflected that. So i didn't fit a aftermarket cooler as they where very expensive and at my level wasn't really "needed" I had older vagcom that allowed me to check the intake temps so i tried to make the informed choice. I sadly haven't got the correct new lead as of yet so I'm flying a little blind.
I looked for bottle necks and tried to smooth them out where i could. It seems with this car it is going to be a little harder.
The search and battle goes on...
 
I think it is one of the safest and best developed maps for the FL RS3. The fact they had development cars of their own says a lot. I like the tick list of 'fixes'. Stage 1 with their intercooler would be my choice as I think it is a neat installation.

If they would do a flexible set of maps for the SPS I would have done it but I am trying to see if there are better options.

How are you finding it? Has it made the power delivery a bit more linear?
I went with APR for the intercooler as I liked the fact I could run with the USA crash bar which looked totally OEM just moved out a few cm and came with all the foam inserts. Did not want a cut away crash bar that stood out as modified. The MOT is under review atm that if you reduce OEM safety it may fail in the future. I changed the intercooler First as I had a few overtakes on hot days and it backed off the power. Was a bit un nerving as thought I had judged it well , to find power dropped and it slowed up. Thought its then ready for stage 2 also. Very happy with the Revo tune. Very OEM in delivery just faster. And gave a bit more of the original sound back that I lost after some gearbox warranty work. Audi said no software updates were done but all the downshift pops disappeared
 
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I went with APR for the intercooler as I liked the fact I could run with the USA crash bar which looked totally OEM just moved out a few cm and came with all the foam inserts. Did not want a cut away crash bar that stood out as modified. The MOT is under review atm that if you reduce OEM safety it may fail in the future.
That is the impression of both cars with the Revo stage 1 I have been in. I like their tune for the list of fixes too, cold start and left foot braking is useful in a car that needs trail braking a bit more than most.

Was the Revo intercooler available when you fitted yours? I only say that because it is the only one I know that fits to a stock UK car no cutting. A lot will say it is not as good as others because of that but for me at stage 1 it would be perfect. I think it is the biggest thing that can be squeezed in to a UK crash bar. To keep as much of everything else stock is quite important to me also.
 
That is the impression of both cars with the Revo stage 1 I have been in. I like their tune for the list of fixes too, cold start and left foot braking is useful in a car that needs trail braking a bit more than most.

Was the Revo intercooler available when you fitted yours? I only say that because it is the only one I know that fits to a stock UK car no cutting. A lot will say it is not as good as others because of that but for me at stage 1 it would be perfect. I think it is the biggest thing that can be squeezed in to a UK crash bar. To keep as much of everything else stock is quite important to me also.
The revo was not available when I fitted mine. I ran it for 2 years before going stage 1. The issue now is what downpipe to get. I don't fancy the old style miltek sports cat downpipe as the welding and steps in it look terrible. I was going to get BCS powervalve but I have been told 4 inch will be very laggy on stock turbo. Don't know how true that is. Has to be a revo dealer to fit this and have read some garages have messed up the driveshaft by fitting incorrectly. Love the stage 1 and got 46 mpg on way back from a holiday on the motorway at 60 mph.
 
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The revo was not available when I fitted mine. I ran it for 2 years before going stage 1. The issue now is what downpipe to get. I don't fancy the old style miltek sports cat downpipe as the welding and steps in it look terrible. I was going to get BCS powervalve but I have been told 4 inch will be very laggy on stock turbo. Don't know how true that is. Has to be a revo dealer to fit this and have read some garages have messed up the driveshaft by fitting incorrectly. Love the stage 1 and got 46 mpg on way back from a holiday on the motorway at 60 mph.
I had the Scorpion downpipe on mine (4 inch) with the decat and the sports cat to swap over on mot day. I swapped over to the Milltek downpipe with sports cat because of the lag, the Scorpion was very loud but great from 4000rpm onwards no doubt but when I went from revo stage 1 to stage 2 it felt slower because of the lag. The other reason I went to Milltek was I'm sure it's what revo used when developing their stage 2 and although the Milltek is pretty ugly my local VAG specialist said the fit was a lot better than the Scorpion. It was quite a noticeable difference with the Milltek in the lower rpm with much quicker spooling.
I wish I'd gone Milltek first instead of wasting money by trying to save money.
 
