A couple of things about 1.8t engine building

[Djordje1]

Sorry @<tuffty/> for a lot of questions, but I really want this project to make best as possible.

in some of the ealry post related for FPR(4bar) that I wanted to use you said "As you are only using a G25-550 I can't see why you would max out 1000cc injectors... I would start off with a 3bar FPR as this will give you better low pulsewidth performance on the injectors"

I'm planning to buy https://www.bosch-motorsport-shop.com.au/980cc-min-ev14-injector 0 280 158 040 They are 980cc I don't need to go above 1000cc this is enough?

Cheers,
Djordje

 

[Djordje1]

Hey @S3AMJ
I hope you're doing well. I can see you end up with 82mm TB I'm planning to buy IE intake manifold 80mm options. Did you have any trouble with this bosch 82m TB any specific limitation or something else? How did you mount this on the end?

Thank you so much,
Djordje

 

[Rainbird]

Sorry @<tuffty/> for a lot of questions, but I really want this project to make best as possible.

in some of the ealry post related for FPR(4bar) that I wanted to use you said "As you are only using a G25-550 I can't see why you would max out 1000cc injectors... I would start off with a 3bar FPR as this will give you better low pulsewidth performance on the injectors"

I'm planning to buy https://www.bosch-motorsport-shop.com.au/980cc-min-ev14-injector 0 280 158 040 They are 980cc I don't need to go above 1000cc this is enough?

Cheers,
Djordje

Those injectors should be absolutely fine, assuming pump fuel and not E85 or something. Worst case, you can drop in a higher pressure FPR but I don't expect you'll need it. Lots of people running those injectors with a G25 (myself included, though I'm yet to map the top end so can't give any indication of power/duty cycle for reference unfortunately)

 

[S3AMJ]

Hey @S3AMJ
I hope you're doing well. I can see you end up with 82mm TB I'm planning to buy IE intake manifold 80mm options. Did you have any trouble with this bosch 82m TB any specific limitation or something else? How did you mount this on the end?

Thank you so much,
Djordje

Hi buddy, yeah good thank you. You all good? I did indeed go for the 82mm Bosch TB. Main reason behind going for this TB is because of its price £92 delivered when I bought it. Admittedly there are other things you need in order to get it to adapt. Total cost still was less than the cost of an 80mm Hemi.

When running water/meth eventually it makes its way into the TB’s housing and kills it to death. This makes it a very cheap and potentially “better” alternative. I’m yet to see all its benefits as my car is still being built.

It was mounted using a custom aluminium adaptor to go on my “Tuffty” custom inlet manifold. Then an SRD adaptor on the TB to allow a boost pipe to be mounted. You will also need a couple of plugs to make an wiring adaptor.

Hope that makes some sense….. just bare in mind my opening on my inlet manifold is 90mm thus easily allowing the 82mm TB to open, I know with an adaptor that shouldn’t be so much of a problem in your case, I’ll just need to port match both sides, one side being 80mm and the other being greater than 82mm.


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[Djordje1]

Thank you so much @Rainbird it's good to know that's my list is quite well made. Glad that is fine. Thank you once again for your time.Can't wait to start building

@S3AMJ
Thanks, man a lot, I'm really trying to save some money where is possible, but sometimes is a bit easier and to make simpler. Looks like I found a plug and play variant... https://www.bar-tek-tuning.com/18t-and-s4-27t-upgrade-throttle-80mm
I wanted to buy a new OE TB bosch just,because I'm building the whole engine and I already had some issue with the old one, but the price is something around 300, this sounds like a good deal. Maybe 70mm works as well just to make my life easier without too much complication. Trying to find the golden middle. Just to avoid any waste of time.

I have to think, but 80mm HEMI looks fine to me That sounds like a good deal! I'm not rushing anywhere and want to make this build very nice and reliable.

btw @Rainbird
did you upgrade your front wishbones, axle?
My car is 2000(almost 22yeras) and when I finish the build that will be much more power than factory-prepared parts to handle from 150 to 450BHP...That is a lot. I'm wondering how can I make the car stronger, stiffer, and let's say safer Do I need just new OE parts or buy some lightweight custom parts and which one>?

I did some upgrades this summer but I'm not sure that is enough to handle this amount of power. What do you think guys?
Cheers

btw(all go with ap racing cp9200 and bigger calipers and ap racing disc rear as well...)

 

[Rainbird]

Thank you so much @Rainbird it's good to know that's my list is quite well made. Glad that is fine. Thank you once again for your time.Can't wait to start building


btw @Rainbird
did you upgrade your front wishbones, axle?
My car is 2000(almost 22yeras) and when I finish the build that will be much more power than factory-prepared parts to handle from 150 to 450BHP...That is a lot. I'm wondering how can I make the car stronger, stiffer, and let's say safer Do I need just new OE parts or buy some lightweight custom parts and which one>?

