My minor modding thread

[<tuffty/>]

Flexi for the oil drain finally arrived so Alex welded it up...

Happy days... cracked on putting the car back together...

Yes... the PAS pipework isn't where its supposed to but there is a reason for that...

Some idiot had put a gert gearbox in the way and not told it!!!.. I will need to get hold of the right return pipe at some point to replace this... but in the mean time the disc cutter came out to play

Need to clean up the ends a bit and swage then a little then add the loop bit from the piece I cut off to it... that will do until I have a more permeant solution ready...

Was quickly running out of light but managed to put quite a bit of the car back together... I still need to fill the engine with oil and sort the PAS out... then a spanner check before dropping the car to the ground and topping up fluids...

Home stretch but the weather is not looking too good for the next few days... have to see how that goes... I also picked up the spare DSG box this morning... looks ok and could connect to it using my test harness with no faults other than no comms (to be expected)

Looks like its a later TCU version that uses CAN only rather than K-Line for diagnostics like mine... plan is to do a full clean up on it... strip and clean the inside and inspect the clutch pack... the transfer box on this also has the right drive cup to use a ball type inner... a project for next year I think

<tuffty/>

 

[<tuffty/>]

First job of the day...well... the afternoon...

PAS pipework sorted... for now

Next task was to look at the brand new FEBI ball joints as they didn't appear to be tightening up despite loading them up under the weight of the car with the jack... undoing them and having a look in the daylight (was getting dark yesterday when I was doing them up) I soon saw what the issue was...

Seems the taper of the ball joint is protruding past the nut face and all I was doing was tightening the nut to the protrusion and not the upright... I have sent pics and a video to the seller on ebay and ordered up some MEYLE ones this time...

In order to at least test the car I drilled out the nuts a bit to try and clear the protrusion...

This worked 'better' but was not 100%... but they are tight enough that I can drive round the block when the time came... and talking of which...

Eeep!... I had topped off the coolant and filled the engine with oil... I had run the engine up to temp... no faults, and no leaks at this time... wheels went back on and...


Seems I have an issue with the immo... I think its where I moved the column and its disturbed the pickup wiring or similar pretty sure I have had this before so will deal with that issue later...

Checked the fault on the box and just got the expected one..

Just for a module the 8L doesn't have and its not important so all good...

Feels very odd driving an auto after what feels like centuries driving a manual... currently my paddles aren't working so need to see what the issue is there... the module is coded and VCDS sees them operating so can only think I have got the CAN wiring wrong...

Starter inhibit works, reverse light works and as you can see in the vid the speedo works... as does the gear indicator in color MFA... will sort some proper videos out once I have finished doing the snagging and topped up the fluids... still need to do a final top up on the box before I try anything more spirited....

Popped into Bills earlier this morning too... he has managed to read from my spare DSG box which appears to be the same TCU as the one in the car... this is good news and should mean he can read and flash to my installed box too... I want to get it mapped before I turn the boost control back on... I am currently running actuator pressure to give the clutches an easier time..

Happy days

<tuffty/>

 

[<tuffty/>]

Some good news with the ball joints... seller just refunded me for them which covers the MEYLE ones I have ordered... these have arrived now so will fit them at the weekend...

The CAN gateway arrived today as well... fitted that after work...

...basically connected power train CAN to the power train and convenience CAN lines... power train CAN is then connected to the back of the cluster along with the DSG selector and DSG gearbox CAN lines...

I also ran the CAN diagnosis lines to the OBD port so I can connect using VCDS directly... having the gateway installed means I can recode the retro fitted CAN modules directly now where before I had to use my test harness...

Fired up Ignitron and made sure the ECU could see the wheel module... which it could...

...then connected to the gearbox and checked block 003 to see if the box could see the paddle inputs....


...which it could

By this time it was getting dark... again!! so will tidy up the modules tomorrow and test the flappies on the road...

Happy days

<tuffty/>

 

[desertstorm]

Top job as always. Very good of the Ebay seller to refund you wonder how many people driving around with these ball joints fitted not knowing they have an issue. This thread could be linked too a lot for people wanting to know how to install a DSG box on the S3, Or turbo a 3.2 in an S3. I get quite a few people asking me how to get the paddles working on there DSG conversion cars. Easy enough with an Ignitron ECU, but using the gateway is probably a good solution for most people .