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Me again...
I have watched the video that was kind of the reason for the thread now ( sorry , should have done this first )
"ALL Rs3's will fail if they don't have our safe guarding " seems a bit of a stretch? Surely all reputable tuners would not code out / turn off any factory safe guarding ?
I would have thought that was as much a tuning tool as anything else?
With previous cars i have had higher intake temps cause the ecu to pull back timing ( safety feature i am guessing ) although annoying it didn't damage the car so was ok with that. Surely if it was something my 2001 Audi had this car has it too?
I also asked about oil... after reading / asking on here i was stood in traffic last night and noticed the oil temp gauge what is "ok" my car did show 102 degree after 30 min stood. within half a mile of steady 40mph driving it was back down to around 90. is this normal? spirited driving ive never seen it get anywhere near this. I am guessing air flow keeps it cool enough?
 
With previous cars i have had higher intake temps cause the ecu to pull back timing ( safety feature i am guessing ) although annoying it didn't damage the car so was ok with that. Surely if it was something my 2001 Audi had this car has it too?
Yes this engine will pull timing to protect itself, the latest engines have strong mechanisms to protect themselves, that is how they can maintain stoichiometric AFR so well. The point is if you are pulling timing, you are:
1. Wasting money on any further (and probably half what you have already spent) performance mods because if it is pulling timing you have hit the limit.
2. If it is pulling timing you are at the limit of what the engine can handle, any further failure or issue could push it over the edge
Personally if my car was pulling timing I would not run it like that but ETTO
I am guessing air flow keeps it cool enough?
Yes airflow cools the car, when you stop it has to rely on the fan pushing air through the radiator which is less powerful than an RS3 pushing the radiator through the air, surprisingly :friendly wink:
 
Jeeez just made the mistake of attempting to watch the Infinit “what causes wastegate rattle”

I’ve never seen videos that are so all over the place, guy presenting it looks stoned.
3/4 of the way through it turns into a “look at my flash car”

Why the hell would anyone want to look at pallets of tins at the beginning .


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That would be me :) thank you for the kind words. I am new to YouTube, learning a lot along the way. Production quality improves with each video so please, bear with me! Trying to impart some of the things I've learned to you all.

Fun fact, we have over 500 cars globally running rolling launch control on the factory ECU, we have never lost an engine to rolling launch control other than one that was already running 700hp on the stock engine. Please have a little bit more of an understanding of what you are referencing exactly as you are bashing my product, there are different strategies that can be implemented to use rolling launch. Spark cut and fuel cut, also do a little bit of research into the nmax function. This way you will be a lot more prepared when going onto bash any companies RAL implementation.

Was not expecting this video to blow up as much as it did but I think some need to do a little bit of more real world research. I deal with a very high number of DAZA and DNWA engine failures on a monthly basis. Read the comments on that video, join the American RS3 groups on Facebook, there is a failure every single day no matter who the tuner is. Fact! We built 36 engines last year alone. Zero were tuned by us, we have not had a failure since we introduced engine safety algorithms 3 years ago. There are 30+ engine blocks with holes in them at my shop, countless crank, anyone is welcome to visit at any time.

The fact of the matter is that the stock knock control system on this engine is simply not enough to save the engine when things go wrong on tuned cars, the stock knock control system is designed for stock boost levels and stock ignition. It would be nice if this engine had ion sensing capabilities within the coil packs for added protections.

Ontop of that we find it to be common practice for tuners to be numbing down the knock sensors to make power. For example I commonly see 18 even 19 degrees of ignition at the top end with the waste gate pinned and cars running on 99 octane fuel (stage 2) with NO timing corrections. On the stock knock control sensitivity, it is not possible to run more than approx 15/16 degrees of ignition on 99 octane fuel. If you are running 18/19, your knock sensitivity has been dulled.

Please please do your research, another one worth looking into is the boost profile on the RS3 8Y vs RS3 8V. Boost comes in slower on the 8Y which again proves audi know about these engines shooting rods from heavy amounts of boost at low rpms, yet we have tuners making 2bar at 2500rpm. Just because the turbo can do it, does not mean it is safe for the engine. This is another reason why the stock turbocharger will kill more engines than any hybrid turbo ever will. The stock turbo is capable of creating an insane amount of boost at extremely low rpms. 2bar of boost at 2500rpm is very different to 2bar of boost at 7000rpm. Practical example, think about the strain on your knees on a bike going up a big hill in a high gear and low speed vs high speed.

