good home wanted for my 06 2.0 tdi sline runs and drives but stuck open injector so a little Smokey MOT till end of march 2024.open to offers

[John Clutton]

runs and drives but one stuck open injector so a little Smokey MOT till end of march 2024 would pass MOT with injector sorted out a little rough around the edges but no rot. cam belt water pump kit, air con compressor clutch, within 6000 miles. always serviced in my 8-9 year ownership, 18 inch alloys with good tyres. very sad to see her go, to good to scrap open to offers. Bedfordshire

 

[northpole]

mate run a diesel purge (25 quid max if you diy) and sell a proper running car at the normal price...most people don't want a car with a problem even if it's probably as simple as running a diesel purge and problem sorted (if you've never done it look on youtube it's simple and doesn't take a lot to do)

 

[John Clutton]

thank you im gonna try this next week

 

[Matt275]

I've always wondered how well the purge works...does it usually free up a sticky injector?

 

[northpole]

Yes that is the whole purpose of it... best product to use is LIQUIMOLY diesel purge. But it can be done with any diesel injector cleaner providing you rig it up for a purge ( basically run the car of that cleaner only with a filter in between so you can see the dirt that comes out)

 

[Pie-eyedpiper]

Yes that is the whole purpose of it... best product to use is LIQUIMOLY diesel purge. But it can be done with any diesel injector cleaner providing you rig it up for a purge ( basically run the car of that cleaner only with a filter in between so you can see the dirt that comes out)

I did mine a few months ago, and after seeing the YouTube video was expecting to see lots of dirt in the filter. The purge came out almost as it went in, hardly any sediment.
But then I do put a splash of 2T oil in my tank on most fill ups. Now I only put Diesel Purge into my fuel filter on services.

 

[northpole]

@Pie-eyedpiper if you add 2t oil or regualary run injector cleaners than your injectors won't really have anything in them... I ran diesels for the last 15 years and only when i just bought the cars the diesel purge removed loads of dirt from the injectors. After me doing the 2t oil for a while i swapped to using dipetane... and after that running a diesel purge had no result at all the fluid came back as clean as it went in. Needles to say i stopped using diesel purge on those cars. But if someone tells me they got a misfire/sticky injector on a diesel i always advise them to run a diesel purge first with liquimoly or dipetane or any other diesel injector cleaner)

PS dipetane can be used on both diesel and petrol engines... so i use it now on my petrol car too.

 

[Matt275]

What's 2T oil?

 

[B7Tourer]

2T oil = 2 stroke. Since it's a necessary lubricant for 2 stroke engines, some say it helps with diesels too. I've never used it nor would do since diesel aka 'diesel oil' already has some lubricant unlike petrol; but 'll defer to those with more experience

I must say and it's only my experience with my car; 1 car and my only ever diesel, YMMV and all that, but this BRE engined 140 Avant has been stellar now at 256K miles. I've never even so much as de carboned the EGR let alone the intake manifold, though I will be doing so soon as I can see a very slight oil seepage, from the gasket. The last MOT sailed the smoke test at a quarter of legal level and half Audi's ticket too. When I first got the car there was an EML light on (4 broken wires to the ECU) and I did have a bit of stuttering around 2000 rpm; but that cleared and I put it down to bad fuel used previously. A good blow out and premium fuel (V-Power or BP premium) since and I've never had it again. I do use an injector cleaner occasionally but sparingly: this is used and approved by Audi themselves: https://tinyurl.com/2mrhsj42

My car runs very smoothly and the only things done to it are: preventative upgraded oil pump from KMB at 230K; new pulleys/idlers at the front; and toothed belt helicoil for the idler at last belt change (same as pump). Everything else is standard, no deletes, including the original turbo and injectors. Oil pressure bang on and idle smooth. I'm not saying the purge advice isn't very sound in this case though and makes total sense; just that maybe I've been lucky but 6-8K oil changes and premium fuel have worked for me mainly and I just haven't had any issues for about 5 years with the engine. And I do a lot of short trips now (no DPF from birth though, fortunately )

 

[northpole]

that is because you tank premium fuel it has cleaners in it... but most people (especially with the recession going on) tank cheap supermarket fuel... these don't have the extra cleaners and have a higher content of biofuel.. biofuel has one nasty thing with it.. it leaves a layer of varnish behind that slowly clogs up the fuelsystem... this is why people either add 2t- oil, diesel system cleaners or injector cleaners as those are the first to start showing symptoms of the varnish (p.e. sticky injectors, or worse stuck open or closed injectors) the 2T oil breaks the varnish down and unsticks the lot, but for this purpose any diesel injector cleaner, diesel fuel system cleaner or diesel purge will do the job faster as they are made especially for this job, aka remove varnish, soot particles and algea etc from the fuelsystem and lubricate the moving parts.

the left field one that does all this and adds stuff to the fuel is dipetane... it just adds all the stuff that normally is found in premium fuel so if you tank cheap fuels Dipetane should really be used at time you fill up (dosage must be follew as instructed, but i have ran cars on it undiluted with fuel to do a complete fuelsystem clean out and it did a very good job at it).