I did some upgrades this summer but I'm not sure that is enough to handle this amount of power. What do you think guys?
Cheers

btw(all go with ap racing cp9200 and bigger calipers and ap racing disc rear as well...)

Look forward to seeing it.

I didn't change too much as I've been running Leon Cupra Rs for the past 8 or so years, and recently switched to a TT (road use, so I'm hoping Faux-wheel-drive will help with traction) which both have the "upgraded" cast wishbones and better geometry on the hubs. I've got adjustable top mounts, and if I need more will throw on some modified mk2 TT ball joints to give a little more caster and camber.
There are tubular setups available, but don't all seem to offer great value for money. Could always knock up something similar if you needed even more than the factory parts and minor tweaks allow.

The setup you've got there looks pretty decent (and very clean!) so I'd start with what you have and if you find yourself having any issues or wanting more, upgrade as it becomes apparent.

The AP kit is truly epic in terms of stopping power. The only reason I've not gone down the same route (at least not yet) is road use again. Performance is right up there, I'm just not sure how well they'd last on salty British wintery roads and don't have as much time (nor willpower) as it'd take to keep on top of maintenance on them. Lack of dust boots, anodised finish etc aren't really geared up for it. If you can pull the wheels off to clean regularly, or the car won't see so much road use through poor conditions, you'd fair better.

 

[Djordje1]

@Rainbird
Thank you so much for your reply!
That is the think that worries me the most.Most of the thing on the car will be better and stronger,but these parts of the suspension will stay as it is.

As you mentioned,tubular parts looks good,but I'm also wondering how they are good for the money I'm paying for.I have to chack can I find casted fishbone. I'm wondering where is the limit and can I test all the power I'm planing to have on these setup...


Btw currently I have eibach springs and B6 Bilstein suspension ,but even that over 160kmh on the road I'm filling a bit of smooth jumping during the higher speed.Im not sure how to explain...I need something stuffer.Im planing to go a bit wider with tires as well
for the summer tires I have
235 18 40 for the front
and 255 18 40 for the rear


btw related to the calipers.I got this message from the Johny from BGDevelopments who is distributer for APracing brakes...they says that cp9200 have secondary dirt seal in the pistons comparing with pro5000r they don't have it...Here is the message

"
It would be an extra £120 + VAT to go with the CP9440 Pro5000R calipers- they can be used on the road but they don’t have the secondary dirt seal in the pistons so they are more susceptible to getting grit & salt etc in the piston bore and scoring the pistons. If they are used on the road they o to be cleaned regularly- especially in winter.

Just red or black on the CP9200 calipers."

Maybe you can consider cp9200 calipers
Thank you once again,
Djordje

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[Djordje1]

Guys, what do you think about where I can buy a short shifter?

My initial plan was to go with a sequential Quaife gearbox then I realized that is currently over my budget and I wanted DSG, but this is probably not very interesting to drive as a manual gearbox and I decided to go with a VW 6speed 2.0 TDI gearbox 02M with Wavetrac LSD differential.
Do you have any other recommendations or advice related to gearbox?

Thank you, everyone,
Djordje

 

[S3AMJ]

Guys, what do you think about where I can buy a short shifter?

My initial plan was to go with a sequential Quaife gearbox then I realized that is currently over my budget and I wanted DSG, but this is probably not very interesting to drive as a manual gearbox and I decided to go with a VW 6speed 2.0 TDI gearbox 02M with Wavetrac LSD differential.
Do you have any other recommendations or advice related to gearbox?

Thank you, everyone,
Djordje

I think DSG has a time and a place. If you did think to go DSG then the DQ500 box from an RS3 or similar is what you’d be looking for. That said with the prices of everything you’d need you’d be heading towards the same sort of price as a sequential box!!

If you are keeping it manual, then you’ll want to have a chat with Martin from Gas&Gears. He built my gearbox up for me.

I used a 02M FEK diesel 6 speed gearbox, there are others available but you’ll need to double check there ratios. He then stopped it down, replaced everything, fitted a 3-6 monster performance gearset in it along with a billet input shaft and 4th gear support. Oh and he also changed the shift forks to steel ones.

My car is being built by Badger5 currently, shouldn’t be long now and I’ll be able to tell you how good the box and ratios are.

The box should be good for 1000bhp and all of the torques…….

I’ve covered quite a bit of info in my build thread including theoretical speeds in each gear and so on. Click the link in my signature.