 

[<tuffty/>]

Have been driving around a bit getting used to the box... I am feeling less inclined to 'dip the clutch' and snatch the gear lever now... having the paddles makes the transition a lot easier as the muscle memory keeps kicking in using the selector in tiptronic...

I have also now replaced the faulty Febi ball joints with the MEYLE ones and can confirm that the taper was different and the MEYLE ones just fit fine with no dramas...

I managed to grab a ramp at Bill's to do this so I also topped up the DSG box fluid... took another ltr which I expected tbh... and my modded brake bleeder tool did the job perfectly..

I still have this random error pop up...

Not really sure what is generating this... its not the IMMO (the pick up ring on the ignition barrel) as pretty sure that would flash the cluster light... I have a feeling its something to do with the key lock that I don't have fitted (controlled using a wire from the selector to the wheel module and then to solenoid that's fitted to the ignition barrel on 8P and up auto's)... so I might reinstate that wire or perhaps try and recode the wheel module... not sure if I set the gearbox back to manual if it will be happy to still provide an output for the paddles... have to see...

One other thing I picked up to sort out at a later date is this..

Mainly for the sensor fitment on the top do I can hook it into IECU and log gearbox oil temps... its not 'definitive' as there are several sensors measuring temps in the box and I can actually see these in block 019 of the transmission module with the Color MFA but its always nice to log stuff in context

Thought I would at least try a bit of boost and see where the limits were... the box wasn't at all happy .... so dropped back down to gate pressure (0.5bar/7psi) and will run like that until the box is mapped...

Thats not to say that there is not anything to do in IECU as its a bit of a two way street... not only does the box need mapping but the ECU needs a bit of tweaking to be able to work with the TCU in "harmony"...

The clutches are not slipping (or at least not that I have noticed) but torque limits are being hit all the same...

This will limit the throttle plate to control 'load' and obviously means you are not getting full power potential... I have had a tweak about in the IECU map and improved the situation enough for now....

This will do until the box is sorted then I can fine tune things as needed...


<tuffty/>

 

[hydro s3]

Love it mate. That's definitely a good upgrade to do.

 

[Stuart B]

As Bill managed to connect to your dsg, can't you just exchange a couple of cans with Karl and read his map and write it to your box to increase the clamping pressure... or is it a little more complicated than that?

 

[desertstorm]

As Bill managed to connect to your dsg, can't you just exchange a couple of cans with Karl and read his map and write it to your box to increase the clamping pressure... or is it a little more complicated than that?

TVS maps can't be read easily if at all. They are very secretive with what they do, not surprising really. You can flash a new image over them. I have that alloy filter body on mine with a temp sensor and find that the oil temp I get is within 3-4 degrees of the bulk gearbox oil temp that is reported in VCDS. The temp I would like to see and be able to log is the oil temp in the clutch. This is most of the time within a few degrees of the bulk temperature. However on launch when there is no torque reduction or high boost settings you can see quite rapid changes of temperature due to the clutches slipping. The sensor is a very fast acting one and you can see jumps of 10-15 degrees in quite short periods.

 

[desertstorm]

I have found the quickest way of getting torque reduction is with ignition ****** so I have altered the minimum IGN setpoint on my car to -25 degrees. You get more of the DSG fart retarding this much, on a 1.8T anyway.

Throttle plate reduction for torque reduction is slow and by the time the throttle plate has closed sufficiently to limit torque the change has happened and it's time to open again. I think this helps the clutches though . On an OE car like a Golf R they mainly use ignition retardation and injection cut off for rapid torque reduction, the next version of software supports Injection cut off and I have tried this . It does work and I got even quicker changes than I have now but with some issues though for me which are related to the fact that the 1.8T is port injected compared to the direct injection on a TFSI car.

 

[<tuffty/>]

As Bill managed to connect to your dsg, can't you just exchange a couple of cans with Karl and read his map and write it to your box to increase the clamping pressure... or is it a little more complicated than that?

Bill has been able to connect and read out my file now... he has done this on both the boxes I have... I map is incoming shortly....

