My minor modding thread

As you can see, not sure why this is....
38731f2ff16cc2d8da409741095e8e6a.jpg



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Looks fine to me... only plugs in one was as its keyed... the side of the black connector where your thumb is goes to the side of the red connector of your finger

<tuffty/>
 
<tuffty/> said:
Looks fine to me... only plugs in one was as its keyed... the side of the black connector where your thumb is goes to the side of the red connector of your finger

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

Yeah but if you look at the orientation of the Male flat pins mate, they can’t physically go into the female terminals. The other Socket was fine plugging in.... I wondered if it was a design fault?


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Ok... I see what you mean... I don't recall if mine was tight or the orientation but if I had to swap them I would have posted as such so assume I didn't...

I suspect it will go... you may have to wiggle a bit to force them open (ooo er) but I suspect it will go with a little jiggling...

What does the other OE plug look like? are the pins orientated differently?

<tuffty/>
 
<tuffty/> said:
Ok... I see what you mean... I don't recall if mine was tight or the orientation but if I had to swap them I would have posted as such so assume I didn't...

I suspect it will go... you may have to wiggle a bit to force them open (ooo er) but I suspect it will go with a little jiggling...

What does the other OE plug look like? are the pins orientated differently?

<tuffty/>
Click to expand...

The pins on the other sockets are the same as the OEM plugs, it’s just this one that the orientation is different. I looked through your thread to see if you mentioned having to change them round. I’ll try wiggling it in the morning, I’ve got a terminal pin swap tool coming tomorrow, all else fails I’ll just turn them round.

On a side note, how do you adjust the double dinn cage to close up the gap at the top? I’ve loosened as many bolts as I can but it’s not budging.


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S3AMJ said:
The pins on the other sockets are the same as the OEM plugs, it’s just this one that the orientation is different. I looked through your thread to see if you mentioned having to change them round. I’ll try wiggling it in the morning, I’ve got a terminal pin swap tool coming tomorrow, all else fails I’ll just turn them round.
Click to expand...

I never touched mine....

S3AMJ said:
On a side note, how do you adjust the double dinn cage to close up the gap at the top? I’ve loosened as many bolts as I can but it’s not budging.


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Click to expand...

Its fixed... without having one in front of me I wouldn't know exactly what to suggest... not sure there is enough room to slot the cage on its fixing bolts but would need to see one in front of me to be able to work something out

Would suggest you look into that before trimming the bottom of the RNS-E

<tuffty/>
 
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Cheers Tuffty, I’ll have a play around tomorrow with it all, I’ve done the research re trimming, just noticed some people have managed to close the gap up more on the top.... thought I had read some where someone managed to adjust the cage to allow vertical movement.
 
Your right mate I remember reading that some one had moved the cage up.
If i remember right I think he cut it and used brackets and screws to put it back together.
 
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audi upgrades
warren9022 said:
With the climate controls using the same cage I couldn’t see any other way of doing it than cutting the cage in half, bracing it and elongating the fixing holes to allow it to sit higher. This allowed the climate controls to stay in the right place but raise the RNS-e unit.
The only cutting involved then is the ‘ledge’ that is left when you remove the chrome strip meaning you don’t have to touch any of the visible bottom edge....guaranteeing a good finish.
There’s a few other bits you need to do but they will become apparent when you start doing it. The one thing I missed before it was all finished and fitted back in was the 2 ‘feet’ that the cup holder sits on the top of the cage, I left these untouched but obviously they were now about 5mm higher which stopped the cup holder working. Had to file them off through the cup holder gap :tearsofjoy:
Click to expand...
 
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Thanks TJ, I might have a go at this if I get the time today. Sorry Tuffty for jacking your thread.


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@S3AMJ It’s a bitch of a job to do but worth the effort, you’ll need to cut the cage in half and re-brace it at the right spacing and then fix every other problem that it creates :tearsofjoy:.

3BE6E938 61DD 48BD 956B 6E798B827BB4
 
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S3AMJ said:
Thanks TJ, I might have a go at this if I get the time today. Sorry Tuffty for jacking your thread.