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[S3AMJ]

Oh and in terms of short shifter, I’ve got a CAE Ultra Shifter fitted to mine, there is a cheaper one available called Coolerworx which is pretty good, uses all the original cables, etc. what sets the CAE Ultra Shifter apart is it has upgraded shifter cables, brackets, gearbox fittings which lets you have masses amounts of adjustability.


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[Djordje1]

Oh and in terms of short shifter, I’ve got a CAE Ultra Shifter fitted to mine, there is a cheaper one available called Coolerworx which is pretty good, uses all the original cables, etc. what sets the CAE Ultra Shifter apart is it has upgraded shifter cables, brackets, gearbox fittings which lets you have masses amounts of adjustability.


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Thank you so much @S3AMJ thank you once again for amazing explanation.
That's definitely I'm going with.Manuel 6speed 02m box,but I'm wondering now do I need upgrade of gear set or they can held 450bhp...In a case I have to buy,do you know where can order one gear set?


CAE is amazing, honestly if I really need I'll go with it,but I more thought to keep the factory knob and buy something like this...

Sigma 6 Six Speed Short Shift Kit

Click here for Install Instructions In pursuit of perfection: There is nothing as important to the feel of your car as what you actually touch. This includes the seats, the steering wheel, and of course, the shifter. Many people have mentioned that installing a Dieselgeek Sigma Shifter should...

dieselgeek.com

but there is no any in UK or EU...I'll probably have to order one from US...

btw can anyone check my question from post #80 related to intercooler

I have to order some intake silicone hoses for g25-550 and I checked creationsmotorsport.com but there is a lot of different hoses with and without different holes...

Which one I actually need it.Ill have mafless setup BTW.

Thank you everyone!!! Cheers

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[Djordje1]

btw yesterday I received turbo blanket and 15meters of titanium wrap all that for 150gbp is not bad at all.Black friday offer was good

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[S3AMJ]

If your goal is 450bhp which would probably be anything between 350-390ft/lbs then you may get away without running a gearset. But I’d advise on getting the 4th gear support, input shaft and steel forks as a minimum. The reason why higher powered cars strip 4th gear is because the load forces the input shaft away causing the gearset to be on the very edge of the teeth where there is very little engagement. Changing the gearset is for piece of mind, oh and because it’s “semi-dogbox” you get that classic whine from the gears, although it’s not as obnoxious as a full straight cut gearbox.

Gearsets can be purchased from pro-race engineering, but honestly….. I’d advice giving Martin a call from Gas&Gears. He knows his gearboxes and you tell him what your goals are and he will give you options on what’s best.

I’ve seen those short shift cable adjustable things before, bare in mind these cars are old and things are worn out or wearing out, putting some bling on the end of cables won’t necessarily give you what you want, that said it will probably take some slop out of the shifter making it feel more positive.

The other benefits to the Coolerworx and CAE Ultra Shifter is they both have reverse gear lock out and a strong spring that makes the gear shifter naturally go into the neutral position. This helps prevent miss shifting into the wrong gear associated with short shifters, because after all your closing that window dramatically between gears. No one wants a money shift……..

With regards to intercooler, don’t mess around with anything but a Toyo Type B intercooler, otherwise know as the “Wellycooler” it’s universal so don’t expect it to just bolt up, you’ll need to get all your pipework in 63mm. Depending on whether you want to keep you fog lights or not will mean you’ll need to get some tight bends welded on your end tanks. If you don’t care for your fog lights then just send it with big old silicone elbows.

BOV will depend on a few things, will you be running water/meth? If you are then are you going to be recirculating back into your turbo intake pipe? If your not then your BOV will need to be positioned on the hot side “pre intercooler” otherwise you’ll end up venting water/meth into your hot engine bay! Not a bad way to start a fire. You also mentioned MAFless, so I’m assuming your planning on going standalone ECU. One word……. IGNITRON. if this is the case then you’ll want to plumb your MAP sensor into your inlet manifold.


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[Djordje1]

If your goal is 450bhp which would probably be anything between 350-390ft/lbs then you may get away without running a gearset. But I’d advise on getting the 4th gear support, input shaft and steel forks as a minimum. The reason why higher powered cars strip 4th gear is because the load forces the input shaft away causing the gearset to be on the very edge of the teeth where there is very little engagement. Changing the gearset is for piece of mind, oh and because it’s “semi-dogbox” you get that classic whine from the gears, although it’s not as obnoxious as a full straight cut gearbox.

Gearsets can be purchased from pro-race engineering, but honestly….. I’d advice giving Martin a call from Gas&Gears. He knows his gearboxes and you tell him what your goals are and he will give you options on what’s best.