As for reading Karl's out... while its an 'option' its not one that is particularly feasible.... firstly my TCU is an early Cxx group one... 02E927770 AE.... this TCU supports K-line as well as CAN bus diagnostics but is essentially the 'dumber' of the DQ250 boxes... not a massive issue as a lot of the idiosyncrasies can be mapped out/around... I suspect that Karl's will be an Fxx group TCU so files are non compatible... Cxx file are just over 400kb in. size... Fxx are like 1.5mb in size... such is the joy of advancement

Bill has a map pack for my box so it will make tweaking the map to suite my setup much easier plus I don't really condone what would essentially be 'piracy'... TVS maps are not cheap... justifiably? not so sure but I do know the time and effort that goes into understanding and developing maps so a little leeway can be allowed

Hopefully have a chance to mess with the box over the coming weeks...

TVS maps can't be read easily if at all. They are very secretive with what they do, not surprising really. You can flash a new image over them. I have that alloy filter body on mine with a temp sensor and find that the oil temp I get is within 3-4 degrees of the bulk gearbox oil temp that is reported in VCDS. The temp I would like to see and be able to log is the oil temp in the clutch. This is most of the time within a few degrees of the bulk temperature. However on launch when there is no torque reduction or high boost settings you can see quite rapid changes of temperature due to the clutches slipping. The sensor is a very fast acting one and you can see jumps of 10-15 degrees in quite short periods.

I can view the temps on block 19 on my Color MFA (no labels though) but this temp sensor is more to get a general overview of oil temp that can be logged in context in IECU...

Although that said having more gearbox params available would be nice

<tuffty/>

 

[<tuffty/>]

I have found the quickest way of getting torque reduction is with ignition ****** so I have altered the minimum IGN setpoint on my car to -25 degrees. You get more of the DSG fart retarding this much, on a 1.8T anyway.
View attachment 260157
Throttle plate reduction for torque reduction is slow and by the time the throttle plate has closed sufficiently to limit torque the change has happened and it's time to open again. I think this helps the clutches though . On an OE car like a Golf R they mainly use ignition ****** and injection cut off for rapid torque reduction, the next version of software supports Injection cut off and I have tried this . It does work and I got even quicker changes than I have now but with some issues though for me which are related to the fact that the 1.8T is port injected compared to the direct injection on a TFSI car.

Will see how the box and ecu mapping progresses... ultimately mine is a road car... I am actually pretty happy with the changes in TIP as it stands but once the boost is turned up I suspect some further tweakage will be required...

Ultimately I would like to get TIP to feel as manual as I can get it control wise and for the overall package to be smooth rather than motorsport harsh...

On the road even at gate pressure she gets down the road pretty decently .... Drive feels lazy and smooth which I am ok with and as you know the changes perk up a bit with a bit of load so with rev limits raised, kick down in TIP removed and higher clamping I think it should be perfect...

Getting used to driving an 'auto' now... I find the biggest headache though is "3 point turns"... muscle memory from years of manuals and mostly VAG gearboxes means I am having to really think about the D to R to D stuff lol

<tuffty/>

 

[Stuart B]

Not related but why is re-tar d starred out on a car forum.

MSN comments doesn't even allow Mustard

 

[<tuffty/>]

Not related but why is re-tar d starred out on a car forum.

MSN comments doesn't even allow Mustard

Good question... no idea... above my pay grade

I assume while a legitimate word in context of engine tuning its probably still deemed 'offensive' if used in the wrong context and the swear filter used on the site won't be intelligent enough to understand context...

<tuffty/>

 

[Stuart B]

The swear filter doesn't stop the full word for wa*kers , I read that on a thread earlier...

You would have thought with today's AI phpbb (or whatever) would be able to recognise filtered words commonly follow unrelated words so are hopefully reasonable context..

Anyway thread hijack over... soz...

 

[<tuffty/>]

Anyway thread hijack over... soz...

Its why we love you dude

<tuffty/>

 

[Stuart B]

Gee fanx ...

 

[Sandra]

The swear filter doesn't stop the full word for wa*kers , I read that on a thread earlier...

You would have thought with today's AI phpbb (or whatever) would be able to recognise filtered words commonly follow unrelated words so are hopefully reasonable context..

Anyway thread hijack over... soz...

Swear filter updated now Stuart.

 

[<tuffty/>]

Small update... the temp sensor for the DSG oil filter housing turned up...

Popped out to the car to fit it and noticed the top of the box was wet... turned out to be gearbox oil... this could only have leaked from two places.. the oil filter housing or the oil cooler... the filter housing had a new o-ring and didn't look wet directly where it screwed in mount so my money was on the cooler and the generic o-rings I used...