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Click to expand...
Thats ok... I have been debating on getting another unit and having another go... depends if I can get the bits to fit the old one into the A2 so the info is useful :)

I am just happy someone is finding what I post useful :)

<tuffty/>
 
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Bit of a disappointment... went to use the car over the weekend and noticed this...
20180908 96dpi IMG 20180908 113150


Pretty sure I did this reversing into my parking bay last Sunday night after spending along day fitting the anti surge housing... was dark and I was tired and I'm pretty sure I caught the parking bay post :(

Looks worse than it is though... be dead easy for a PDR job... I'll sort it at some point but just glad I haven't had the car painted yet... :/

So I have a week off... first thing I did was wash the car... next thing was to remove the catch can and baffle it...

20180910 96dpi IMG 20180910 143513


Cut the bottom off...
20180910 96dpi IMG 20180910 150319


...and aqua blasted it...
20180910 96dpi IMG 20180910 153232


Cut up some ali...
20180910 96dpi IMG 20180910 155301


...and made some diverter plates...
20180910 96dpi IMG 20180910 171950


Added some perforated sheet...
20180910 96dpi IMG 20180910 173734


...and loosely stuffed it with stainless wire wool...
20180910 96dpi IMG 20180910 173944


...finally welded (well y00f did) the bottom back on...
20180910 96dpi IMG 20180910 175648


Happy with that... next job will be to paint it of course :)

Last little mod of the day was to sort the vent mounts for the tablet... they are a little chunky and distort the vanes a little too much for my liking... was a little worried that they may stay like that...
20180909 96dpi IMG 20180909 172407


Using a sharp knife I trimmed some of the silicon off the mounts...
20180909 96dpi IMG 20180909 172455


Much better...
20180909 96dpi IMG 20180909 172429


The other small tweak was to stick the metal plates directly to the back of the tablet... the supplied method wasn't enough to secure the heavy tablet and would detach itself occasionally so just peeled all the original sticky stuff off and used some stuff designed to stick number plates and trim on...

<tuffty/>
 
hydro s3 said:
What is the reason for baffling the catch can? Mine isn't baffled is it something I should do?
Click to expand...
Pressure from the crankcase was essentially blowing in and back out taking oil vapour with it... Baffling will actually 'catch' the oil and should only allow The air back out

<tuffty/>
 
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Painted a thing today...
20180911 96dpi IMG 20180911 182909


20180911 96dpi IMG 20180911 183236


Hopefully that should mean less oily residue :)

<tuffty/>
 
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so is that stainless welding you did there?

did you cut the bottom off and weld it originally to put the baffle in? I assume you empty it by just undoing the relatively pointless fill level ends? (that see through pipe does just get glooped up doesn't it?)
 
Stuart B said:
so is that stainless welding you did there?

did you cut the bottom off and weld it originally to put the baffle in? I assume you empty it by just undoing the relatively pointless fill level ends? (that see through pipe does just get glooped up doesn't it?)
Click to expand...
No mate... the catch can is aluminium.... started life as this over 4 years ago...
20140314_125908.jpg


Can was not baffled and the '19mm' inlets were still not big enough for what I wanted so modified the inlet/outlet to 25mm and ran with it until I saw the nice pattern on my old compressor cover...

There is no drain plug and I was going to fit one but tbh I have to take it out (which is easy) to drain it and I can just tip it upside down to do it... its only brown water that comes out anyway (thankfully) from condensation and oil vapour...

The sight tube stays fairly clean but over time will of course stain... no drama as replacement tube is 97p a meter :)

<tuffty/>
 
Yeah, it's the same as mine although mine's branded RSP. But the clear plastic tube just filled up, they are not baffled, I am tempted to do something similar to help. Where I put mine on the heat shield I could do with the right one being straight out back towards the head. So maybe a 30 degree bend.
 
Did a dyno day Sunday...





