What have you done to your Audi A4 B7 today?
- Thread starter Dani_B19
- Start date
i got mine (all 4 doors) for under 15 pounds, I used eBay. It was a Hong Kong based seller but with UK stock. I compared and compared and they weren't the cheapest but the faster option. And just like you experienced they are really good quality and very bright so bright that you can actually see them during the day too, unless the sun is out and the door is opened in a non shaded spot.
I got caught out fitting though....I didn't realise / think that these are actually left and right sided projectors, so 50/50 the first one I fitted projected the logo upside down...I'll know for the rears! I think I'll go S Line logo for the rears.
You should be able to move the projected image… the adjustment is on the inside of the fitting. Just twist the round bit around and it rotates the projection
Yeah you can just turn them around... that said I was debating to do the same but how often do you open the rear doors at the same time? So I kept it to the S-line logo on all 4 doors. Everyone knows it's an audi but imho it would be better if it had the 4 rings and the S-line logo projected at the same time... but I haven't found that combo yet. I also noticed they can be split and that projected screen film can be replaced. So yes I'm looking for a place that can make those little screen films so I can have a few different ones made up.
I bought the ones with just the rings ,I think mine are upside down 
I’ll get my coat
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I’ll get my coat
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LUK clutch kit appeared this morning, along with a new slave cylinder.
getting there parts-wise, now to address the flywheel situation.
getting there parts-wise, now to address the flywheel situation.
Oil, filter and sump plug today.
S Line 170 BRD.
When I bought the car 6 months ago on 55k miles, it had had new oil, filter and sump plug every 5k miles from new....without fail. Stamped in the book at Slough Audi and invoices to back it up.
At 55k it was due an oil change as the last one done at 50k. So I did one at 55k then 60k and today at 65k.
I know every 5k miles may be a bit overkill, but I can get the usual Quantum Longlife III 5W-30 oil and genuine bits from work....at a staff price woohoo.
The oil filter has now been superseded, new one fits fine, was 071 115 562A (straight filter pleats) now 071 115 562C (zig zag filter pleats and plastic at both ends)
Next is the passenger side engine mount...the guy at work sized up the job today, reckons not too bad a job. Genuine Audi mount coming...at a nice price (well still not cheap but....) 8E0 199 379 BF
The old one has shat all it's fluid out and the rubber has split. Drivers side one looks fine
Front snub mount....hmmm yeah not long for that, but at least I can do that myself easily on the driveway.
S Line 170 BRD.
When I bought the car 6 months ago on 55k miles, it had had new oil, filter and sump plug every 5k miles from new....without fail. Stamped in the book at Slough Audi and invoices to back it up.
At 55k it was due an oil change as the last one done at 50k. So I did one at 55k then 60k and today at 65k.
I know every 5k miles may be a bit overkill, but I can get the usual Quantum Longlife III 5W-30 oil and genuine bits from work....at a staff price woohoo.
The oil filter has now been superseded, new one fits fine, was 071 115 562A (straight filter pleats) now 071 115 562C (zig zag filter pleats and plastic at both ends)
Next is the passenger side engine mount...the guy at work sized up the job today, reckons not too bad a job. Genuine Audi mount coming...at a nice price (well still not cheap but....) 8E0 199 379 BF
The old one has shat all it's fluid out and the rubber has split. Drivers side one looks fine
Front snub mount....hmmm yeah not long for that, but at least I can do that myself easily on the driveway.
Mine has just passed its MOT, but still has a slight knock from the OS suspension.
Previously failed on track rod ends, ARB drop links and OS rear lower arm. Replaced all of those, and both rear lower arms.
Will change the lower forward arms ASAP, hope that's what the knock is.
Previously failed on track rod ends, ARB drop links and OS rear lower arm. Replaced all of those, and both rear lower arms.
Will change the lower forward arms ASAP, hope that's what the knock is.
yes I have to replace the front snub mount too... I thought mine was in good shape until i had another look at it yesterday.. One side is chewed up. From what i saw it's only one side that has been chewed on, and that side is out of sight, lovely as I missed it when buying the car.... even the MOT guy missed it but the bottom engine cover is on so hard to see if your not using an inspection mirror and specifically look at all sides of the snub mount. Anyway ordered it and will do it during or after the oil service.