It is commonly mentioned 'limit the torque to stop the rods from exiting on the engine' This is extremely vague and means absolutley nothing. Again as above, 700nm at 2500rpm vs 700nm at 7000rpm are very different things. Another issue is, all tunes making over 700nm on the stock turbocharger as over 700nm can only be made between approx 2500rpm and 3500rpm which is a danger zone, engine has little momentum. The stock turbo is not capable of making that kind of torque past 4k rpm, which is why it is normal to see the waste gate pinned past this point to try and create as much boost as possible.

If knock sensitivities were left alone, boost came in at 3300-3500 as per 8Y boost profile funnily enough, ignition was capped at 15.75 we would not see half as many failures as we do.

I advise everyone to log their cars. My understanding of this engine, what it can take and what it cannot take is a result of personally stripping over 75 engines over the last 5 years, analysing the software and identifying the root cause of failure on each car. I know why these engines fail.

Another one that gets me.. Rod bearing failure isolated to a single rod which we see a lot of. Always gets blamed on the oil pump by experts/professionals in this industry. WRONG. Rod bearings get chewed up from running too much ignition at higher rpms, out of all of the engines rebuilt by us we have only replaced oil pumps when a rod has gone through it. All of our engines go out the door with 3 year 40k mile warranties so go figure! We have never seen an oil pump fail on this engine to date. If it was oil pump failure we would see evidence of it across the engine, not just on one cylinder.

This reminds me of a time back in 2015, on another popular uk based RS3 forum, I purchased a pre facelift RS3 and posted about how catastrophically bad the braking system was on it. I got a lot of hate from all of the forum members and other owners of the car. I am starting to feel this is natural defence mechanism for most. Can people not handle uncomfortable truths about this car? I got banned from that forum. Fast forward to 2017 and it was widely known and accepted on how bad the braking system is on that car, hell, Audi even changed the design of the brakes completely on that exact same model of car, got rid of the wavey discs completely.

Don't even get me started about the transfer box which is a sealed for life unit on the 8V but a service every 20k unit on the RSQ3 and 8Y RS3. It is the exact same box on the 8Y and RSQ3. Audi make mistakes all the time!

Please, if anyone has any questions fire away. I'd love to answer them all for you.
 
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That would be me :) thank you for the kind words. I am new to YouTube, learning a lot along the way. Production quality improves with each video so please, bear with me! Trying to impart some of the things I've learned to you all.

Fun fact, we have over 500 cars globally running rolling launch control on the factory ECU, we have never lost an engine to rolling launch control other than one that was already running 700hp on the stock engine. Please have a little bit more of an understanding of what you are referencing exactly as you are bashing my product, there are different strategies that can be implemented to use rolling launch. Spark cut and fuel cut, also do a little bit of research into the nmax function. This way you will be a lot more prepared when going onto bash any companies RAL implementation.

Was not expecting this video to blow up as much as it did but I think some need to do a little bit of more real world research. I deal with a very high number of DAZA and DNWA engine failures on a monthly basis. Read the comments on that video, join the American RS3 groups on Facebook, there is a failure every single day no matter who the tuner is. Fact! We built 36 engines last year alone. Zero were tuned by us, we have not had a failure since we introduced engine safety algorithms 3 years ago. There are 30+ engine blocks with holes in them at my shop, countless crank, anyone is welcome to visit at any time.

The fact of the matter is that the stock knock control system on this engine is simply not enough to save the engine when things go wrong on tuned cars, the stock knock control system is designed for stock boost levels and stock ignition. It would be nice if this engine had ion sensing capabilities within the coil packs for added protections.

Ontop of that we find it to be common practice for tuners to be numbing down the knock sensors to make power. For example I commonly see 18 even 19 degrees of ignition at the top end with the waste gate pinned and cars running on 99 octane fuel (stage 2) with NO timing corrections. On the stock knock control sensitivity, it is not possible to run more than approx 15/16 degrees of ignition on 99 octane fuel. If you are running 18/19, your knock sensitivity has been dulled.

Please please do your research, another one worth looking into is the boost profile on the RS3 8Y vs RS3 8V. Boost comes in slower on the 8Y which again proves audi know about these engines shooting rods from heavy amounts of boost at low rpms, yet we have tuners making 2bar at 2500rpm. Just because the turbo can do it, does not mean it is safe for the engine. This is another reason why the stock turbocharger will kill more engines than any hybrid turbo ever will. The stock turbo is capable of creating an insane amount of boost at extremely low rpms. 2bar of boost at 2500rpm is very different to 2bar of boost at 7000rpm. Practical example, think about the strain on your knees on a bike going up a big hill in a high gear and low speed vs high speed.