I’ve seen those short shift cable adjustable things before, bare in mind these cars are old and things are worn out or wearing out, putting some bling on the end of cables won’t necessarily give you what you want, that said it will probably take some slop out of the shifter making it feel more positive.

The other benefits to the Coolerworx and CAE Ultra Shifter is they both have reverse gear lock out and a strong spring that makes the gear shifter naturally go into the neutral position. This helps prevent miss shifting into the wrong gear associated with short shifters, because after all your closing that window dramatically between gears. No one wants a money shift……..

With regards to intercooler, don’t mess around with anything but a Toyo Type B intercooler, otherwise know as the “Wellycooler” it’s universal so don’t expect it to just bolt up, you’ll need to get all your pipework in 63mm. Depending on whether you want to keep you fog lights or not will mean you’ll need to get some tight bends welded on your end tanks. If you don’t care for your fog lights then just send it with big old silicone elbows.

BOV will depend on a few things, will you be running water/meth? If you are then are you going to be recirculating back into your turbo intake pipe? If your not then your BOV will need to be positioned on the hot side “pre intercooler” otherwise you’ll end up venting water/meth into your hot engine bay! Not a bad way to start a fire. You also mentioned MAFless, so I’m assuming your planning on going standalone ECU. One word……. IGNITRON. if this is the case then you’ll want to plumb your MAP sensor into your inlet manifold.


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@S3AMJ
Oh man my list going wild ))
Can you please share some contact from the gas&gears and I'll contact Martin. I'm not from uk and now because of Brexit and everything it's tricky to get some stuff from UK, but is not imposable. I'm buying stuff from UK, but not all of them. But let's see what I can do with Martin.

I'll go with Coolerworx, looks nice for my application.
For the intercooler I'm going with this one. The question I had related for intercooler is more how may holes I need for the intercooler cold side and for what?
@<tuffty/> suggest this one as well and I follow what he suggested.

About intake pipe I wanted to ask is kind the same which one I need for g25-550? Do I need flat one or one with holes?

I'm not planning to use water/meth and idea is to put BOV near the body throttle like this. Btw do I need those two holes on the beginning intercooler line?

I can share my refined list of the components I'm planning to use for my build. Btw I'll go with ECU MASTER

Ultimate Road Spec Camshaft AUD20TBP285B

1.8t Supertech Full Valvetrain Kit

IE 1.8T Transverse Intake Manifold

Genuine Coilpack Adapters, 1.8t 20v , TFSI coilpacks (x 4)

1.8T 20V stud cylinder head ARP 10mm

1.8T 20V Arp 06A main stud kit 10mm

Luk dual mass flywheel

LuK BR 0222

1000cc Bosch

Audi R8 Genuine Red Top Coilpacks NGK

Bosch waterPump

IAT Sensor

Bosch 3-Bar Fuel Pressure Regulator

ELRING Seal Kit, valve stem

ECU Master black

ECU Master EMU Plug & Play Adaptors

CSF RACE RADIATOR FOR 99-06 VW GOLF/GTI, 99-06 VW JETTA/GL

garrett g25-550

VAG ARP HEAVY DUTY screw for flywheel

fuel pump

fuel pump wires

1.8T & S4 2.7T Hemi Upgrade throttle body 80mm

erlin headgasket

Upgrade TURBO piston pins BAR-TEK®

1.8T Adjustable Cam gear BAR-TEK®

1.8T Oilcooler-Kit BAR-TEK®

2.0 TFSI EA113 Diamond crank pulley washer

1.8T harmonic Crank Pulley Fluidampr

INA valve tappets 12

INA valve tappets 8

FMIC FFRONT MOUNT TURBO INTERCOOLER TYPE B 600x300x76MM BLACK 2.5" UNIVERSAL TURBO INTERCOOLER PIPE PIPING DIY KIT 64MM

COOLERWORX SHORT SHIFTER PRO VW / AUDI / SKODA / SEAT (02J / 02M / 02Q) BOTTOM MOUNT

02M 6Speed

WAVETRAC DIFFERENTIAL FOR 02M 6MT 2WD

Funk Motors turbo blanket wap 15m

Sachs Release Bearing Sachs 4 Puk Clutch

1.8T Race timing belt high performance KIT

1.8T 20V Forged Piston & Steel Con-Rod Set by JE 82mm & BAR-TEK®

Nortech Performance 1.8t Stainless Steel Tubular Exhaust Manifold V-BAND 1.8t 20v

btw I start wrapping yesterday. Looks good so far...

Cheers,
Djordje

 

[Djordje1]

anyone?

