R44 Performance Carbon Parts

[Mike.46]

I think that the spacer and spring combo is really good here. More aggression without being slammed or the wheels sticking out too much so imagine it'll be my setup of choice.

My friend has a few spacers from his 8V S3 he sold so might see if any fit and go from there to save some cash for other mods.

BIG mistake going on there, every Audi/VW WS manual tells you the mating surface (not the round locator) MUST be dry and free from oil and grease and there they are plastering it with anti seize copper SLIP.................clue is in the word

I imagine it's also why the likes of Audi/VW etc look on warranty claims where a third party workshop has been involved

 

[Daggerit]

I have a set of 12mm Bimecc spacers already from my 8V S3. I’m hoping that they should be a direct fit. Is the new 8Y still 5x112?

Yes they're still 5 x 112mm with the same bore as the 8V.

 

[Daggerit]

BIG mistake going on there, every Audi/VW WS manual tells you the mating surface (not the round locator) MUST be dry and free from oil and grease and there they are plastering it with anti seize copper SLIP.................clue is in the word

I imagine it's also why the likes of Audi/VW etc look on warranty claims where a third party workshop has been involved

I can't say I've ever seen that, but it makes sense. Same reason equipment on trucks is always strapped down rather than front to back or side to side, it's because they' rely on the friction to stop things moving. Ideally I wouldn't want the spacers coated in anything either so you have raw metal to metal surfaces to maximise that friction. 100% I'd put some copper slip or grease on the bore though as that's where they stick with minor corrosion, just not the faces.

 

[Mike.46]

I can't say I've ever seen that, but it makes sense. Same reason equipment on trucks is always strapped down rather than front to back or side to side, it's because they' rely on the friction to stop things moving. Ideally I wouldn't want the spacers coated in anything either so you have raw metal to metal surfaces to maximise that friction. 100% I'd put some copper slip or grease on the bore though as that's where they stick with minor corrosion, just not the faces.

As a further example of the surface friction being required the crankshaft to flywheel on a TTRS/RS3 has a diamond coated single use shim between the crank and flywheel, once these or wheels on hubs start to slip/move things get ugly really quickly, best case is you end up with a wheel with slotted bolt holes

 

[Daggerit]

As a further example of the surface friction being required the crankshaft to flywheel on a TTRS/RS3 has a diamond coated single use shim between the crank and flywheel, once these or wheels on hubs start to slip/move things get ugly really quickly, best case is you end up with a wheel with slotted bolt holes

Exactly. As an engineer it makes me wince.