Brake pad help for track.

Use the ds 2500 pads, they work well with the heat and have less brake fade when your on the track, either that or yellow stuff just for the track and change when not on the track

with the lcr brembo setup?
 
Don't use DS2500's, they're crap. Ignore him he doesn't know what he's on about.

I've got a set of DS2500's you can have for postage, I was going to bin them. It's about all they are good for.
 
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Don't use DS2500's, they're ****. Ignore him he doesn't know what he's on about.

I've got a set of DS2500's you can have for postage, I was going to bin them. It's about all they are good for.

lol I suppose its all about how much you push the car and driving style.
the black diamond track ones were all the rage on a gtr site but yet I set them a light in a slower car wtf lol.
just aswell was going to the ring soon, not now with **** brakes.
 
hahaha
jardo is extremly passionate isnt he!!
like i say do it right do it once
not having brakes on a track day is tragic
i know damn well mine will stop me late as hell time after time
upto you if you want the same..
 
16klappe. Sounds like he talks a load of cr@* I've used these loads of times and I've never had a problem with them. Mind you I also use grooved and vented discs. If your not a professional track driver these will work the best,
 
16klappe. Sounds like he talks a load of cr@* I've used these loads of times and I've never had a problem with them. Mind you I also use grooved and vented discs. If your not a professional track driver these will work the best,

Might as well use wagon wheels for discs and custard creams for brake pads.

You guys need to try harder.
 
hahaha
jardo is extremly passionate isnt he!!
like i say do it right do it once
not having brakes on a track day is tragic
i know damn well mine will stop me late as hell time after time
upto you if you want the same..

well I hope its gonna be worth it im nearly £700 to do this on the cheap am in no major
rush anyway.
just cant believe the car has **** brakes as standard..
I come from the bike world decent fluid half decent pads at £60 and boom!
binned it leg broke.. ouch ya ba****d.... help!!
I don't have any knees now so I sacked the buggers lol.
 
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It's almost laughable that S3's were sent out with 312's isn't it?

So underpowered for these things. They over heat constantly, the pad selection now is getting dated.

Fine for road on a stage 1 car, but if you actually want to drive the car they've got to be the first thing to go :)
 
I'm with jardo on this im afraid chaps.

If the question had been for road use with VERY occasional track use (once a year) then perhaps I'd recommend the ds2500's....

Actually, that's a lie. I wouldn't.

The question was asked specifically for track use.

Ds3000 are so radically different to 2500's it's like driving a different car.

I personally wouldn't use 2500's I any brake setup, on any car, for any use.

I have come to this conclusion through direct experience.
 
16klappe. Sounds like he talks a load of cr@* I've used these loads of times and I've never had a problem with them. Mind you I also use grooved and vented discs. If your not a professional track driver these will work the best,

sorry dude but work the best????
not a chance
they arent made for track like the 3000 range
the s3 isnt a light car and trying to stop it continuously from high speed is so different from once or twice on the road.
its hard work!!
if your not killing the 2500
try harder!!
 
I have come to this conclusion through direct experience.

The experience of touching the pedal the first time and thinking "yep, got some bite." Gauging where you are going to brake next based upon that, then touching the pedal again to find biteless wooden brakes.

The reason you are wearing discs so much is your pad use.

Brake pads have two phases they go through, an abrasive stage which is where most road pads lay. This is the pad scrubbing against the disc and rubbing off speed. It generates excessive heat, dust and wear if repeated time and time again. Until eventually the pads get too hot, the fluid boils and you've ****** them.

Track pads work differently, they leave pad deposits bonded on the discs and when they get hot the pads try to almost bind or glue themselves to the discs, on a molecular level they change to a pad which does still rely on friction, but has the added benefit of trying to bond to the disc.

This is why you need a thorough cool down lap for the brakes and should never use the handbrake after a session, because the pads will try and bond themselves to the deposits on the discs.

The causes much less pad wear, much less discs scoring/wear and gives a much more aggressive and predictable brake. But it only happens in high temp ranges, ranges that pads like EBC Yellow and DS2500's don't perform at.
 
So let's say for talking sake..

We use on a standard setup
loads of cooling ducts
Rbf600
Ds3000 pads
Drilled and grooved discs
They're still gona be **** and overheat?

Lots of folk on this topic are specifying pads but not there setup?
Just an after thought.
 
me and jardo are both using ds3000 pads
im using grooved lcr discs
NOT DRILLED!!!
they crack!!!
and who said they will be ****????

jardo is saying the ds2500 arent for real track use!!!
an opinion shared by prawn and from my own research myself!
though i havent used them
if you go on an owners forum they love the ds2500
if you go on a track forum they dont get mentioned!!
what im saying is this
ds3000
rbf660
grooved discs
braided hoses
lcr calipers
and cooling!!!
this is a great track set up and unless your the stig or have mad power this will see you fine.
its your cash
your choice
but regardless to what some say if you go with the ds2500 and you happen to be hard on the brakes you will lose them!!
why do any track time without 100% confidence in your brakes???
its not fun!!!
 
So let's say for talking sake..

We use on a standard setup
loads of cooling ducts
Rbf600
Ds3000 pads
Drilled and grooved discs
They're still gona be **** and overheat?

Lots of folk on this topic are specifying pads but not there setup?
Just an after thought.

Yep, it would be all a waste if you kept the 312mm discs and sliding calipers.

You NEED 323mm discs and Brembos as a minimum for track use.
 
ahhhh sorry misunderstood what you were saying it seems!!
312mm set up is poo

how much track time are you doing???
not that this question will change my advice
more interested when
where how much etc
its not a cheap mod but it IS the most satisfying!!
poor suspension isnt great but can still be enjoyed!
same with power
but poor brakes can be tragic!
 
ahhhh sorry misunderstood what you were saying it seems!!
312mm set up is poo

how much track time are you doing???
not that this question will change my advice
more interested when
where how much etc
its not a cheap mod but it IS the most satisfying!!
poor suspension isnt great but can still be enjoyed!
same with power
but poor brakes can be tragic!

I thought you did lol

Pretty much building a track car, only need it road legal to get it to the track
I don't really use the car on street it's just a toy.

Plan to do more next year plus the ring, pretty much anytime it' goes out will be track time. my track day there was just a run out to see if if it would cope needs work etc.
In other aspects it done really well so it's a keeper! Lol
oh my local is knockhill.
 
Seeing this is such a Ferodo Fanboy site...has anyone used the Ferodo DSUNO pad?
 
I have used 312's with ds3000 in an s3 before. On Jardos car infact long before he owned it.

Phenomenal stopping power, thanks to the ds3000's, the limit is heat capacity though, the 312x 25 single piece discs simply can't cope with the heat build up.

Plenty plenty adequate for a road car. Still not really up to track work though.