Decided to replace everything (as you do) so ordered genuine o-rings and a replacement cooler...

This one is the larger version fitted to the early Mk1 TT DSG box....

More rows, more cooling maybe... who knows but I believe @desertstorm fitted one to his so who knows

Was a little awkward to wiggle in but its all in and I just need to do the wiring to the ECU to be able to log the DSG oil temp...

In other news I also took the opportunity to change the gate spring... I was running a 7psi (0.5bar) spring and this was fine but too soft to let me get any boost above 17psi (1.2bar) so using some Gen5 WG45 springs (mines a Gen4 WG45) I attempted to get 10psi (0.7bar) as my baseline... this turned out to be 13psi actual boost which I think is down to the springs being designed for the Gen5 not my Gen4 so I have ordered up a Gen4 10psi spring....

10psi may not seem a lot but I don't intend to go above 20psi (1.4bar) top end and may not actually go that high depending on if I can achieve what I want at less boost...

I will soon find out though as I should be up at Bills this Saturday getting the box mapped... be interesting to see what she can do

<tuffty/>

 

[desertstorm]

Bigger cooler will give you more cooling. They do an even bigger one on Aliexpress but I went with the Nissens item you have, They are quality parts and they make a lot of OE stuff. Be interesting to see what kind of clamping pressure you get when the box is remapped. Logging on VCDS is painfully slow when compared to what Ignitron will do. The new software version of Ignitron supports fuel cut for Torque reduction which is something I asked Balazs if he could do. I tried it on mine and got the fastest gear changes I have seen. On the OE cars I believe they use mainly ignition ****** and for more aggressive torque reduction fuel cut. But they are direct injection cars. On a port injection car a lot of the injection cycle overlaps the port opening so there is a lot of fuel floating around that gets pulled in and ends up in the exhaust to go bang. Thus although the gear changes were quick and probably resulted in the best performance they were associated with lots of popping and banging.
On track especially Bedford that possibly wouldn't be so good. I might get one of the Sundely 1/8 th NPT sensors. Did you get a calibration chart with it?

 

[<tuffty/>]

I might get one of the Sundely 1/8 th NPT sensors. Did you get a calibration chart with it?

I did... had to ask them specifically before I ordered and they sent it once I had received the sensor... however I don't think its something that needs to be "secret" so....

...not sure how accurate it is of course but looks plausible and will check it against what colorMFA says and tweak as required...

<tuffty/>

 

[<tuffty/>]

As the weather was decent this afternoon I popped out to wire up the DSG oil temp sensor

Used pin 26 on the ECU as this is spare for the input and earthed it to the distro panel I fitted previously for all the extra relays I had fitted

Double checked the VCDS label file for the definition of the temperatures in group 019 so I could see what temp I need to compare the reading from the sensor vs what the TCU is reading...

G93 trans fluid temp seems to be the sensible one to compare too to checked that on the color MFA... was miles out!!... checked the measured resistance on the sensor input and at 20deg on G93 it was showing something like 48k ohms!... thats quite a bit different to 2031 ohms as suggested by the 'calibration' chart

So I guess I will have to sit about from a cold start taking measurements at 10deg intervals measured from group 019 on the colorMFA and read out the resistance values the input on pin 26 is seeing... joy

Joys of a cheap sensor....

<tuffty/>

 

[<tuffty/>]

The gearbox is now mapped... I am also in the process of building up an XDF purely for shizzles and giggles so I can see if I can understand what the box is doing etc...

The XDF format is what Tuner Pro uses... this is fine and so far its going well... have added a few maps and everything tallies with OLS so far...

Whether or not I will do much more with it beyond keying in all the maps I don't know... having the map pack is one thing but I still need software to read/write and also checksum the files... will see what I can dig up as it would be nice to have the same level of control over my box map that I have over the engine map...

That said it is a pretty dumb version of the DSG TCU being the Cxx group TCU which is a blessing and a curse potentially... but its working fine so far and doing what I want it to... drives nicely poodling about in Drive and accelerating using TIP is epically addictive...

Anyhoo... now that the box can actually take the power I can turn up the boost...

With the stronger gate spring I can lift the top end boost as I wanted to... this will potentially give me the headroom to keep the torque going a bit longer...