I changed mine about 2 yrs ago, but will check again. My original wasn't in too bad a shape, but changed it anyway.
oem will do... I just noticed it has been chewed, not because of engine movement or age but clearly some rodent had gotten it's teeth in it... it's only in one corner in the bottom of it more to the NS when looking from above... and with me now knowing it's chewed it'll be replaced. As i said I wouldn't have seen it if i didn't use an inspection mirror to purposely look at it. when i bouht the car i noticed that the snub was kinda new whie looking down, so this must have happened at the sellers place. I use the car everyday he didn't and since he decided to sell it he didn't drive it for a while. Anyway i found it and oem will be used... those 150bhp won't do any extreme damage to it (they are only available in sport mode and i don't use that often at all) So should be fine unless the same happens to this one (which i doubt as i actually fixed the bottom engine compartment covers properly)Best plan is to buy the A6 bung as its a better fit and lasts longer.
As the weather is dry and the sun is out tomorrow i have wheeled the A4 out f the garage, taken the cover off, and gone out for a drive. I have missed it! It brings me much more joy than the more modern cars we have!
No problems driving today but one thing has made we wonder about how long fuel lasts until it goes off?
I filled up in mid November time and then she went into storage in the garage with a full tank to minimise condensation. i have managed to start her a few times and left her to idle on the drive to keep the battery charged up, but that's all the movement that the car has had. So fuel level has been pretty close to full for nearly 4 months.
I'm thinking I will top up what i can across the next few days to mix in some fresh with the older fuel.
What has prompted this is that the mower refuses to start. i did check spark etc and it turns out the fuel is cloudy. its probably a few months older than what's in the A4 and that fuel was in a jerry can for a while before going into the mowers tank. it was Texaco too as opposed to the Shell I put in the A4.
Anyway, not sure i had thought about fuel and cars in storage across winter but will do so now and perhaps look at a stabaliser before next winter.
For now its drive everyday with a professional wheel refurb on the cards for early April.
No problems driving today but one thing has made we wonder about how long fuel lasts until it goes off?
I filled up in mid November time and then she went into storage in the garage with a full tank to minimise condensation. i have managed to start her a few times and left her to idle on the drive to keep the battery charged up, but that's all the movement that the car has had. So fuel level has been pretty close to full for nearly 4 months.
I'm thinking I will top up what i can across the next few days to mix in some fresh with the older fuel.
What has prompted this is that the mower refuses to start. i did check spark etc and it turns out the fuel is cloudy. its probably a few months older than what's in the A4 and that fuel was in a jerry can for a while before going into the mowers tank. it was Texaco too as opposed to the Shell I put in the A4.
Anyway, not sure i had thought about fuel and cars in storage across winter but will do so now and perhaps look at a stabaliser before next winter.
For now its drive everyday with a professional wheel refurb on the cards for early April.
Picked up a new Navi Plus head unit since mine has a dead screen but of course no pin when I plugged it in. Will be getting back in contact with the seller as he said he may be able to dig out the handbook with the code in the front. Here's hoping.
On the flipside he's breaking an Black Edition on an '08 plate as his oil pump went and he got mugged off paying silly money to a garage who essentially took parts of the engine, charged him a fortune, then put said parts in a box and asked him to collect it. PM me if anyone needs anything such as the black roof rails etc,
On the flipside he's breaking an Black Edition on an '08 plate as his oil pump went and he got mugged off paying silly money to a garage who essentially took parts of the engine, charged him a fortune, then put said parts in a box and asked him to collect it. PM me if anyone needs anything such as the black roof rails etc,
There's a company down in Devon, if I recall, who can supply you with the code if you give them the serial number. I think it's only around 5 quid. I saw it recently, I'll try and dig it out. Here you go: https://www.dndservices.co.uk/. Hazy days supply new screens for these too, but they are pricey, as you can imagine. I think you can get them on Aliexpress for much less and it's not too difficult to fit yourself either.
