B7 general discussion/chat thread.

Its just an old press to be honest, probably 30+ plus years of use has taken its toll.
Seals are shot and the valve is letting fluid pass , probably cheaper to just buy a complete new bench press these days, was only ever a low end one anyway and a bit flimsy.

In some ways , the £120 i saved by just getting the carrier and bearing would offset a new one and i'd have a new one allmost free, but do i really need one these days , maybe not.
 
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I opted for just the bearing and carrier as I wanted to enjoy the struggle to get the old bearing off and new one onto the flange, and it was £50 ish per side cheaper..lol

You dont need a hydraulic press, but if you have a decent large heavy duty vise it works just aswell to push them onto the flange stub, just use some thick steel plate on both side of the assembly and make sure it is all centered in the vise, and use an extension bar to wind the handle in.
Thats how I have done it in the past (big vice) but it's much easier just to replace the hub complete - 1 off, 1 on. Simples....... :smile new:
 
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Thats how I have done it in the past (big vice) but it's much easier just to replace the hub complete - 1 off, 1 on. Simples....... :smile new:
Agreed but i just like a challenge...lol
 
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It definitely is, if the hub carrier is in situ or secured in a vice... I'm still having to remove mine from the broken hub carrier/knuckle... now the one I got has a good used one on there but, I rather put the one I was using on it.. simply because there is nothing wrong with it. Without a vice there is only one way to break that corrosion bond.... put the bolts in halfway and bang them down with a hammer and a piece of wood as a protecting barrier ( also want to keep those bolts as they look almost new) something I'll do when the thing shows up today providing it's delivered at a decent time...
 
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Heat is your friend , just remove the ABS sensor first before warming the area around the carrier, if it wont come out with a struggle, which if it has been in since new is very likely going to be solid.
 
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ABS sensor is already off and it's bolt came out without a problem... I'll have a go first with the method I described since I lack a vice, but can repurpose an old pallet for this task. It's a non EU one so it's bigger and the space between the slats is big enough to provide some space for the hub to come off without it getting any damage from a drop.
 
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Worked like a charm! Right so just got sent a message by the delivery driver he'll be around before 12... let's hope putting it back together goes smoothly.. it should but we all know that sometimes the parts like to throw a wobbly, all is clean and ready so it shouldn't be to troublesome.
 
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Argh! Car threw a wobbly... front OS rear bottom arm this time... the balljoint needs re-threading probably on account of me being a bit to rough removing it...
Now I don't want to replace the whole arm just because of this so can anyone tell me what size die I need to cut it?
 
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after some digging i found that the bottom rear balljoints use M12 x 1.5 i ordered a tap and die set... as there is nothing wrong with the arm just the top of the thread is f-ed so bad it eats the bolts. i stripped 3 of them ( no worries i got 4 more)
 
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FYI I used the angle-grinder to get rid of the wonky bit made sure it was straight. It now has a little ridge that is causing the problem... so I'll use the die-set (M12x1.5) to re-thread the balljoint stud and than it should be fine. Problem was not one seller that did overnight delivery was cheap enough and i refuse to replace the arm just because of the balljoint that clearly can be saved. So if i'm lucky I'll get it on the tap & die set on Thursday but I suspect it to be Friday at the earliest.
 
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Allways a spanner thrown into the works , life would be boring without these little challenges. :thumbs up:
 
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New bearings arrived yesterday which was a surprise, allways a bit skeptical with next day services.
On my current quest to locate the source the steering wheel shake, I realised last night that I have a new pair of Bilstein. Track rod ends left over from the suspension kit, I never fitted them , but may aswell do them to at the same time, it’s allway possible a worn track end may be the culprit.
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Have a spare hour this morning so started prep work on the lemans, a nice soothing sanding for this one.
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1 all sanded and ready to prime/paint, 3 to go.
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I need to do the exact same thing to the wheels (a smaller version of yours) on my car. :disappointed:
 
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I need to do the exact same thing to the wheels (a smaller version of yours) on my car. :disappointed:
Its one of those jobs that most owners offload to a refuber, well I do as well normally but as the guy has put his prices up I'm not paying £400+ vat to get them done .

I kinda enjoy the process to be honest, something very satisfying about doing this sort of job and seeing the rewards at the end. It's a bit of a messy process and a bit time-consuming but when done they will look nice and only costing me £80 to do all 4, its a no brainer really.

Leaves me over £300 to spend on the engine work.
 
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A bit of everything.
a couple of handheld palm sanders, drill with wire brushes and sander and good old fashioned hands..lol
Nothing to aggressive thus far, but may need to get the sandblaster out for one of the rims..
 
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Hi Rob - which P/Nos did you order from them? I have used them before for parts & seeing as how I have to do the front bearings on my motah (yet again) so I might just pinch your idea? I prefer to buy them already fitted in a new hub (don't need a press or big hammers) & after all, us over 60s need to stick together............ :smile new:
I've used them a few times too.
 
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I know the black interior is soul
Would I be right in saying the dark grey is called swing ..asking for a friend


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I know the black interior is soul
Would I be right in saying the dark grey is called swing ..asking for a friend


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nope, they only list silver as the closest, otherwise it is beige/vanilla/soul
 
3dac325254c5ac1f1e7c95ad1331aa3a.jpg

This is the code I’ve got in service book N5D/QL ,would QL be the colour ?


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seat covering were offered in other colours, not the 4 primary main trim colours.

that pr code is optional equipment, i'll check my database.
 