This was the first dyno run I have had since fitting the antisurge housing so was interested to see what she would do...
Dyno 20180916


605hp and 520ish ftlbs... not convinced on the peak and they never revved the car out for the first two runs...

605 is not as high as she has done but I knew that bringing more boost in earlier would have an affect on top end power but after checking the logs afterwards I can see why she was struggling a bit...
Dyno hot hot hot


near 100 deg coolant temps and 42deg intake temps!!... yes I was using meth and it was on and working... the issue here really was as it turns out that the dyno fan wasn't the best...

Another log view also shows that ECU calculated power was down... this I think was due to not enough load on the dyno... something that can be seen from the hump as the revs climb on boost... high power and low load won't work the engine as hard... probably just as well considering the temps :/

20180916 dynorun


On the way home I did a 3rd gear run just to reassure myself the engine was ok...
20180916 roadrun


Clearly all ok there so will try and grab a run on Bill's dyno at the weekend to validate where she is...

There is a bit of an overshoot of boost when it hits just over 5k so I think I may just back the boost out a little and make it less aggressive....

Main reason being reliability... if the engine did actually produce over 500ftlbs of torque then thats quite a lot to ask of the transmission and would rather not be changing gearboxes twice a year.... I would also prefer to keep the engine in one piece... not exactly sure where the limit of the std mains caps is but I think I would rather not find out...

She was quick enough before I fitted the antisurge housing so will look to fine tune this area to lift up from that map but not be as aggressive as she currently is...

You will also notice she 'smokes' a little in the vid... this is purely from the fairly rich AFR I run... I could lean it out a bit but tbh its only really rich at full throttle and its not like she's lacking in power... rather be safe than sorry...

Surprisingly despite the IAT's and ECT's being high (and oil too!) the EGT's were still sensible and there was no timing pull so happy with that

Bit more fettling to do though which is fine by me.. would be bored other wise :)

<tuffty/>
 
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605 bhp is very impressive and the car looks immaculate
 
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I'm no expert that it seemed like an awful lot of time stationary when the last run appeared to be more intense than the previous two "warm ups", I assumed they were trying to setup up the machine first. is Bill's dyno a 4WD? dont they behave slightly differently?
 
Bill's dyno is not AWD but the principles of dyno operation are essentially the same.... lack of cooling and inconsistent loading between cars being run being the main issues here..

On the road log you can see the accelerated run is a consistent rise in rpm where on this dyno run it forms a small hump as the engine out accelerates the dyno...

At the end of the day dyno lottery applies, I had the most power of the cars on the day and some intersting log data to look at... would have preferred the temps to be better managed but was an interesting day non the less

<tuffty/>
 
big lottery at play with their dyno......... totally inadequate car cooling fans...
insufficient load, inconsistent load between cars, makes this outfit more of a lottery than most i've seen.

good day out listening to different cars being ran tho...
 
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Fans seem to make a lot of noise and probably shifts a lot of air but it's a long way from the front of the car. Probably keeps the dyno cell cool. Maybe if the bonnet was opened it may have helped. That's a lot of torque and could prove very expensive if something lets go. Fortunately gearboxes are not that expensive but if spooling the turbo a little earlier produces higher peak torque values then that could be breaking things. Does the engine have a girdle ? . Still very impressive numbers.
 
desertstorm said:
Does the engine have a girdle ?
Click to expand...
Nope... caps and girdles are a pain to fit... gets expensive too if anything lets go as its all ground to the block..

I plan to reign it in a bit... its fast enough without the lump of torque at 5k...

<tuffty/>
 
desertstorm said:
Fans seem to make a lot of noise and probably shifts a lot of air but it's a long way from the front of the car. Probably keeps the dyno cell cool. Maybe if the bonnet was opened it may have helped. That's a lot of torque and could prove very expensive if something lets go. Fortunately gearboxes are not that expensive but if spooling the turbo a little earlier produces higher peak torque values then that could be breaking things. Does the engine have a girdle ? . Still very impressive numbers.
Click to expand...
there is little velocity and no pressure behind the front fan sadly... air will travel the easiest route, and thats not pushing past fmic and radiator into a closed engine bay thats for sure...... from 5 feet away..pointing at the near side headlamp!

they dont seem to have understood whats required when making their dyno cell. fan outlets not even central to the car but central to the room...
 