It is commonly mentioned 'limit the torque to stop the rods from exiting on the engine' This is extremely vague and means absolutley nothing. Again as above, 700nm at 2500rpm vs 700nm at 7000rpm are very different things. Another issue is, all tunes making over 700nm on the stock turbocharger as over 700nm can only be made between approx 2500rpm and 3500rpm which is a danger zone, engine has little momentum. The stock turbo is not capable of making that kind of torque past 4k rpm, which is why it is normal to see the waste gate pinned past this point to try and create as much boost as possible.

If knock sensitivities were left alone, boost came in at 3300-3500 as per 8Y boost profile funnily enough, ignition was capped at 15.75 we would not see half as many failures as we do.

I advise everyone to log their cars. My understanding of this engine, what it can take and what it cannot take is a result of personally stripping over 75 engines over the last 5 years, analysing the software and identifying the root cause of failure on each car. I know why these engines fail.

Another one that gets me.. Rod bearing failure isolated to a single rod which we see a lot of. Always gets blamed on the oil pump by experts/professionals in this industry. WRONG. Rod bearings get chewed up from running too much ignition at higher rpms, out of all of the engines rebuilt by us we have only replaced oil pumps when a rod has gone through it. All of our engines go out the door with 3 year 40k mile warranties so go figure! We have never seen an oil pump fail on this engine to date. If it was oil pump failure we would see evidence of it across the engine, not just on one cylinder.

This reminds me of a time back in 2015, on another popular uk based RS3 forum, I purchased a pre facelift RS3 and posted about how catastrophically bad the braking system was on it. I got a lot of hate from all of the forum members and other owners of the car. I am starting to feel this is natural defence mechanism for most. Can people not handle uncomfortable truths about this car? I got banned from that forum. Fast forward to 2017 and it was widely known and accepted on how bad the braking system is on that car, hell, Audi even changed the design of the brakes completely on that exact same model of car, got rid of the wavey discs completely.

Don't even get me started about the transfer box which is a sealed for life unit on the 8V but a service every 20k unit on the RSQ3 and 8Y RS3. It is the exact same box on the 8Y and RSQ3. Audi make mistakes all the time!

Please, if anyone has any questions fire away. I'd love to answer them all for you.

Stumbled onto this post. Are you saying even stock engines are at risk? Forgive me if I missed something.


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Please, if anyone has any questions fire away. I'd love to answer them all for you.

Aoon, thank you for taking the time to do a comprehensive reply, couple of things if I may.
As I said above, I can see the merit in flashing the EML and reigning things in if certain things are not running right, makes sense. I can see that the stock turbo will spool quicker than bigger hybrid ones, same as the IS20 vs IS38 on the EA888.

Some seem to think they should be able to drive the car how they like and it not break but IMHO if you drive it like an idiot anything will break. If I need the rs3 to get a move on/overtake I change down to use the power higher up the rev range. I use the torque for easy relaxed driving. I don't use the low down torque for acceleration. This has always been a problem, if not in the engine it will be clutch gearbox or rear drive. Since I started driving tuned turbo cars in the 80s we have had to be careful how and where we used the power. I don't find people feel the need to think like that today.

I agree that having stupid low down boost can be an issue but that is down to mapping, are you saying the failures are down to combinations of issues that need both low down torque limits but also warning of bad components? A lot of cars seem to run fine for a long while before letting go and to me that screams maintenance. What kind of things are you seeing that you need to protect against in software?

I do not doubt there may be better ways to do RAL but when you look at what you are asking it to do it can't be a good thing for the car

Don't even get me started about the transfer box

Yes I agree, frequent changes of oil is never a bad thing on anything. I also found out the early RS3 does not have the revised rocker bearing either. I am under no misconceptions about the possible problems with this car, just like every one I have had.

Stumbled onto this post. Are you saying even stock engines are at risk? Forgive me if I missed something.

As I said above IMHO if you don't drive it like an idiot and maintain it properly (don't leave the oil in it for 2 years for a start) you will be fine. If you do then anything will break. It may be harder to do on a stock car than a tuned one but it does happen