My last dyno plot on the 7psi spring running 17psi top end... I was pretty much out of duty at that point... (85/90%)... peak torque is at 5k and drops off after... the gear changes off redline drop rpm to just over 5k so where the torque is dropping off... so I plan to address that...

Now I have hit 18psi at 55% duty so loads more headroom and have tweaked the mapping to try and lift the torque after 5k...

This of course is a rough estimation by the ECU so figures can be taken with a pinch of salt but generally speaking the shapes of the power/torque curves do follow the dyno plots... and this is looking quite flat now so hopefully it will work out like this on the dyno...

In other news... I have been (painfully) recalibrating the gearbox oil temp sensor...

Done a cold start and warmed the engine from idle logging and tweaking the map as the temp rises... its not perfect yet and hit a wall at around 60 deg as really the car needs to be driven to get more heat in... I may have to try and finish it off on the dyno or just give in and buy a more expensive and well documented sensor instead... (but where is the fun in that!! )

<tuffty/>

 

[Rainbird]

Solid work PT. I won't claim to fully understand the XML stuff but being able to dig right into it to that extent would be very cool. Estimated figures looking strong now, you must be pleased with the progress?

Regarding the box temp sensor - can you not simply test in hot water to get a calibrated set of readings? Or is the issue trying to tie it in to read consistently with something else?

 

[<tuffty/>]

Solid work PT. I won't claim to fully understand the XML stuff but being able to dig right into it to that extent would be very cool. Estimated figures looking strong now, you must be pleased with the progress?

Ta

the XML is fairly straight forward... I may even look at importing the OLS csv data into a database then ETL the relevant stuff out to generate XDF's directly from OLS data...

I think I can tweak a value in IECU that will allow the estimate to be closer to reality... I did this on the 20v map ages ago but forget where it is ... once the car has been on the dyno (will be logging at the same time obvs) then I'll look to align it so I can at least see it for what it is

More than happy with the progress so far... will be a shame when she is "done" as I'll have nothing left to tinker with as such... maybe then will be the time to look at converting the A2 to an EV

Regarding the box temp sensor - can you not simply test in hot water to get a calibrated set of readings? Or is the issue trying to tie it in to read consistently with something else?

Well... yes... I could but its in now and I can't be ar5ed to remove it lol... plus this is in context... the engine needs to run to heat up things and pump oil around... the issue being the the sensor is in the top of the filter housing so the box's oil pump needs to be running (driven off the rotation of the input shaft) to ensure that oil is filling the housing enough to act on the sensor else its just ambient temp as the housing drains down

Temp is temp so hot water would 'work' as long as you could get enough data points and as the temps can exceed 100 deg then water is not really going to cut it and would have to be an oil bath ideally...

There is something called the steinhart-hart equation (https://www.thinksrs.com/downloads/programs/therm calc/ntccalibrator/ntccalculator.html) which with a few data points should map out a response curve... going to grab some of the data I have and see if this looks plausible

Failing that I'll just buy a proper sensor with actual data

<tuffty/>

 

[desertstorm]

The correction factor for the power / torque measurement is here.

Not so important on a manual car, makes more of a difference on a DSG car as this is passed to the gearbox and determines the clutch pressure. Overstate the actual torque and you will find changes become harsh as the clutch pressure increases when it's not required. Think that once the VE map is fully sorted and the fuel trims are close to zero then the calculated power / torque is more accurate. If you have the logs of the runs on the dyno have a look at the ABS wheel speeds, The last time I ran mine there was quite a bit of a difference between front and rear wheel speeds as the car had to be run in FWD only. So this would end up giving a lower reading on the dyno.

 

[<tuffty/>]

Have spent a bit more time tweaking the mapping... again take the reported figures with a pinch of salt but...

Have also started tweaking the gearbox element of the ECU mapping...

Have added some duty to try and keep the boost up between shifts... I will be testing that a bit later but my current focus is to get the STFT's as close to flat as poss then I can get a better idea of the torque curve... I don't really want to run any more boost at this time (famous last words right?) but 1.3bar feels enough and all I really want to achieve is a flat torque 'curve'...

For those still not convinced I'll leave you with this little trip to mexico...