" lack of cooling and inconsistent loading between cars being run being the main issues here.."

what do you mean? that they are not consistent in "loading" the engine between cars to fairly compare figures?

are you going to become an addict? or a dyno hustler :D tenner's on the table biggest BHP takes all!

 
Soooo.... ran the car on Bill's dyno today... dyno days are a bit of fun but at the end of the day I take the results with a pinch of salt... you can only really compare to other cars on the day at best unless its a dyno you frequent of course...

I did a couple of runs on the current map where I have lifted the boost then flashed the previous map in to do a genuine comparison of the maps on the same hardware...

Previous to lifting the boost the run I did was while I had the non ported housing on so wanted to do a like where the only 'change' is the map...

So... the results below...

Orange plot is previous map and non ported housing

Blue plot is previous map on ported housing

Red plot is the tweaked map on the ported housing

Tuffty 20180929 graph


They are pretty consistent which is nice and it seems there is potentially a little extra lag from the ported housing which is fairly typical on a ported housing but in reality it makes no appreciable difference on the road

Tuffty 20180929 compound


There maybe something I can do in the spool area to get things going sooner but tbh I am not that bothered as the car drives fine

Thats not the end of my playing though as Ignitron are looking to release a firmware update in the coming months that will include some new features (cruise control being one) so plenty to keep me busy :)

<tuffty/>
 
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Recently acquired an app for my phone that can use an external GPS dongle for potentially doing 'timings'... no real idea why I did this of course as I don't really drive the car hard...
Screenshot 2018 10 01 at 141345


App is quite configurable (kmh/mph and checkpoints for testing etc) and supports several external GPS sensors as the in built phone sensor refresh rates are quite slow (1hz)... the sensor I went for was the 10hz VK-172 USB one Speed Logic list as compatible...

So took an impromptu trip to Mexico to try a 100-200kmh run as this seems to be a 'standard' for fast cars...

Results from the app were...
Screenshot 2018 10 01 at 142141


...of course I did logs as I can :)

Checking out the logs on that run...
100 200kmh start


100 200kmh end


...that calculates out to 6.68secs (roughly as I couldn't quite get the VSS to land on exactly 100 or 200)... seems to tally with the GPS which was promising

As a comparison I found a list of 100-200kmh timings done by other fast things... obviously this is the internet and who knows how valid these are...
https://www.6speedonline.com/forums...2-124-mph-times-various-cars-motorcycles.html

...either way the car feels pretty quick now... :)

<tuffty/>
 
audi upgrades
Stuart B said:
Why do you not carry on past 8K RPM? is it for mechanical sympathy or because the torque is starting to drop off?

Amazing your little 1.8 2002 hatchback has similar specs and performance to this (including the 100kmh-200kmh acceleration lambo = 6.6 seconds).

https://www.lamborghini.com/en-en/models/huracan/huracan-coupe
Click to expand...
Not sure what you are replying to... dyno or 100-200 run?

I have shift lights switched on so use those to help change gear... it all happens rather quickly so rather than bounce off the rev limiter and lose time I change before the soft cut...

Either way I increased the rev limit to see where the peak power was... its lower than 8k so I have now reduced it to maintain a degree of reliability..

Its a 2001 car btw ;)

<tuffty/>
 
Thats pretty rapid.... I think i'll be travelling to Mexico once I've got my car all done :tongueclosed:
 
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yeah I was referring to the dyno it looks like it was still travelling up at the end of the chart where-as most dyno outputs uploaded are dropping off at 6500rpm. by the way when I was looking at the rods and the free ARP2000 bolts there was an upgrade of different ARP bolts which were good for 9500rpm for £200 extra - do you have those fitted. I torqued mine twice to 55lb-ft - it's a scary prospect when I get to start it - whether it jus rattles and smashes itself to pieces :D :D
 
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