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[S3AMJ]

You won’t need the holes in your intercooler pipework as your BOV is going to be relocated on the cold side and you venting to atmosphere so you won’t need to recirculate it back. If your going to be recirculating your oil catch can then yes you’ll need a return in your turbo intake pipe, other wise no….. your turbo intake pipe can be completely free of additional holes etc.


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[Djordje1]

You won’t need the holes in your intercooler pipework as your BOV is going to be relocated on the cold side and you venting to atmosphere so you won’t need to recirculate it back. If your going to be recirculating your oil catch can then yes you’ll need a return in your turbo intake pipe, other wise no….. your turbo intake pipe can be completely free of additional holes etc.


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@S3AMJ Thank you for your reply, what is the usual way to go with it? I'll use n75 or mac solenoid but for Waste Gate. For the BOV do I need the same situation or is better to throw it away and keep the intake pipe just with one hole for the oil catch can?

Thank you so much,
Djordje

 

[Djordje1]

@badger5
hey guys, I wanted to ask some questions about the beetle 1.8t you worked on . I dont want to spam on Facebook, I think this is the easiest way...


As I want to plan everything before I start to build I did 3d scan of my car, just to check some stuff and do some rough calculations of what I actually need to do.
Here is the scan of my car.

But I have the details and under the bumper and bonnet

I can literally do calculations on what I need and how much material...Here is the example of the intercooler fitting and pipework

I'm wondering where did you move the power steering fluid reservoir tank? I need more space for the pipes...As you suggest today I'll use the odyssey battery as well!

and the main question actually is what did you do with power steering lines on the bottom right... Looks like that you move that somewhere inside.

You also mentioned that you mount an oil cooler above the intercooler, I'm wondering where exactly because looks like that there is not enough space. Can you please recommend which oil cooler you use? If I'm wrong with my guessing position please overdraw quickly where should be.

Because of intercooler pipes, I'll remove fog lights. I'm planning to create a cold intake tunnel from the bumper mesh to the air filter. If I successfully create this I'll definitely share some files and you can use it as well to print or whatever...

If anyone else can help with any of these questions, please do not hesitate.
Thank you so much,
Djordje

 

[Djordje1]

Hi there, is there anyone else who can give some advice based on previous experience working on a similar thing I need to do?

Thank you so much,
Djordje

 

[S3AMJ]

@S3AMJ Thank you for your reply, what is the usual way to go with it? I'll use n75 or mac solenoid but for Waste Gate. For the BOV do I need the same situation or is better to throw it away and keep the intake pipe just with one hole for the oil catch can?

Thank you so much,
Djordje

MAC Valve has more control on the bigger turbo stuff. N75 has its limitations. I’m not running a BOV on my build, that’s up to you. Garrett G series turbos already have anti surge comp housings, running a BOV is more for older gen stuff. I’m also not running my oil catch can back into the engine as it has a slight impact on reducing octane….. I’m obviously trying to squeeze every bhp out of my G30-770 turbo though, not save the environment.


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[Djordje1]

MAC Valve has more control on the bigger turbo stuff. N75 has its limitations. I’m not running a BOV on my build, that’s up to you. Garrett G series turbos already have anti surge comp housings, running a BOV is more for older gen stuff. I’m also not running my oil catch can back into the engine as it has a slight impact on reducing octane….. I’m obviously trying to squeeze every bhp out of my G30-770 turbo though, not save the environment.


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@S3AMJ thank you very much for your time and interesting thoughts. Can you please let me know more about how you control pressure in the intake system? I can see that are not many people interested in catch can...This is more like a trend. I'm like 50/50 now what to do with. Should I go with or without ...Not really sure

 

[S3AMJ]

@S3AMJ thank you very much for your time and interesting thoughts. Can you please let me know more about how you control pressure in the intake system? I can see that are not many people interested in catch can...This is more like a trend. I'm like 50/50 now what to do with. Should I go with or without ...Not really sure

Not entirely sure I understand your question there bud. What do you mean how you control your pressure in the intake system? You referring to the use of a MAC Valve, MAP Sensor, Etc?

Most people I know run an oil catch can, admittedly the majority recirculate it back into there cars to burn off via the turbo intake pipe. I vent to atmosphere.

You have to have something in place, you wouldn’t be able to run the engine without some form of breather.


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[hydro s3]

I vent my catch can to atmosphere and have done for at least 3 years now with no bother

 

[Djordje1]

I vent my catch can to atmosphere and have done for at least 3 years now with no bother

Thank you so much @hydro s3 I'll do the same. I'll make my own one depending on the space I have after fitting all the intercooler pipe and battery.