<tuffty/>

 

[desertstorm]

Was that a passenger in the car with you surprised by the performance?. Looking at those logs the boost seems to be holding up pretty good during gear changes. I found that gear changes happened quicker when I increased the amount of ignition ****** . This provides an almost instant reduction in torque compared to closing the throttle and also ends up with more of an anti lag effect on the turbo. I had to alter the global minimum advance figure to get to -25 degrees. Not sure if it will work the same with the 3.2v6. You then don't need to close the throttle as much.
Is the rev limiter set at 7K as you seem to be getting ignition cuts at 7k .

 

[<tuffty/>]

Was that a passenger in the car with you surprised by the performance?. Looking at those logs the boost seems to be holding up pretty good during gear changes. I found that gear changes happened quicker when I increased the amount of ignition ****** . This provides an almost instant reduction in torque compared to closing the throttle and also ends up with more of an anti lag effect on the turbo. I had to alter the global minimum advance figure to get to -25 degrees. Not sure if it will work the same with the 3.2v6. You then don't need to close the throttle as much.
Is the rev limiter set at 7K as you seem to be getting ignition cuts at 7k .

Nope... that was me... lol... I mean I knew the old was quick but the DSG lifts that to another level

I am trying to avoid retarding the ignition if I can help it as obviously that has an adverse effect on EGT's etc... granted a minimal one I expect in the grand scheme of things but ultimately I am not really chasing the last degree of performance out of the setup...

Currently I am still playing about with fuelling as its been a bit of a mission to dial in the injectors properly... part of that is that its taken me this long to notice that my 3bar FPR is more a 3.5bar fpr (for some reason or other) so have been chasing dead times and injector sizing to pull STFT's in... getting there though....

Hoping the next map will bring things a bit closer and it seems that its heading in the right direction finally...

I need to play with the engine torque correction map a bit at some point to as dialling in the VE effects the torque requests a tad and the changes feel a little harsh on low load... WOT is fine ( as the video should show) but drive has lost a bit of its smoothness now the box has been mapped and the boost turned up

Redline is set at 7.1k for ignition cut... I might raise this to 7.2k but in all honesty I am happy to keep it where it is as there is no real benefit and will only add to potential for unreliability... I just need to learn to change gear a bit quicker lol

<tuffty/>

 

[hydro s3]

How so you do the highlights in grey in ur logs?

 

[desertstorm]

How so you do the highlights in grey in ur logs?

Control key and left mouse then just drag to the right .

 

[desertstorm]

Nope... that was me... lol... I mean I knew the old was quick but the DSG lifts that to another level
I am trying to avoid retarding the ignition if I can help it as obviously that has an adverse effect on EGT's etc... granted a minimal one I expect in the grand scheme of things but ultimately I am not really chasing the last degree of performance out of the setup...
Redline is set at 7.1k for ignition cut... I might raise this to 7.2k but in all honesty I am happy to keep it where it is as there is no real benefit and will only add to potential for unreliability... I just need to learn to change gear a bit quicker lol

<tuffty/>

The almost instant seemless nature of the gearchanges seems to impress a lot of people. Still brings a smile to my face .
I found that the effect on EGT's was pretty small as the duration that it's active is so short. Your EGT's are nothing to be worried about anyway. If the gearbox senses that there is little or no torque reduction it delays the gearchange and it will take longer to shift. You also get more of the DSG fart noise with more retarded timing.
I have gearchange points setup in Ignitron below my RPM limit so it will change automatically around 7600. My rev limiter is at 7800.
If I decide to change earlier then obviously it will change, If I just keep my foot planted it will change up before finding the red line.
I have the change points set slightly lower in 1st gear as it revs so quickly it may find the rev limiter before changing up. I experienced harder shifts when I had the gearbox mapped as the clutch pressure is higher. As you know you can declare lower torque values to the transmission by tweaking the maps this will soften the changes, but don't go too mad as otherwise you may find it starting too slip. I found this when Balazs introduced the mechanical losses map on a beta version . The gearbox takes the declared losses figure from the engine declared torque to arrive at a figure that determines the clutch pressure.
The default mechanical loss map is now populated with all zeros. Try logging clutch temps on VCDS, It is pretty slow logging speed but the actual clutch temps can change quite quickly unlike the bulk oil temperature which changes pretty slowly.

 

[<tuffty/>]

How so you do the highlights in grey in ur logs?