There's quite a community getting mods on these. This open source firmware seems pretty good: https://rnse.pcbbc.co.uk/index.php. Then there are people getting Android Auto and Carplay working through VIM; even with a touch screen mod, but that gets pricey too. Part of me wants to go down that Rabbit hole, even though the Android HU I have is a world more advanced; just because OEM is cool (and works with the DIS too) and if I had a second modern car and some more dough, I think I would.
I was wrong it's 35 quid - still not too bad, if you need it: https://www.dndservices.co.uk/Audi-Navigation-Plus-RNS-E-8P0-035-192-H-code.
Thanks, With my obsession on being a tight git, I may simply swap the screens over if relatively straightforward.
I hear you. Actually the firmware link unlock the code for 5 quid but you have to use it with their firmware (basic free, with Features 15 quid). That software update seems well worth it. It upgrades Mark 1 units to accept 32GB SD cards and run the maps off there.
Why does it last longer? Is it because it's a better fit so doesn't chafe or rub as much?Best plan is to buy the A6 bung as its a better fit and lasts longer.
I'll have another look although I'm itching to do something to the car this weekend and have ordered a new in tank fuel pump but that won't be here until Monday and I have a tinkering itch that needs scratching.
The diy wrap on my dash trim was starting to de-bond on some of the tight corner returns so going to go with these for now that I picked up in an interior purchase recently
Maybe look at getting my brushed Ali ones carbon dipped ,although I did have a quote and it’s not much cheaper than oe ones
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Maybe look at getting my brushed Ali ones carbon dipped ,although I did have a quote and it’s not much cheaper than oe ones
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Genuine Audi passenger side engine mount fitted yesterday - 170ps BRD 56 plate.
Has made a massive difference when pulling away, everything just feels nicer, smoother, and more tied up if that makes sense.
My old mount had been leaking from it looked like where the sensor attaches to the mount.
What does that sensor actually sense? I didn't have any P codes and most or all of the fluid in it must have leaked out. Just unsure what the sensor does or activates (if anything?)
Has made a massive difference when pulling away, everything just feels nicer, smoother, and more tied up if that makes sense.
My old mount had been leaking from it looked like where the sensor attaches to the mount.
What does that sensor actually sense? I didn't have any P codes and most or all of the fluid in it must have leaked out. Just unsure what the sensor does or activates (if anything?)
It's meant to hydraulically adjust according to the sensor. The sensor is only on the left one; the right one is passive; I believe it senses 'load'. There is no 'pump' I believe so I am not actually sure how it works either. Mine are still intact, slightly cracked externally, though not leaking. During lockdown I restored an old reel to reel 1/4" tape recorder and came across an amazing product called 'Rubber Renue' I think. It totally re-juvenates old rubber (in that case the idler wheel); so I used it on the mounts while I had the car on the lift, at my brother's garage, last summer. Made 'em look quite good; time will tell. I've also used that product on all the door seals too.
Just realized i didnt have new o-rings for the camchain / tensioner/adjuster project.
I ordered some form hear.
hopefully, decent quality ones as once done its not coming off again anytime soon.
I ordered some form hear.
hopefully, decent quality ones as once done its not coming off again anytime soon.
had this weird thing happen to me this morning... someone tried to steal either the car or the something out of the car they didn't manage to so it though... but my key had lost sync, battery flat doorlock gone! but the outer doorlock shell (the bit with the metal keyslot was laying under the car) I popped it back in after i figured out how to open the door and jumpstart the car.
The hunt for someone breaking an B7 near me is on so i can get both the door and ignition barrel with keys... that way i can swap the lot.
I was lucky it didn't work and i only have to deal with replacing the locks.
The hunt for someone breaking an B7 near me is on so i can get both the door and ignition barrel with keys... that way i can swap the lot.