 

[Djordje1]

Hey everyone I hope you're doing well!!!
let's talk about fuel.

As I'm changing my manifold intake to IE large port I'll fit an 80mm throttle body I would like to make a nice and clean build of the fuel rail fuel pressure regulator. As @<tuffty/> suggests I'll go with FPR 3bar max. I'm wondering to upgrade fuel rail and FPR housing as well...

The plan is also to change the fuel lines and do some AN6 fitting lines as people suggest...
What about fuel filters? I read that people mostly use two of them in the setup 100microns and 10microns(which filter brand you're recommending?)Can you suggest the order and positions of the filters? They definitely do some restrictions to the flow and that's the reason why I'm planning to go with AN6 also lenght from the in-tank fuel pump and injectors is quite long.
I found bartek FWD in-tank pump 330LPH at flow rate 3bar and they say that is enough for up to 600HP which is way more than I need. My goal is 450WHP...

1.8T 20V VW & Audi Upgrade Fuel Pump 600 HP BAR-TEK®

Plug & Play, delivery capacity up to 330 litres at 3 bar per hour. ✔ 15 years of motorsport experience ✔ fast shipping ✔ BAR-TEK® proved ➔ buy now

www.bar-tek-tuning.com

However @<tuffty/> do you think that is better to stick on just on this one, or as you suggest in the early post to keep OEM in-tank and just go with bosh44?

I'm not planning to use a surge tank...

@S3AMJ did you use just the AEM400 fuel pump? Did you upgrade the wiring and 30 amp switching relay 5 poles and 30 Amp fuse asking because for this bartek pump they says!

?

I can see that IE has nice FPR housing and Fuel rail. Do you have any other brand you can recommend?
Thank you everyone!Cheers

 

[S3AMJ]

Yeah used an AEM 400 inline fuel pump and have a DW65 in tank as well, although the DW65 isn’t doing half as much work as it used to on my hybrid build now with the additional inline pump. I’m not sure if the wiring has changed for the AEM pump if I’m honest.

TurboSmart is a great brand, my fuel reg and wastegate are TurboSmart

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[Djordje1]

Yeah used an AEM 400 inline fuel pump and have a DW65 in tank as well, although the DW65 isn’t doing half as much work as it used to on my hybrid build now with the additional inline pump. I’m not sure if the wiring has changed for the AEM pump if I’m honest.

TurboSmart is a great brand, my fuel reg and wastegate are TurboSmart

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Thank you so much @S3AMJ yes, there is a couple of ways to go... I think I'll go with FPR housing and fuel rail, I'm not sure that I need a fuel regulator.

Can anyone else help with these questions #105? thank you so much.

I wanted to ask couple more questions about the OEM parts I need for my build.

• Water pump? Do I need an OEM one (VW original) or I can go with Bosch for example? Also which one is recommended?Plastic or metal impeller?
• Oil pump? Do I need an OEM one (VW original) or any other brand? Maybe a stronger one from the s3?
• Timing Chain Tensioner 1.8t Do I need an OEM one (VW original) or any other brand?

Please if you remember anything else, please don't hesitate

Thank you, everyone,
Djordje

 

[<tuffty/>]

Water pump... personally I would only use OE... which is plastic impeller... metal impeller pumps are not all that and all I have seen tend to leak through the shaft after very little mileage

Oil pump.... again, OE only IMO.... I have seen issues with both pattern and 'branded' pumps in the past

Tensioner... this one is very hit and miss in the pattern part world... I bought a generic VVT tensioner from GSF (VAG parts specialist) for my engine and it was absolutely fine... but... and it s a big but!!!... have used GSF supplied tensioners since in customer cars and some have been fine, others have failed... basically GSF don't really care where they get the part from so its a lottery as to what you get... this seems to be the same of any part supplier other than OE...

If you can get a solid warranty on the part then it may work out for you... if you want total peace of mind go OE... however they are not a cheap part OE (here in the UK at least)

<tuffty/>

 

[Djordje1]

Water pump... personally I would only use OE... which is plastic impeller... metal impeller pumps are not all that and all I have seen tend to leak through the shaft after very little mileage

Oil pump.... again, OE only IMO.... I have seen issues with both pattern and 'branded' pumps in the past

Tensioner... this one is very hit and miss in the pattern part world... I bought a generic VVT tensioner from GSF (VAG parts specialist) for my engine and it was absolutely fine... but... and it s a big but!!!... have used GSF supplied tensioners since in customer cars and some have been fine, others have failed... basically GSF don't really care where they get the part from so its a lottery as to what you get... this seems to be the same of any part supplier other than OE...