Longstory short with diesel:
tank premium fuel all the time and injector failures will never happen ( the extra cleaners and lubrication in the premium fuel prevents it from happening)
tank cheap supermarket fuel and make sure that at least every other tank has some form of diesel injector cleaner or fuel system cleaner(enhancer) that also lubricates the moving parts of the fuelsystem.

This is what i have done for over 15 years without a problem with injectors ever, my mk4 golf gt tdi (bought at 70k)i ran until i had enough of it at 470+ K... i drove it to the scrappy, my vectra c DTI bought at 125k ran all the way to 307k+ and if it wasn't for the turbo seal popping resulting in a run away engine until it seized, I would still drive it today (yes i buy older cars that need work at scrap value money, fix them and drive them until i've had enough of them) So no need to add anything to premium fuel, but cheap fuel? best to run some form of cleaner to prevent sticky fuel injectors etc.

 

[Matt275]

When you say cheap fuel, do you mean supermarket diesel, or ie normal Shell diesel but not VPower diesel?

 

[northpole]

Any normal fuel, especially the e10 and e7 aka the cheaper ones, as they all buy it from the same refineries... only the premium fuels get treated to a special blend that have added cleaners, boosters(diesel cetane, petrol octane) and lubrication to battle the negative side effects from the ethanol content found in all of them.

That is why premium fuel only has max content of e5 (which is the percentage of ethanol where the 5 = 5%)
But some have less or non at all but and that is why they are more expensive as they are less eco friendly thus more tax is paid per liter.

Actually thought this was common knowledge.

 

[B7Tourer]

that is because you tank premium fuel it has cleaners in it...

Yes I believe in the premium diesel too and I do believe it is as you say for my car. A lot of people say it's a placebo con but I can only put the smooth running of my engine at that mileage down to it's usage; that and the 6-8K oil changes. I also think it more or less turns out the same cost as ordinary diesel because you get slightly higher miles to the gallon with it too. Audi recommend premium fuels in the handbook - both petrol and diesel. I also never let the tank below 1/4 full, normally half full in better economic times. The occasional injector cleaner too keeps it ticking over and ensures no issues before MOT also. I've found Wynn's Pre-MOT treatment to be pretty good also, together with the Audi stuff I linked to above.

The oil change frequencies I believe are important too because the camshafts are under a lot of pressure on these pump duse engines; the filter change actuually being more critical than the oil itself. The 2.0s and some of the 1.9s had a reputation for chocolate cams and this is why Audi were very specific about the type of oil used; I believe most of the oil issues on these engines were down to the wrong type of oil used and the long service intervals of 20K, which are ridiculous. They are even some high mileage BLB engine cars (chain drive pump/short hex key) around still, because they have been properly maintained.

A 2.0 TDI with worn camshafts will be almost impossible to get idling smoothly; diesels are known from new to have a slightly lumpy and anything out of the ordinary can be down to several things, e,g. worn engine mounts, DMF etc. but you can tell worn camshafts. My car idles like new I would say and again I can only put that down to luck and the above. I believe and there's plenty of evidence, such as yours, that these engines, properly maintained are capable of extremely high mileages and I see no reason that I couldn't get another 1-200K easily out of mine now the oil pump is sorted. That's pretty remarkable for a 4 cylinder engine of any kind. Of course it's no use if the body falls apart around it but I keep on top of that too.

 

[northpole]

lol i tank cheap supermarket fuel and add dipetane... i get more mileage and the engine idles smoother (dare i say like new) with it than just tanking premium fuel....which i tried before. i also run petrol injector cleaners every 3 months on top of it... but that is just me being me... but the emission test clearly showed that my car is running healthy as the numbers were that low the mot tester was convinced it either just had a terraclean or a rebuild.

 

[B7Tourer]

lol i tank cheap supermarket fuel and add dipetane...

Interesting and I might give it a try, just to compare mileage and cost and of course smooth running. Dipetane is £13.49 for a litre on Amazon; maybe you get it cheaper but it remains to be seen if that works out cheaper adding it to a full tank: 19p extra per litre extra on my 70 litre FWD tank, which I calculate ends up the same as using premium in the first place. As I say my last MOT smoke test was 1/4 legal limit; but I had used Wynn's Pre-Mot beforehand. I would dare to say my engine runs like new too; everyone comments on how smooth it is; maybe I am lucky and maybe I am operating on placebo mode but it works for me so far.

 

[northpole]

that bottle will do 200 litres of fuel... it will last you a lot longer and it'll workout cheaper than buying premium diesel. it actually costs you per litre of fuel 13.49/200=0.06745 so less than a penny really and it does a better job than the premium fuel... i got to try it when one of my mates who works as a maintenance mechanic for busses and coaches gave me a half a bottle and said try it it works on these prehistoric engines it'll work on your car without a problem. I've been using it ever since.

 

[B7Tourer]

I might just have to give it a whirl then in these economically challenged times, cheers.

 

[Matt275]

I'm tempted lol

 

[northpole]

I'm tempted lol

just do it... the worst that can happen is it might not be for you... you have to check how much fuel you tank if you go for a full tank than it's easy but still annoying you have to add the stuff. goodthing you can do it after you've tanked... 70 liters is 7 marks of the stuff on the bottle... I use a smaller bottle that takes enough for 5 liters as i usually only tank up to 1/2 full and i check how much fuel i've added. and that is how i top it up.