Control key and left mouse then just drag to the right .

you can also use just the shift key if you want to do individual measures

<tuffty/>

 

[<tuffty/>]

Well... thats next years project sorted then

<tuffty/>

 

[<tuffty/>]

Hi folks... been a while since I was on ASN at all let alone posting an update but... here I am and here is an update

The world that is DSG tuning is an "interesting" one to say the least... the S3 wasn't driven much if at all over winter and with the rubbish weather its not been high on the to do list at all...

That said I have now got the gearbox tune to a point its changing pretty quickly and producing around 15bar of clutch pressure... I have also turned the boost back up and been popping over to Mexico every now and then to tweak it... its still a bit of work in progress but currently its pretty close to where I want it but need to get the car on the dyno and get a more controlled view of the state of the tune and tweak from there...

My boost profile and iMax setup is a little unorthodox as I am trying to produce a strong but flat torque line...

Its mostly there but still needs a tweak and I think that would be best done once I have a dyno reading to validate what the torque actually measures out at

I have a mysterious clunk coming from the front offside suspension somewhere which needs investigating, the exhaust is out of alignment a little and when hot knocks on the rear tow eye bracket, there is a vibration at motorway speeds which I think is a weight that was knocked off the wheel while putting the car back together and I need to replace the the brake lines going to the rear as they are starting to corrode quite badly...

I may wait for that so I can remove the whole rear subframe assembly and refurbish that... I also plan to look at retro fitting an 8P rear diff using a modded subframe to give 8L quattro owners an option for failed gen 1 haldex controllers...

I still need to identify the stepper motor in the controller as I believe this to be the failure point but as yet not been able to test...

I have now also got myself a 3D Printer as I have a few ideas for "things"... that is once I have finished my current project...

The car feels strong through the gears... I have sold my manual box now which will go towards a new clutch pack and I am looking into swapping out the Cxx mechatronic unit for an Fxx one as this (apparently) has a more refined version of TCU/software that aids drivability (again, apparently!)

The box I have works though and for the most part is fine but there are times (when cold for example) its dumb as mud... this could be the software itself of course but it does work so if an Fxx comes up at the right price I'll build that into the spare box with the clutch pack and swap it out eventually

<tuffty/>

 

[s3mad_dude]

Nice updates PT - thanks for sharing. I sourced a working Haldex controller but I fear this replacement one will go at some point. It’s just a matter of time. I’ve never thought about the 8P Haldex setup but that makes perfect sense because those controllers are at least repairable. Will the 8P Haldex controller get all the required information it needs from the antiquated 8L? Looking forward to see how you get on with it though.

 

[<tuffty/>]

Will the 8P Haldex controller get all the required information it needs from the antiquated 8L? Looking forward to see how you get on with it though.

They fitted ME7 ecu's (like our 8L's) to the 3.2VR A3 8P quattro's so I believe Gen2 and Gen3 haldex are fully supported.... physically fitting the rear diff should be a case of fabricobbling brackets and the like... electrically and mechanically it will just work... the biggest challenge will be the drive shafts..

8L and 8P side by side comparison...

...for whatever reason the 8L diff bias is heavily over to the offside from centre line but the 8P is more centred but biased to the near side if anything

This makes shaft selection interesting... need to work out what can be used... pretty sure the rear track is wider on 8P's so the 8P shafts probably won't be a straight fit....

<tuffty/>

 

[Dohcwp]

Welcome back ! no updates from @Tuffty is concerning

 

[TrueSoft]

Great Read.
Thanks for update.

 

[S3AMJ]

I still have this random error pop up...

Not really sure what is generating this...

Hey PT, long time no speak dude. Hope all is well. I’ve got this same fault randomly coming on and going off with my car now since having the gearbox mapped. Did you happen to get to the bottom of it in the end?
Also randomly my YAW sensor is playing up intermittently since then squibs been changed, which in turn flags up the ESP light on the dash….. might all be related.

 

[<tuffty/>]

Hey PT, long time no speak dude. Hope all is well. I’ve got this same fault randomly coming on and going off with my car now since having the gearbox mapped. Did you happen to get to the bottom of it in the end?
Also randomly my YAW sensor is playing up intermittently since then squibs been changed, which in turn flags up the ESP light on the dash….. might all be related.

Hi mate... no... not worked it out as yet... changing the CAN protocol for the clocks gets rid of it but unsure of the knock on... Brian suggested it so maybe worth pinging him

<tuffty/>