If you can get a solid warranty on the part then it may work out for you... if you want total peace of mind go OE... however they are not a cheap part OE (here in the UK at least)

<tuffty/>

Thank you @<tuffty/> for your time I really appreciate. This is very helpful.
Btw. what do you think about my questions #105 about two different fuel filter? Also is there any list of the parts for AN thread system conversion. Fuel,water,oil lines...There is a lot of different things and its tricky for me to buy right sizes and right number of AN fitting threads. Its too expensive to buy couple of them from each size and pray that will be enough.
Do you know any brand of AN threads or web site where I can get them>>??
@Rainbird what do you think about fuel filters #105 and how did you setup your fuel in-tank and inline pump?

Cheers,
Djordje

 

[Djordje1]

@desertstorm
I would like to here your thoughts about my question #105

Did you endup with dw65 in-tank and Bosch 044 inline? Did you change the wires?
Thank you,
Djordje

 

[desertstorm]

@desertstorm
I would like to here your thoughts about my question #105

Did you endup with dw65 in-tank and Bosch 044 inline? Did you change the wires?
Thank you,
Djordje

I am using a DW65 in the tank and an in line 044.Regardless of what sellers say about the in tank pumps I don't think there is one around that will run a 500bhp engine reliably over a period of a few years. They may manage for 6 months or a year but the punmp is physically not that big.

Mk1 TT 225 track day car, Officially a ten second car 10.8 seconds at 127 mph.

you probably already told me this but egt sensor is in collector on yours?

www.audi-sport.net

 

[Djordje1]

I am using a DW65 in the tank and an in line 044.Regardless of what sellers say about the in tank pumps I don't think there is one around that will run a 500bhp engine reliably over a period of a few years. They may manage for 6 months or a year but the punmp is physically not that big.

Mk1 TT 225 track day car, Officially a ten second car 10.8 seconds at 127 mph.

you probably already told me this but egt sensor is in collector on yours?

www.audi-sport.net

Thank you @desertstorm I checked your page, that was very helpful for me.


Guys as you suggested I ordered JE 82 9.25:1 and pistons arrived, but I'm a bit confused. On the pistons is written 81m. I'm not sure is this wrong or?
Also, how can I know that the compression ratio is right?

On the JE official website, all the details are the same as on the box even on the photos is written 81M. I'm very confused.

Shop High Quality Volkswagen 1.8T 20V Piston Kit - JE Pistons 242882

Shop High Quality Volkswagen 1.8T 20V Piston Kit online at JE Pistons with 82.00 MM bore and 1.286 IN Compression Height for High Performance Engines Buy SKU 242882 from our store today!

auto.jepistons.com

Cheers,
Djordje

 

[desertstorm]

Don't worry about that it's not related to anything dimensionally with the piston. My pistons also had the same 81M mark on the inside of the crown.
As long as the part number is correct then all is good. The dome volume is what determines the compression ratio.

 

[Djordje1]

Don't worry about that it's not related to anything dimensionally with the piston. My pistons also had the same 81M mark on the inside of the crown.
As long as the part number is correct then all is good. The dome volume is what determines the compression ratio.
View attachment 249461

Thank you so much @desertstorm I literally started writing the post that I did some research and it actually does not refer to any dimensions as you said. Also, "M" is not the unit code for the millimeters.

Thank you once again, I'm grateful that you found time to answer and prove this.

Btw did you use a wrist pin from the kit? People suggest a pin with a thicker wall for the ower 500hp. One that I got in the kit is 4.572mm wall thickness.

Shop High Quality JE Pistons Wrist Pin - 0.787 In. Diameter - 2.250 In. Length - 0.180 In. Wall - 5115 Material

Shop High Quality Engine Piston Wrist Pin online at JE shop Wrist Pin - 0.787 in. Diameter - 2.250 in. Length - 0.180 in. Wall - 5115 Material for High Performance Engines. Buy SKU 787-2250-18-51C from our store today!

auto.jepistons.com

I found this one with the same dimension as one from the kit but with a thicker wall...Is this good enough to go with?

Shop High Quality JE Pistons Wrist Pin - 0.787 In. Diameter - 2.250 In. Length - 0.210 In. Wall - 9310 Material

Shop High Quality Engine Piston Wrist Pin online at JE shop Wrist Pin - 0.787 in. Diameter - 2.250 in. Length - 0.210 in. Wall - 9310 Material for High Performance Engines. Buy SKU 787-2250-21-93C from our store today!

auto.jepistons.com

Thank you again,
Djordje

 

[Djordje1]

Here we are,some parts arrieved

Sent from my Mi A3 using Tapatalk

 

[Djordje1]

Hey guys,
do you recommend a pully upgrade for the lightweight? I can see that there is some "kit of lightweight aluminum pulleys" but they don't look anything special in terms of quality...Do you have any to recommend?