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My original ones are 2 tone valcona platinum centers dark grey bolsters/ head rests ,considering listing them so want to get it right


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New bearings arrived yesterday which was a surprise, allways a bit skeptical with next day services.
On my current quest to locate the source the steering wheel shake, I realised last night that I have a new pair of Bilstein. Track rod ends left over from the suspension kit, I never fitted them , but may aswell do them to at the same time, it’s allway possible a worn track end may be the culprit.
View attachment 273710
you might want to check the inner track rods... 9 out of 10 times with cars reaching a certain age.. when they have a steering wobble the inner rods are worn and they are the last ones that get replaced because they are always hidden away really well and missed by most ( yes even MOT testers). They usually find them if a boot is ripped but that is about it.. they won't notice the wobble at the steering wheel as they don't daily drive it unless it's really really bad.
 
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The gaiters are ok , checked them last week when doing the driveshafts but you may have a point regarding the inner rod joint.
The shaking has been getting worse for a while and there is an irrating clonking on the drivers side, well feel that way when going over cats eyes and small bumps etc, sound like something is rattling around, but only on small stuff not bigger bumps etc.
It's not the suspension as all parts are not that old, nore can it be the suspension linkages as they are all new.
All that leaves is the track rod ends, which I have here, or wheel bearings, also here now, but as you say could be the inner track rod swivel joint.
Possibly steering rack issue but that's not that old either, given the swivel track rod joint being a weak link will have a closer look.

What I have noticed is this, with the car on the ground under load the is no apparent play in the steering wheel either with the engine running or off, but if the car is off the ground and the engine is off but the steering moveable there is a noticeable clonking on the driver's side when the wheel is moved left to right, couldn't pin point it over the weekend but sounded like from the top strut area, which is new , but that's where the inner track rod joint is, so maybe an issue with it after all.

But could also be the servotronic rack needing adjustment as they can develop play and it can be nipped up.

Lots to think about, may just buy a pair of inner track rods just in case, do it all in one go.
 
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Agreed, worse case If it still persists then that’s more bits off the list and they will be good for a few more years.
 
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1 all sanded and ready to prime/paint, 3 to go.
View attachment 273715
Cracking job there , looking good so far. I recall doing some for my wifes porsche cayenne years ago as a surprise present. Didnt have the luxury of being abloe to remove the tires and everything was done in one of my sheds in the cold november so not the best ideal surroundings but as you know prep is everything. Sanding was the absolute worst, wish I had access to a sand blaster. Loads of alcohol wipes and air compressor to get all the dust out . Came out ok to be fair but certainly nowhere as good as a proper place.
 
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Agreed but with kerbs and 35 profiles and pot holes it’s probably the better option than spend out shed loads only to be ruined later, and that’s a very likely possibly these days.
 
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With a bare rim at least covering will be over the whole rim instead of facing, I’ve got some decent paint too so should suffice for a few years at least.
 
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royal mail is a not the fastest are they? so yesterday i got send confirmation that i'll have the tap & die set delivered on the 18th (today) to recieve another update that it'll be tomorrow... now this is the service the sender used so they can delay it even longer and deliver on Saturday... I was ready to finish the work today... now i've got another 24 hours to wait.... in the meantime i checked around and the MOT station i normally use only has space for MOT's stating the 29th... So I'll just go in and ask them if they can squeeze me in between as basically they know what is left to check. But I'm quite sure that with how the lot is going there now (main office has installed camera's and checks everything) the answer will probably be no. We shall see, if i get a no that will be the last time i used them for anything. even though i hate what happened, the MOT tester that works there will find everything and I prefer it that way.
 
royal mail is a not the fastest are they? so yesterday i got send confirmation that i'll have the tap & die set delivered on the 18th (today) to recieve another update that it'll be tomorrow... now this is the service the sender used so they can delay it even longer and deliver on Saturday... I was ready to finish the work today... now i've got another 24 hours to wait.... in the meantime i checked around and the MOT station i normally use only has space for MOT's stating the 29th... So I'll just go in and ask them if they can squeeze me in between as basically they know what is left to check. But I'm quite sure that with how the lot is going there now (main office has installed camera's and checks everything the answer will probably be no. We shall see, if i get a no that will be the last time i used them for anything. even though i hate what happened, the MOT tester that works there will find everything and I prefer it that way.
Don't get me started on the Royal Mail. as they almost cost me a client as they delayed shipping their order to Germany so missed their event.
 
yeah it's annoying, thing is i think our mail man called in for a day off or something like that as not one single post-office van or mailman showed up yesterday. But the tracking tells me it's out for delivery between now and 14:30 so i'll be patient and wait until it arrives.
 
Royal Mail is dead company now, years of bad management has now left it a poor shadow of the business it used to be.
Sadly it will never be a viable or efficient mail or parcel company again , shame really as all the delivery guys I know work really hard but managers don’t know what they are doing and get paid stupid high salaries for being incompetent.
 
didn't matter I got the what I was waiting for... sorted the ball-joint out and put the car back together, found another garage that had space for an MOT and the car passed! I got transportation again. Note to all best to buy the lot in one go and I do hope you don't have the luck i had as once stuff breaks getting replacements asap is a nightmare... took 2 weeks to get the all the parts and sortout the MOT. can't believe I actually removed the lot and the car still tracks perfectly fine (the MOT had a free alignment check too and it's all in spec)
 
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