I was lucky it didn't work and i only have to deal with replacing the locks.
well i was lucky enough to find the needed door and ignition barrel with a key, but instead of already swapping the ignition i sorted out the doorbarrel first. now that that is done I can lock the door with the new key and use the oem key to start the car... I'll change the ignition over summertime as I took the whole top of the steeringcolumn instead of just the ignition part.... it's a bit more work but way easier than dealing with trying to remove the old ignition part, than putting the replacement on... Yeah the bolts they used aren't made to be re-used (probably to slowdown or stop the long fingered brigade in their quest of taking stuff that isn't theirs)
Thieving scum bar stewards,. Although technically speaking since nothing was taken I can't call them thieving, since I don't know if they can float or stick to the side I probably can't call them scum and I can't say I know of their parentage either sooo maybe 'persons unknown' in the politcally correct world we now live in.
Just as well you didn't catch them at it as they may injured themselves whilst making good their escape and then have you charged for infringing their human rights and causing them to not only hurt themselves but the mental distress of it all. They'd then probably claim of your car insurance and then you home insurance for good measure and I bet you wouldn't have completed the necessary risk assessment and health & safety paperwork.... Makes me so annoyed as even though nothing taken the time, money and effort to repair and replace at your cost as no point trying to make a claim.
You cracked me up! But yeah the costs of having it done by on the insurance.... well yeah no, I got it sorted at less than 1/3rd of that. Will have to do a coding session when I swap the ignition barrel over... but I got vcds so I can do what is needed.
Ps a new door barrel from the dealer costs almost 350 pounds but would be made for my original key... honestly not even sure if that didn't happen before and the changes the lot how i will in the end so wasn't going to go that way.
Also I would have to go to the police first, get a crime number, than claim on the insurance, wait for them to give the go ahead or get to hear it's an economical write off.
Yeah no it's sorted.
Just getting organized this afternoon to do the top-end work, then what do I see, a small friend has taken up residency again, at least not in the pollen filter housing this time.
Little sods ..lol
Little sods ..lol
Nothing worse than finding a nest inside the car/enginebay... but if you are on it quick enough you'll be able to get them out before they decide to start finding their way into the interior.
found him a bit later on lurking next to the battery, not a rat, just a small field mouse looking for a safe place to live.
I operate a live and let live policy with field mice so relocated him, but rats , nope i have zero tolerance with them.
I operate a live and let live policy with field mice so relocated him, but rats , nope i have zero tolerance with them.
A new day and I'm about to address this camshaft adjuster and associated parts removal, not expecting any dramas until the removal of that camshaft adjuster bolt.
Hopefully, it will co-operate and come out issue-free, but it's an Audi so that is probably expecting way too much or an easy fix.
might need an extra cuppa this morning just to get in the zone..lol
Hopefully, it will co-operate and come out issue-free, but it's an Audi so that is probably expecting way too much or an easy fix.
might need an extra cuppa this morning just to get in the zone..lol
I had also forgotten what a pain it is to remove the vacuum pump, clearly Mr Audi didn't that into consideration when fitting the EA113 engine longitudinally into the B7 platform.
He was brave...right next to the cat on you battery haha
A bit further on by the end of this afternoon.
managed to get the cam adjuster bolt out in a oner, took the extra precautions of using a snug piece of packing wood between the head of the wrench and the bulkhead to ensure the splined bit stayed put and straight in the head when using some somewhat excessive force to loosen it , which paid dividend as the plan worked a treat.
So off with the old bits, a bit of a struggle getting the new kit on but with patience and several cuppas all went back on.
The cam adjuster cover was refitted with new oil control rings, glad i bought 3 new ones as the old one just fell off.
tomorrow is just refit the cam cover, fuel pump with a new follower, refit the vacuum pump and just small bits .
Then onto the oil pump freewheel task.
managed to get the cam adjuster bolt out in a oner, took the extra precautions of using a snug piece of packing wood between the head of the wrench and the bulkhead to ensure the splined bit stayed put and straight in the head when using some somewhat excessive force to loosen it , which paid dividend as the plan worked a treat.
So off with the old bits, a bit of a struggle getting the new kit on but with patience and several cuppas all went back on.
The cam adjuster cover was refitted with new oil control rings, glad i bought 3 new ones as the old one just fell off.
tomorrow is just refit the cam cover, fuel pump with a new follower, refit the vacuum pump and just small bits .
Then onto the oil pump freewheel task.
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Nice new bits fitted which should do the old bus for another 120k ish miles.