- 1 x Power steering pulley
- 1 x Alternator pulley
- 1 x Crankshaft pulley

 

[<tuffty/>]

Hey guys,
do you recommend a pully upgrade for the lightweight? I can see that there is some "kit of lightweight aluminum pulleys" but they don't look anything special in terms of quality...Do you have any to recommend?
View attachment 249524
- 1 x Power steering pulley
- 1 x Alternator pulley
- 1 x Crankshaft pulley

Nope... they are sh*te... fit them and I'll ban you and delete your threads

<tuffty/>

 

[LordSidious]

First of all i have to note that i dont have any first hand experience with them but have read and talked to people using them.
If anything at all you should look into Fluidampr or ATI damper crank pulleys.As you are changeing rods and pistons from factory to aftermarket the whole piston group weight also changes.(i got IE Tuscan rods for my new engine and they are approx. 30g lighter than stock per conrod,so from 4 conrods thats more than 100g weight difference alone)As i have heard the factory harmonic balancer is tuned for a narrow band of resonance,the frequenzy changes as you change the piston group weight , that can and will change the harmonics which could be "out of band" so to speak with the factory balancer.Fluidampr and ATI pulleys have much broader range of damping.
When i bought my car someone had fitted a single mass clutchmaster flywheel to it and it had an annoying vibration from it (seems it is common with single mass flywheels) but after i took it out and replaced the factory spec dual mass the car sort of lost its readiness to go so to speak.As few users have noted that the fluidampr they installed has removed most of the vibration/noise that comes with single mass flywheels so i will give the single mass one more try as i have also bought the pulley from Fluidampr.
Here is a small clip from youtube :
And here is a bunch of info from Fluidampr : https://fluidampr.com/engine-vibration/

 

[Djordje1]

First of all i have to note that i dont have any first hand experience with them but have read and talked to people using them.
If anything at all you should look into Fluidampr or ATI damper crank pulleys.As you are changeing rods and pistons from factory to aftermarket the whole piston group weight also changes.(i got IE Tuscan rods for my new engine and they are approx. 30g lighter than stock per conrod,so from 4 conrods thats more than 100g weight difference alone)As i have heard the factory harmonic balancer is tuned for a narrow band of resonance,the frequenzy changes as you change the piston group weight , that can and will change the harmonics which could be "out of band" so to speak with the factory balancer.Fluidampr and ATI pulleys have much broader range of damping.
When i bought my car someone had fitted a single mass clutchmaster flywheel to it and it had an annoying vibration from it (seems it is common with single mass flywheels) but after i took it out and replaced the factory spec dual mass the car sort of lost its readiness to go so to speak.As few users have noted that the fluidampr they installed has removed most of the vibration/noise that comes with single mass flywheels so i will give the single mass one more try as i have also bought the pulley from Fluidampr.
Here is a small clip from youtube :
And here is a bunch of info from Fluidampr : https://fluidampr.com/engine-vibration/

Nope... they are sh*te... fit them and I'll ban you and delete your threads

<tuffty/>

Thank you @LordSidious yes of course. Fluidampr is on my list and I'm not going without it.Thank you for this video btw,it's very nice

@<tuffty/> don't worry man no more talk about shi'#%#@ty lightweight pulleys

 

[desertstorm]

Just in case you were unsure about how bad the lightweight alloy crank dampers are.

Light weight crank pulley for a mk3 golf gti 8v gd or bd?

Hi can anyone help on the brain teaser i have come accross, does a light weight crank pulley play any part in the engines performance output, im...

www.clubgti.com

If you want to reduce the rotating mass of ancilliaries fit a smaller alternator. Or change the alternator clutch pulley to a larger item as the stock alternator reaches it's 18K RPM limit around 7400 rpm.

Mk1 TT 225 track day car, Officially a ten second car 10.8 seconds at 127 mph.

Been preparing a few things for the gearbox install when it gets warmer in a few months. The Steering wheel I bought I made an aluminium plate for the front to mount the race mode / push to pass switches and the horn. Covered it in some Black Sticky back plastic rather than paint it. Looks OK...

www.audi-sport.net

Mk1 TT 225 track day car, Officially a ten second car 10.8 seconds at 127 mph.

Shopping on Ebay again. Decided that the Michelin Pilot Supersports were great and really gave the car loads of grip but on a hot day like Sunday and on a faster track they would probably get ripped up quite quickly. So decided to get some proper track day tyres and put the Michelins on another...

www.audi-sport.net